Simple Device. I recommend Max 120 VOC 40 amps for the 60amp version. Always use 2x 10 gauge wire to the battery and from the PV. The Solar side needs DC breakers and the Battery also needs a Bigger DC Breaker. Not much going on inside. Never max this controller out it will fry. The reason I say 120VOC is to keep the internal temps down. Flip the fan around to blow cool air on the components. You would never fan a fan away from you to cool down right? Do NOT use solid copper wire. That is for AC application Only! Always use multi braided strand copper to allow better power travel. If you mount this controller to a wall You will need a spacer behind it to allow for max heat dissipation. This controllers simple build will last for 2 to 5 years before it quits. Again always treat the 60 Amp model like a 40 amp. As for 150 VOC incoming and forcing the MPPT side to bring it down to a lower voltage your going to create a ton of heat. Reducing how you series your Panels will benefit. For those that operate this under 120 VOC expect a longer life span and less problems down the road. This has PV reverse polarity 100% but, it does NOT have reverse battery polarity and may severely damage the unit. This charge controller will melt in a ball of fire and never shut it self off if it over heats.

I found on mine after change programming, have to disconnect battery to effect any change in programming.

Checkout PowMr & MakeSkyBlue side-to-side comparison: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bdKFg8uUuZzTgKs.html

I like the hardware and it's the cheapest 60amp MPPT I've seen. Uses 2 separate buck converters 180 phase difference, smartest way I know. Installing a sync. rect. circuit would make it perfect energywise. I discovered solar cells are 200% efficient at charging as compared to Line powered 95% switching charger. 200v .09 ohm fets and 4 Schottkey diodes on each phase. fets diodes have special/fake markings. TO247 style on both

I got this charge controller almost 5 years ago and it's good until now it's working

I cite someone who knows how it works which is also in the instructions. "Important: For programming information to be retained by the controller you must disconnect the Solar power input from the controller. Once the unit has been programmed confirm that it has the information stored by disconnecting the battery connection. The controller will always boot up by running the fan momentarily, finally check to ensure the parameters you set have been retained."

Is it possible to tune this Solarcharger? It doesn´t charge my 24V Lifepo4. I connected 2 JaSolar in parallel and 35,2 V are obviosly not enough to start MPPT. Connecting the PV-modules in serial works. Any idea?

Can I connect 2 pieces of 550watt solar panel (24volt)with a 12 volt 80ampere lead acid battery?

Подскажите пожалуйста, показывает только входной вольтаж и сколько есть на акб. Индикация заряда вроде идёт но не заряжает и не показывает колличество ватт и ампер которые приходят, скачет вольтаж 27-60 система собрана на 24в и два акб по12. Контакты паяные норм, показывает 4 режим работы.

Que dois je faire pour s'allumer l' écran quand il a éteint ?

1 .Do not stack in the wall ... Use something to keep dinsttans like m10 Rusk .... 2 do not plug panel if first don setup first setup after connect the battery this happens to set up MOSFET... MOSFET its in the back thats i tell your keep dinstans from the walls... Manu profile its not setup correctly use flooded and setup the voltage and after conect hte pv panel.... Thenks for your time

Nice review - thanks. Do you have a link to the bms you are using, and is it any good?

Good report thanks.

Nice review. Yes it is a big problem if the charge controller doesn;t have a voltage limit in charging the batteries. But i just got this model and in my LIFEPO4 batteries, (i just tested it with 12v system) and the limit is working. I put the D02 at 13,7 and when it goes up to 13,7 it stops charging the batteries. (no matter that the manual says that it doesn't apply in LIFEPO4). Maybe in a 48v system you put a limit of D02 ---> 13.7v and it automatically cuts it of at 54,8v?? Maybe because you have the limit very low it just ignores it?

and what are d05 and d06 settings??????????

Thank you.

How did you connect ya panels

is the output voltage on load side, always 12v or adjusted beyond to installed battery ?

Honestly I have 0 problems so far with it and even used it as a car jump started by feeding 84v at 10A on solar side to give the 12v car battery a head start and well been using it as a solar charge controller and as my UPS for 24v system it's been working no problem

I have been using this charge controller for 2 years and ive had no problems it heats up and fan comes on it cools down its had no problems never skipped at beat in hot or cold , I even bought another one for another setup this time 24v not 12v i have every faith in this product and there is nothing dangerous about it.

After it reaches the charging voltage, does the controller keep a float voltage or it just stops charging?

What happens if you set D02 at 14 V a value that is closer to a full charge?

I think the burnt out one most likely had a fan failure, there isn't a large heat sink on this. I'm going to use one but mount it on a heat sink and undersize the system about 20% (recommended 1400w per Controller) You could also put it in an enclosure and add an additional fan.

I added a heatsink on the back to reduce fan use and dust collection. also I added polypropylene caps in paralell to the electrolytics as these are not rated for the ripple current, even when operated in the 3phase interleaved mode. the 30 and 40A rated units only have 2 channels populated. the ripple current is minimal when operated at Vin=1.5x vout. so try to put that number of panels in series. I have the original makeskyblue version, but no-one knows who is actually designing/making this ..

The design of the unit fan could be better if they made fan slowly turn on according to temperature via thermistor, rather than strict ON/OFF (40C/35C) Also the unit does not have an Equalization mode, only bulk and float. BUT it is real MPPT, so that makes up for design flaws.

One question, the load disconnects after the battery gets bellow the pre defined voltage on D03 setting. Do you know when it reconnects? It needs to be a manual thing? Is it when the battery is full again?

After completing all setting changes you have to disconnect the solar, then disconnect the battery.. Then when you reconnect the battery the new settings will take effect.

my PowMr also overload the battery compared to the settings, but only a little. I have Li-Ion. My settings are: d01=d02=12.2, d04=01 It loads my battery to 49.2V (should only load to 12.2*4=48.8V) then the mode goes from 3(mppt) -> 7(float) and charge current goes down. I believe the voltage reading is not calibrated. Like you see: PowMr displays 10A load current, gauge says 9A load. A 10% mismatch. On my PowMr I see the same mismatch. 10-20% more amps are displayed than actually loaded. But overall this device is very good (for only 120€ shipped). I can charge at nearly full 60A. Heat is a problem, for this I added a CPU heatpipe cooler to the back with a separate 120mm fan.

What happened at 5:03 did you overload it?

great. i bought this about a month ago and havent had a chance to test yet. now i have to worry about this burning the house down?

Hey, I have PowMr MPPT 60A solar charge controller and 2 batteries solar battery 100Ah 12V EXACT DCS. Which values should I enter for parameters: d01 d02 and d03. Data from solar battery: Trickle charge: 13.6V - 13.8V Type: lead-acid Maximum end-of-charge voltage: 14.6-14.8V? Many greetings

I am just coming from Banggood. Is this a good MPPT?

nice review, however may I ask what batteries you were using please (chemistry and configuration) as I didn't see that mentioned? I really like your independent BMS that featured quickly in the video, is there another video which explores that and the battery it is working with?

Will this work with 18650 lithium ion battery?

It depends on the type of lithium battery. If it is lithium ion (e.g. 18650) or Lipo, a fully charged cell could be at 4.2V (i.e. 4.2x16=67.2V). If it is LiFePo4, a fully charge cell could safely be at 3.6V (i.e. 3.6x16=57.6V). So, in any case, setting it at multiples of 12.5V is safe for all lithium batteries. However, if the cells are not balanced, individual cells can be charge to a voltage level higher than allowed. That is when danger can occur, especially for Lipo and Li-ion batteries. You might be smelling the burn of new paint/and or leftover oil on the surface of the unit?

Hi, .i have 24 system,but dicharge low voltage not working on this mppt,setup on 11,5v,and should stop when 23v ,but this not happend!this happend also for overcharge,but after i read i need disconnect battery so setting get effects!but low voltage still not working ,discharge battery on 19v,!could be batery problem,because are different voltage?for exemple one is 12v and other is 10,8v?

Returned this unit also like many who found the Amazon description grossly fraudulent

Is the powmr mppt still working good.

Yo tengo uno de esta marca y tengo 4 celdas de 160w cada una y la pantalla siempre indica en modo de noche

can it be used with agm batteries?

Ok, I received my own unit of PowMr today. I tested this right away. I found that it does cut off at the set voltage at d02 when choosing lithium at d04. It cuts off slowly and stops at 0.2A which is not really charging. I know for sure because I was using a bike charger to serve as the solar panel. When it is charging the led is red when it stops charging the led turns green. It turns green at my own pre-set voltage of 13.8v. You were wrong saying that it did not work or your unit didn't work which is unlikely. Another youtuber confirmed this to me a while ago. He used it for several years now. This is indeed an older and cheaper version of it. The later versions 118 or later are better (still quite cheap though). Please visit kzfaq.info/get/bejne/grJ2jKeHtJ-7qGw.html

Savings on buying a PowMr will turn into a huge loss for you when you sort out the smoking wreckage of your burnt house. I miraculously avoided it. My inverter only lasted 2 weeks. Yours may last a year or two, but do you want to live on a powder keg?

omg will my powmr burnin? i have fear now lol

I don't waste time or money on these cheap things anymore.. you get what you pay for. I know some of of the other brands like victron are way over priced but in the long run it may be worth it

So any update on what happened with this ?

The United need more wire you are connect incorrect I have 4 mrpow for 4 years and no problem it is nothe charger controller problem if the installer can't read the instructions

You are using the wrong wire for a battery connection you are using AC wiring solid wire looks like what 14 maybe 12 gauge solid? You need to use at least 10 gage stranded wire. And the same with the solar connecting wires or you will not have full amp flow capability

You are right, i tried ALL that, panels off, program, battery off and on, etc etc etc, as per the Manual; DOES NOT WORK; PowMr very POORLY built, DOES NOT CUTOFF charging at the volts you programmed it!!!! and IF the BMS does not cut OFF, IT MAY GET YOUR HOUSE ON FIRE, the Lifepo4 batteries will SWELL baddly on overcharge with full Sun, and may catch fire; DO NOT BUY ; -- i do not know which ones do what you program them to do, anyone can say a good brand of MPPT?

Your wires are way too thin

Chất lượng sạc này rất tệ Thông số ảo, hiển thị 60A thực chất đo chỉ được cao nhất 43A.

If I see your very Fat Cable that you use for this Ampere - I know's all !! 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

You are using the incorrect wire mine's are 3 years old never had a problem with them I used the correct wires

Vee see how many vatts vee have. I vill break you if you mess vith my controller..lol

This controller is total junk, DO NOT BUY/USE this unless you want to burn down your house, trailer, motor home. It is very cheap for a reason. I bought one, installed it on my work shed and it almost burned it down.

First : learn electricity