It's certainly satisfying when things fit together. Thanks!

Thanks

Thank you!

Thanks. Today was a rest/recovery/video editing day.

It’s just the point away and that’s a 1\2”?

Not yet. When I build the walls the sills will be anchored to the pad and the walls attached to the frame.

It was cut from 1/2 inch PVC sheet that I had left over from another project. Intended to prevent moisture wicking fom the slab into the end grain of the posts.

Was gonna ask the same question. Can the timber frame not move at all or do you fasten it somehow

No. Thankfully those were provided as part of the frame materials, included with the course.

When I built the walls I anchored the sills to the fame with concrete anchor bolts. You can see this in a later video.

I think you're mostly seeing the entire frame assembly rock there. There isn't much play in those joints, and the beams themselves are 6x6, so they're not flexing. Once pinned, the assembly is very stiff.

Initially, I didn't. I'm not saying this is the best practice, but what I did was bolt the sills the the slab when building the walls and then the walls got fastened to the frame. You can see that in the later video for raising the walls. I guess it's a good thing we didn't have any crazy wind storms (it would take something akin to a hurricane to move this beast, I'd think) between building the roof and bolting the walls to the slab.

The foundation is a 40 inch high concrete wall 12 inches thick. Crushed rock and gravel is inside and compacted and then an 6 in slab on top of that. The middle area of the slab under the central posts has a rebar reinforced footing. The drains are nothing fancy, they just exit the side into gravel bed which drains into our pond. We don't expect to use anything other than clean water for over the stove/stones for sauna steam. No need for a septic system.

@@SalemWoodworks great thanks

Me too :-)

Anchor Seal

@@SalemWoodworks thank you! Found it here.

When I build the walls those will be lag bolted to the concrete slab and attached to the frame. The posts themselves sit on 1/2 inch pvc plates to prevent moisture wicking.

Good question. I have the same one. What duck fat?!

@@1qazandrew333 you didn't listen closely.

@@SalemWoodworks Oh well.. missed that bit.

I thought it was just end grain sealer

First, I strongly recommend the class. You could definitely take the class, even as someone with minimal woodworking experience. Once the frame is done, there's a lot of work to be done still for the rest of the build, but if you tackle things one step at a time, you can get through it. I wish I'd kept better track of my costs... not doing so fully may have been partially a "living in denial" issue, as I usually track project costs pretty religiously. If I had to guess, I'd think $10k would be a reasonable ball park estimate including stove, roofing, foundation, walls, insulation, electrical. Mine is definitely overbuilt. While building it I definitely had my moments where I thought I was crazy, spending all that time, effort and money to build a sauna. Now that I have it, I think no expense or effort would have been too much. We LOVE the sauna and use it three times a week in colder weather. Good luck, and don't hesitate to reach out for advice or inspiration along the way.

@@SalemWoodworks thanks Judd! I am certainly going to take the class. I don’t have ready lumber or decent trees to cut down to mill. Whereas you had some cool lumber I may try using pallet wood as exterior siding. As a CPA I am used to breaking down projects into smaller steps. I know I previously asked you about solar panels on the roof or doing a turf roof. Here’s another question: did you give any thought to setting the stove up to open through the hearth wall with an exterior feed so as to avoid bringing dirty wood into your clean sauna? If so, what were the pros/cons for you? I know you went with a Nippa, which has a great reputation. Many of my Finn friends swear Nippa stoves are the best. You may think you overbuilt, but you have a fabulous end result, and as you said are getting your return on time and money invested.

Drains. 4 inch pvc pipe.

2 parts raw linseed oil, 1 part D-Limonene

I started from the dimensions in the plans that were provided with the North House course. I completed the rest of the detailed design myself using Sketchup. It really is a great course. I strongly recommend it. If you're looking for a nice place to stay in Grand Marais, I have a recommendation there as well...

There is another guy on Facebook who's currently building the same sauna. He's posting two two different FB groups: "The Timber Frame Apprentice" and "Sauna Design, Construction and Enjoyment". If you use Facebook, you might consider seeking out those groups. I'm also happy to be a sounding-board.

@@SalemWoodworks Thank you very much!!!

White pine.

They can roll the timber

They do pull unevenly, but it worked.

@@SalemWoodworksthe wax helped