Didn't you know that troy IS pin head !.. He made the box.. They came..

He closed it though. So they left.

Thanks and good luck!

I'd sooner encourage you to buy a 3d printer and have a go yourself, but Jay Bart Creations has been selling one of my newer versions on Etsy with a beautiful finish: www.etsy.com/au/listing/1039284489/working-lemarchands-lament-configuration

There wasn't much to it, really. I just slathered on the layers until it was nice and thick then sanded it back using sandpaper on a flat surface.

I don't make them for sale, but the design is freely available. You could try Jay Bart Creations on Etsy, he makes the most recent version and does quite a nice job.

Correct, one core, A+B and I'd recommend the Negative version as you have. Both A and B halves should each have a turning dial and the centre gear (all one piece) of the core should turn from both sides, too. ie. from either dial on A or B.

@@TroyMackay Strange, the one i printed doesnt have that gap in order to turn the dial

@@nidhogg3390 it is pretty sensitive to getting squished into the bed, the elephant's foot effect. There is a seam in the model, right on the edge of the flat spot on the dial, just before the pattern begins.

My preference is to paint it all and sand back the high spots, hence I included both embossed and debossed versions. It helps that it's flat so I can lay the sandpaper on a flat surface.

@@TroyMackay that's a great idea, thanks!

Sorry, I've been meaning to do a followup video paying special attention to the core but haven't got back to it. Firstly, the teeth need to be aligned (back to the initial position) by turning the dials (or not turning at all) - that's the locking mechanism. There are some "false" solutions where not all the narrow teeth align allowing for a partial open or sometimes the teeth aren't quite aligned or have a bit of play - maybe try jiggling it a bit or take the sharp corners off the teeth. Secondly, the core needs to be oriented correctly when inserted - the bigger teeth will remain in the tracks while the smaller ones can escape through the gaps at the end. You should be able to move the core freely in and out of each half from the fully inserted position to sticking half-way out the top. There should be 5 layers to the core all up, a set of two gears on the top and bottom plus a double thickness one in the middle. The gap should be visible in the model - and preserved in the slicer preview. If not all layers are separated the gears won't turn freely anyway and if you skip teeth, good luck. The spring holder pegs were an afterthought to add a tapered spring (5-6mm x ~30mm) diameter from a mechanical pencil I had on hand. There's a newer version without them with an integrated 5mm spring holder. I didn't need to glue mine, friction was sufficient to prevent them falling out (this will depend a lot on tolerances) and they go inside the core.

Core video is up: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hpaclK2h3p6zYKc.html

Ah, fond memories of high-school sleepovers. Of the first movie at least.

You mean close it, right?

@@TroyMackay or both 😏

In the earlier movies, a block of wood, stained (mahogany, ivory, alizarin crimson, prussian blue?) with brass etchings glued on and lacquered. Plus a few versions with movements operated by rods. Later movies like Judgement it looks quite different, maybe moulded. In the story, it contained some rather... exotic materials.

@@TroyMackay yes I've seen the interview where the artist shows how they rotated with the rod. Beautiful to watch

@@DethronerX where can I find this interview please? Thanks.

@@TroyMackay the fine filigreed etching detail on each of the faces is absolutely exquisite.

Beautiful construction and technical artistry in these boxes. Thanks for this upload.

Thank God (if you care what he thinks). Thought I would have to start making them myself: www.etsy.com/listing/1039284489/working-lament-configuration-lock-puzzle

Kinda curious to see how it would go, but any hint of money being made would likely summon a few demons seeking royalties. Better luck spilling a few drops of blood on the floor.

As it stands, I don't think so. Haven't tried myself but the 0.2mm vertical gaps would cause the print to fail without supports and brittleness is a big problem for gears. Also UV curing the hidden surfaces might be challenging. The newer version uses a completely different mechanism, though.

@@TroyMackay well... the core mechanism did not work. That part of the print won't work. The 2 cube pieces worked out just fine... minus having to clean nearly a billion supports off the underside x_x. But yeah... watch out for gears and bearings when using a resin printer... probably not going to work out so well. Sadly.

@@sniperteam08 Did you check out the resin version? I still haven't printed it myself but someone gave it a try. Main trouble seems to be resin parts not sliding freely against each other.

@@TroyMackay I'm using water washing resin. I'm going to try different orientations for the core piece. I'm not hopeful though. Resin is amazing for some things... but not for everything.

@@sniperteam08 Like this one, without the gears: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4977426

In the centre, threaded through the hole in the cylindrical core. Makes it jump open a little when things align.

Thank God (if you care what he thinks). Thought I would have to start making them myself: www.etsy.com/listing/1039284489/working-lament-configuration-lock-puzzle

Not that I have seen. Also the one-layer gap trick used in the gearbox might not work in resin. You'll probably need a little support material to anchor it, or tilt it on an angle. I haven't used resin myself, so I'm not familiar with the limitations.

Jay Bart Creations has been doing some nice work on Etsy: www.etsy.com/au/listing/1039284489

Yes, links in description. There's been a few iterations since this one.

Thanks. I don't really have the patience or skills to paint and finish it properly, though it would be cool to see someone take it on. It's the puzzle element I want to see through, which is also still a work in progress - can't call it a puzzle box if it's an inanimate solid cube, now can we? Probably a few iterations to come yet. It would be pretty cool to make it CNC'able (at least with my joinery skills) with real wood and brass etchings.

I'm not really geared up for production, sorry. Still trying to get my latest prototype painted and finished!

@@TroyMackay hope you make it then. Good luck. It is a nice puzzlebox

Sounds like you just need a reason to get one! There's also a ton of printing services where you can just send them the model and they print it for you (I haven't used any myself). Use the files however you like. The core is a bit particular when it comes to layer height and tolerances but assuming they know their business it should be fine.

@@TroyMackay isnt being a hellraiser fan reaosn enough? lol ill def look into it, thanks for the info

Correct, with a bit more practice you can ease it in more gently. Applying a moment load around in a circular motion (kind of like the precession of a spinning top) helps to splay the fingers apart.