The 30g silicone insulated wire from Hobby King is wonderfully soft and flexible for this sort of thing (go to workbench->wire & leads and then filter for 30 gauge, there are lots of colors and lengths)

It’s so cool watching this project progress, my imagination just flares with a cyberpunk future.

KZfaq didn't give me a notification but this was in my recommended feed uploaded 1 minute ago.

I think if you used a resin 3d printer, your parts will be far more accurate. Great Project!

Great work, Will! The movement looks very tight, and I love the efficient design. Inspirational stuff!

This video series got recommended to me by KZfaq because I have been designing a steampunk character with a lot of biometric parts. I am not any kind of engineer or technichian, I only get half the jargon, but seeing something like a hand being built and carefully tweaked to act so organically is so crazy and sci-fi to my little writer/illustrator brain! I love your work so much, and just know that you hold the fascination of a very confused yet highly curious mind with your careful explanations and video documentation 💛

You're work is amazing Will, I see great potential in this project. In other news, thank you for releasing your animatronic eye mechanism. For a school project I developed an eye tracking headset and your rig was perfect for demo-ing it.

The realization was awesome. The development of the idea really close to real one and to the reality motions.

man keep doing what your doing m8 this shit is bloody great! This is like the first marble machine. I'm really looking forward for what it's going to be like in the future!

This is brilliant. Keep working on it Will.

Replacing the servo encoder with your own blew my mind - I never would have thought of doing that!

Another thing you might consider is either partnering with someone who knows molding and casting or learning to do it yourself. You can get much stronger parts from casting solid pieces out of production resins like the TASK series from Smooth On. Also, good plan with moving the servo resistors!

Great job, keep it up! Are you designing this as an option for prosthetics or as industrial manipulation?

I would recommend using “Blu” resin or anything made by the same company. It is pretty expensive ($50 for a bottle) but it is the strongest resin for Sla printing. I have tried using normal resin for mechanical type prints and the prints come out very brittle and snap very easily

That is amazing!

Keep doing what you are doing. You'll eventually get there.

I think it might be worth looking up making custom flexible pcb to replace the wires coming from the finger pots to make it more compact (the PCB is less than a quarter of a mm, good place to get some made would be PCBWay for instance). Bearings might also be overkill for this application, bushings or solid bearings might be better suited and more compact. Barnaby Dixon uses a mechanism consisting of a cable inside a spring with silicon sleeve to great effect in his hand puppets, might also be worth checking out for another way to deliver control from an actuator to an end effecter.

wow, ive been following the progress of your project and it is really getting a lot more refined. the cable and pulleys should give a pretty good grip strength

It's all about the pulleys! 🤘 ... also I just love the relocated trim pot

Hey Will, for the pot cables try some wire-wrap wires, they're extra thin, usually 32awg, and are thined

Like your work very detailed! Good work@

Great improvements..its amazing how it moved..like old horror movies where only cut hand will move around.. Btw have you tried PETG? It's easy as PLA to print but is very string and slides more easily without stickiness.

estoy desarrollando este proyecto, muchas gracias Will por compartir todo tu desarrollo y hacerlo open source, por supuesto hay muchas mejoras en las que pienso que pueden ser realizadas por mi para este proyecto, ahora mismo no cuento con impresora de resina e imprimir piezas tan pequeñas en una impresora FDM me está costando mucho trabajo, me veo obligadoa tener que escalar algunas piezas y hacer modificaciones para poder tener resultados deseados. Sin embargo te felicito, aunque ya ha pasado tiempo que no subes videos ni actualizaciones, te sigo en patreon.

nice video .. will see you next year

I wish I was made of ABS. Maybe then I wouldn't injure myself spontaneously doing the worm in sync w/ your finger and yelling I love you Will Cogley

For the potentiometer wiring, also look into 3-conductor cables for things like stereo headphone connections (aka L+R+ground/shield). You might be able to find some *really* compact options off-shelf.

I knew you was working on a full scale cyborg. I want one!

Nice! I personally own a resin printer (Elegoo Mars) and since the beginning of this project I was like, it would be way more precise hahaha, maybe a bit faster to print too and surely way smoother at the friction points, as a watchmaker I printed few parts for watches with great accuracy. Awesome videos!

for the positional sensor wires, use a thin gauge silicone coated wire. Not only is the sleeving higher in heat resistance, but it bends very well, and normally has good durability.

sombody gift thise men a sla 3dprinter! Great work! keep it up!

I would definitely look into ribbon cable for your potentiometer wiring. Usually can get much thinner wires, and is scalable to how many wires you actually need. Although you will eventually run into the issue of how to route the wires in a moving object regardless of what you end up using.

I've got a Saturn on the way, going to use it to make some of your projects when it gets here!

Dude you realise that if this catches on you're probably going to make a sizeable impact on humanity.

Awesome!

exquisite!

Thank you for telling me what the ptfe tubes are called! I have been searching for that for a while now

Impressive stuff. I noticed you're using ball bearings for the pivots, have you thought about using polymer bushings (something like those made by Igus) in their place? I'm coming at it from a packaging view point - polymer bushings are much smaller than their equivalent ball bearings. Just a thought.

In your final design when you have the servo's for all the tendon wires in the forearm you could switch to a Two servo design and have all the tendon wires in an electronic clamp and only clamp on when you want to move each digit. Im not even a robotics hobbyist but it seems like it could reduce weight and provide more space for wrist and forearm servos.

I didn't understand any of this but I really enjoyed it

I think I've made this comment before, but i am continually impressed by your inventiveness.

Woooohoooo a full finger

You're gonna love SLA printing. Precision components are so much easier, with far less post-processing, and they're stronger than you might think.

This is a cool project, I like the idea of moving the potentiometers out to the joints. FYI ABS fumes are absolutely toxic, please avoid breathing them. Additionally, SLA printers have their own toxic handling issues (part cleaning with alcohol is imperative).

Very good design. You should try to use 28 or 30 gauge magnet wire bundled together for the control wire. You will most likely not drop enough voltage through them since your control system is very close to the sensor.

Next Step: Aluminium pieces ? With a mini Lathe and Milling machine like Proxon PF230 you could be able to make your pieces fast... Concerning servo motors, you could consider using linear motion system... Great work and realization!

This is all very big brain.

Hi, amazing job Will! can you tell what is the name of the tool that you used here: 4:27?

Would it be possible to use earphone wires as they are very thin but strong enough for some bends?

Maybe an interesting idea for minimizing the number of wires running through the fingers; Most, if not every, servo's have the potentiometer directly connected to the power lines. If you make sure that all servo's for one finger share the same power supply, you can connect the potentiometers in the finger together, with only the control wire having to be separate. That would reduce the number of wires lower in the finger from 9 to 5, Make sure to check if the potentiometers are connected directly to power before doing this!

just looking at what you are doing, you could possibly reduce control down to 3 servos. One circular looped wire for left right lateral movement, one looped wire for up down of the first joint, then the last looped wire to control the curling and straightening of the last two joints.

Hey man love your videos about this project, i was wondering if i can use some of your ideas for a personal project of mine

Can somebody please sponsor him with a resin printer? I've git all my limbs, but this is really cool.

7:08, when ABS is melted it releases styrene in the fumes, styrene is a suspected carcinogen, so that would make sense why it would give you a headache

An sla printer is definitely the way to go. Your fdm printed parts, however, do look very good. I could never achieve that accuracy lol

Real deal terminator finger letsgo!

Next big step for your bionic hand should be compliant joints. that would be a quantum jump from robotic, rigid hand to a much more human-like hand.

Hi, I'm working on getting a mechatronic hand to test how well one could be controlled with Valve's knuckles controllers and their finger tracking. Are you planning to add license (e.g. MIT) to the github repo? Regarding SLA printers, there seem to be some pretty good ones in the ~$500 range as well, and resin compability charts pretty well documented by the 3d printing community. Bit of a mess with the resin cleanup and curing, but amazing details possible.

Your small parts look really clean and tidy. What size hotels are you using for them?

You can go thinner on the line if you use kevlar line. Also, I use petg for most of my prints, it's much better than abs and pla

Have you considered ribbon cables? They can lay flat against the top of the fingers, and instead of having a bunch of loose wires you could have groups of 3 split off at each joint and have a single solid ribbon at the bottom end.

Watch out the finger is trying to escape!

what about using headphone wires, they are really thin and flexible

Have you thought about making the pinky and third finger (next to pinky) not as complex? I typically use my 1st and 2nd finger in combination with my thumb where dexterity is required. But I rarely use my other fingers for such movement.

Have you considered printing in PETG filament? If you are thinking of moving to ABS, PETG offers much better ease of use while mainting good mechanical properties :) What printer are you using btw?

Could you use the cable itself as a drain or ground to have fewer cables running to each finger?

You should check out "Wire wrapping" wire. It is thin AWG 30 Wire, which is very bendable.

With abs you can glue it such that is is welded together for strength

What about fine dynema rope? I have some that's about 1mm thick with a brake weight of 270kg. If you can find twisted instead of woven you might be able to use a strand of that, woven might work too, just harder to seperate.

Good background music.

If you are planning on getting resin printer then I would recommend the elegoo mars. Very nice printer for about ~$300 and has a large community around it if you have any problems.

I think SLA printing is the way to go. But if ABS fumes are an issue for you, resin is also going to be a problem. Elegoo and eSun make water washable resins that give off less odor, but you really should find a well ventilated space to print.

I think a more vascular inspired cable control setup would do you well

Have you tried fioptic cable? It is as then as you can get with the fastest response time as well.

Try magnet wire, because it doesn't have the rubberized coating but is insulated with an enamel. So 32 gauge magnet wire is only about 0.008" or 0.2mm in total diameter.

0:40 superglued cut on finger :P

Question: Isn't the sensor built into the servo supposed to also help the servo determine the direction of rotation? If you move that further down the linkage wouldn't the finger sometimes accidentally move the wrong way for a bit before "realizing" and making the correct motion?

5:35 what about earphone wires?

I sang your praises to a LA based special effects company also to a medical prosthesis company, hope they have been in contact with you.

Amazing project how about useing linear actuators for hand movement it sounds like it would go good with the pulley aspects of the design.

Sir you make cad design on which software......?? I love your work ❤️❤️

this shit is good, you just must compact more the carpal bones

at 6:00 how did you manage to accurately print a pulley that fits the servo spline? Not tried with an MG90 but a smaller one was something of a fail for me. Incidently, it might be worth a search around in case there is a reachable hackspace who have a resin printer. Small chance but might be worth checking.

Can you link where you got the rotary encoders

Have you considered this kind of "roling joint" (3-DOF wrist joint) for the wrist? From what I could see it imitates the entirety of the motions the human wrist is capable of, including the fact that roling the hand doesn't turn it around 360°. LIMS2-AMBIDEX mechanical design kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l7KRpLCjyrzOaaM.html LIMS 2 - AMBIDEX Arm Joint recreated and printed kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iL6Yp8aI35urcps.html

Hey, you should take few hours to tweak your 3d printer , the quality can be greatly improved

Would scaling it up make it easier (thinking 1.5 - 5x ?). Big enough you can use standard screws/bolts, and have more working room?

Wow! He's a live!!! )))

Need a somewhat similar system for ankles.

How about flat flex cable for the pots?

Why don't you try out bell wire? It is very thin, flexible, cheap and insulated. The Anycubic Photon Zero might be a good choice if your parts are not too big. Keep up your good work.

I believe you are using the potentiometer in the phalanges for servo feedback. why not leave these potentiometers mounted in your own servo case ? Will it give you enough accuracy than in the phalanges ? Simplification is the game for machine durability.

Whereabouts are you located? I dare say it is not Australia but if it is let me know as I have a resin printer

Hello. What 3D printer setup are you using? You should be able to get a lot better print quality results than what I'm seeing in your videos.

While a true SLA printer may be more accurate you may want to look into getting a DLP resin printer for the price, thankfully in the last few years the price has come down a ton for both the machines and the resin. I should also mention that there are a lot of tricks and methods to go about fixing or tweaking a huge variety of different problems you encounter with resin printers so I'll be happy to help with what I know of DLP if the time comes.

Perhaps you should use magnet wire instead of the thick wire? Its not like theres any power involved here.

if you use genetic algorithms to train how to move the joints. With 200 generations you could have some nice results.

Have you considered using ribbon cables?

Have you tried PETG ?

Things lile this are where graphene and carcbon nanotubes will see their most potential, in creating smaller electronic components like actuators, connrctions, and sensors.

Really nice work and clean camera views. Would be awesome if you go to i-materialise.com and 3d print this in stainless steel. It's expensive but within reach. crowd fund the cost for one finger. I'd be happy to contribute, to see results =) Obviously to realize lightweight you'd have to punch out some material from the models...