I used a trigger switch upper valve. Had a old brass trigger on a weed sprayer. So I lengthen top hose to the handle the down to the volume valve down below, the trigger turns off and on quickly. I used a cable system on the wheels. I used sealed bearing like on the skateboards cost low enough. Water tank a racing fuel jug up side down work for me. Hudson sawmill have a nice locking dog system. My was used, also. Maintenance maintenance maintenance!!!

I have a H F sawmill and your drip tube for the blade has a set bolt on the side. Loosen the bolt , move it in or out and tighten the bolt and done!

you can put in a rubber grommet in for for the water tube on both sides that will make the tube in place

Would be nice to see log loading and your support setup in detail, good job.

A very good video...thanks for posting 🇨🇦

Nice I've got one need to get it set up

Good job on the review. Very helpful.

Just walking home from work, and catching up on the video

Great review. Thank you!

A wise person once taught me to pay attention to those who use the word “actually” too often. They explained that the overuse of “actually” shows the speaker is a liar and has subconsciously gotten into the habit of using this word to try to convince the listener that "this time" they are finally telling the truth. My mentor said I should be aware of the use of this word, and if it shows up three times or more in a conversation I should keep in mind that the speaker is probably a liar. "Actually" count for this video = 26.

troy while im listening im gonna give my 2 cents for what its wourth ...righyt now the hf sawmill is 2400.oo and the woodland mills comparible sawmill is the hm122 for 2500.oo.....only 100.00 more ...woodlandmills has great customer service harbor freight has no customer service....the cariage for the woodlandmills is much better...but im still happy with my harbor freight....the clamp do suck for lockin the sawmill from raising up and down ,,,i dont even use mine any more...i just grab the handle an keep it from rotating while pushing....your spot on with the water delivery but on mine where the coper tubing goes threw the frame there is a bolt on the side of the post that you didnt video for us that tightens don onto the coper tubing to prevent it from moving around (atleast there is on mine) but still that tubing needs to be longer so it can be bent to point down to the blade so you can use a lower rate of water with out it over shooting the blade.....i suspect the blade your using to cut the cedar with that it has been sharpened afew times and has lost its tooth set or its the wrong hook for soft woods ...i use a 10 degree tooth'.....the sawdust build up on the wheels is easy to prevent with out the sawdust sweeps ...you can lightly wipe down the rails and wheels with automatic transmission fluid every other log or if you want to be enviromentally friendly yu can spray it with spam...its the pitch in the sawdust that makes it stick.....now to the log clamp....i do not tighten any of those adjustable screws ...i set it to the hight i wand and give the base a good wack ...the point that goes into the log could be a little sharper is my beef... happy sawing

Happy birthday, Melanie 🎉🎁🎉

If your running a commercial operation your not going to have one of those mills but every novice person should start out with those and any others would be a dream

Very well explain with open mind❤❤ do you have a video of the mill in operation?

Great video ! Have you ever used a green line laser module as an alignment tool ?

Lots of good info

I just ordered a Woodland mill HM126 today.

I've owner the HF sawmill for a couple years now. Here's my running list of woulda-coulda-shoulda Cons: 1. The rail sections are not exactly the same profile. They had to be shimmed to prevent an uneven bump. To make sure you have a planar set of rails, you'll need a long straight edge. However when the rails are shimmed, this brings the bunks out of plane. Only solution is long solid rails. 2. The clamps are wonky. The bolt with the yoke on the end doing the clamping is weak. Weld on a couple of nuts and T-handles for certain clamping. 3. Two-post only. Only a pair of bolts at the base of each upright determine the position (perpendicularity) of the gantry. You can tighten the bolts/nuts to where the tubing deforms, but there's still nothing to keep the head from slipping. With the bolts loose, the gantry can tip 5-7 degree. The design also makes the gantry very flexible side-to-side. Cutting poplar, cedar and pine/spruce I didn't really have any issues. But on fresh red oak and maple (tougher) I get some waviness right after initial penetration. However I've only run Cook's blades so far. Going to try Woodmizer blades soon. 4. Both blade guides are fixed. Would be nice if the upstream guide was adjustable. 5. The screw driving the cable tensioner is standard thread. Should be an Acme thread. A standard thread will wear under the load of the saw head. 6. Dust exit cute clogs easily, especially when using water bottle. 7. Dust deposits heavily on the downstream-side rail and leading wheel, which can take the gantry out of plane if heavy enough. 8. Water valve is very flimsy & wonky low quality. Also should be 2 valves -- one for on/off and another set at your desired flow rate. 9. Water bottle is too small. 10. Clamp heads are pointed. A blunt head would not mark/crack the wood as much. Clamp handles are cranks. A slip T-handle would be better where the T would typically slide down out of the way. 11. There is something up with the interface between the adjustable gantry uprights and the saw head. The upper left end and lower right end of the interface has a stack of 4-5 washers to true up the mate. 12. No lift point or lift hooks. You will very likely take the saw head out of plane if you lift using the top crossbar. 13. Nuts and bolts are serrated. So anyplace you cinch up a fastener, the paint chips and is prone to rust. Should be washers, lock washers or nyloc nuts. 14. The provided manual is a joke. I use HM122/126 manuals for technical information. 15. No hex head or socket wrench hole on the tension handle for tensioning the blade. I drilled a hole in the t-handle and welded a 3/4" bolt.

thanks for info

I own the hm122 woodland mills it Is a beautiful piece of equipment I'm from Canada

Very helpful video. Happy Birthday to Melanie.

Great video. Couldnt you mount brushes that will clean the wheel as well as the track that will automatically clean as you roll?

How long of logs can you mill on it?

How hard would it be to weld scrapers for the wheels and track. Instead of plane the 4x4 for extension why didn't you just make 2 inch wide notch to drop the steel down

It does cut some nice slabs...thanks for the pros & cons... Happy Birthday to Melanie 🥳🥳

Good!

Interesting to ask if Harbor Freight did, on purpose, design its sawmill track rails with non-standard dimensions steel angle irons. While it DOES look like that, it may not be actually the case, since their mills are probably manufactured in China, they may simply have picked something that is standard and easily available in China, but NOT in America. I DON'T know for sure, but at least, that is a possible alternative explanation.

Install a small stiff wire brush over every roller so it cleans while you are moving the saw head. Just a thought.

aw so cool to learn about the sawmill. Happy Birthday to Melanie !!

thanks

Liked the video,,,,just wondering,,,did u have an trouble changing the belt,,,,I know I did,,,the replacement belt u get isn't the right size,,,,

troy if you want we can do a zoom call and go over the sawmill stuff that way I could show you afew things easier ..up to you

Happy birthday Melanie!!! We want to see more of you...

Just walking home from work catching up on the video

I'm really liking that saw. When cutting wet logs do you really need the additional water? I wouldn't think so.

IT APPEARS TO ME THAT IF YOU ARE AN COMPETENT MECHANIC WITH AN GOOD EXPERIMENTER ABILITIES THAT EVEN THESE CONS ARE EASILY OVERCOME! LOL , EVERYTHING I HAVE EVER OWNED, I HAVE DONE SOMETHING TO IT TO SUIT MY NEEDS!

Good

Just add a zip ties to your water feed tube one on each side of the nozzle

Happy Birthday Melanie. I just found out. All Thumbs Up Every Time ! #90 Sorry I'm late but I took a road trip to a Hot Springs in Nevada. 600+ miles round trip.

Are the boys metric, if so then the steel is probably a metrical size Sewell.

I checked harbor freight sawmill 2400 Woodland 2400

happy birth mel

As far as the rollers go with being clogged. Couldnt you just get some cheap wire brushes and mount them over the rollers so while your moving it, the brush keeps them clean?

Bought my rangeroad rr5026a today 3300 dollars 450 dollars for extra track 15 hp motor

Length ?

Not cutting dull blade tearing The wood out

By the time you spend the cost and time to upgrade wouldn't it be better to get a better mill.

and cant wait to get that saw dust flying

Why don't you mill up enough wood to in close it around the saw mill , or at least 3 walls , door on one end , 👍👍👍👍 nice

As for the dog i am going to order a cam dog from wood land

bigger moter will help keep wood strom bestring i sure it from the blade boging down goos at lest 13 hp or beteer 23 hp power moter and if they lost sap in the wood try some pine saw clean hole small bottle to thing it a gal of water and some god old dawn dish soap ever nother mills tell u to do that

can all way up grd and mod nice dog to the mill i all look at down work me mod dam thing till it dose

Troy, we're old men now you have a good life ,you don't have to try so hard

go buy a couple cheap wire brushes and attatch them to the top portion where the wheels go so as to self clean as it rolls -never deal with them again !

About what price was your saw mill? Did you ever figure out what the fibers were from the cedar cut?

cut a plastic bottle and place it over the carage wheels to keep shit out.

Take the outside, bark off before you cut it

You forgot to mention, it doesn't come with a rolling frame, in fact, they don't even sell a rolling frame with a tow bar for it

the up and down part for the mill wair out becouse they just used junk metal not like it going to brake in a day but depending on how many log u do will depend on how many year it last and better to do it bye hand just becouse it more ackit so beter cut rite ware u need it

Quit using water or you blade when you are cutting Seder

Resale is bad bad

Not trying to be a smart alleck or anything just curious

That rooster is annoying. I have a neighbor who killed his for crowing soon much.

Talks to much

i have sent you an email let me know when your ready