😂

If you can ever get the 64 out of maintenance lmao

Shots fired....

Shot over…

Splash over

Redtail11 1 second ago I have to set all my curves to 45 because how how crappy the HOTAS One is. A deadzone of 8 in all directions for the stick too because it never quite sits in the center. A friggin crime to sell this POS for 100$ if I had spent that much I’d be even more upset but I got it on sale for 60$ so I can’t complain TOO much about how much it sucks.

@Redtail11 Yeah my stick doesn't center perfectly too so I always do a slight left bank in the F18 I have to watch out for (unless I got autopilot on)

Yup!

Wow, said what I wanted to say but better. DCS makes me feel the smooth brain vibes. Every time I learn something new there's like 2 or 3 things at play I also never realized existed....

I cannot call this a layman approach. Trust me, this is the way ACES master any aircraft. They fly with the feel of the aircraft, most newbees fight the aircraft, that's not the way to go. Sense it, just as explained here in this video. It may seem like a layman approach, but I have more than a 1000 flight hours in a ka50, I know this is the way real and seroius pilots master the aircraft, by sensing it.

Glad I could help, and happy flying!

I can only imagine how much actually being in the helicopter and feeling the movement helps too. Missing that feeling of altitude and attitude change probably makes it way tougher to just sit there and hover in place.

Yes! That’s why VR is so much better than 2D - you don’t quite feel it, but it’s much easier to pick up all of the tiny little aircraft movements that are nearly imperceptible in 2D.

Just a suggestion Check out Dcs world Matt Wagner aka Wags videos on the AH-64D if you want to. he also covers in hovering tutorial , rolling take off transition from hovering to takeoff etc...hovering using near, far objects on runway ,tree line mountains etc...plenty of great tips, instruction out there.

@@Mohkin-demon already a fan for years of Matt 😉

@@Mohkin-demon definitely. Wags made some great videos that I know we all watched before the module was released, but most people haven’t gone back to watch them again.

Thank you! And thanks for watching!

Yeah I don’t think it adds anything and, in the helicopter, you don’t see that much - it’s all in your peripheral vision.

Thank you so much! And thanks for watching!

Awesome! Thanks for watching!

same here, volume cranked at 11 and my neighbors didnt appreciate the heavy metal music that was played afterwards at 1am.

@@utley heavy metal? LOL not in my video sir.

@@schoolio64D your video, no. MY video....

What are y'all talkin' about? My favorite song to listen to while flyin' the Apache is "Bodies" by Drowning Pool! ;-)

@@MikeInExile the death metal song written by Celine dion

Those guys are insane! Hovering that close to those lines…no thanks! 😂

I advocated for the trim reset and I understand why; was too easy to trim yourself into an uncommanded roll. Would have been nice to have it at first, but I dont need it either so I get both sides.

@utley seems reasonable, there are things difficult to feel in the sim, there's a lot of sensory input you can't recreate.

@@Pricklyhedgehog72 yep! and one of the best things to get specifically for that is one of andre's vibrating seats

Awesome!

Thanks brother!

How do you reset trim?

@@Thumper770 Trim reset is a poor choice of words since their isn't one. So what I'm actually doing is referencing the flight control indicator and centering the cyclic and peddles then hitting trim. I find this is easiest to do if you lower collective, wait a second then center both at the same time.. this isn't ideal but it's how I do it. It's a combination of lowering collective, aft cyclic, and center peddles, then hit trim. Hope that helps.

Glad it helped! Enjoy flying it!

Needless to say that the quality of your control setup makes a difference in your game/sim experience.

@@schoolio64D hell yeah it dose. Honestly there needs to be a better midrange in flight sim hardware. I had an old Saitek setup from 2007 to 2020. When it went I tried to replace it with a Thustmaster T.16000 setup. Lol that was an eye opener. So I had the opportunity and decided to go all in. I did use a VKB NXT in the interim and that is a good pice of kit. But the amount of persion you can get out of a quality control setup is amazing.

@@sasquatchycowboy5585 I think the TM Warthog used to be midrange, but the prices skyrocketed a few years ago. I use it and it’s a good setup, but I may upgrade in the next year or two to a Virpil or VKB.

@@schoolio64D I like the cams on the VKB alot. I'm using the aviation soft center with the long extension and a 50 sping. It's almost perfect for helicopters. The first time I flew the Mi-24 with it there was an instant improvement in my ability to hover. The Apache would be a real handful with the NXT. But I'm running the Gunfighter with no curves at all. Between the TPRs and the Gunfighter I can really appreciate its responsiveness. But I can control it without much issue. I can hover pretty easily. The Apache just make the setup really shine. I do use the TM warthog throttle. Shit wasn't cheap at all though. It was my military retirement present. I really think the NXT would be a perfect midrange stick if they could Gen an NXT throttle out. I've never tried Viper, but I hear they are pretty awesome. Still pricey. At least with VKB you can get an NXT and their rudder pedals at a decent price.

Thanks! I haven’t messed around with saturation very much. As I said in the video, I think people should find the amount of curve that works for them, especially if they have pedals with a centering spring or detent.

@@schoolio64D I’m the same as a John in that regard. Curves are good to a point then you gotta be careful not to get the fast swing on the extremes, which is where saturation is better. For example the A4 mod is stupidly twitchy, I have 70% Y sat on pitch and roll and it still has a blazing roll rate but seems to be the sweet spot on pitch, I can go full stick and never tip stall. But as you said.. everyone’s set up is different and individuals must find what works best for their set up. 👏👍😎

@@flightsimulatoradventures7246 Good point. I haven't messed around with saturation really at all, so I might have to experiment with that a bit. Relatively new to DCS but not new to helicopters obviously. 👍

I use trim, honestly doing 40-60 miles trips in choppers constantly keeping the pressure on the controls gets tiring lol

@@StoneCoolds You need to de-spring your cyclic 😉

Yeah pedals are definitely a must if you're going to fly helicopters. I don't know if I could work a twist grip very well at all!

@@schoolio64D Well I´m not trained with pedals like you :) But the transition from many years of DCS fixed wing and the KA-50 to AH-64 was a bit weird at first, I thought my stick was broken ! :D And I guess I need to do a hard reset on my muscle memory when I buy pedals, and go back to watch this video again :) But this is far the best module I´ve played, even got my friend to join me as a CPG and it´s awesome.

Thanks for watching! Glad it helped!

I much prefer to fly in VR, but TrackIR/2D is much better for recording videos. Thanks for watching!

Same here, that's the main reason I purchased VR is for the realism in sims.

I got my share of physics when learning to fly, believe me. You probably are also amazed that most Army pilots aren’t required to have college degrees.

I’ll try to get one recorded when I return from vacation. Thanks for watching!

@@schoolio64D awesome! Have a good one!

I did a bit of googling but it's hard to find any clear diagram of what a circuit in an Apachr looks like. I read that the xwind and base leg are flown at 90 kts, downwind at 110. I also saw that the circuit is generally flown at 800 ft AGL with a turn to xwind at 300 ft, be around 450 ft on base leg. Does that sound correct? Also, do you slow down from 90 kts as you turn on final? At what speed do you touchdown during circuits? Soooooo many questions, sorry. Not a chopper guy but the Apache is a lot of fun.

I was actually thinking about doing a video where I demonstrate a low level deceleration, among other things. It’s on the list!

Keep in mind that your pitch and your collective are sorta interlinked. You trade airspeed for lift. So as you pitch up to slow down, you would normally climb, so you take collective out of it to balance it out. If you use the vector indicator, you can use that to essentially set your glide angle if you're coming in for a landing, so you can be pitch up and slowly descending at the same time. Keep in mind that reducing collective is reducing torque, so you'll need to pay out some pedal to compensate for yaw as well, and depending on how hard you pitch and how much collective you're taking out, you may need some right cyclic too. Key is don't let your sink rate drop below about 300 and add collective slowly as you slow down. If the sink rate gets too high, and you pull too much collective or too quickly, you'll lose rotor RPM and thus lose lift even more and you'll drop out of the sky like a rock. Keep your RPMs up and don't make big adjustments to the collective. ALWAYS give the aircraft time to settle and adjust. Nothing happens instantly so always give lead time for any input to take effect. If you notice that you messed up and your sink rate is out of control, DO NOT yank on the collective. That will get you dead. Instead, you will want to right pedal a little and nose the aircraft down a bit to start picking up forward speed. Eyeball a level open space to land if you think you'll run out of room, but hopefully your forward speed will start to give you some lift and you can recover. If you slipped up and pulled collective, take the collective back out of it as you do the above. I know it seems counter-intuitive but your root-cause problem isn't the collective, it's your RPMs. You need to get your RPMs back and reducing the angle of attack on your blades as they cut into the air will allow them to speed up, which will allow the return of lift. Biggest key is, as you slow down, ALWAYS keep a close eye on your sink rate and don't let it get out of control in the first place, because it will, and it will very quickly. Just get in a habit of keeping an eye on it and try not to let it get below -300 in the first place. Also, it's a bad idea in general to get into a positional hold hover in a threat area. Slow down well in advance of where you want to set up to start scanning, and just gently glide in at about 30kts instead of trying to come to a complete standstill. If you have to go defensive and evade, it's better to do so with 30kts under you already than having to take a few seconds to start building up some momentum. By the time you see that ATGM / RPG / whatever, incoming, those few seconds could mean the difference between you getting away and you eating a fireball.

I don’t know about models - I’ve tried them and I’m horrible 😂- but I think the curve is very helpful when learning. I’ve since taken mine out and I feel fine with it, but I’m glad I did it initially.

As I said, you have to find the settings that work best for you. For most folks, that involves a curve. I can tell you that the sensitivity of the pedals with no adjustments to curve or saturation is extreme compared to the actual helicopter.

@@schoolio64D yah that's my problem I have no comparison with real life so maybe what I think is good it's far from it. But thanks anyway for your tips

It definitely takes practice. Keep in mind that anytime you are making a left pedal input, torque will increase as you are using more thrust from the tail rotor. Anytime you make a right pedal input, torque should decrease as well. These won't be large changes, but they can be enough to put you into a bad situation. Cyclic inputs can also lead to torque spikes or drops.

@@schoolio64D ty, and yes i am practicing almost every day, my poor gunner wants me to be a good pilot out of the box so he can get his own practice in

Thanks! And thanks for watching!

Like anything else, it just takes practice.

@Solo6R I honestly don’t have any time flying the Ka-50, so I can’t answer that.

😂 Nah Casmo is the king. I’m just trying to contribute where I can. Thanks for watching!

Hey thanks for watching! For the video used TrackIR, but I use VR when not recording as it picks up every little head movement. VR is fantastic for immersion. I use the Thrustmaster Warthog stick and throttle with a Virpil rotor plus collective and Hawk grip. The Warthog stick works well with plenty of switches.

@@schoolio64D have you looked at the Logitech x-56? i'm trying to build muscle memory for WASing and Hold Modes. Are you using those on the warthog stick? How so? Thanks again.

@@RamadiTaxiDriver60M I haven’t looked at that stick but I know that a lot of people use it. I use a POV hat for the WAS and another 4-direction switch for the trimmer/hold modes. The force trim works, the attitude hold shows up but doesn’t work very well, and altitude hold isn’t implemented yet.

No it’s still classified as an area weapon system. The software has no doubt improved since the 90s, but it’s meant for immediate area suppression.

@@schoolio64D Your awesome buddy, glad you joined our community. If you need help with any fixed wing, hit me up! Mind if I pick your brain for one more question? DCS AH64d Question: Is there a way to quickly re-center the view on the Tedac screen like bore sighting the tgp on the a10, f16, f18, etc. Like the A10 II you can just bind OSB 5 some where now and it'll re-center almost instantly, even from gimbal limits. Thanks!

@@tibsimm absolutely! TSD page, right side, bottom button (R6) should be your acquisition source. Set that to fixed, then press the “slave” button on the right handgrip. It will slave fixed forward, and you can hit it again to De-slave and move the TADS around.

@@schoolio64D hey buddy, 82nd/Ranger E6 8 year here. Mind if I ask what ranks you and Casmo were? Curious if you were warrants, 2 3 or 4, or actual help map reading needing officers lol. Sam

@@tibsimm I won't speak for Casmo - he talks about his long and distinguished career in his own videos. As for me, I did need help reading a map. If you check out my twitch channel, you can find a video there where I'm wearing a Stetson with my current (soon to be retired) rank. I'll just say that the eagle eyes help me navigate now. XD

Thanks! There are videos out there of helo pilots opening bottles with bottle openers attached to the skids...now that's talent!

The Huey and the Gazelle have two different rotor head designs that lead to different control responses (in real life). Bigger rotorcraft tend to have partially or fully articulated heads, whereas smaller aircraft like the Huey have (had) teetering/partially articulated heads that produce reduced control response.

Sure! TM Warthog HOTAS stick, TM Warthog throttle (for power levers and switches), and a Virpil rotor plus base collective with hawk grip. Also have the Logitech/Saitek pedals.

@@schoolio64D many thanks for sharing!

Control-enter I believe.

I was just on and noticed that hovering was a little more difficult than previously, but I can’t blame that on anything in particular. I recently removed all my curves, so it could have been that. Or it could have been the fact that I now have an extension on my cyclic. Or it could have been the bourbon. 🤷‍♂️😂

@@schoolio64D 😂👍 It's the first "game" I've found I'm not better at after whiskey. P.S. I meant I can't keep it stable WITHOUT attitude hold.

The flight model has changed a number of times. Bottom line - push the pedal that you need to push in order to keep the helicopter going the way you want.

Definitely keep practicing. Above 50 feet you are out of ground effect. It takes significantly more power, which takes more pedal, which means more coordination between the two. Keep practicing and you’ll get it.

@@schoolio64D Will do.

I think it depends on what you want to focus on. If you want to focus on employing weapons using the TADS, have George fly. If you want to focus on flying from the backseat, the key is to have the George AI control mapped to something you can access without looking, and learning what George does in each mode. For the backseat (with George in front), it’s not too difficult. For example, I activate the AI menu with a button on my stick, then use a 4-way hat on my collective to control him. Have TADS video displayed on an MPD. Push forward on the hat to slave to the pilot line of sight, and when he finds a target, I have “consent to fire” mapped to another button on my stick. I know that’s not a great answer, but it’s just going to take practice. If you can do it in multiplayer with a human in the front, even better.

​@@schoolio64D Thanks that you took the time to write a reply! How would you suggest to handle the AI in a more dynamic environment? Every video I have watched up to now, dealing with the AI in either role, looked like rather limited scenarios where the player knew exactly where to look for enemy units. Like, for example, some included training missions or single scenarios, where a group of enemy units have been placed around a waypoint. A while back I flew a randomly generated mission with the Ka-50 in a CAS role. The usual "units in proximity with the enemy need support" starting point. I excluded unit icons on the map, so I needed to rely solely on my own recon abilities. When I reached the front-line enemy units were pouring into a town, some as a column, some in an open formation. But also own units from outside the urban area tried to get in. It was so dynamic and a little bit overwhelming. Although I could make out the enemy units with the pre-American Civil War video optics, I wasn't able to get a clear line of sight for the Vikhr`s. So, I had to constantly change my position and go with the "flow" of the battle. And now I'm wondering about how I could approach a similar situation with the George AI? Probably it's really like you mentioned, that I would have to switch between stations ... a lot. Yes, Multiplayer would probably be perfect for this scenario, but on one hand I can only make limited use of a mic at the moment and on the other hand: I really really would like to give the impression that I have at least a little idea about what I'm doing. :-) On a side note: After watching your hover video yesterday I tried it myself at once with switched off IHADSS and it felt very satisfying and raw somehow. I saw a lot of "check your surroundings" comments or the uploader even mentioned it in the video, but I haven't come across any video yet, where the player followed his own advice and switched it off then. ...except you! :-) Thanks for that! It sticks much better when you actually see it, than just reading or hearing about it.

@@XShadowY honestly I just put the TADS video up on the right MPD, point George in the direction I want him to look, and constantly have him slave/scan. It's not very efficient, but it's what we have at the moment. The other option is to have George fly and you do the scanning. Positive ID of targets is really only possible using visual identification if you're not using the F10 map. As an aside, in the AH-64A, unless we were flying at night, we usually didn't wear the HDU. It was only when we transitioned to the AH-64D that we started wearing it both day and night.

​@@schoolio64D Thanks for your help, it's very much appreciated! And please excuse my question-spamming, I'm just looking for an effective way to put the puzzle together. The luxury nowadays of having people around who experienced the aircraft in question and are willing to help is quite precious and an overall new experience. When DCS made the jump from "Lock On" and it felt like there are just three people in the whole world playing the Ka-50 module there was not a lot of reference or tutorial material available to help you learning a new machine. The community has always been great, however. When I merely accidentally hit the "Multiplayer" button and my Ka-50 appeared on a runway, on a random server, another one spawned next to me. I said: "I just purchased the module, I have no idea where is what or what to do!?" And the other guy: "No problem, I can guide you through the cold start routine in no time!" 200 hundred years later and suddenly we have such ressources, amazing! Who would have thought that in the 80`s... :-) Thanks so much!

곡선은 곡선이 없는 것보다 현실에 더 가깝습니다. 스틱 감도는 실제 항공기보다 더 높으며 곡선이 경험을 향상시킨다고 생각합니다.

While I haven’t flown a Robinson, I have flown a 206. I think that this Apache is more touchy than the real thing, but I also attribute part of that to the fact that it’s simulation, and it’s exponentially harder because you don’t have the actual “seat of the pants” feel of the helicopter. VR gives you a little more fidelity than 2D, but it’s still tough.

@@schoolio64D Exactly. Flightsimulations helped me to prepare for a real helicopter, but now I find it easier to fly a real one just because of gravity. At DCS I can at least have a coffee every now and then :-) Thanks for your quick reply! I think they will lower the sensitivity a bit. The downwash in particular is also too strong. It was the same with the Huey back then.

Yup.

😂

This is a video for beginners Sir! 😂

Yes - all helicopters are constantly moving, and you s as the pilot are constantly trying to counter those moves. In a real helicopter, with a little experience, you can start to feel the helicopter begin to move and apply the counter before the helicopter actually moves. The Apache is actually easier because of the control augmentation systems (SCAS) that do a lot of the work for the pilot.

See, now I have a frame of reference. 😂 I’ve never flown a Lakota - I’m old school and flew 67s and 58Cs. The last thing I flew with SAS off was a 60, and it was just sluggish and it was easy to overcontrol until you got used to it. I feel like the DCS 64D is easy to overcontrol, but not because it’s sluggish. I think it’s just because it’s a sim. 🤷‍♂️

@@schoolio64D Thanks for the quick response. I was really wondering if something was wrong with the module's hovering. It feels more wild than the Lakota SAS-OFF with crosswind lol. Still going guns though!

Correct me if I’m wrong but doesn’t the Apache use a Force Trim style SAS? So you press (and hold) the Force Trim Release button, move the cyclic where you want, then release the Force Trim Release button and the mag brakes keep the cyclic at the current position. Then the SAS makes tiny control inputs downstream to counteract minor outside forces (like turbulence) to maintain the pitch and bank attitude you left the cyclic at. The A119 I flew for a couple years had this style of Force Trim and SAS and my EC135 instructor (Apache guy) said it’s pretty similar in the Apache. The EC135 is cool in that below 40 kts it has “follow me trim” and without pressing the force trim release button the SAS automatically senses your control inputs and runs the trim motors to trim out the forces. It’s pretty amazing.

Logitech. They’re…sticky.

It’s an option in the settings menu. I believe it’s the same options page where you can change your trimmer mode.

@@schoolio64D Thanks, I've already found it! It's much more convenient this way.

@@74GreyCat and I think it feels more realistic. When you’re actually wearing the HDU, the only thing you really notice is the tint in the combiner lens during the day.

Yes there is a crab built in to the flight model. Many of us have been asking ED to fix it for some time.

@@schoolio64D Salutes. Thanks for this comment. I was literally loosing my mind and could not understand why helicopter has been designed to fly in cruise with attitude roll or crab in perfect conditions, with forces acting on crew member's spinal cord and butt all over the place but down. Keeping ball in center in a cruise and coordinated turns applies for all aircraft.

If you’re hovering fine, don’t change anything!

@@schoolio64D well out of curiosity I tried 24 curv and wayyyy to slopy. But happily found that 6curv might be a new preference over 0. It's not much of a change but I suspect the long throw of the Virpil cyclic controller is probably why 0 to 6 works so well.

R-CTRL + Enter

Absolutely. Not sure why.

Thanks! I'll fix that for the next one.

It should as long as you’re on a runway, ramp, or taxiway. If you’re trying to do it from grass it will take a lot more power. Typically you should only need about 25% to start rolling. Is the parking brake still set?

I don’t fly with any curves anymore - haven’t in quite some time. I tried flying with the trim off, but that shouldn’t disable the FMC (but it flies like it DOES disable it). When you turn off each axis individually, it doesn’t change anything - you still get the saturated message.

@@schoolio64D yes, i don't like the curves either. The only axis-tune I have is the dead zone of 2 on my rudders because I always rest my feet on them. Thanks for the response.

@@fady904 when I first made the video, the flight model was a lot more sensitive and difficult to fly. As they’ve made some adjustments to the model, I was able to take out the curves. The FM still isn’t perfect, but it’s better than it was at the beginning. Thanks for watching!

But why? 😂

@@schoolio64D joystick is boxed up somewhere only had my pedals and I wanted to fly but was curious to know if anyone was able to do it.

@@waynerivett6214 I haven’t tried but it’s definitely possible. I know there are others who do it. It’s probably a little more difficult, but if that’s how you’re able to enjoy it, then that’s awesome! Thanks for watching!