I think its better to try and fix it than to just a buy a new one cus they are definitely not cheap!

@@captainredbond yeaah I'm gonna end up trying eventually. I already had another one so I'm good for now though atleast lol

@@InFinZible Good luck!

@@captainredbond Thank you!

I'm already on my 3rd controller, god damn these things suck and are weak asf

Is that a double negative or am I stupid? Did you mean “How to de-solder improperly”

@@xzeuii That's not a double negative, it is a single negative. The "not" here modifies "properly" to mean "not properly", so like you said, the sentence effectively says "how to [de-solder] improperly".

@@HenrikMyrhaug I saw not and “de” be used right after each other and lost the ability to understand the sentence. I got what he meant, he just worded it poorly for how I read

You can use either the sucker or the desoldering wick it doesn't matter they do the same thing. I agree the with first statement though

Hmmmmm he did use flux though it's all over as he's using suckered to remove solder although that sucker doesn't look very user friendly it's like an old bb gun. Or poor man's paint all gun

That just happened to me, it fell and hit the ground at a weird angle, we forced it back in and it doesn’t work.

Opened the comments just to find this one 😃😎

Helps get the job done 😂

haha

And i damaged more than before 🤣😂😂😂🤣

normal. mine needed to be pushed into place after snapping the plastic pieces back in.

Thank !

You can technically just pop the Potentiometer off and desolder 3pins instead off the whole analog stick. But for me fps games destroyed my L3 so i needed to do the whole thing.

True.

I doing in a cheap way. I bought 20$ soldering kit, 20$ heat gun, 10$ a standard RGEEK analog (i dont know which analog is the best one), and 10$ helping hand. Once my shipment arrives hopefully i could fix it, I have bought 5 remote and 3 of them has already drifting. Im getting tired of buying new remote. Thank you i was looking for any good analog replacement but i have not seen anything of lifespan.

Link?

@@boringnolifekillstreak Did you replace them already? Correct with above statement the orange ones are the way to go I bought a set to replace both but instead of changing out the whole modules I did the four sensors because it was alot easier than unsoldering all pins for me they work great!

@@whatfoo661 well i haven't done it.i bought the heat gun and it was very weak, im purchasing the stationary one either on home depot or on Amazon. Im willing to try your idea in the future since i have already purchased it.

@@boringnolifekillstreak If you take apart the controller sometimes you can be lucky as to only have to clean inside the potentiometer track. Debris can get inside and cause the drift issues I'd try that first but since you already purchased the modules might as well put em in right! Hopefully you can get it fixed man👍

Did you expect to fix it with stick glue and scissors?

Moron

Tell me your new to modifying electronics without saying your new to modifying electronics. Lol!

​@segmeant yeah no shit anyone watching this is new

The cleaning solution he used was isopropyl alcohol (also known as IPA). He was cleaning the flux off the board. Having leftover

I can’t stand silent videos.

The Dualsense 5 uses the 2.1k ohms by ALPS (green) which looks similar to the one he installed. I've read somewhere that the yellow and green ones aren't interchangeable but when the sellers I've asked all say it's compatible with the Dualsense. I'm curious in finding out the working condition of the controller after this video was posted.

@@EarlDerrickReal Yep a comprehensive study of control feel may need to be done between the pots for response curve & sensitivity documentation for general public understanding, not discounting that the chip may actually automatically detect the pot resistance rating on boot up? (The DS2 seemed to have an auto calibration feature to keep dead spot positions fixed the DS5 don't seem to stretch to that given the need for aftermarket soldered on drift fix, or the dead spot is smaller tighter so if it's digitally off it drifts?) Plus pad to pad control consistency was needed for online competitive play. We may never know by design, such information is valuable lol. If no 2 pads in game setups are the same per change axis pot side that would start to get more confusing than it already is but it would be good to know the working options & parameters we can change. (Preset response curve via component?) Have you seen my control pad modding playlist by chance I focussed on analogue stick form factor & what it effects. I was gona make a new vid on potentiometer selection drift fix best options with soldered secondary trim pots but it would be painfully beyond my full understanding due to pot resistance changes in DS5. The last piece of the puzzle to understand how primary resistance effects play consistency across the response curve control range, then hope the core mechanical pot has a tight no slop resting centre lol. (That is why I avoid even attempting that painfully boring vid like the plague, besides im waiting for components I've ordered 10k & 2k potentiometer sides plus 500k trim pots for deadspot adjustment after) Self education = to a fully qualified know nothing scrapping the barrel for perceived information ;^)

my guess is mentholated spirits.

It’s works till now? 😮

@@ihe8o no, it stopped after 2 days. I replaced tha analog stick in the end.

I took that part from old ps4 controler and put it in dual sense.

Most aftermarket controllers i got had 2 year warranty at least. Dual Sense has only one ,and they will fail for sure if they only last 400 hours . Why would they make those analogs easy to replace when they can print money. ALPS, the manufacturer of these sticks, made very sturdy Dual Shock 3 sticks but with each new controller they got worse. The plastic moving parts are smaller , the dark coating inside the potentiometer is thinner and the whole stick feels more flexible and less precise. The best one was the DS3 early PS3 controller wich had magnetic analogs. They were the best by far .

No. You’d need a new PCB.

Guilkit has that available now? Are you sure? Last I checked they said they were intending to make hall effect module replacements for the Edge version controller first but haven't yet done so (as far as I know).

To do this kind of work i recomend using a heat gun don't use a solder and a desolder to remove the joystick solder dots you have a high chance to damage te board happened to me when i was learning how to remove a joystick on a ps4 controller

@@bydiego7192 Thank you very much for your response! I had the same problem with my previous (Xbox) controller. Do you know if it's really necessary to have a heat gun, or could (something like) a hair dryer suffice?

@@MrKippie15 yes in this case you will need a heat gun the price of a good one is around 50 US or a desoldering gun and the cheapest one is around 120 US , hair dryer will only get the plastic stuff in the motherboard melted THIS IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER USE THERMAL TAPE AND ALUMINUM TAPE TO COVER THE REST OF THE MOTHERBOARD SO IT WILL NOT MELT ANY COMPONENTS OR PLASTIC PLUGS IN THE MOTHERBOARD

@@MrKippie15 i forgot to say you can use this kind of equipment too is cheaper than a desoldering gun is called a desoldering pump

@@bydiego7192 I thank you kindly for sharing your knowledge with me! This will be of great help to me :) My Dual Sense 5 is still holding up, but I feel like it won't for much longer.

aluminum foil

Ikr, the soldering part is pretty meh 😐

A desoldering gun (Google search) is used to heat up the solder in order to remove and a soldering tool of course is used to solder.

That's what I was wondering as well

Just invert them in the ps5 settings

@@talhasaavedra6391 All the ps5 settings does is it turns invert on if the game your launching has it in its options :( some games like GTA5 , Skyrim call of duty don’t have X-axis invert support so ps5 setting won’t turn it on :(

@@nobody1322 but why would you even want to invert them its good as it is

@@talhasaavedra6391 i guess same reason you wouldn’t want to invert them, it’s the way my brain is wired i guess. For me to play a game with out inverted buttons is like a person who plays normal and asking them to invert, it’s very hard to play. I flat out can’t play games unless their inverted and avoid buying them if the option is not there. Best way I can describe it is if your right handed and your asked to write an essay using your left hand , yea you can do it, but it’s not accurate and it’s frustrating .

@@nobody1322 Well, fair point but if I was you I would just learn how to play normally no matter how hard it is because personally I love videogames and I also have a ps5 so I wouldn't let this problem ruin my experience because I want to enjoy it.

No. In fact, these yellow analog stick is the reason for the drifting. It's cheapie. Replace them with ALPS's product (mostly green) is the better choice. But double check the resistance of the analog stick's potentiometers before replacing, it should be 2.3kΩ. For DualShock3 and DualShock4, it should be 10.3kΩ. I didn't test if the 10.3kΩ ones works on DualSense.

You can say that again.

Cheap heat managment i suppose?

Literally no need unless you are paranoid you will damage the circuit board

@milku Well yeah its a heat gun desolder job when he flips it over the base of the analog stick is melted to the board. Paranoia or damage limitation prudent planning heat disipation or cooking the whole thing like a baked potato? Ide stick to sealed edges kapton tape on that note? lol. Things do have the tendency to melt on hot boards with direct airflow deflection like rubbers & possibly the white ribbon cable connectors in close proximity? theres plenty of scope for failure on full stick removal jobs for the uninitiated. Ive only done it once on a spare DS4 board with solder sucker & iron only. (I failed, slipped & knocked off 4 micro resistors? (pushing the post pins with iron incrementally) I found them then lost 2 never to be seen again & could not get them back on the board when i had them) Caution prep work correct tools is advised lol. Desolder wick is key next time with an extra flux pot. And i even stripped the 3 pin side pots down first to minimize the heat & effort needed for full removal trying to keep it all in working unmelted order. (note you cant force these things they will rip out the copper board contacts if not done right solder wick seems to be a key requirement to draw out the solder with flux) Any community tips ive missed? Other than square to hole removal. Or just replacing the side trim pot full assembly if all else is mechanically sound. Thats non sloppy tight centre rest position & button press. Side pot peel down clean & inspection of contact track should be the start point noting on screen function. No 2 analog sticks are the same resistance & deadspot. There digitally calibrated to the board on manufacture. DS 5 seems to have moved to 2K (2000) 23 code resistance pots? Over traditional 10K (10000) 103 code last number is 0's I know nothing on what that serves to response curve or just throwing a spanner at the repair community for parts selection lol? The digital logged resistance start point, they dont want us to know what we are doing lol.

Ive seen the plasic battery and ribbon cable connectors melt before so

yes it is

U cant play competetive retard

That’s not powder. It’s rubbing alcohol/isopropyl alcohol. It works great cleaning electronics as long as it is above 60% alcohol. I use it all the time to clean my drones flight controllers, esc, etc…

@@aiRxShop Thought it was mentholated spirits.

@@davidtsmith33 haha metholated*…helps decrease any latency. 😂

yup

No, idont have shop

Nope. I checked.

hahahahahaa

Yes

Triple 0 or 000

There’s an easier way

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mtB5qbWgyNLWj3k.html This worked on all of my controllers

@@Jferraro24 are you saying buying a new controller is easier? Or are you saying there’s another way to fix it? If so please elaborate.

@@g.period1658 the link I attached is a video on how to fix stick drift you don’t need to buy a new controller and it worked really well for me so just check out that video.

@@Jferraro24 which link?

They like sea shells.

They've since released the Edge version controller with easy swap out/swap in thumb-stick modules but are very pricey at US$199.99. And they still have the shitty potentiometers. Just that the modules are easier to replace. Unfortunately no electromagnetic/hall effect ones yet.

Cuz what is that that Ain’t in the tool kit

Finding new vid cuz hell naw

Fk it there all the same I just won’t remove it

9:14 bye

I read somewhere a class action lawsuit was being filed but don't know how far that's gone or if it's ever gotten off the ground yet. I really hope they go through with that if not already. These potentiometer controllers are spoiling the console's good name.