You're welcome and thanks for leaving feedback, I really appreciate it!

I got a free bike and went to ride it, but the tires needed air grabbed the trusty air compressor and went to give them air and discovered this wonderful new invention, what happens if you get a flat and need air at 7-11 start walking......

@@JoeyMesa 9

Not all come apart.

My pleasure!

You just gave the best tip or hack for a Presta valve. I came here hoping to see how to make one and use it. This guy knows nothing can't believe he didn't mention that hack!

Brilliant

@@grinkster thanks me too! This guy sucks

👏👏👏

Thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it!

@@JoeyMesa glad to help. Presta are tricky for most people but you show and explain it well.

This seems to have happened to ours. Is there a way to repair where that stem inserts into the tube?

@@jaymcgregor1681 no. Hard to repair that close to the stem.

@@richardkandalec8582 thanks for getting back to me, I'll throw it in the bin. Cheers

You're welcome! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback and keep on riding!

You're welcome!

Great bike! Bought one myself last year.

I guess if that's what you understand, then that's what you gotta do..

Joey Mesa - I don't have a need for the presta and from what I've seen it's much more convenient to air up at a gas station not having one. Plus, depending on the type of pump you carry on your bike, you can snap the presta.

Cold blooded. Ha

K.G. Thornburg - I don't mess around. I see a presta, I take it out. 💥💪😁

@@blipco5 Seriously, you use the gas station to inflate your bike? Get a pump man! Generally, I use a Co2 dispenser to inflate my Presta valves if I'm out on the trail/road and get a flat. Unless you've got some kind of whack ginormous fingers, Presta valves don't just "snap". Use your brain, it's in there somewhere!

Very welcome!

You're welcome!

You're welcome! Thanks for watching and leaving feedback, I really appreciate it!

Yes it is!

You're welcome! Thanks for commenting!

Thank you! I really appreciate your feedback and kind words!

Thanks!

@ALLANE1952 Hi there, I seem to have the same issue… were you able to solve this?

I have never had a problem with any of the issues you described.

Line the valve them at the 3:00 or 9:00 position when inflating. The tubeless sealant can clog valves if you get a bunch stuck in the valve, but it's not as bad as Schrader valves or using slime sealant. Worst case, if it gets clogged, just remove the valve and clean it or replace it.

You're welcome!

You're very welcome!

The sealant won't avoid punctures, it will seal the holes when you do get punctures. Does that make more sense?

@@JoeyMesa do I squeeze the sealant in and use my fingers to move them to the punctured area? Is there any downside to this?

@@holyduckr7700 You put the sealant into the tube before you get a puncture, not after. The sealant won't prevent the tube from being punctured, but it can seal the puncture almost instantly. Some punctures are too big for the sealant, such as a 2 inch gash on the sidewall, or a puncture from a long nail that stays in the tire, with the jagged, rusty nail half sticking out of the tire, kind of a thing. But most smaller punctures are almost instantly sealed when there's already sealant inside the tube before you ride. You can also search on KZfaq under "Stan's sealant" and see instructional videos, or do similar searches

you have to replace the tube as the valve stem is part of the tube.

No worries! Yeah, working at a shop with lots of triathletes running tubulars with deep rims, I've seen it frequently. Trust me, it's no fun. The valve extender I was referring to is the type where you unscrew the valve and thread a tube over the stem where the valve cap threads on, leaving the valve and relying solely on air pressure to keep the valve sealed. The preferred extenders are the type where you remove the valve core, thread the extender into it's place, then thread the core on top of the extender. Those type work very well.

You'll probably have to disassemble the pump head if that's possible. Most all pump heads will come apart to replace/service the rubber bits that wear out. Once disassembled, you should have better access to unscrew the stuck Presta valve tip.

You are totally screwed. 🧐

No worries glad my video could help

You're welcome!

Any time!

you're welcome! Thanks for taking the time to comment!

ME TOO>>>

You're welcome! Truth be told, I pretty much think I look stupid anytime I watch one of my videos!

No, you really just have to replace the whole tube.

Thanks for the tips!

You're welcome!

If the valve core threads into the valve stem, you can simply just replace the valve core. You can tell if the core is removable if there are flat sections on the threaded part where the plastic cap threads on. If the core is not removable, you just have to replace the tube.

Yeah, chances are if you have and older presta valve tube, the core is not removable, but it's not hard to check. I'd recommend a sealant like Stan's, Orange Seal or Bontrager TLR instead of Slime. From my experience, slime seals up punctures, but it also fouls up the valve and causes a slow leak in your valve core or making it difficult to inflate. The sealants designed for tubeless tires work much better in tubes than Slime.

@@JoeyMesa I was able to get the valve off, but it was too hard getting the slime in so I just changing the tube

I don't see any reason why it wouldn't be the same.

yea, i have probleme with that too.

The presta valve is so lame and annoying

You're welcome! Thanks for taking the time to comment!

I guess it depends on the tire size. I did a quick search on Amazon and it looks like most all sizes with a 48mm Schrader valve are readily available.

Tubular tires won't have a threaded valve stem nor do the alloy valve extensions for deep clincher rims. I guess from a weight weenie perspective, tape is lighter as well, but for the most part, I think it's more of a style thing. Most stylish roadies wouldn't be caught dead with a retaining nut on their wheels, but in the grand scheme of things, a retaining nut would work fine if your valve stem is threaded. Thanks for the question!

hold the valve stem with a set of pliers, and unscrew the cap loose with another set of pliers.

@@JoeyMesa thank you, i already did it but thanks for responding

You remove the valve core, just like I demonstrate in the video, unless you have Presta valves without removable cores, in which case you'll need modern Presta tubes. Also, tubeless sealant in tubes works way better than slime.

Do you have email

You're welcome!

@Melissa. You may need an adapter for your bicycle pump. Many pumps are designed for Schrader valves, not Prestas. And as shown in the video, the little “latch” on the pump head must be in the vertical position to allow air to pass, which for me, seemed counterintuitive at first.

Watch the video from 8 minutes onwards

Hey Melissa, what type pump are you using? The tips I can offer are, unscrew the the top of the valve, give it a quick tap to break the seal, push pump head down, lock it in place and pump it to the desired pressure.

Sort of. Sometimes valves will get crooked under hard braking if riding a tire with very low tire pressure. The tire will rotate a little on the rim pulling the valve up and sideways. Other than that, it's hard to say without knowing what type setup you have. Presta or Schrader valve? It's possible the tube is overlapping itself at the point of the valve? I would probably start by letting the air out, resetting everything and make sure the tube is correctly installed, then reinflate.

I wish I could let the air out. The tube must’ve spun on the rim. The stem is gone, and the tire is fully pumped up. Strange! Thanks for the reply though!

@@robburke8867 So are you talking about the top part that unscrews? Sometimes those can break off and you can let the air out with a small Allen wrench by sticking it inside.

It’s definitely a schrader value I’m sure the tube spun and the valve disappeared. I guess I’ll just pop the tube through the valve hole!

Yes, as long as it's inflated already. Sometimes inflating a tube with the tip broken off will result in the lower portion of the valve falling down into the tube.

If the core is replaceable like the tubes in the video, you can remove the broken core and replace it with a new core. If the core is not replaceable, you just have to replace the entire tube.

Happy to help!

Just make sure it's snugged down against the rim. If it's loose, it makes an annoying rattling noise. Thanks for the question!

If you believe it's a bad idea to snug it down, you can back it up all the way to the top and lock it back against the plastic valve cap. I'm not convinced that tightening it against the rim can rip the inner tube.

The core needs to be tighter in the valve stem. If it’s coming loose this easily, it’s not tight enough.

Before the valve core was removable, we used to force the little brass tip off, let it drop, but hold it in the tube while installing sealant and then work the pin back and reinstall the brass tip. I think that is the process you're thinking of? On most modern Presta valve tubes, the complete valve assembly threads out in one self-contained unit. Nothing to possibly fall into the tube, but easy to add sealant. If you have 2 wrench flats on your valve stem where the valve cap threads on, you have a removable core.

Sir thank u 4 this detailed info. Very useful info to help viewers become fundamentally sound

Yeah, once you get to know them they're really pretty simple! Thanks for commenting!

You're welcome! Thanks for commenting!

You can use a small adjustable crescent type wrench. There are two wrench flats on the top of removable valve cores. Thanks for the question!

The weakest point of a bicycle rim is where the valve hole is. Not a huge deal with fat rims, but for narrower rims, it is. You can deflate a Presta valve much quicker than a Schrader valve (not a factor for the home hobbyist mechanic, but it is for the production mechanic trying to squeeze 10 hours of work into an 8 hour workday). More options in valve stem lengths for Presta, and valve stem extenders for different rim depths and profiles. Sealant doesn't clog the valves as easily in Presta valves as it does with the spring in Schrader valves. Presta valves have been around since the mid 1930's. At the bike shop where I work, basic butyl rubber tubes are the same price for either Presta or Schrader tubes.

Valve tip unscrewed all the way and the seal still won't break free? If the valve core is not removable, you can cut the valve stem in half or if the tire needs to be replaced, just make a cut in the tire.

That is awesome!

Yip when next intown go buy yaself a pump to suit the valve you have &keep it with your bike, coz thos presta valves are real delicate &can break easily so if the pump you have isnt correct to the application itll simply make destroying the valve while trying to use the wrong pump for theses valves , bicycle pumps are very cheap so I believe it good advice to suggest you purchase the correct pump apropriate to your cycles hardware. Goodluck.

Yes, it's not necessary. It can be helpful if the air is very low and you're pushing the pump head onto the valve to inflate, it will hold the valve in place.

It really depends on the tire width, what the bike will be used for and your reasons for going tubeless. For mountain bikes, or any tire wider than 2" or 50mm, it's really a no brainer, because tubeless is the way to go. If you have a road bike with 28mm wide tires or less, and your primary reason to run tubeless is to avoid flat tires from punctures, I'm still not 100% on board with tubeless. There's not really an exact standard in the bike industry with different tire and rim manufacturers. Some rim/tire combinations are extremely difficult to mount and some are too loose and easy to burp or even come off the rim completely in a high-speed cornering situation. Other times, it's just a pain and you're constantly fighting a slow leak situation, not to mention how much of a hassle it can be to fix a flat on the side of the road or trail if you do happen to get a flat on a road tubeless tire. The bike in the video is my all-weather commuter bike. In a perfect world, I would probably have 3 wheelsets with different tire combinations, all set up tubeless. The problem is, currently I don't have extra wheelsets, nor the place to store extra wheelsets in my apartment. I probably swap the tires once or twice a month during the winter, which is not a good option dealing with the sealant mess and such. I don't really need super low air pressures either, so having tires with sealant in the tubes makes tire changes super easy with no mess, so in this particular situation, for me, a tube with sealant works better.

Joey Mesa Thank you a lot for your response. I’m going tubeless in my MTB and with your method in my gravel. Makes a lot of sense what you said. Happy Thanksgiving.

Good advice!

Not all valve stems are threaded. Lots of wheels with deep rims have valve extenders without any threads.

Working on it!

If it's damaged it could. It doesn't leak any more than any other type valve.

@@JoeyMesa mine is woods valve can I replace with it?

Cool! I've been working on bikes since the 70's and cars since the 80's. To me the Presta valve is the better option for bikes and Schrader valves are better for cars.

Yes a nut which has the same thread as the valve stem is commonly used to tighten the valve against the rim.

If you're running a deeper carbon rim, you may have to use an extender which is not threaded. Also some folks don't like the nut directly against the rim.

@@JoeyMesa Interesting about the nut. I've been riding for over 50 years and still snug down the nut. Are you suggesting it will damage a rim? I've used the nut on my Scram 80's, Profile Design 60's, and my off-brand 50's with no adverse. They seem to stop the chatter when I use them. Regardless, nice article.

Most of the newer ones are, but 5-10 years ago, almost none were.

Man, if I only knew that before I spent a half a day trying to remove one. Thanks for the confirmation.

Prest? Fuss?

You probably need a new inner tube if the tire lost air pressure. Check your pump on a known good tire to isolate the issue. The pump may be fine, but the tube just won't hold air.

Joey Mesa sorted it now mate was using wrong pump never had to deal with one of these valves before lol cheers anyway man

It's a side hustle he helps me out with...

I don't hate the Schrader valve, I'm just showing some of the benefits of the Presta valve. I could probably say "don't hate the Presta " much more often.

Learning new things can be hard sometimes...

Many deep carbon rims require a valve extender, which is not threaded, so a presta nut is not an option. Same for tubular tires on carbon rims. The tape keeps the valve stem from clacking against the carbon fiber and keeps things quiet.

It sounds like you saw that the valves were "different" and automatically decided they were terrible. Presta valves are actually less complicated and easier to inflate when you get a flat in the middle of nowhere and have to change a tube. Tire inflation technology has come a long way since the 70's. Not sure how you would use Schrader valves in a deep carbon wheel?

@@JoeyMesa you wouldn't need a 10 minute tips and tricks video if they were less complicated and easier to inflate.

Yeah, you should probably just get some of those solid rubber tube replacement things... Then you'll never have to think about how to inflate your tires at all!!!

Presta valves were common as there wasn't an alternative. There's Schraeder valves now so I don't know why they still insist on using presta valves.

Maybe because they work better?

​@JoeyMesa better for what?

Too complex? You do know Presta valves have fewer parts right?

@@JoeyMesa rarely do you have to take Schraders apart or unscrew them, just attach the pump on the valve and pump

@@brucegaylord1318 you don’t have to disassemble presta valves either, unless you’re adding sealant, but you have to do the same with schrader valves. Presta valves deflate quicker using just your finger. They take in air quicker as well. It sounds like your experience with presta valves is pretty limited, you don’t really understand them, therefore you dislike them.

@@JoeyMesa Yea, but they work.

@@brucegaylord1318 I'm old and grew up riding 15yo bikes with dry rotted tires never had a schrader issue.

I like them. A lot!

If presta valves are your normal, just learn how to use them?!?!

Thanks for the tip

If you own a bike with presta valves, and actually ride it, there’s no excuse for not owning a good pump as well. It’s the most commonly used tool for general maintenance…

@@JoeyMesa

Your totally right. You didn't get my humor@@JoeyMesa

Someone who is new to the Presta valve might find the information helpful. Presta valves probably cost less to produce since there are fewer moving parts, so I don't think it is about any company trying to make more money, but then again, I can tell you're an idiot because you edited your comment, but your punctuation is still awful.

Maybe you should take a photo of it first, study it for a bit then try again.

I guess I've just been exposed to both types of valves for so long, I'm indifferent. Presta valves are faster to get air in and let air out if you're swapping tires. On a narrower rim, from a strength standpoint, Presta valves are really the only options. There are more valve lengths available in Presta for a variety of rim depths. The part where the valve joins up to the tube is generally more durable on Presta valves than Schrader, at least from what I've experienced. All in all, it doesn't really matter. If you prefer Schrader valves, go with them. This video isn't about what type of valve is better, it's just about ways to better utilize the Presta valve. Anyway, thanks for your question and feedback!

Sounds like maybe your inflation technique needs work

@@JoeyMesa no the presta valves are weak and poorly designed

Oh well, too bad you feel that way. I've been dealing with them for 35+ years at my day job and never had any major issues with them. Definitely no more than Schrader valves, but you do you.

@@JoeyMesa So, the very 1st time I went to pump my new bikes tires, the valve broke off. I paid someone like 80$ to fix it and the same exact thing just happened. There's no way I'm paying that amount again and I feel like I got ripped off the 1st time even though it was a friend of my dads. Is it difficult to replace? Apparently the entire tire has to be taken apart and a new tube put in?

Joey, let me get this straight, the original poster says there terrible and they break, you blame him as if he doesn’t know how to inflate a tire, and you do all of this, after spending 10 minutes, talking about all the pitfalls of the design, even at one point recommending electrical tape, not to mention the countless horror stories of almost every commenter of your video, having a whole range of problems. ITS A TIRE VALVE! Spending anytime explaining the pitfalls of a tire valve bears out what the original poster is claiming. Just because they are on expensive bicycles doesn’t make them more worth a damn. The irony of it all. Great video by the way.

Gotta stay focused when working on bikes...