Thanks for this video. I have one of the Australian tangential tools (Diamond tools) which I often use on both my Myford ML7 and my Taig lathe (Peatol here in UK). I use it with square and round HSS and it works very well, the round HSS especially gives a nice finish. The biggest advantage is the ease of sharpening HSS, and lack of wastage on re-sharpening. Also the ease of getting the tool ‘on centre’ without using shims etc. They don’t like interrupted cuts, which tend to hammer the tool bit down in the holder. Les in UK

Very nice! I love the the step by step “lets go with an ABSOLUTELY basic approach and slowly increase” way this video was done!

Great video! I bought the Eccentric Engineering diamond tool holder & the inverted parting tool for my Optimun TU2004V lathe. Due to the excessive overhang, I found that the tool would catch easily, so I ditched the QT tool post & went back to the standard tool post & the results are now exceptional.

I simply adore my tangential “diamond tool” from Eccentric Engineering in Australia. Well worth the money invested. The finish I get on steel or aluminium is insane. 👌The ease of maintaining a sharp edge is also a Godsend. 👏👏👍😀

I really enjoy your take on things. Makes me feel like I’m learning with you. Thanks for bringing us along. 👌🏼

Check out 'Eccentric Engineering'. Both square & round tangential tools work amazingly well with brass, cast iron, aluminium, plastics & composites. Would have loved to see the finishing comparison on a longer piece of material with tailstock support. If you twist-mount the HSS blank, it works as a shear tool too. The surface finish is dramatically improved over 99% of inserts that a DIY enthusiast can afford. The lathe headstock does need to be as rigid as possible though, Worn out bearings will leave a chattery finish with any cutting tool, hss or carbide or CBN.

Life time as a machinist, I learned something new, thank you, 🇬🇧👍.

Great video, highly informative and useful.

Nice way to explain the proof of concept and the final product without resorting to a whole lot of math or "to understand this we need to do some math" I must say my diamond tool holder is my go to toll for cutting. I use it for most of my lathing and it has never let me down. Keep up the good work! Edit: Nearly 20K subscribers. Well done!

Great info, 👍

Very great video /info on tangencial tools. This tool geometry made it's way into the standard HSS tool world of lathe tool bits [diamond grind shape] ironical from the use of this grind on HSS tools used in the balance and roller box tooling from screw machines back in the 1930's thru 70's IMHO.

Nice seeing the tool evolve as you worked through to the finished product. I have seen another maker using drill rod for the cutter, makes creating the holder alot easier. As always, thanks for sharing Cheers

Thank you, very interesting

YES, i love that video

Very interesting video, thanks for documenting your experiments. If nothing else you will have one more option in your tool kit.

Watching the grinders tool rest flex might make for a good future project upgrade!

Complete genius. Now make one for old drills to make radiuses

This principle has been used in form tools. It is easily sharpened as you pointed out, and the form isn't lost in the process. Another style is a partial circle with an adjustable means to keep it from rotating under load. I've considered making threading tools with the profile following the length of the blank. Probably would use a set/grub screw to adjustably counteract the axial load. Wanna' do and do are two separate things.

I'm a bit fascinated by these. I think I'll try and make one too. Have tried a cutter with a small radius honed on the leading edge? I wonder if that would improve surface finish. Happy Holidays!

Thanks for sharing

Been using my diamond tool holder for over 20 years now. Still have the same 6 pieces of tool bit i bought originally

I wonder if you could soft solder the tool bit in place, since the heat wouldn't be enough to ruin the temper

fantastic

I might have a go at this. A mate was raving about that diamond tooling mob, but the price of their holders is ridiculous, over $80 for a tool holder from memory, and other tool holders for hss steel seemed to be made for lathes that take 16mm or bigger tooling.

I use a diamond tangential tool mostly when using HSS on both my main lathe and my Russian mini lathe.

Thank you for your information regarding the lack of space with the mini-lathe. So you have done well to fit what looks like a 1/4", 6mm sq cutter. Regards, Mervyn Price. My lathe is an ML7

To improve this you could make the dovetail of the qcth built in to the cutter

I'm new here. But I have a comment question. While cutting some flat stock in my vice in my basement, with my hacksaw I ended up pushing too hard (1/8th x 2" ) I split my index finger nail in half at the base of thr nail threw my finger on the last stroke. It was amazingly bad. That was November ish 2019. For that christmass my wife allowed me to buy a used milwaukee porta band saw. I had one previously but sold it to a friend the year before because he was in need and at the time I was not using it nearly enough to justify it. I made it wall mount by a 2x4 steel tube that I cut the face and sides to accept the tools forward handle and welded it to a plate at the right angle to hang the saw. I made a 4 inch wide by 7 inch long cutting table that bolts around the foot of the saw and while semi stable, it is actually really good. I will make a video of this conversion from a handheld portaband saw to wall mount if you ask for one. But here is thr question. Have you considered swapping the hacksaw out for a different tool like a portaband? Or handheld bandsaw?

Interesting

I don't have a lathe but I watch all your videos. This may be a dumb question but what is stopping you from cutting tangentially from a horizontal angle? A tangential cut is relative so I'm thinking you could have a horizontal tool and start your cut at the top of the piece. Stick out would be more but forces would be in-line with the tool and tool post. Maybe I just answered my own question. If forces are pushing back at the tool post, it might kick out the whole tool post? Thoughts

Going try it with just plastic

I like the evolution of your tool design here. Most people don't show their failed attempts. 👍 There is a few plans for these floating around the net including an interesting one that uses round HSS. Apparently a very small radius of the point improves cutting even further. There is also a commercially available tool made in AUS which I would like to get my hands on. 😎😎

Nicely Done! Have you considering heat treating your tool holder?

There are a lot of these cutters about. Your video was interesting. It showed the principals involve., Looking at how these things are normally made, would have produced a better design. Clamping a square HSS tool is simply an evolution of clamping a round HSS tool.

See if you can find a supplier of Solid Carbide blanks, then make a holder for those. I might give it a try, since i make most of my lathe tools from Solid Carbide, broken or blunt Endmills, In the past i have used square pieces of Solid Carbide which did the job excellently, though i had to grind them on 3 faces.. I use a Diamond wheel to sharpen them, and.. i admit.. boring bars are made on a wire EDM machine..

A handy design for using small bits of HSS and easy to set on centre height. However unless you grind a small nose radius onto the cutting tip it will wear out almost immediately. If you did that, it wouldn't technically be ground just on the top face.

Interesting tooling...never seen a tool that looks like that...but I guess it seems to cut pretty darn nice

Well done on your experiments, so few bother these days and just settle for insert tooling. You will find that 12 degrees forward and sideways work well with a 30 degree grind across the top. You will also fine a small radius, a few thou or so, on the cutting corner running the entire length gives a more durable tool. It beats me why these tools seem to have gone out of favour in Edwardian times, except for in things like roller box tools, but these days for home shops they are a brilliant money saver and go to show that all those angles listed in the usual literature for different materials is a touch of baloney.

One problem I see is that the tool will want to slip downward and nothing is there to stop it. I like the idea of just holding it at a compound angle and grinding one face, but the extra bulk at the front does add some additional limitations.

Видео очень хорошее. Автор на личном примере убедился, что такое "передний угол" "задний угол" и другие вспомогательные углы заточки резца. Весьма полезно. Изобретён велосипед;)) Ничего страшного

I noticed the part of stock was wobbling or uneven, is that the stock or the placement in the chuck, just wonder if it's the machine or the stock, not knowing how good these Mimi lathes are compared to high grade full size lathes , thanks for the vids

What advantage does this 'tangential' tool bring? As I see it, effectively the rake, clearance and cutting wedge are about the same as conventional tools, but in a vertical toolbit orientation.

Got one of these 15 years ago. I would have saved a fortune if I knew about it before buying carbide tools which chip on my cheap 7x14.

Just watch Eccentric Engineering videos…👍 Diamond Tool Holder

You should really hone about a .008" radius on the corner of the cut edge. Leaving it sharp is a no-no. It will prevent chipping and give you a more consistent surface finish.

I have just picked up a old Hercus lathe 1957 era due to being on a disability pension i dont have alot of money. Can i buy one of these holders . I cannot afford the carbide tool and bits so i was going to learn to sharpen Hss. But with this it looks like it would be even easier. Type c lathe . I can use up to 20 mm holder. Let me know if you would consider selling one also i live in perth Australia 6174 . Cheers Andy Andy

I find the need to have tool holders that must be held in other tool holders a pain as you can only have one type of tool, whereas you also need to do threading, parting, boring and grooving etc.........the normal QCTP holders provide enough tool holding functions for normal square tool bits without special tool holders that need special tool bit grinding......true you can use up short bits of HSS but I use them for boring bar inserts anyway.

It's like a circular thread cutter but not circular! I like it!

Cool project! ... your corner radius might be a bit too small though.

The developer of this type of tooling came from Melbourne Australia. I was teaching teaching when they came on the market students could obtain good cutting on the old her us lathes.

⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

That cystem is very good to use in round HSS Blanks or broken drill bits and broken taps to make round grooves or to make interropted cuts

I thought you made a die filer??? 😁👍👍

That is not what I was taught as Tangential Cutting. You have created a conventional tool face simply on the end of the blank, which is Tangential Tooling, as stated. The faces and reliefs are presented no differently to the work than a conventionally held tool. Hence the cutting is essentially the same and tool maintenance is simplified, Tangential Cutting is where the cutting edge is a line where two faces meet which is tangent ( in the X-Y plane) to the center of the work. This would normally be the edge where the side and end relief faces meet. This edge is held at a slight angle to the work in the Y-Z plane, tipping toward the tail stock. The normal cutting edge (with which you are cutting) is well above the center of the work and never comes in contact. The actual cutting is effected as the work rotates it moves down into the slightly angled (back) edge of the tool in a shearing motion. If you’ve ever seen a cut-style knurler, or a rotary broach, the principle of using angular change in motion to apply tool pressure is the same. However, your take on this topic is in compliance with the conventional presentation for tooling. It is important that the distinction between Tangential tooling and cutting are made. I guess you need really old textbooks, or old mentors (as in my case) to get the original ideas before they get lost in translation over time. I believe you'll find Tangential Cutting far more interesting and useful. Nicely done, keep up the good work.

I kind of like how you're always using a hacksaw. It's like when a woodworker has all the machines to do something, but they use hand tools instead for the craftsmanship. One tends to sweat when using a hacksaw so you can say you put your sweat into it. Now where to get the blood and tears?

So in the end you end up with something that looks like "insert tooling"!? You never know until you try!

Looking at the top face of your diamond tool, I was thinking, "geez! this looks just like a carbide insert."

Vice in a vice

Hi Artisan Makes, you have an accent that i cant pick, where are you from mate.

I've never used tools like this personally but one aspect I could see being a problem is how the cutting forces appear to want to push the tool back along the slot of the toolholder, meaning the screw it taking most of that force to hold the tool in place. traditional tool holders are set up so the force is perpendicular to the slot.

Good effort...but eccentric have done all that and more. They’re dear but at least we’re supporting our countrymen. Happy 2022 Virus free

I fail to see the logic. What’s the point of creating another joint when you can grind tools in hss or carbide on a diamond wheel that are far more rigid. What you’re calling a good surface finish look very rough to me.

I watched but i still dont think I get it. A lot of tool holder building to use a HHS bit in a odd way. Someone school me.

So do they make a tangential insert? LOL

But...why? Insert tools are so cheap, why even bother with HSS?

Just use insert tooling

Waste of time, insert tools whip the arse of hss. I keep hss for odd shapes and when you need to grind your own special. Hss is too slow an over heats on big cuts.

Hi after watching this video I looked into the tooling and fond this kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oq6jY9uHt93Zqnk.html

Not much to recommend it. That tail is always in the way and the grinding is only a minor benefit.

you dont cut stock by hand in 21 century!

Can't see the point.

Wouldn't it make more sense to use a tool laying down horizontally with a back slope and just grind the same diamond but on the bottom? Lmfao. You have overcomplicated this to the max. Like imagine if you could just tip a standard toolholder back 15-35 degrees, drop it down to center it, and single diamond to create relief angles.

your voice only come in left side it's annoying

I appreciate people teaching other, this is not the way to do it. If you have never used this type of cutter, don't go and try to explain what you don't know. At least be a little proficient in it. Just my opinion.