You did a decent job. A few suggestions for you. First I would have run a piece of rubber expansion pipe in the vertical section (after the pee trap) which offers some room should the pipe move vertically for whatever reason. Next, your drain pipe is going to fill up with grey water to whatever height it is in your grey water tank because you entered the bottom of the tank with it. Not a huge deal, but something to think about. Third, you have no way of disconnecting your tank in case it requires servicing or replacing. You will need to cut off your pipe and re-glue it back together again. Fourth, the bigger your drain pipe at your electric drain valve, the easier it is for food particles to get out or at least not get stuck. Fifth, there is a lot of strain on the base of your drain at the tank. The weight of the drain valve, especially when going down bumpy roads will stress it even more and could cause it to fall off or crack over time. I would recommend finding a way to support that weight. Sixth, I would consider having metal protection on each side of the toggle switch so that it doesn’t get hit as you walk in or out or perhaps get caught in a belt loop or by something you are carrying in. Next, I would caution against using loomex (romex in the US) or any other type of solid wire as it tends to break. Stranded conductors are a better choice. Finally, I had the volume turned down while watching this, so you may have dealt with this issue, but I hope you angled the pipe down towards the grey water tank once outside of the van rather than having it fairly flat. Considering that your entry point into the grey water tank from your sink is at the bottom instead of the top (I understand why you did), the steeper the angle down your pipe goes from your first 90 below the van floor, the better off you would be because there would be less water in that pipe and less pooling should you be parked facing downhill. My apologies if I am wrong on any of my thoughts, but just shared them in the hopes that they are helpful... Enjoy the adventures!

Love this idea for the switch! Thanks for your videos. Building out a promaster and your knowledge is super helpful.

You make killer videos, I’m using a lot of your ideas on my build. Thank you man!

Perfectly done video! No fluff. Looking forward to doing this in the next couple weeks. Thanks so much!

Thanks man, this was super helpful!

Very informative! This was my first grey water set up video, hopefully mine goes as smoothly

Excellent videos .. clear ..concise and to the point .. keep it up

I have the auto reverse ball valve instead of the reverse polarity. When power is removed, it auto closes - but it actually doesn’t use power at all once closed, so I actually think it’s a much simpler setup. Just FYI!

nice!

love the remote drain feature, easier than I would have thought. So I'm wondering if larger food particles would get stuck over time in that smaller drain pipe though?

Music sounds like Snowman Attack Flash game!

Loving this set up. One quick question, do we purchase the On/On switch or On/Off/On switch. Sorry if I miss anything from the video.

Good setup! Not trying to be negative but the only problem I see is that due to the lower input pipe, you’ll only be able to use less than half your tank due to fluid dynamics. Your level will never go above the top of your input pipe since the system is not pressurized. You gave me some good ideas as to how to install mine! Thanks!

Great videos!! We’re you concerned about the nuts/bolts rubbing against tank and wearing a hole in it?

Great explanations and detail. Thanks! Can you tell us what you think the ideal tank size is? Is 5 gallons too much or too little in practical use? If more is better, how much more? I'm aiming at full-time use and thinking of a single 25L tank, with baffles to minimize sloshing. If that's overkill, can someone explain why? Thanks again.

increase your drain to 3/4 or 1" not 1/2" and use whirsbo waterpipe. (rent the tool from homedepot) - use abs glue on abs pipe and where you use your 90 after your p-trap, replace with a T and off the top of the T use a cheater vent. (cheater vent is a check valve airintake)

thanks for the lesson. I'm extrapolating this into two 10 gallon tanks. you haven't had any issue with the bolts sticking up rupturing the tank over time?

Sweet! Where did You vent it? I see the hose but where is the end tip?

Awesome video I'm thinking of using some of your ideas for this for these tanks. I'm having issues with your links it brings me to Amazon but just the home page that it no items are shown.

Love the build. Do you have a ballpark cost of the build, minus the cost of the vehicle?

Can I install this hot water heater in my Ram Promaster? I can get an inverter, but it seems that I might need a breaker box? I would have an on and off switch when I’m not taking a shower or I need to just wash my hair in the sink.

Fight club is in my top five all time

Does it matter which positive and negative for the valve align with the positive and negative from the battery? Or as long as the valve positives and negatives are criss-crossed on each end it's good?

I am moving out to Newport in a month. I am driving my ram pro-master out there. I am building it out but may need help with setting up the battery bank and electrical. Would you be willing to do a side job?

I’ve looked at a few of these gray tank videos. They all show the e-valve mounting on a straight extension from the tank. That creates a relatively long, unsupported lever. Would it be better to have some support for that lever or is it so light that no support make a difference? Also, why not just use a nipple to connect the valve directly to the tank?

Hi, is there a reason why you went for 2 grey water tanks instead of one?

Do you still like the electric valve? Would you have done anything differently?

I finally saw one! Was it Fight Club maybe? Dude smoking?

How do you clean the tank? There is no opening on the bottom.

From the way you connected the switch, i think the valve is getting power all the time, and the switch is only reversing it. one position is + - , the other is - + . is that correct? but this is a normally closed valve, no? it should remain closed if there is no power at all. would a simple on/off switch be enough? i mean give it power only when you want to drain.

What happened to all those garage doors?

Just Curious...why didn't you flip the tank and use the inlet at the top?

Will you always have a little water in your tank because the drain isn't at the very bottom of the tank? Could this potentially freeze?

How does it actually fill the tank when the input is on the bottom of the tank?

Your drain entry is so low in the tank, doesn’t that mean you;l only get a small amount of water into the tank before it backs up into the drain?

This is random but you look so much like this Austrailian actor Jacob Elordi if he was a bit older

DO NOT USE OUTDOORS!!!!!!!!! I purchased this valve and installed on water tank outdoors, above ground. It was exposed to rain and water splashed but never submerged. It failed with in a few months. Took it apart and found it rusted and water inside. It is rated IP65. I contacted USSolid and was told Quote "Hi, It is stated in the manual that the ball valve is IP65 and cannot be used outdoor. I'm afraid that the gears are rusted due to used outdoors. Looking forward to hearing from you, thank you. I will say before failure valve worked beautifully! It just can't be used outdoors Best, Yuan "

I don't understand why you have that fight club pic that pops up and goes away super fast. Please explain so i don't feel like i'm taking crazy pills lol

Take the plunge, buy a 120v welder!

you should really be using plus nuts to screw in. these screws are risky

Those screws you used to screw brackets into frame didn't look like they had ANY thread for about 3/4 to 1" from the head of the screw--- how are they not pulling out of the holes??? It looked as if they they didn't stop when you drove them in-- (you even spun the heads after they were up against the brackets-- when they should have been tigth if threads were engaged)--- nothing to keep them from sliding back out to the threaded portion--- I would hope you replaced those screws with shorter "all thread" screws (off camera).... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hcplf8Klnd_Lfac.htmlsi=s1m5yCHtqs9FDinK&t=338

Was that Hunter Biden you flashed on the screen?

my bad your the one making cash on movies no one said they need to be mechanically correct.

really the wast water hooked to bottom of tank. last time i checked drain water will not push the water up in tank. dum a drain valve is supposed to be at bottom of tank not 2 inches up from bottom. DUD you punt tank in wrong. waste water is at top

Dud your mechanical skills are not so smart. heads of bolts and that strapping will damage tank, whats point of using rust proof self drilling screw when you're drilling a metal Fram. ITS NOT THAT HARD TO USE A RIVNUT IN EXISTING HOLES OF VAN

My opinion this installation is poorly executed. 1, the tank is resting on the bolts head and will work through the plastic tank. 2, the solenoid valve is upside down, depending on the design the water pressure (water high) from the tank could open the plunger inside the valve. 3, the solenoid valve head is exposed to be damaged by branches or rocks.