Awesome, I have been doing electrical for 40 years and your knowledge for your short time in the field is superb. I've been a unrestricted electrical contractor in Atlanta since 2005 and I have a lot of guys with 20 years experience that wouldn't have a idea . Thanks

Really appreciate the time and positive energy.

Have been doing electrical work for over 30yrs. Thought your video was good. Thanks

Your videos on the generator install were very helpfull in my generator install. Your information and the input from the folks at Cresent Electric made it go smooth for me. Thank you.

Thank you for your videos. I really enjoyed them. Installed my 24kw earlier this month. Your videos were a good reference tool for me to verify a few things... Thanks again and God bless!!!

thanks for the video. the world is full skeptics. Your video gave me enough information to understand the value of having it doen by a licensed electrician.

Amen on that! I used to be an electrician and saw many "homeowner" installations. The best I think was plastic wall anchors used to splice two wires together. On another note! Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

That was a good point on the iluminum lugs and copper wires!

Awesome, I see its still they still require it in Ohio, the install was clean and organized. Thanks for checking on all the comments. You answered all my questions. Thanks again.

I currently own my electrical business and you told it like it is. Materials are hard to get these days but always notify your electrical inspectors of this issue usually they will work with you and they know you are not trying to pull a fast one on them. Stay in good standing with your inspectors. They will respect you for it.

Thanks very much for a great series... this makes me want to perform the initial cabling myself instead of paying (way too much IMHO) for a contractor to do it. I have done some of this in the past as a DIY at the house. I of course will do the electric company/inspector/propane installation as you did. Thanks!!!

As a Houston Texas master electrician that is active . i always install Bushings , compound , and i do not run service conductors through other panels .Plus copper wire is always a plus .

I'm pretty certain grounding bus bars and lugs are tin-plated aluminum. The tin-plating reduces corrosion potential and allows them to be dual rated. Additionally, they are "through" lugs with sufficient clamping force produced to overcome the mechanical issues arising from different coefficients of thermal expansion.

Thanks for the update ! About 12:00 - "Flex is supposed to go ". It's actually the other way around. Generac install manual says: "Flexible fuel line must not be connected directly to generator fuel inlet. Always connect flexible fuel line to an approved gas fitting." The generator also has a built-in sediment trap, so there was no particular need for installing another one where they did. Maybe the extra sediment trap is for the copper line ... but that's strange to put it there. That flex pipe does indeed look unprofessional and Generac does says no kinks or bends are allowed ... though it's probably fine anyway.

On your last video I made the comment if you did have a lock out plate on your panel. I now understand why you don’t need one the way you have wired the generator. Thanks this is good learning video. Thanks

I installed a 20KW back in May myself. I am a homeowner and did 100% of the work myself with no help. I also replaced my old 100Amp panel with a 200Amp one myself. I will say that anyone who doesn't know what they are doing should not attempt to install one. But it is possible. I did tons of research, watched countless videos, read through instruction manuals and all kinds of charts to make sure I sized the wires correctly and it was a lot more work and time than it would have been for an electrician, but it was done well and my inspector complimented me on it. He was surprised when he found out that I am not an electrician and in fact work in healthcare. I also ran a feeder to the detached garage, I repiped my entire home with pex and manifold system, put in a new front door and side garage door including having to reframe it because the framing was messed up.

Hi good evening, I just watched some of your videos and I like them, you are very clear explaining. Take care yourself and keep going giving some education in this electrical work

Neutral / Grounding bars are also an aluminum alloy just like the modern cables and are tin plated which prevents corrosion even when used with copper conductors.

very good. watched yours and others, due to fact I will be installing a few within the next year & trying to pick up knowledge. I have done lots of electrical, including rewiring homes, but never put in a transfer box. I have put in gas line, but for heaters, stoves & water heaters. never for generator. I have 2 homes, & going to do 2 small units, 8K at each home, then I have 2 co-workers I said I would do installation, 1 wants a 24k, the other needs a 38k system, she refuses to give up comforts, presently use multiple generators backfeeding panel her husbands doing, & take rides around neighborhood every hour to see when neighbors get power on, to know to cut generator off & main breaker on.

your gas looks ok generac provides a drip leg inside the case so no need for and external one also galvanized is a nono for gas, use rustolium gray oil based to paint your pipe, the twisting of the flex is just from over-tightening. otherwise its a real nice install

I like when you said ‘NoLox’ all the crows crowed. lol Great video series. I’m going to install my generator in April and your videos really helped visualize what I was reading.

This why electricians don’t post videos cause all the comments are a bunch of complainers and critics keep doing what you do bro no need to explain to them

Looks good i got similiar situation generac 26kw partial setup also to run power to metal barn

Thank you for your Generac videos, will be getting one.

My Wife and I are about to have our Generac Propane powered generator installed as soon as it get in. Since our gas line will run off our 500 gal tank, the company that owns that tank will have to Install the gas line to the generator if I'm not mistaken. I was not sure if your gas supply was Natural gas or Propane but I heard you say that you got another company to install that so that's leading me to believe you have Natural gas as the supply. Thanks for the video. You are very knowledgeable on the Electric side of it.

You learn something every day. No de-ox is a much cleaner job, that's for sure.

Actually, having watched the two install videos, I realized that I could do it, but probably would not. Thanks for that.

Just an apprentice here, but I work in Western Washington and I can confidently say whether your local jurisdiction requires it or not you should use noalox in any sort of damp or coastal area because there tends to be more risk of corrosion. Just my two cents

I recently retired from my 45 year career as a Industrial Electrician. Seldom have I done any Residential or Commercial work . But I suggest you double check your Grounding Connections as the Code has changed quite a bit ( For a good reason) There are excellent Video's on You Tube explaining the latest Bonding and Grounding Code changes.

You should use poly-coated stainless steel outdoor flex line for the gas such as Easyflex Yellow Coated Stainless Steel 3/4" MIP x 3/4" FIP Full Flow

It's due to dissimilar metals not just oxidation. Copper, aluminum and steel will cause corrosion when it contact with each other.

At about 4:00, asking about CU ground wires landed in an AL ground bar. One answer is that these CU conductors do not routinely carry current, so electrolysis is not an issue. Also, if it was my home, I'd put a piece of Counterstrike between the regulator and the El. Since I am old school, I might re-pipe it without street Els.

My situation here in Washington state is a bit different. My meter is on a pole 100' from my house. There's a disconnect on the pole with the meter that cuts power to the property. I have an outside panel on a waist high post about 4' from the house. This receives power from the meter and distributes it to the house, outbuildings, pump, septic, shop, etc. My generator transfer switch is on the side of the house near the outside panel and generator. I have to route the power infeed cables from the distribution panel to the transfer switch and back to the distribution panel. This will necessitate either splicing the main power cables or a box to allow connections. There doesn't appear to be a simple, straightforward, and inexpensive way to make this installation. I'm quite comfortable with doing 90% of this job. It's the 10% of the splice/connection box that has me concerned. I can put everything in place and run the appropriate wires/conductors confidently in conduit and LiquidTite Flex. How do you recommend the "splice/extension" be done for the incoming lines from the remote meter? Any help is appreciated even if it is direction to applicable information. Local electricians aren't a good resource as they simply want me to pay them to make the connection. If I must, I must. Thank you.

As a Master Electrician, AHJ, and Electrical Subject Matter Expert. Great point on the Nolux. It was recommended by the wire manufacturer, not the code. Glad you mentioned about not mixing Al and Cu in a wire nut. Galvanic corrosion is no joke. As for your passing through the panel to the Gen Disconnect. I am sure with existing service, most AHJ would allow that, since it is obvious it for the Gen transfer. FYI, some states (Tx, Nm) do not allow homeowners to perform any electrical work and some utilities will fine the home owner for going into the meter box illegally. Material is scarce, code is 1" conduit and #4 wire. Great job, keep up the good work.

Thanks for your comments on this generator installation project. Much appreciated 👍 12:56

My Honeywell came with a rubber flex hose that I installed into gen direct for any vibration from the unit.

Stripping the wire with a utility knife, cutting or nicking the wire, is that de-rating the wire? and looks like that 2 1/2 in conduit would be considered overloaded? and is there not a torque rating for the lugs to be tighten to?

Mine came with a pre made flexible 18 inch gas rubber line for LP hookup straight from generator with flare pipe fittings and hose was pre made with female flare swivel connectors on it . Nice job tho . I’m getting to reinstall the old Generac generator at a different location , the one I’m referring to is about 10 years old and barely any time of use on it, so my friend wants it reinstalled at his other new camp. My transfer switch also has breakers in it and was under the porch and I’m a bit concerned about them being out in the open, I think Generac has upgraded to the transfer switch you have and mine is just older tho. I’m still looking into it before I fully reinstall it . Any info would be appreciated. Ty

Glad you emphasized safety. My uncle was killed by an arc flash off an industrial panel he thought was off . Come to find out the guy he sent do cut power cut the wrong power and the panel was still hot. It happens. Not a lot of margin for error with electricity. You have to know what you are doing.

Do the 2,5 "nipples connecting the three panels carrying your 3/0 wiring require a grounding collar? Great video, very informative.

About 40 years ago I had to fix at least 6 violations when a carpenter installed a 200 amp service and a 100 amp service for a commercial building. Clown never used a single plastic bushing and asked my great inspector if he know the easiest method to correct it. T&B back then made heavy maroon colored what almost looked like giant anti shirt bushings that you slipped together. I installed two at every entrance. Maybe they still make them. I mentioned that you could spend a lot more $ & purchase grounding bushings. Think maybe once or twice when supply house was out of the plastic bushings purchase metal bushings.

I was going to comment on your previous video but there were already plenty of inspectors on this job. The one thing you didn’t cover that is more than just a code technicality is torquing the terminals. My last ten years as an electrician was as a specialist doing check outs and commissioning of new installations and getting involved any time there was a failure or other problems in the large chemical plant where I worked. One of the things I did was infrared scanning of all the electrical equipment on our 100 acre site, from high voltage substations down to lighting panels in offices and research labs. I have found and repaired hundreds and hundreds of poor connections and 90%+ were the result of improper torquing. Everybody thinks they know how tight things need to be but I can prove that most of them don’t. Unless you routinely use a torque wrench and ratchet of the same length to get a feel for a particular value then you won’t be close. When I was doing construction we installed a lot of Allen Bradley motor control centers and we did a lot of buss bar splices and we got to where we could get very close but we still went back and checked every bolt. It’s pretty embarrassing when you have to shut down an entire production facility 2 days after a new switchgear install just because someone was too lazy or too stubborn to use a torque wrench on a connection. I personally will NEVER use aluminum for anything. Yes it can be used safely but compared to copper the expansion and contraction from heating and cooling is just too great for my taste. In my plant where we had almost 50 electricians, a couple of hundred contracted electricians, and a staff of about 30 electrical engineers we didn’t allow any aluminum wire anywhere for anything. Do yourself a favor, buy a torque wrench and use it.

Generac normally includes a rubber flex line to be used with the gas connection. They're very specific that it's used straight, without any bends, as it's only there for vibration isolation and not to replace an elbow. I like that you used 2 conduits for power and control wires even though they can all be jammed in the same pipe with 600 volt insulation. The toughest part is getting the power conductors through the 90 degree sealtite fitting at the generator. I normally use an aluminum mogul LB, steel nipple and a Meyers hub at that location for ease of wire install. Not sure if you have squirrels in Florida but that plastic pipe and sealtite is squirrel food in Northern areas.

You are not required to use bushings on pvc , but yes you are require to use it on size 4 and larger .

We just had a 24kw Generac installed and our flex hose runs different than yours. We have a small black pipe coming out of the generator housing and then connects to the flex hose. Then the flex hose connects to the regulator and cutoff.

The generator wires are a lot smaller than the power line. What is the rating on the generator and what happens if you go over it? Or are the breakers total lower and you cannot add more than the genre to rating?

Thanks man! Rock on!

Is the grounds and naturals inside the panel in the house separates also?

Thank you for your Generac videos. but keep eye on gas line ! Copper valve and galvanized pipe will be deteriorate each other very quickly....

I believe manufacturers not the code have always recommended wire brushing & anti- oxidant because of the thin film that sometimes builds up on aluminum conductors. Wire brushing is always good practice even if none is applied.

Lugs marked CU/AL or AL/CU are an alloy that can use copper or aluminum conductors.

My only question on the nipple, is it overfilled? Pretty sure max fill rate for a nipple like that is 60% and regular conduit is 40%. Depends on the wire type, insulation, and gauge, per NEC. I’m not an electrician, but I grew up with one. Like the videos, planning to build and go with a similar setup. Keep up the good work.

Just one question, and I am an ex electrician, but what is the wire size for E1, E2, and the ground and neutral for generator main power. It looks like the two hot wires are 2/0 or 4/0, and the ground and neutrals a little smaller? Thank you for you time!

Have you ever installed load shedding modules for hvac, water heaters, ranges etc., if so how do those get wired in for operation? Thank you.

@ 5:45 - Your way looks SOOOOOOOO much better!

What I have in the planning stage is to use a Meter Main Combo bringing in 320/400. The Siemens Meter Main will have 8 slots for a potential 16 breakers. And will have (2) 200 Mains one for the main house and one for a large garage with attic trusses to create a bonus room. The garage 200A Load Center will also have a sub panel with sub-panel breaker to feed a 100A Load Center for my RV garage several hundred feet from the main garage/house. You mentioned in the video that you did not want to use a Combo Meter Main? Can you expound on that a bit more? I like the idea of the combo that has the ability to have 2-200A mains to feed my two load centers (one for the main house in a basement utility room and the second for the garage/bonus room). The Generac Transfer Switch in this proposal will be set up similar to the way you show here. I am just curious why your set-up is different than what I have in mind using a Siemens PN MC0816B1400RTLM 320A Continuous 120/240V 1-Phase 60 Hz 22KAIC with 2-200A main disconnects. I did create a diagram of what I believe the wiring schematic would look like, and I will present my plan and sketch to my Electrical Contractor (I am not doing the work myself), but ahead of doing that I wanted to understand why you made that comment. It would be great to be able to email you my diagram for comments but I am sure you don't want your email posted here? but thanks in advance for any reply -- Retired Person (over 50 years now of construction management)

Good video. Now I have to tell my wife I was wrong. From the view in your backyard I guess you were in Texas 😂😂😂😂😂

thank you for shearing ..

Flexible gas lines can’t penetrate through steal cabinets. That flex line is perfectly acceptable outside.

It is almost impossible to keep those flex lines straight, with no twist or bind, as that happens on the final few turns of the nut onto the flare fitting. As others have stated, code states no flex line through a cabinet. This is to keep vibration from cutting through the "thin" material of the flex. Black iron pipe would not be effected by vibration.

if your ground bar is al/cu compatible which most are its ok to mix attach them but never splice , same with no lox if the lug being used isnt al rated you should use nolox

My motto mother pluckers, is be honest, or be a politician. Around 65 now, retired carpenter/general. When I was young (Eric Burden & The Animals) an old timer “said exactly what you said”. Treat wires as though they are hot, one wire at a time, was a good idea. I’m glad you got away from it. I took two years of “low-volt” in school, I’m still having fun with electronics. Worked on a solar project or two, “to learn what a giant scam it is”. It’s good, but it’s not great, yet, just give us pesky humans time.

Those lugs are rated for copper or (AL/CU).

Hi, I liked your Generac videos. Can you tell me how & wehere to install the Generac 7000 50 Amp Smart Management Module, Gray? Thanks.

First let me say this the ones who said anything negative are well full of them selfs your job not only looks great I am following it step by step to hook up my own exact same gen and want to say thank you because where I live getting anyone to come out to do this is almost next to impossible and the one con man that did say he come do it wanted 3600 to do it look it's not rocket science although not easy as well only thing I'm doing different is I just took my 200 amp main out and replaced it with the auto 200 amp I even just turned it back on even though I hadn't hooked up generator yet I plan on doing that this next week so hey I want to say this thanks to you not only did I save 3600 I learned something new so thanks for taking the time to show us idiots how to do something right and your right about the things needed 4 hardware stores had do same thing and like u I haven't heard one real answer why like osb use to buy for 10 now 40 what bull

Which panel should of had the earth ground and neutral all together with adding the TS.

What are the unfused conductors in the raceway?

My electrical inspector said ALWAYS use the No Ox grease on aluminum conductors. I don’t see any grease on your conductor terminations.

Love the videos, wish they were available when I had mine installed. I knew even with experience it was going to be a long process by myself so I subbed it out to a local electrician. I bought a cold weather kit before the generator arrived and never installed it because the connection wires were missing. Just got the wire's shipped to me and installed the kit. Tested the E1 and E2 on the ATS and it's 15vac... Discovered this because the connectors to the cold weather kit were only at 15vac which lead me to test it in the ATS. N1 and N2 there are also at 15vac. If I connect +/- I get -OL-. Is this because the electrician didn't separate the bonds and grounds? They're coming back in a week to check, it's been installed since June.

Individual terminations are marked AL,CU or Al/CU indicating that are rated for only AL or CU or both. Per NEC ! No worries, great install. Enjoyed the videos

Muy buen trabajó

I’m just about to do my own install, I’m not paying a cable jockey as there are plenty of how to vids on the good old KZfaq.

Do you have a separate electric meter for your house?

Very nice videos on the standby gen, So the generator feeder cable size looked much smaller than all of the other feeder cables, What size was used and why is it smaller. Also why direct bury part of this feeder cable? Why not ensure it in conduit all the way? Thanks

Like a few words about the interlock wires between the generator and the transfer switch panel

The gas piping needs some work. A larger pipe out of the meter is needed for volume at start up. 10’ pipe is recommended and a fast opening regulator. You are correct in that the flex corrugated pipe connects inside the generator to rigid pipe. That flex pipe allows for vibration of the unit. Inadequate gas piping will cause motor failure.

Did you consider a Kohler generator during your stand by generator shopping ?

Really liked your video! I’m in the process of installing my generator. What size wire did you use from the generator to the transfer switch? Thanks for you video!

Love your video and this is the second time watching. One dealer states they would not and was told by Generac to lock out a heat pump because it would cause problem with the generator. They won't even do a delay start for a heat pump. What are your thoughts, was looking to get 24kw? Thanks.

Mind sharing where you got your wire? It looks like 2-2-4-6 but can't tell.. thx

Got 45 years doing electrical. Seen aluminum wire glowing red along a wall between disconnect box and electric furnace. Problem with not using penetrox is this: you don't know the composition of wire off the shelf. There may be new-old-stock being sold and used which could create a problem. You don't want to take a chance. Good advice is ALWAYS use penetrox with aluminum. Back in the day 14 ga and up household wiring allowed use of aluminum and there's still quite a bit of it out there. Anytime someone finds it they should penetrox all terminals. And hope they don't have a fire.

Great series on a generator install. In N. Florida, what do you think is a fair price to install one like yours (24kw) professionally if I have it sitting on a pad with my meter & gas 20’ away? Thanks from New Orleans 🎭

The drip leg on the gas is not needed as there is one built into the genset. I do think an external valve should be on the line between regulator and genset however. I'm in process of installing one now. I have 30 years with an electric & gas utility. The one thing I noticed at the end of video is that there is a 1/2" line coming off top of propane tank yet 3/4 poly being run to the genset. I'll have to ask my gas supplier if it matters at all. The 26Kw machine I am putting in requires a 3/4" line.

Hey boss. One question, I tried to turn on a Generac 24 Wk generator but it didn't turn on, I thought it was the battery. and it says ready to turn on but it doesn't make a noise click

Maybe someone can explain why the bridge between grounding and neutral bars. (Sorry if I missed it) I might consider a 400 amp service to two 200 amp boxes for house and then everything else.

Great video Mr Maynard. I had a generator installed at my house in March 2022. I have a combo meter and electrical panel with a divider built into it. The electrician who wired it said that he could wire that ats into my existing setup. He also indicated I will be getting a visit from the permits department in my local jurisdiction to inspect and sign off on the installation. As of this date I have not gotten a visit from the jurisdiction. It may be coincidental but I noticed my LED lights inside my house quickly blink every time the AC compressor engages. I don't recall this happening before the generator was installed. I plan on contacting the jurisdiction to have them come out but don't want them to tank my whole setup. Kind of at a loss on how to proceed any suggestions?

Have you also connected solar panels together with the generator?

I'm guessing the flex gas line is for movement in case the earth moves the regulator.??

I may be all wet and maybe it is not a concern in your particular area, but with the 2 Generacs that I have had installed, I had to maintain 3 meters (10 feet) from the gas regulator, one propane, one natural gas. Thoughts?

You can wire nut aluminum to copper . ideal 30-165 are the wire nuts to connector the 2 metals, tho i wouldn't do it in the panel just because its ugly.

I bought a home and when I took possession, the generator was running. It made sense because the owner had disconnected the power before I took possession. I called the electric company and setup a new service. A few minutes after the service was connected, the generator turned off (make sense). After a few minutes, however, I lost power to the entire home. The generator didn't do anything, and I didn't have power. I called the electric company, and they confirmed the home had power. What could be the issue? Is it the transfer switch? ***** Troubleshooting I performed: I removed the panel from the generator, and the switch was on the "ON" position. I flipped it to "OFF" position, and the generator kicked back on and power was restored. I then returned the switch to the "ON" position, and the generator turned off. This time I didn't lose power to the home. ***** Appreciate your insight.

You literally answered all the comments I saw from the other video lol

I had dealer install and he used a piece of angle iron and sank it several feet down and attached to gas line to reduce vibration of the gas pipe. The flexible pipe goes directly into generator - not in between as noted in video. Not saying which is correct, sharing the way mine was done.

I would question your statement that ground and buss bars are aluminum. Aluminum is much more likely to strip the threaded connections. Possibly aluminum coated steel, like exhaust pipe.

My generator install included mobile link. All I have ever gotten in trying to get it to work is a weak signal from the Generac which will not hook up to my Wi-Fi. I tried to get help from the Installation co.. Generac and Mobile Link. but got no response from any of them. I am paying extra for this service so why am I being ignored. Neighbor has same problem. Got any ideas how I might be able to solve the problem? Did not see any accounts of this problem in reviews I found prior to purchase. Seems there is no integrity left in the people who run these companies. for me I have to have oxygen respirators 24 hours a day to survive, and I can't trust the utility to react quickly enough in the event of an outage. Also, can't understand why the installation cost. 3 times more than the generator. Any advice would be appreciated.

After researching a few different residential generators i have decided on a Kohler.

UR GREAT TKS TO ME IT LOOKS SIMPLE

we always do these hot just because in our area it can take days for the electric provider to come back out. i guess technically not the legal way but at least the customer isnt without power.

The 6 small wires from gen. to the transfer switch look like my internet cable!

This was great, you addressed all the naysayer. Keep it up. You’re a leader not a follower! The view never changes when you follow!