Right ...because he has a fan.

From Cathy, the Real Gunsmith's Wife and also videographer: We have some in the shop on lathe and drill press. Doing so presents some issues in setup, as when we set up the shop 30 years ago we had no idea we'd be doing videos for publication 25 years down the road! ;) While the nice smaller space works well for him working it is not very conductive to filming. As I said, we have in the past and will probably do more in the future. Thanks for watching.

Thank you so much! We appreciate all of our viewers. God bless! Thanks for watching.

Most high quality rifles are machined so that the rings are properly in line with the action, but some are not. In addition, most high quality scopes can be leveled by removing the cap and placing a level on top of the bare turret, etc. I've done this many times with great success. To double check, you can hang plumb line from the ceiling and use it to align your scope reticle. Either way, Mr. Selby knows what he is talking about.

Thank you so much and thanks for watching.

I can verify that what he is saying about waking up the springs is correct. That is what makes him a professional. Swiss watch makers know the same thing as do torch wrench makers. Springs under tension should be untensioned when not in use or in the case of scope springs (turn up & down one rotation to wake them up) for lack of a better term. Most mechanics will understand this concept.

I don't lap. I align the rings correctly which eliminates the need to lap. My load work up proves my techniques work by the groups I shoot, in the 2's and 5's. Furthermore, many companies, if not all, void any warranties if lapping is done. Thanks for watching.

I don't use torque wrenches, by experience and knowing all screws must be tight. Thanks for watching.

New, out of the box and scope that needs adjustment will benefit from this practice. Thanks for watching.

A scope that has set for years needs the bias spring "woke" up for proper function to zero. Some may need this yearly if they aren't top of the line. Thanks for watching.

@@TheRealGunsmith Thanks for the reply and you're welcome. I've watched several of your videos. Your craftsmanship is amazing.

I have same question....not sure I understood what he mean

No, a turn in the direction of adjustment needed, then a turn back to where you need to be for zero. Thanks for watching.

Snugged up till I bore sight and make adjustment as needed, finalized by shooting, then tighten. Thanks for watching.

Yeah my now ex-wife use to say i was half a bubble off, and tried to fix me with a whack of a hammer.

@@tubeonline629 Thanks for the warning - I just locked all my hammers up!

Always bore sight. When a scope needs an adjustment. Thanks for watching.

Windage style are always an advantage to keep the reticle centered in scopes. I've not had a failure. Thanks for watching.

One full turn is and has always been 360°. Thanks for watching.

And that is the problem when mounting a scope for someone who is not there. I’ve mounted many scopes for people but never without them there with me to get the ideal eye relief. I mount a rifle one way and there is a distinct possibility you will mount it different causing a slight difference in the sweet spot for the eye relief. But if he has some magical way I’m all ears, but I’m guessing he doesn’t.

Scopes of 4" eye relief dictate the scope be mounted 1" shorter than the length of pull, so, for instance, a 13 1/2" LOP equals 12 1/2" from heel of butt. Obviously it varies with eye relief. I mount scopes on rifles all of the time for clients, when I build rifles, and they aren't here. I follow this and so far, no issues. Thanks for watching.

@@TheRealGunsmith That doesn’t account for those who push their head further forward on the stock or those who are further back on the stock. I much prefer to set the scope to where the shooter naturally places their cheek. I find too many shooters will hunt for the perfect position for their cheek compression vs. moving the scope to accommodate where they naturally aka consistently land.

@@danel5611 LMAO There is always ONE...................................🤣

Just hand tight, to feel, and never had an issue. Thanks for watching.

As a rule, I set a Leupold scope 1" shorter than the trigger pull. Some scopes, because of build, will need a bit different relief. Thanks for watching.

100 yards. Thanks for watching.

Years and years of experience. I know the eye relief of scope and this is set according to trigger length minus a system that I found worked over 50 years ago, and it works correctly every time. Thanks for watching.

Done correctly, they are not needed. Thanks for watching.

I don't use torque wrenches. Tried them at times, don't like them. Go by feel and experience. See what Brownell's or Midway USA sell, they'd be sure to have top quality. Thanks for watching.

One nice feature about that system is the adjustable rear windage. I have used them a couple of times when a rifle did not have perfectly true scope base holes. Instead of having to fix all that, just mount the bases and tweak the rear windage adjustment. .

I understand the concept but I have never had such a problem myself, modern scopes have plenty of adjustment! Mid to higher end rifles should never have this issue!

@@Duhaubetahiks agreed, but during the supply chain issues I have seen some QC issues from even reputable companies. Hopefully we are past that now.

@Denny Baum...Thank you, your reply is what I would have said.

The sides of the ring base should be parallel with the bore. Using one leg of the square against the side of the base, turn the ring until the wrench flat and face of the ring are square with the base line. The turn-in rings for this style can also be rotated with a wrench. 1" scope rings may have 1/2" flats while the 30mm rings use a 5/8" wrench. Wrenches are handy if you don't have a dowel to turn the front base or with double dovetail sets which you turn in the rear base the same way.

You didn't listen. I explained that Leupold, top manufacturers of top scopes, recommends this practice to wake up the spring for proper adjustment. And I sure as hell didn't say to turn it in and out repeatedly to wear out the adjustment! Thanks for watching.

@@TheRealGunsmith What I was getting at, the point I was trying to make, I’d that the term “waking up” a spring has no meaning at all in the context of what I can physically relate to. I’m sure you are right in what you are saying, and I did not mean to mis-state what you were trying to say. But waking up a spring means nothing to a majority of viewers here. A spring, mounted in its intended place, possesses its manufactured specification on tension from the time it was mounted in the scope. I do not understand the meaning of “waking up” when it comes to a spring. I do understand that the mechanism may have what we call “lash” in which there is no movement when reversing the rotation of a screw driven adjustment. Is that what you are referring to?

@@TheRealGunsmith What I was getting at, the point I was trying to make, is that the term “waking up” a spring has no meaning at all in the context of what I can physically relate to. I’m sure you are right in what you are saying, and I did not mean to mis-state what you were trying to say. But waking up a spring means nothing to a majority of viewers here. A spring, mounted in its intended place, possesses its manufactured specification on tension from the time it was mounted in the scope. I do not understand the meaning of “waking up” when it comes to a spring. I do understand that the mechanism may have what we call “lash” in which there is temporarily no movement when reversing the rotation of a screw driven adjustment. Is that what you are referring to?

LMAO Ohhhhhh boy............................

You can also just put the scope against a mirror and align the reticle with its shadow.

@@boredboiseboy exactly right. That is known as optically zeroed.