No! Leave that protective film on, it makes cleaning better because the face plate is protected from scratches while cleaning. I have gone 10 years before I finally peeled the film.

@@jwagnermail I agree. I protect my DROs panels with shrink wrap.If the panels on that lathe were engraved,I would say,go ahead but, they are silk screened.He is going to regret peeling that film off. I would cut peel and stick clear acetate over it before,it’s too late

@@jwagnermail exactly my thought, it keeps all the information from wearing off for a good while!

I knew there would be some sociopathic monsters that would come here and claim you should leave the plastic on. I don't know why anyone would actually want a nice new machine to have cheap plastic all over it.

@@barrishautomotive You haven't met my wife's mom then. She is from Peru and believes removing that film devalues the item. I am not allowed to remove it, even the pieces hanging down in front of the TV screens...

Same here hah

Me too lol

Same, favorite youtuber

Was it 'Loose jaws cost lives' ;) Or loose talk ;)

There are two types of people: Those that leave plastic covering on anything until it's dangling by a thread (no matter how crusty and disgusting it gets), and those that remove it immediately.

The plastic is for protection during manufacturing and assembly. It should be removed when you setup the device.

I like to leave it on for a while until it begins to look scuffed, then off it comes. I do like to keep it for protection for a while, but when it begins to make ti look bad, it has to go.

Depends how often you would need to do the job?

I was so glad to see Adam remove it from his machines. I purchased some machines that the buyer left it on. After years of shop exposure, it deteriorated and also wrinkled. The wrinkles held moisture and fluids behind the film and caused more damage to the plates they were designed to protect.

I keep mine on until it's a bit gross then I peel them off

@@larrymashburn7789 ok, but there's some middle ground there isn't there? Keep it on until it bubbles, then rip it off

@@WayneWerner I think that was her goal, but she cleans it with simple green. It's still on great shape 10 years later

I have a 15 year old multimeter that still has the film on the screen!

Ohhh great tip. Heck, I’d do that plus… it’s second oil change…. At about half to three quarters of the book… and then from there I’d do the book listed intervals.

Or you can just throw out what you drain. There's a reason for break in oil changes.

@@stargazer7644 Correct, the reason is to get the "crud" out of the machine, and then put the proper "load rated" lubricant into the gearbox. The purpose for inspection of the break-in lube is to see/peace of mind that there's no impending doom happening inside... and if there was, you have proof of a problem - and could send a sample to the mfg. - to bolster a warranty claim.

Yes, if this week has shown anything, emulating Europeans is certainly something I would be proud of.

I have this same lathe, & that is why I leave the bolts & clips in there. Chips & coolant would definitely get in there.

The protective films are not intended to be left on for long periods. You will find that the adhesive hardens and the film will not release easily , tears and/or the adhesive leaves a residue that is difficult to remove.

Adam is the owner, so he decided. What is your point?

Same

#metoo

Are you sure you're not envious?

@@stargazer7644 well then I wouldn’t be precise. Envious is also acceptable ;)

My exact thoughts, I can't count how many lathes I've seen with the front panel all faded, scratched up and grimy.

Who are you saving it for? The "next guy" doesn't count!

That plastic will degrade and stick to plate. Then you won’t be able to get it off. Better to take it off and then just good care of the machine

@@paulcopeland9035 saving it for yourself

@@StubProductions I don't agree, by the time it's that warn out it'll come off easy

Not in a leased space. They are nice unless you do a lot of welding...then not so much.

Should be zero!

Adam knows his audience. I used to watch him at 2x speed, now i learned to slow down and enjoy the slower pace.

His ceiling is over twenty feet high. That makes for a really long cable run and lots of voltage drop.

these PM lathes are pretty reasonably priced actually. I have a 1340gt on order and it cost me only 11k (I got about every add on PM offers, the machine was only like 7k). I'm so excited as this will replace my first manual lathe I ever bought (a tired grizzly g0602)

He outgrew his garage and he has so much money rolling in from youtube he was able to build his dream shop.

Might as well get it over with...

Got her tickets to the Aaron Lewis concert 🎶

That's what the Kubota was .

@@Abom79 I thought Abby wanted a forklift? :D

Me to it would have been extra protection for it.

Dealing with metal chips they'd eventually get trapped behind the plastic and end up scratching the crap out of the plates.

@@rileyk99 Sorry dude but that's ridiculous

have left plastic film on items like this for years, it surely helps it retain more value

@@two2pedal289 easy there keyboard warrior.

That's a very relevant comment sadly.

Because that's a trailer park thing to do. You take the plastic off when you install the thing.

That new lathe may be his commission! Matthew should outfit an Adam Booth signature model like Gibson and Fender do with guitars!

peeling off the protective layers is the first thing i do, literally better than unboxing!

I leave it till it peels on its own

I leave them on indefinitely.

I leave mine on, I've had silk screening start rubbing off over time when the film is removed...

Leaving them on is like having plastic covers for your furniture. When are you going to just enjoy it? Take them off and stop preserving it for a day when you'll be dead and never have appreciated it.

For the work Adam does, a Haas TL2 (or any other CNC) would be pretty close to useless.

If you have a one-lathe shop you're totally right but I doubt it's that necessary in his case as he has the existing machine shop plus the much larger lathe in the new place for heavier work. I can see this lathe getting used for the smaller, very high precision work and the larger one for most of the day to day jobs that don't need the extra accuracy. Edit: actually, if tool work or extremely precise jobs are your bread and butter, yeah it could be worth it. Really I can see the HAAS working well if you run a lot of repeat precision jobs to make the CNC capabilities worthwhile

@@rgetso He would use it all the time, those times of trying to keep a big radius tool from chattering to put in a corner radius, all the moving the tailstock to clear chips on deep holes, just a couple examples. If you are referring to heavy cuts, the TL2- is a 1-piece casting with no cutouts for lead screws, the TL-2 weighs 20% more, and the TL-2 has a 10HP motor instead of 5HP.

@@trainedtiger If you spend a few weeks binging on Adam's years of content, you will learn he has zero need for a CNC. He makes one off parts, repairs worn out parts, or modifies customer parts. Rarely does Adam do production jobs of any sort. If you think Adam is going CNC, you're barking up the wrong tree.

@@trainedtiger As for me, I'm trying to decide between a TL2 and a used SL10. I keep telling myself I NEED a CNC lathe to speed up repetitive work I've been doing on my manual lathe. It's hard to justify the cost for another CNC in my hobby machine shop garage. Last year's Mini Mill 2 purchase was expensive! A new Lexus would've been cheaper! I get way more use out of the Haas than a Lexus so it was definitely worth it.

Years ago I bought all LED lights for home to save electricity but after that I learned that they create blue light and dirty electricity so I threw them away and now use incandescent bulbs only because I rather use safer bulbs than save electricity.

@@flat-earther what is “dirty electricity“?

@@yalebaker7976 Dirty electricity AKA high frequency transients. It creates higher frequencies on your wiring which allegedly jump off of your wiring in your wall into your home which is not healthy, normally you only should have 50 or 60Hz. the LEDs work on DC so they have to turn the AC to DC and the way this is done in many devices creates high frequencies back to your wiring that should not be there. Many electronic device designers are not aware or don't care or know how to design products that don't ''pollute''. To measure it there are dirty electricity meters which you can plug into your outlet to test how much you have, also called EMI meters, power line meters. There is another cheap way to roughly detect dirty electricity with an AM radio tuned to about 520KHz, you can hear the noise with the radio. I just learned these things myself so I'm no expert. You can read more about it if you want.

@@flat-earther do you believe everything you read on the internet? Are you one of the people who thinks electricity will pour out of a receptacle if you switch it on without a plug in? I suggest you learn some actual facts or get some tinfoil and make yourself a hat

@@andyb7963 No I don't believe everything I read on the internet. No. I am a flat earther by the way. So I overcame a lifetime of globe indoctrination by looking at information and making my own mind up. I was hesitant to look into flat stationary earth after hearing about it but once I did I now don't _believe_ the earth is flat, I _know_ it is flat. But don't google flat earth because google will feed you the ''Flat earth society'' which is controlled opposition made to make you think flat earth is dumb and something it is not, for example they will tell you flat earth is a disc floating in space with other planets, no that it not what flat earth really is. Flat earth is actually the center of creation, and ''Space'' doesn't exist. ''Space'' which they tell us is a vacuum beside a pressurized earth atmosphere with no barrier in between is a violation of the second law of thermodynamics. Watch David Weiss for example to learn more about flat earth, his channel is DITRH. David is offering 3 bitcoins for 1 proof of the globe.