You can make things easier by picking a standard spot and putting in a couple 1/4-20 flat head screws on your insulator plates. Same with the locator ring. On the slides, if you cut a .020-.040 deep figure 8 on them it helps with the lube and wear. Cutting the figure 8 with a small dia ball cutter also helps. You brought up the mold lasting 10,000 shots. If you know you are going to want more then that, but aren't going to make enough shots for a production tool, anodizing helps a lot to extend tool life. It also helps keep the finish good, so you don't have to keep re-polishing and blasting. On the hold down straps, you likely always use the same size backing plate and insulator on most molds. Making some straps with a peppermint spacer on the back is a really nice thing or just cutting a spacer the size you need and supper glue it under the straps you are using. It then no longer requires 3 hands to put them on and lets the wrench swing over the top of them. I also find it easier to put the knock out bar/bolt in the mold before putting the mold in the press. Just a few little things. Thanks for the videos, I like the channel

Yea this is awesome. You answered a lot of questions I had. Thanks for going through and filming all this.

Thanks for another fascinating video Dave! Stay healthy.

fascinating to watch. how we mount a mould in so many different ways. \where i work, direct bolts, clamps and my fave magnetic platens. really a great watch. have subscribed, Our company is mainly upvc. Building products. I am aspergers and I actually enjoy my job. 30 plus years in injection moulding. regards Mick

I enjoy your videos much. Thanks for the good explanations. 💪

Very cool, thanks for sharing. Love all the toys like the conveyors :)

I learned a lot. Good to see the process step by step.expecting more videos can see

Thank you for this informative video it really helps me on my apprenticeship. Keep youtubeing!

This is gold. You are a saint.

Great videos, fascinating to watch and learn.

Fascinating. Thanks for sharing.

I love how you show Chewbacca in the background every time it makes the clamping sound

Amazing Video Thank you for sharing. That's a shady crane/winch setup you use I was nervous the whole time :D Thank you again.

your enthusiam and tenacity comes over. I kind of think working with you would make the job very interesting. I am learning alot about injection molding and some of the pieces that make it happen. Thanks for the education and enjoyment.I wonder if you should be doing training films for the industry.

Tap a hole in each mold half. Put a tie bar across with two bolts to keep the mold closed. Put a lifting eye in the bar at the balance point. This will keep the mold together for handling, installation and storage. We always do it this way.

The video I been looking for .

You are doing better than some who call themselves molders. 1- molding is a heat process, you need to achieve precise mold temperature, otherwise the process keeps getting hotter. Install a cooling circuit. the quicker that you return the mold temperature to its set point, the quicker is your process. 2- Too much unheated nozzle. nozzle should be completely enclosed with nozzle heater, running 2-3 degrees below zone 3. Good luck

Thanks for such an awesome video in the real deal doing injection

Very interesting videos!

Altough I'll never will run such a machine, very very interresting. (from a French viewer)

its wonderful .

Really ..... a professionalpresentation

love the vid. one observation though. you can place the ejector rod with the mold closed because you have ejector return pins that stick out further than your ejectors (should). this is a safety precaution to not smash or destroy your ejectors if you eject forward and not have the bolted causing you to crush pins. so keep mold closed. a lot easier.

Well done brother

Thanks for the vid. One thing - leave a clamp on the op side stationary platen so the mold doesn’t bounce when you open the clamp. You can see if you need to adjust your hoist when you slowly loosen the bolt. Stay safe!

Most/all injection molds have a external bolt clamp that holds them together when not in use? Also going forward all electric toggle machines are normally faster, cheaper and a lot less messy. Curious as to why you need/use a "clean" room. Is this a customer requirement?

What temperature do you heat your aluminum mold? Also if the mold was steel would you need liquid coolant circulating through the mold to keep it cool enough?

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the video! One question: You said in previous videos that this is a clean room. What does that mean? Washing hands and wearing a bunny suit to not bring in any chips/abrasive dust from machining? Air filtration?

Cảm ơn vì video! Một câu hỏi: bạn nói trong những đoạn phim trước đây là một căn phòng sạch. Thế nghĩa là sao? Rửa tay và mặc một bộ đồ thỏ để không

Thank you so much for this video I learned a lot. I've always wondered is this process stinky? Like if I add an injection molding machine to my machine shop do I need to worry about my neighbors being bothered by the smell? or it stinking up the shop?

Like the compressed air ejection via the ejector pins. Could aid cooling pins and cut down on binding too. We ran an aluminium mold that was meant for pre production and ended up using it to make over a million parts. Think we re-bushed pins but the spec of the part stayed in tolerance. That tool had similar 30 degree slide pins. Think we sleeved them with a bush. Its a while ago. Haha. Very interesting. Thanks for sharing

Hola! que aleacion de aluminio usas para los moldes? es aluminio 7075?

I've been a mold changer for 12 years. If I did my job like this. I'd be fired. We definitely have it made at our facility.

good video, the problems are similar to 3D printing, the plastic needs a certain temp. to melt, but like solder it can become 'jelly' and not a hard set, settings dependent, so it takes some time to "iron out the kinks", like sticking to one side, not being fluid enough, etc. all part of the coarse, even some elements of design, like too thin a wall can have an effect on things, so only certain shapes are good for this "additive manufacturing" process; hence why a lot of processes exist, 3D plastic forming, injection moulding, casting, milling, drilling, turning, all are most suitable to only a few part designs.

I do it in a different way , disconnect Ejector and bar , then take the clamps off from moving platen ! open the mould while the tool still attached to the fix half , once moving platen open completely then remove the clamps on fix half !

One other question, do you not think cold water on the B half of the second mold would help in your cycle time ?

We use similar setups with those inexpensive winches for our 4th axis machines so we can lift the indexers off to one side when not used. They actually work very well given their low cost. What would be an approx cost to run 1000 similar parts like those? We have a product that will need to be injection molded at some point in the near future. .

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Hi. Thanks for showing the mold with moving parts. I've always wanted to know how it works. How to get glossy surfaces of the parts? What is the service life of an aluminum mold without moving parts?

one quick question,? no dryer for the abs? hope that is to ask

Invest in a 30-36" long chain with a hook on only one end, get rid of the strap! Strap has way too much give to "catch" the weight as it comes off the platen. Also release the mold from the moving platen and open the press before releasing from the hot side. Also note that the ejector pins will NEVER hit the cavity face with proper length return pins, that is what they are for, to return the ejector plate. Just some observations for now, 40+ years building and running injection molds here, have seen and done some wild "accidents" during those years!

how many tons is that machine? not weight, but like 60, 100? once my new house is built i plan to get one, and want to produce cases maybe 2 thirds the size of that.

Probably know but if you get a air pressure regulator on the air inlet port wright on the side of the mould, it will sometimes help greatly, it will limit the air volume by limiting the pressure but on ejection contiune suppling air volume. You've just got to start low and build up until it hits the sweet spot, you done even need a gauge if you plan to leave it attached to the tool. Jim🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

Fascinating Stuff. Being a 99 ton machine. Is that the clamp force? Im curious why such a high clamp force is needed? Is the injection pressure very high too? Ive only messed with those little hand injection molders...and they dont seem to require much force at all.

Very informative video

31:55 - Nope! Angle pins and wear plates are at different angles. Should be in a real mold. On purpose.

Are the waste parts at the beginning and waste plastic in the runners, flash and so on recycled? Do you grind them up and use it in future jobs? As I recently got a 3D printer, this is something I stareted to worry about, in order to reduce my environmental impact as much as possible.

Hallo, what type and make is this moulding machine?

Tooop

Looking forward to our cooperation

I kind of miss the molding industry, but the auto industry ruined my taste for it, would love to have to have a small consumer based shop of my own.

How you have all your fingers I'll never know.

Sir , compare to what we do , you guys mould in Stone Age era lol , but also very interesting tho ! wouldn't it be better to take backpressure off just to mould a 1st shot then before you send a Carriage back , you could get a 2nd stroke ready ?

Thats my old job...

You should be cooling that mold to about 120F, not heating it.

This guy is butchering some known plastic industry terms. Use FILL instead of SQUIRT, and AUGERS convey materials. Reciprocating SCREWS heat, blend, and meters a uniform fill to the mold. Also, the plastic held ahead of the screw is called the CUSHION and without a consistent cushion fill and part dimensions are compromised.

how big are you good sir? and yes I'm referring to the snake