Rubber bushings are actually part of the suspension design and are there for a purpose.There is a reason they don't come standard even though poly bushings are probably cheaper to make. For road driven restored cars I think they are preferable to the poly joints.

Even if I went out with my wife for some burgers or ice cream, I still want an upgraded suspension.

Nice video guys! Thanks for the mention of my web page. I find the solid A arm bushings are not that harsh. Herb Adams states in his book RACE CAR ENGINEERING, that it's about a 5% increase in harshenss. The big improvement is no deflection when you corner hard. Most 3/4 ton pickups have solid A arm bushings for comparison. I also like solid subframe to unibody mounts. Stiffer suspension without improving the subframe mounts can result in the unibody moving too much relative to the subframe. It can cause the gas pedal to move under your foot when you hit a bump, the engine and sub are moving relative to the body. This is due to loading several times higher than the factory tuned the car for. The original tire for a Camaro was only a 7:35 X 14 on a 5" wide rim with 4.5" of tread! High performance Tubular upper Arms "should" have the upper ball joint moved rearwards so you can set caster at 5 to 5.5 degrees positive. This makes the car corner better and track straighter on the road. I have no way to know if these arms do that but most do. Moving the upper ball joint rearward moves the tire rearward which may cause it to hit the splash panel on sharp turns. Some A arm sets move the lower ball joint forward in addition to the upper rearward. This keeps the wheel centered in the wheelwell.

Thank you guys for the video, i'm doing a ground up rebuild on a 1976 camaro I have been working on it for over a year now and finally I am back at re-assembly and today I will be doing shocks ( KYB gas ) but after seeing what you said about the QA1's I think I might be buying those. I kept the OEM control arms got them blasted repainted and pushed in Prothane Polys, OEM spindles were in great condition and used Eidbach 1' inch drop springs Willwood duel piston and drilled and slotted rotors.

Great info. Remember to keep the stock A-arms. If they have a part number somene doing a factory show car restore will want them or parts off them. One mans trash is another man's show car.

Super - you guys are the best!

Awesome info gents!...I know now to go with the stock A-arms on my 82 Cutlass Supreme Brougham although the tubulars look awesome I'm all about a quiet and soft ride like those cars came with!...so again thanks guys!...

You guys do realize gas shocks are hydraulic shocks with nitrogen gas to keep the oil from foaming.

Another great video with really good info. Keep up the awesome work guys.

Great video guys, I have a '69 Camaro that I want to redo the suspension on and update to a more pro touring feel and level of performance. That and convert to disc brakes too. You've brought up many interesting points that I hadn't considered and to be honest, with parts so integral to safety and being as expensive as they are, it seems like a daunting process to say the least. The analytics of it all that you spelled out will help great deal when I do raise the funds to do this eventually.

Thank you for sharing this information. I am in the process of building one vehicle and considering building another.

I just installed UMI tubular control arms and Aldan Coilovers and I installed the coilovers with the nut 1 inch from the bottom and I could barely get my floor jack out and its a low profile jack. I had to go back in and raise the nut 1 inch and it raised the car about 2 inches.

i subbed you guys are the best ive seen i hope yall keep it up

The reason the factory used low caster and positive camber is part of the way they made it handle so that the average driver wouldn't wreck the car in a turn. Stock cars would understeer and "Push" through the corners, giving an uneasy feeling so that the driver would slow down in the turn. If it handled really well with good angles and springs, shocks, sway bar, etc, then unexperienced drivers might go into the corners too fast because it feels good and the car would oversteer and the rear end might come around and wreck the car.

This helped some.

Hi Guys. Im restoring a 70 lemans convertible , frame up and plan on rebuilding the rolling chassis complete before reinstalling the body. One question I have is what spring compressor can I use to complete the front suspension as I wont have the car weight to jack the lower control arm to compress the new spring. I was planning on tubular control arms but now after watching your video,Im rethinking that as I might not want the tubular?? Its just going to be ran around town as a weekend hot rod and not raced but I do want a nice tight and quite steering ? Thabks for any insight on a good tool that I can use to accomplish control arm and new spring install. Thanks again. Great videos,Im a subscriber.

I’m trying to install upper control arm on my 72 Chevelle but on driver side the steering is in the way to take stock upper control arm

Factory Castor was lower because they used bias ply tires and those tires flexed more (putting the contact patch further behind the steering axis) and thus had more built in castoring. Now everyone uses radials we should add castor to the factory settings. As you correctly stated you add more for power steering cars, less for manual steering. Most alignment shops just use factory specs and will set it poorly - leaving your car wandering all over the road.

How do feel about ridetech front suspension vs stock?

Is there tubular A frame mark up for 1963 Pontiac Lemans, my lower is single arm which is easily found. Can you help me on source makes specialized A frame for complete change over?

Why dont u use Qa1 2 inch drop coil over? You could adjust ride height and also use 2 inch drop spindles ıf needed. Also adjust for compression and rebound.

3:13 content starts here.

Does the stiffness of the control arm bushings have any bearing on the amount of tow-in used?

Nice video. I just subscribed. I ran into an issue with my 69 Chevelle tubular control arms that I just purchased. The original lower control arm 1/2" bolts would not insert into the inner bushing sleeves. The outer diameter of the inner sleeve is the same as the original GM but the inner sleeve diameter is about 1/8" less. It's a thicker inner sleeve therefore I ended up putting a thinner 7/16" 3.5" grade 8 bolt into the lower control arm. A problem occurred when I started torquing the lower control arm bolt. Chevrolet specs 80 lbs torque for the lower control arm fastener. That is the correct torque for a grade 8 1/2" bolt but way too much for a 7/16" grade 8 bolt. I could replace the 7/16" bolt that I torque to 80 lbs (I am sure it is damage) with a new 7/16 grade 8 and torque to 50lbs. Going to that approach makes me a bit nervous. Bought thru an eBay distributor, MBM DBK6472 Disc Brake Conversion Kit.

Anything for 2ng gen fbody ?

Aftermarket tubular control arms are slightly longer than stock and will introduce more caster...your alignment shop will let you know that caster is off from stock...if your racing around cones that is cool....it will not cause high tire wear...I wish you would have mentioned more about the potential geometry differences with tubular arms vs stock.

I have a 3" lift on my tacoma w/ stock upper control arms, will a Uniball Design (ex: Total Chaos) fix the Positive Camber on my truck as compared to adjustable control arms (ex: SPC) ?

I just want my 67 chevelle to be a little more stuff and not lean so much in the curves . But I want it to ride nice . Can I just add coil overs with the original upper and lower cost trim arms ?? And maybe a heavier sway bar ??

Good video! Do you wonder if the same person gives you the "thumbs down" on all your videos? They could at least say "I don't like this video because..."

Hi Guys, Really Great video (just enough to get me in trouble). How far are you from E. Tn?. I have a project I would like to consult with you on (I will gladly pay you). I recently got a like new 1970 Impala. It has the original shiny gold paint, original black vinyl top, and 30K actual non rolled over miles. All #'s matching The car is a 4 door sedan. It is a fairly low optioned car (pwr steering, joy stick drivers side mirror, cloth interior). Currently no A/C, manual drum brakes, 10 bolt corporate rear, plain jane, mint, low mile car. I am looking to make it into a car that never existed. A 1970 Impala SS. I do not know what the best suspension was back then. I think they had the F41. I know they did make a Police Package. I do not think they called it a 9C1 back then (I think it was called a 6BC back in the day, but I am not sure). I have spoken to Mike at Eaton Detroit Spring. He suggested a nice progressive set of rear springs and a HD set of front ones (he gave me the part numbers). I want a recommendation for quality shocks, sway bars, trailing arms, etc... The car is a small block 350 - 2 barrel. I had the TH350 trans completely gone through and redone including all the updates with a Fairbanks shift improver kit as there were the usual pink spots on the garage floor from the speedo cable and dried up pan gasket. I ordered a blue printed set of dual exhaust, including the resonators from Waldrons (the company that does the exhaust work for Jay Lenos Garage). I actually have a like new Factory GM, Winters Foundry, Snowflake Aluminum LT-1 intake that will make the car look like a great day two car. I will add a Holley 600 with vacuum secondary's, GM dual snorkel air cleaner and probably add a set of LT1 finned valve covers. I want to retain the original ride height. Please reach out to me. Down the line, I also may want to add a 1969 Impala Chevrolet ratchet shifter console, a set of original Strato Buckets and a posi unit. I hope to hear from you. Thank you.

Can we know more about that 64 le mans? maybe some pictures?

The bushing material in tubular stuff is Delron and should be considered a solid bushing almost metal. Will translate every bump and roughness in the road vary much like heim joint. This no joke it can be miserable. if you want to drive this car on the street regularly go with polyurethane. Still vary stiff compared to the stock marshmallow bushings.. Just an FYI,

hello, I am almost an everyday driver in my 1977 C10, now with 5.3, and I have air bags front and rear, and after watching your video about tubular arms upper and lower. I purchased both from CPP and after listening to you, it might be better if I just change to OEM A-ARMS, after listening to you about the ride effect, as I thought I would be making my front end more secure, with the bags, and yes a little better handling, but I like a smooth ride, and from what you are saying (with low profile tires) I am going to feel the road even more,, and I am not a speed demon, or racer, I am just driving normal.... so can you explain more, as I wish I knew someone with a truck with tubular arms - because looking at them in the BOX they look MEAN,, HELP

And if i buy qa1 control arms and want too youse a 15” wheel? On front? Should clear ? Lower control arm with the wheel?

I'm doing an air suspension truck.. what kind of control arms would you recommend other than the expensive mmw, stone fab, or even ride tech control arms that are way out of budget

With the stiffer setup, I recommend aluminum subframe bushings. Did wonders on my 69 Camaro.

It sure would be helpful if you indicate forward and aft on your castor explanation.

very god ! Brazil rio city .

Deep spring pockets would alter the geometry a tad, but offset spindles wouldn't ..right?

Having the same problems with my control arm bolts today! UGH!

I tried tubulars I lost about 3/4 of a second in the quarter mile I'm back to stocks running low 7s now so there you go it's the weight diffrence

What sized tires are on that car, specifically aspect ratio? One Stop Shopping is best so you get a matched system that works, and not a dogs breakfast you don't want to be driving

If I run them with manual sterring what will the outcome be ??

Is there a manufacturer that makes oem replica a-arms in the USA?

not enough caster and cant adjust chamber

My mulet does little under 5s in the quarter mile running stocks

what if you just installed the UPPER TUBULAR "A" ARMS ONLY....will it possibly lower the vehicle?

Well, after hearing all this with my 68 RS/SS Camaro with factory disks I am getting ready to restore , I will use my stock A frames with new polygraph bushings and all new front end parts, stock front end springs plus a stock ride height front tire with a bigger sway bar & poly bar kits as I want to drive this car and don't want to worry about worrying about replacement parts down the road ( will this work with that ? ) plus I hate lowered cars as they just don't cut it with me.

Am going to draw a paper caster and cander and on my car

These tubular a arms crack me up. Aside from some different reinforcement, the Hotchkiss ones are the same as the Amazon Chineseium one's. Identical. Write down to the same shit ball joints and spacers

This is tommy I have a 1968 chevelle not 67 .

Already ask them and they don’t know they just make that kit for 1990 454 ss 😩

I understand not making a car to low. But no car should be built with consideration to it going on a trailer. An exception for 100% race cars

Terrible welding on those new tubular parts ....!

What a lot of guys don't realize, is that they overbuild the crap out of their cars.

As a long time road racer all of those stiffer bushes will cause all sorts of grief. They will crack the pickup points and ride like crap and transmit all sorts of noise. For the road OEM rubber bushing are the only way to go. Many of those aftermarket wishbones also screw up the geometry as they have little or no compliance. Even for a racecar this happen so everything must be dummied up and checked through the full supension travel. Dropped spindles IF made correctly are actually better but many are not. They are supposed to be a forged steel part. Clean them then cracktest them before even checking them on the car. I have seen one broken! That stock stub you had is junk as you pointed out as the bearing spinning on it will A. leave the hub loose on the stub and B. be a major stress riser for the steel. Shocks are a drama as well. Many gas shocks on an older car binds them up and on occasion sieze as well. Those QA1s are generally very good. An oil shock on a road car is usually ok, though stiffer springs may need better shocks

Complete over exaggerations one everything. Any so called firmness from the new urethane bushing is not felt because of the changes in geometry.

Jesus Christ A car that handles Is Not going to drive like a Rolls-Royce don’t have to spend an hour talking about it

Those kmjs look likw harbor freight china specials! They are way too inexpensive, id spring for global, Detroit speed or hotchkis. Not china specials

the problem with those control arms is you will never be able to adjust chamber not a good set of control arms. unfortunately you have to spend the money for global west. thats what i am doing now.

great info but too much chatter

I can put it in 69 firebird

So if i pik up a 125 pound gal one night.....then a week later i picking up a 320 pounder....i need to change my springs each time i swap dates🤔🤔🤔 gimme a break🤡🤡😆

Them upper and lower a frames way overpriced

NPD... Overpriced........

Witch way is front on castor ? LOL