CSchwad, great to hear and I could not agree more. Very well made and so much fun to run. Enjoy!

Cramer’s Classics - Congrats on your new PM lathe. You are going to love it!

Glad you enjoyed it. I am hoping this one lasts me a while. Just finished some hybrid hubs, 97 Silverado/2010 Camaro. Will get that video up as soon as the reamer for the lug studs comes in. Biggest project so far on this lathe, made about 40lbs of chips.

Ha, thanks. Tried to beat the copyright police so just plugged in a few originals to fill the silence.

Thanks! Appreciate you taking the time to watch.

I hope you have had a chance to subscribe - I have been working on keeping the content flowing.

Thanks Jeff, have been getting a lot of use out of it and love it.

Gurudan Singh - Thanks, has been a great machine so far! Love it.

No worries, I am sure they have more. You will love it!

Paul Bommarito - Congratulations on the new to you lathe. Glad the video helped, sounds like you have also watched the other video specifically around the VFD set up, hopefully that one will give you what you need. Keep in mind with a used lathe, the high voltage contactors may be used enough that they won't pass low voltage very well and you may need to replace them. Even if you have fewer controls, the basic concept is the same. Wire the VFD directly to the motor. Remove the existing high voltage wires from the lathe control panel that used to go through the contractors to the motor, and use those high voltage contactors to now send the 12 volt signal to the VFD for what you want it to do. High level is you are just making low voltage switches to tell the VFD what to do - for the most part telling the VFD to start forward, start reverse, or stop. You are sending those same controls from different places (fwd rev lever, e-stop) but if you get the high level, then you can drill it down to your specific set up. All the best getting it running!

Glad you found the channel. I am doing some custom work like the hubs and trying to find more work like that. I am also a knife maker and working on a new patent for a folding knife lock mechanism. Once that is ready I plan to release some videos of making those knives. Right now had some questions about my VFD set up so thinking about a video explaining the principle of how the VFD works and what changes were made. I am not an electrician so not a step by step how to, more the laymen’s terms of the VFD set up. Open to ideas if you want to see something. I just purchased a dividing head so likely a project with that soon.

Stephen Brazell - Appreciate the comment. Glad the videos and helping you out and appreciate the compliment on the music. All the best setting your shop up, fun times ahead for sure.

Tom B - Yes I used them. They seem to be fine. I think the bolt on the pad is better than the bolt right on your concrete. Spread that weight over a couple more square inches. Congrats on the new lathe. Exciting day for sure!

@@BladesIIB OK, cool...thanks! Yeah, this was a bit of a nerve-wracking experience with the forklift, to be sure...lol. I've driven a forklift a lot in my life, so that wasn't an issue. In fact I even have a set of 1200-pound forks for my Kubota tractor, but this lathe weighs 1200+ pounds more than the whole tractor does! So there's no way to even budge the TL lathe with this machine--so I had to rent a forklift when the lathe was delivered a couple of weeks ago. It worked out so well that I decided to just rent it again this weekend, to make the final move of all that stuff in my new shop. So I had to move the lathe several times with the forklift, and as I mentioned in another comment in the discussion here--the forks are barely long enough to extend under the whole lathe, so it was a bit hairy...given what these things cost. But you just have to go slowly and deliberately, and keep the load as low to the ground as possible at all times, and it will be fine. And it was. Thanks for your input on the leveling pads though.

joe smith - Thanks for the comment and the feedback. Glad the videos are helpful. Only reason I did not get the 1640 was availability. I already canceled an order on another lathe from another company to get this one and needed to get what was in stock. I agree the 1640 is a great option with essentially the same size footprint.

Johannes Laxell - Thanks for the question. This machine does not come equipped with those.

@ianmoone2359 - Thanks for the questions. All the current pricing for this machine will be on the PM website. I have not kept up on the price. I have a mother video that runs down all my tooling headstock to tailstock that might help as well as you are putting your build together (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fNiSm8tjmcnOcqs.html). This machine is from Taiwan and yes should be tool room quality for sure, I think they even pitch these as semi commercial production machines if I recall? Should be some details about that on the PM site as well. For me, purchasing new was my best option. I looked at a few used machines and was not happy with what I found and did not want to be fixing, just using. Good luck with your search, I hope you find the best machine for your needs. The Hobby-Machinist forum is another great resource for options and opinions. Personally, I am super happy with this machine from PM.

Matt at PM is a big help with the VFD along with a lot of support on Hobby Machinist (and likely Practical Machinist). I knew nothing about VFD 4 months ago either. Spend a couple weeks reading and getting your head around it. The hardest part is sourcing all the parts to assemble the enclosure and set it up. The rest takes some time but not much harder than installing a car stereo. Yes the VFD goes direct to the motor. That means you need to strip all the high voltage wires out of the lathe that used to run the motor and replace with control wires to tell the VFD when to turn the motor on and off. Take a look on Hobby Machinist and feel free to send me a PM there, I can send my contact info and we can connect if that would help. I would recommend 3 phase if you can do it. The variable speed is great and the 3 phase is ideal for all the start and stop of a lathe.

Maybe another thought is to ponder is how fine a finish you would need. Single won't produce as good a finish as the 3phase would. It will be close, but if you're doing ultra fine work, 3ph is the way to go. I happen to have a buddy that is a commercial electrician and will "assist" me with my lathes. I have a Monarch 10EE at the moment, but need a larger swing and am considering this TL as well. I have a rotary phase converter with a VFD, so would not need a converter. I do love the set up and like the tach included as well. Very sanitary job!

@@moe9098 thanks, appreciate the feedback. The tach is from Amazon.com and was under $20. Definitely worth it. Thanks for sharing considerations for single or 3 phase machines. If you are looking for an upgrade I would recommend this TL. I have more time on it now and it is running great for me.

@@BladesIIB Great video..I just went with a tl1640 and going to go the vfd route as you did. Do you know the part number on your vfd? Any help with the wiring would be greatly appreciated!

@@josephking233 Glad you liked it. Please look me up on The Hobby Machinist - BladesIIB there as well, and send me a PM and I will share what I have on the wiring. As for the VFD it is a Hitachi WJ200-075LF. I purchased the VFD from PM with the lathe. They matched it. All the best, you will love the lathe. Stay tuned for my next video just finishing some hybrid 97 Silverado/2010 Camaro hubs. My largest project on the lathe yet and it is performing excellent.

Tom, appreciate the feedback, glad you like the videos. The fact that the TL was in stock was a big part of my choice over the GT. I also really liked the extra weight of this machine and not having to change gears for metric threading a real benefit in my opinion. I have never owned a lathe with the clutch feature and although this one has it, I have to admit I have been hesitant to use it for fear of shearing a pin or something. Should just get brave and give it a go. One other big difference between the GT and the TL is the width of the headstock. This is what allows for not changing gears for threading but a lot of GT owners, especially if gunsmithing seem to really like the narrower headstock and spindle to get a barrel into the spider on the back end. All the best with your purchase. PM is a great company to deal with so I don’t think you can go wrong either way.

@@BladesIIB Revisiting this video today, as I just sent off the check for a 1440TL lathe today! It was a lot, but like you said--the in-stock status, along with other features like the feed rod clutch stop, made the decision easier. That and the fact that I don't want to buy a lathe only to decide later that I should have bought the bigger lathe. I think the 1440TL is a great compromise in that sense, because it has all the features of the 16" model, but it isn't quite as big. So I think it will work well for my use-case. I don't plan to do any sort of gunsmithing at all, as it just doesn't interest me. But the fact that I will never have to change a set of gears while threading? Now THAT interests me, lol...

@@bluehornet6752 Congratulations! With a year of pretty consistent use on mine I am still very happy with it and don’t regret the decision for a minute. All the best with your set up and install. Exciting days ahead.

@@BladesIIB My 1440TL arrived a couple of days ago. Like you, I had to rent a forklift to unload the thing from the truck--but unlike your delivery, my lathe was about 3-4 feet inside the truck...sitting over an axle. And of course the guy brought a 2800-pound pallet jack to unload a 3300-pound pallet, so that was a no-go. We ended up hooking straps to the pallet down low, and slowly dragging it towards the back door of the truck. Once we got it within an inch or so of the edge I was able to get the forks all the way under the pallet, and they protruded just out the far side. Then I was able to gingerly lift the thing off the bed of the truck, and VERY slowly back up. I lowered it down then as quickly as possible, and I was off to the races. A couple of tips for anyone buying a TL-series lathe from Precision Matthews: 1) Make SURE that you have longer forks, because the width of the lathe makes it tricky as the "stock" forks on these forklifts are barely able to reach all the way across under the pallet; and 2) make sure to remind the delivery company that these things weigh 3300-3500 pounds when shipped (my 1440TL was 3315), so bring a pallet jack that is capable of lifting that much weight. You'd think that would be common sense, but then again...you'd probably be wrong.

@@bluehornet6752 Congrats on the new TL and thanks for adding the delivery tips. Glad you had some straps and were able to sort your delivery out. Most of us are not professional riggers so it is a little daunting to move that size of equipment around, and it should be. Take your time, be safe and go slow. All the best with your clean up and set up. I hope you are making chips soon.

The manual shows to leave 21.3” from the splash guard to the wall. I only ended up leaving 16” from the splash guard to the wall, just enough to swing the door for the electric all the way open. That made it 23” from the wall to the actual stand for the lathe. Hope that helps.

@@BladesIIB So far has that space been enough? I just ordered a PM1236.

@@PCModelBuilder yes, I have had no issues with the space behind. I can get back there to clean up. Full access to the electrical, belt adjustments and anything else. I even have enough room to store my little band saw back there to maximize the space in my small shop. Congrats on your purchase, you will love it.

@@BladesIIB Thank you so much for the reply. Which model did you order?

I too have a small shop and I'm doing what I can to maximize space!!

Dev Everything - Thanks for the question. No regrets at all with this model and if I had to do it again, I would not hesitate to get this machine. I was going to buy the GT model and it was not in stock, I am glad it was not. The extra features and extra weight with this machine I love. Good luck getting the machine that is right for you.

robotech - I am not familiar with the 1340 so I am not able to answer that. It does have a splash oiler system for the headstock and not a pump if that helps. You would need to send an email to Precision Matthews tech support for more info, sorry I don’t have an answer for you.

@biker176 - Thanks for the question. Yes this is one of the recommended lifting/moving points. If you check out page 8 of the manual on their website it will give the details. Lathes are too heavy so you do have to be very careful over any bumps etc. I did not have to move it far just get the pallet out and a couple feet ahead. All the best getting yours moved in and congrats on a new machine whatever one you choose. If you get the TL I think you will be happy, love mine.

Really set on the the TL especially now ...your response has certainly helped! Been watching all the new vids too ..keep them chips flyin 👍🏼👍🏼

@@biker176 That sound awesome. Appreciate you checking out the channel.

Thanks for checking out the video. Really happy with the size of this one, still home shop hobby size but yes it is heavier than most about 3500lbs with a full solid base. I am not sure where Springville is located. Hope your son has a safe move.

This one was to heavy for lift gate. If you get a delivery that has lift gate, in my experience they will usually take it to your garage with their fork truck. I guess depends on your driveway but they have done that for me at no extra charge with other items.

Lift gates usually only handle a ton. I believe this lathe is around 3,400lbs. Correct me if I am off on this. Too heavy for a lift gate for sure.

You are spot on with the weight of this machine and I believe correct with what a lift gate can handle.

tedpeek76 - The VFD is definitely not a plug in and go option. If you just want to connect wires quickly then you may want to look at a Rotary Phase Converter. For the VFD I rewired all the front control panel and pulled out a lot of high voltage wire from the lathe. I have another video with all the details of the VFD set up. A VFD is not a phase converter. It is designed to go directly to the motor and then you rewire the controls to tell the VFD when to start, stop etc. The other video will help it all make sense. Thanks for the question and congrats on your new lathe.

I understand the vfd. I have a 220 to 3ph on my bridgeport mill. I installed and set it up myself. But I run the mill from the vfd itself. Not a control panel. I was hoping it was already set up and wired in. 10k for a lathe and I've got to play electrician?...... Ugh

The lathe I've ordered already has the vfd put in from factory. It's not aftermarket. That's why I was hoping it was already wired in.

@@tedpeek76 gotcha. Apologies if I did not understand your original question. The VFD was a separate purchase and a definite start from scratch install. Build the full enclosure, set it up, all the wires etc. An industrial grade lathe so designed to go in a shop that would have 3 phase access. For us who don’t have that, electrician time it is.

@@tedpeek76 if it comes already wired in then I would expect it is wired? Hopefully they have a good wiring diagram and you can see where the power input for the lathe is going in and how they have it set up? Sorry I am not more help with answering that for you.

Tyler Fu - Sounds like a good rigging company. Can’t get that kind of delivery for $150 here. I have a 5 foot lever bar that can lift the lathe and scoot it a bit in the floor. They also make the “skate” type rollers to move it around or just some 3/4 pipe rollers.

@@BladesIIB So how much did the fork lift rental cost you? I just call them up and they show up, with a driver (and an assistant if necessary), cost is about 30 dollars per hour if no assistant is needed (that means only driver). But in Taiwan those fixture for lifting lathes seems very standard equipment, all rigging companies have it. It's basically something that looks like a plier of some kind, except it opens when you pull on them. You slip it between the ways and lift, and the action causes the fixture to open up making a very solid hoist. I have my concerns but they do this for a living, so they must know their stuff. I managed to tilt my lathe by borrowing a 1.25" solid bar of steel from a neighbor, did that so I can put the leveling puck under the lathe. Problem with lathe leveling is that sometimes the adjustment you need to un-twist the lathe is not the one at the end of the lathe you are adjusting, I actually had to drill an anchor into the floor and pull the other end of the lathe down, in order to un-twist the lathe ways. I was cutting taper otherwise... I bought a Chinesium machinist level for the work... can't afford Starret. You do have to remember labor costs are lower in Taiwan... I paid about 1500 dollars for the victor lathe. I think if for whatever reason I can move back to the states (very complicated story), I'm getting a container and taking the lathe and mill with me. 1500 dollars won't even buy me a Precision Matthew 1228 LB. I used to have one when I lived in Austin.

@@taiwanluthiers Yes that is some good prices on labor. Just renting the forklift and doing all the rigging cost $350 and that was a deal, usually about $500. To have a rigging company come and set it in place would have been $1300-$1500. I would definitely bring yours if you come back, that is a great price.

@@BladesIIB How much would a Victor lathe run you if you buy it in the states? I don't know the cost to container ship stuff, but I heard it's in the neighborhood of around 10-20,000 or so. Makes more sense to do it for an entire shop than just one machine for sure.

@@taiwanluthiers Just did a quick search and Used Victors came up around $5000, new larger size around $21,000 so all depends on the model. Lot of variability in pricing.

Pete - it was even better than that, even better!! 😂😂

@@BladesIIB LOL that would be my guess! I can't wait! I know very little about using a metal lathe. What I learned OTJ most likely can't be counted on as legitimate. Any suggestions on how to get up to speed??

@@PCModelBuilder that is a great question. I was fortunate enough to learn the basics in high school and then work in the industry for several years. That was many years ago but like riding a bike most of it came back fast. Maybe I need to make some getting started machining videos? Until then I have seen some shop teacher videos on KZfaq and The Hobby Machinist forum is a great resource. Best advice is find some cheap steel and just do some simple turning. Don’t worry about finish, start thinking about size but don’t get wrapped up in precision and just learn the controls. Build good habits, never leave the Chuck key in the Chuck. Always check your set up to ensure you won’t crash. Use the tail stock center to get your tooling on center. I use the Machinist Pro phone app for speeds. Typically use .004” to .007” per revolution as a starting point for feed and just make some chips until you feel really comfortable starting stopping engaging and disengaging the controls and the feed. Then try cutting a 18 or 20 TPI thread but don’t worry about diameter, again just focus on engaging and disengaging and get a feel for your machine. Hope that helps.

@@BladesIIB Thank you for the great info! I've subscribed so I'll look forward to any videos you produce for "getting started"!!! In the meantime I'll certainly go through what you've already produced!!

@@PCModelBuilder thanks for subscribing. I will work on an into to the lathe video.

@justaguy4788 - Appreciate the comment. From Headstock to Tailstock I did also verify against the flat on the ways to level. For front to back, I did not have a set of blocks to put on the two flats to put the level across. The top of the V ways are not ground and the V are not the same height so I could not level across those. The carriage was the surface I had to measure across. 1-2-3 blocks across the flats would have been a better way yes. Using the carriage and checking it at both ends the same way should have reduced any twist though and that plus level head to tail should be pretty darn close IMO.

@@BladesIIB Sounds reasonable to me. Easy enough to test for and correct any twist if it becomes an issue

Thanks Paul, good thought. It has been very comfortable so far. I will look into that, sounds like a potential future project.

Dev Everything - Machine weight is listed as about 3410, add another 300 for shipping weight. Thanks for the question.

@@BladesIIB Thanks

Bruce Deleskey - Could definitely use a bigger shop. But even with my CNC mill added it is still workable. Thanks for the comment. 😁

John DeBrular - Yes, I could definitely use a larger shop, especially now that I wedged my Tormach CNC Mill in there. It is functional though. Thanks for the comment.

Jay Gee - Yes there are a couple of my originals in this one with me singing and playing the guitar. This was one of my first videos and I posted it with other music and learned about the copyright issues so I swapped in my own music instead. You will notice I don’t use any music on my other videos. Keep it simple. Thanks for the question.

Very nicely done, a man of many talents, both practical and artistic. Good on you for sharing, kind regards

@@jaygee9249 you are too kind, glad you enjoyed the music.

Blake, I am usually pretty quick with jokes - must be to early in the morning, I am missing something here?

Steve Callachor - Always appreciate comments and different opinions. Thankfully my lathe arrived safe, if it had tipped over in the crate, no doubt it would have been damaged. One of my first videos as you will see from my channel and I used my own music to fill the white space. Agree, my originals are likely not for everyone, you will notice I don’t use music anymore. As for who made the video, feel free to look me up on LinkedIn or in my other videos, should be clear that I am not affiliated with any company and there was no discount on the lathe, no promotional extras, nothing. If this was a professional video it would no doubt have been better quality. I am just a one man show with a shop, a hobby and a passion for trying to share some knowledge where I can. I hope you see some improvements in my more recent videos.