Just finished the print - the first thing I hit is the force required to open the unit as the close surfaces on the inside blades tend to warp and bind. I've been doing my best to free things up by working everything and have somehow managed to close it up fully! Not sure I'll summon a Centobite in a hurry at this stage, but it's a brilliant cube!

Thanks and good luck with that. Hopefully it's the puzzle working as intended, otherwise a little sandpaper and/or lube might help. I actually submerged one of the earlier ones in soapy water to begin with.

@@TroyMackay Thats not a half bad idea! I really think that the mistake is mine somehow, but typically we just cannot see inside the unit to figure out where it's binding!

​@@TroyMackay I greased mine up all moving parts that touch with wd40. I wish the spring had a little more tension in it to where it comes up with a little more force. I haven't tried disassembly yet, but I got this extra cylindrical grey part with "teeth" on it that came extra. As I peer through the pieces I can see that same part within already so I was confused if it was a "spare" for a commonly failed component?

Trying to keep an air of mystique. The prop itself designed by the late Simon Sayce. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hcmIZdaK0brVYok.html

No shit.

@@gmon78 He stated in the title "puzzle box of unknown origin" so in other words he did not know where it originated from so I provided with an answer!

It's caused a lot of headaches, so I try to steer people towards the newer "deconstructed" version, but since you're here you might want to check out the "Cube Ripper" on Thingiverse. Strategically placed pencils or wooden spoon handles works for me to apply a bit of controlled force (assuming you haven't managed to turn the dials to lock it yet).

Not really, without breaking another part. The rotating part of the core would probably break off with a bit of force, like pulling it apart and bending it a little but then you'll have two problems. The glued part will always be weaker, another option would be to reinforce it with some 10mm dowel (or a bunch of skewers). You could possibly cut some notches to extract the core like the newer designs. Let me think about it some more, there might be a way to carefully break it so it is fixable. Worst case you'd still have a display piece without the core.

I'm assuming you don't have access to a 3D printer to print a replacement core. First thing I'd try is maneuvering a piece of dowel in there. 10mm or so diameter, flattened on two sides to squeeze in the gaps. A tight fit might be fiddly, but hold on its own, otherwise at least it will make it easier to align and glue the broken part (which should be reasonably accessible). Otherwise, I reckon you could make a clean cut with a hacksaw blade, straight down the middle of the sliding cylinder lengthways - stop half way or just enough to split the outer spinning ring (like crankshaft bearings). This might allow you to expand the fingers enough to get the spinning ring off the end of the cylinder and back again, cutting again in quarters if required.

It's probably worth mentioning since you're not the first to ask. Yes, there is a 10mm diameter void within that is almost the length of the cube when closed. I was saving this for some kind of telescoping spring but you could hide something in there. There would be even more room without the puzzle mechanism, I was actually thinking of making another version with a simple latch to maximise that space.

@@TroyMackay Thank for the reply. This sounds like exactly what I was after for my DnD campaign! Again, thank you for your amazing work!

Take a look at cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/78/13/13/0f/4c/IMG_5775_annotated.JPEG from www.thingiverse.com/make:925588 courtesy of @perhakon

@@TroyMackay Thanks! sadly i have a new problem, i didn't manage to free that before i popped open the top dial and i thin i locked it accidentally, whoops! ok i got it. now to separate the bottom dial and that part lol

The only one I would feel comfortable recommending would be Jay Bart Creations on Etsy. Most of the others steal his photos and there's no telling what you're going to get. There is another remodel floating about that appeared on Chris Ramsay's channel that almost looks injection molded (probably resin) but since they don't show actual photos of their product, who knows where to get it?

@@TroyMackay Hi, thanks for the info. Etsy looks the best bet, good quality.👍

No need to take it apart. From the open position you can feed it through the gap into position. The spring is a bit wider than the gap but you can spiral/screw it through. The latest version does come apart for easier printing, though (but also uses a 5mm spring to strengthen the latch).

@@TroyMackay where do you get the spring, i've been searching both online and local hardware and hobby supply but cannot find a 5mm OD x 120mm spring anywhere, even mcmaster doesn't have them

@@Sidion I found a bunch on eBay, item 222981900101 was the actual one I bought which is still there.

@@TroyMackay thats perfect thank you

Sounds like it is working as intended. When the top dial spins like that it is latched, but not locked (to use a door analogy). If you are able to start turning the bottom dial, that is when it is truly locked. There are two positions the top dial can get to from here (and it has to be aligned fairly precisely) one which opens, and one at 180 degrees which allows the bottom dial to start turning. It sometimes gives a moment of free travel at the open position so it's easy to skip over. As an extra hint, take a look at how the dials align with each other in the 3D model. They don't quite align but kind of share an edge. If you look really closely, they're not quite symmetrical either.

@@TroyMackay Thanks for the heads up. Fiddled with it a bit more (your right, it was easy to skip over). got it opened again :) But now I'm scared to lock it :P

@@hydntylr95 You're supposed to be scared to open it! :)

Only the top side ever spins freely once it is out of the maze, then it's just a matter of finding the position it opens.

@@TroyMackay so i just have to get the thing solved and hope I don't lose what's left of my sanity, cool. thanks for the advice

Check out the "Exploded View" on Thangs (link in description). It should show which pieces need to separate. A matter of wedging a hobby knife between the partially fused layers just to get the crack started all the way around.

Sorry about the colour choice - it looks really nice off camera, though. thangs.com/tmackay/Puzzle-Cube-Open-14340 has a nice exploded view which might help. There should be a small seam visible where the sliding cylinder is stuck to the outer shell (it is symmetric). Just insert it enough to hear a crack and move around to the next gap.

@@TroyMackay thanks for that, managed to get it to free off from your description

Thank God (if you care what he thinks). Thought I would have to start making them myself: www.etsy.com/listing/1039284489/working-lament-configuration-lock-puzzle

There's a lot of contact area there with the bed, and a lot of variables to control extrusion - flow rate, temperature, e-steps etc.

You're nearly there, sounds like the at least one of the dials are even moving (since it won't close - it's probably just turned a little out of alignment). Have a look at the Thangs link - it has a nice exploded view, but you should be able to see the seam where the parts join. Just carefully insert a hobby knife to encourage it to separate, or even give it a little tap to shear it apart.

@@TroyMackay Seems something went wrong in the middle, some sections where melded when they shouldnt have. I have seen another one of your cubes ( Hard Mode ) seems a lot simpler in terms of operation and printing. Will give that a shot and print the core first.

@@nidhogg3390 No worries, good luck. I was thinking you could print the core of this one separately, and do the trick of pausing the print at a certain layer and dropping it in but I think that would be inviting failure at 90% might require some slight tweaks to the model, too.

Suffer... Seriously though, I've got a video explaining the mechanism if that helps visualize what's going on in there. One tip I'd give for turning the dials is stick to a preferred direction and just back track a little if you get to a dead end.

@@TroyMackay dead end would be when you can no longer turn the chosen one in said direction no matyer the position of the other one? Also wich video is that?

Not quite sure I follow where exactly it is breaking. There was a bit of a weak spot in the key piece that protrudes from one of the dials which is one reason I switched to a 5mm spring (in the "deconstructed" version). To make it stronger, add walls/perimeters instead of infill, though.

@@TroyMackay I upgraded the Infill but now the top internal ring won't come free I haven't freed the dials up yet but should I be able to simply get these both half off each other?... Seems jammed in the middle

@@trevorphilips9368 There's a one-layer gap at the top of the cylindrical core that might need a little encouragement to de-laminate. A hobby knife should do it.

@@trevorphilips9368 You know there's a heaps easier version to print, right? (description) I'm starting to think the dials and retaining rings are still better off printed in place if you can manage the clearances and don't mind the overhang.

It is possible to engage the maze with the main latch in the open position (ie. without turning 180 degrees first). So that the maze itself is holding the two halves together with limited movement. The retaining rings shouldn't really interfere, they are just to stop the dials poking out like that, maybe add a little glue. Your best bet would be to re-engage the main latch and solve the maze until you can turn one of the dials through a full 360 degrees before disengaging the main latch again.

Take your time. Have you been able to get a little movement from each of the "fingers" as you work your way around? Also check out this handy tool: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4950079 by CUBEd_3D

@@TroyMackay yeah yeah. The "fingers" are moving out a bit. I am slowly working around with the knife, cleaning ridges. Hopefully I will manage to open it. The model is absolutely amazing. I also looked at the exploded version so I will hopefully open it.

@@TroyMackay printed out the tools, Moved the fingers as far as they were able untill i heard the crack from them releasing from the ridges, moved it this way all around. I ran blades multiple times throught the crevices of the model. It is looser but still wont move a fuckin inch outwards. No matter what i try. I even threw it into a bucket of warm soapy water and it did absolutely nothing. It would perhaps use a little bit more space around the pegs inside so it is easier. Almost destroyed my whole thumb on it as the design quite cut your hands. I am working on the cube since noon and its almost evening. I saw every video, read every description, but the damn cube wont move an inch.

@@TroyMackay finally managed to pull it apart but the part under the cylinder broke off while i slid the parts open so I can throw it into the bin anyway. 10/10

​@@AlphaOmegaLPstudio Sorry to hear. I've got a lineup of previous designs and print failures myself. I included the "draft" as a way of quickly tuning the printer without going all the way. It's the same print-in-place mechanism just without the styling.

Usually just need to break the seal. Same clearances used throughout the model, so if it opens then overextrusion shouldn't be the problem. Might just need a little encouragement.

@@TroyMackay ok,but it is supposed to come apart then?

@@Vampir4997 no, only opens to the point shown. Doesn't come apart completely.

@@TroyMackay sorry,mean the inner part so it will turn

@@Vampir4997 not sure I follow. Check out the exploded view on Thangs, it shows all the separate pieces pretty well

Not required, but I do find it helps to have a little disk under the center dial of the debossed version (100% support interface)

Haha, good luck. Keen to see how you get on. It's always hard to judge the difficulty of a puzzle when you already know how it works.

Nice one. It might require a little force the first time to crack the seal. There is heaps of leverage, so it shouldn't take much.

@@TroyMackay is there a seal that needs to be cracked or freedup, ive applied a decent amount of force

​@@SGTBaconese There are separate parts, which when print will tend to slightly stick together, usually just the first layer. I'm talking about the inner core cylinder piece which has a separate turning section. Take a look at the exploded view in the description if you haven't already.

I just remembered a setting in Cura I have been using, Z Seam Alignment: Random. Binding can occur at prominent vertical seams otherwise.

Ok thanks, maybe I'll try again

The question has come up a few times, no examples yet. Would come down to strategic support placement (I suspect) when it comes to translating FDM "tricks" like bridging and 1-layer gaps (while still being able to separate them without being able to reach inside. I'm just starting to dabble in resin with my first printer on the way.

@@TroyMackay I just got a resin printer and I am determined to print this! It's might not go as played but I'll be damned if I don't try!

@@zero-production-value Me too. It's a different ball game than FDM, so I think it will need a few tweaks. Hope to spend some time on it this weekend. Keep an eye out for an updated model. Also trying to figure out how to print it in multiple parts - I kind of designed myself into a corner with the whole print-in-place thing.

@@TroyMackay I realised it wouldn't be possible to print the whole thing in one piece using a resin printer as when it comes to the curing process you wouldn't be able to get light into the centre. Would definitely need to be printed in parts, not sure if the locking mechanism can be printed in separate parts then assembled and just have caps that glue to the mechanism to hold it all together maybe?

@@zero-production-value Hmm, I hadn't considered that. Figured sunlight would penetrate fairly well but perhaps not. I'm tossing up a few ideas, like having some sideways slots halfway up which would allow the core to be removed by rotation. Removable dials should be quite doable, from previous experiments.

No, I share my designs freely for anyone who wants to make them.

@@TroyMackay mate you could make a fortune on this design I would defo buy I don't have the no how to make it.

I was searching for one and yours is the only one I can find that functions properly

@@stu6385 Yeah, maybe. A few have asked to buy it and I've looked at external printing services but for the price you're better off just getting a printer! Gets a bit dicey with copyright and movie props, might end up summoning a team of leather clad IP lawyers.

@@stu6385 Exactly what I was going for - how can you call a solid block of wood a "puzzle"?

Yeah, it's not the best colour for film.

That's pretty consistent with feedback I've received so far. It's not an easy one, but once you figure it out it can be solved fairly quickly and opened reliably. I might do a solution video at some point.

@@TroyMackay That would be awesome if you did at some point. Otherwise I'll just end up printing the draft core next so I can compare the route while i work on the real thing. I locked it a week after printing and haven't been able to get it open since hehe. ;)