who knew🤣🤣

😂

lol

Thats the case on every car genius😂

ah see the one in this video is one of those fancy new transmissionless cars, it wirelessly transmits torque to the wheels

Yes, that works well to install the seal.

Worth a try. Sometimes they are damaged or they may not be solid enough. I like the idea and I will give it a try the next rear main seal I replace.

Or use a Nylon hammer

Another good idea however a nylon hammer may not have enough impact force to drive the seal in.

Good idea

@@danielweeks3723 when getting the seal out never screw it at the bottom always do it on top so if leak it wont leak up there.

I'm glad this worked for you.

Glad I could help.

I'm glad the video was helpful to you.

@@DrivelineMaster I have a ford bronco 1987 4.9l do I have to take off that transmission or we’re are located that rear main seal

Yes, the transmission will have to be removed to gain access to the rear main seal.

@@DrivelineMaster ok thank you very much

rear mains are easy, getting the tranny out of the way is where the fun begins.

Yea, it works great. You just have to be careful not to nick the side of the housing.

Only if you can keep the self tapping screw from walking. It's not very hard to stop drilling once you have drilled through the metal part of the seal.

Using self-tapping screws here sound like a terrible idea to be honest. But hey if it works for you.

if one is available and often these are kits with an oversize inside diameter seal. Another trick is to install the seal a little farther into the housing basically repositioning the location of the seal sealing surface on the crankshaft surface.

Except carpenter hammers are not a common tool in an auto repair facility so I used what I had.

It should but I'm not 100% certain.

Perfect except a claw hammer is more often found in a carpenters tool box than a professional technicians tool box but if you have one around it will work great.

It won’t affect it but don’t throw it straight at it either

Agree

Lol I remember a mechanic bring in a part for the 3rd time and trying to blame the stock. I asked him a few questions one was if he used brake cleaner to which he replied yes. I told him to never use that for gasket seal prep and to use starter fluid. Told him I'll warranty the part one last time but I won't again since he now knows the proper way to clean mating surfaces--never saw him again for that part.

8

Sorry for the late reply. I only removed the transmission and left the engine in the vehicle.

@@DrivelineMaster no worries I actually ended up doing that thank you so much!

I had to look this up. The micro sleeve is designed to repair the surface of the crankshaft if it is damaged. It is not needed for most crankshaft seal replacements. It looks pretty cool if your crank sealing surface is damaged this looks like a great way to save the crank.

That is pretty awesome.

Yes in most cases you should. There are some rear main seals that come with instructions that say not to lubricate. If that is the case follow the instructions and don't lubricate.

Any yet is works if done correctly so believe it. I have been installing metal clad seals for all applicatios for 40 years with a hammer and if it's done correctly with care it works just fine. An old seal or a large piece of pipe also works.

yeah that does not work on these 4.0 motors, best way to insure u only have do it once is to get a factory 2 part seal with metal sleeve and get the install tool. Had done many seals this way, but this DOES NOT work on these motors. U will be doing it over if do it like this!!! GOOD LUCK!!

Yes, you could use this method for a front crank seal however this is more challenging because the seal is much smaller. You may need smaller screws. Additionally, often the crankshaft extends out from the seal creating access limitations. BTW.... This can also be used for Camshaft seals as well. The Lisle seal puller tool I show in this video works fairly well for front crank seals and camshaft seals and the cost is reasonable. Lisle tool # 58430 $14.00 on amazon.

@@DrivelineMaster Is the rear main on the driver side behind the flywheel? I haven't gotten to it yet with the colder weather, but it's looking to warm up a little this coming week. I'm going to be replacing the rear main, crankshaft seal, cam seals, and of course the valve cover gasket. Also, are there any others I should replace while I have the car taken apart that could lead to leaking oil?

Yes the rear main is behind the flywheel and the transmission has to be removed. You did also say the front crank seal correct? If the engine is out of the vehicle I would put a new oil pan gasket on as well. If not, the oil pan gasket can be quite difficult on some vehicles while the engine is still in the vehicle. I'm not familiar how hard it is on a ford focus. I would also check and or replace the PCV valve because this valve directly relates to crankcase pressure and if its not flowing correctly it will cause excessive crankcase pressures and blow out your seals again.

I have never had a problem but if you look closely I never put the brake clean directly on the seal. I clean the surfaces on the crankshaft, block and the outer metal portion of the metal clad seal. I also don't soak the seal in brake clean I only wipe off the oil and dirt. Seals are also not straight rubber but instead a specific composition designed for specific applications and lubricants. So with 40 years in the automotive industry using one form of brake clean or another to de-grease seals and sealing surfaces I have never had a comeback cause by the use of de-greaser or brake clean being use to clean a sealing surface. Before clicking send on this message I decided to do a little research. I used google to search for: "does brake cleaner damage rubber seals" and found a number of articles that support that brake clean does not harm rubber in fact it is formulated not to. Think about it, brake clean is designed to be used on all sort of brake stuff and those often contain rubber like caliper and wheel cylinder dust boots. Not sure where your foreman got his/her/they information but you may want to point your foreman to the many articles that can be found on a search engine stating that brake clean does not harm rubber. Good luck.

The guy in the video was me and I double checked the video time stamp 2:57 and you can see I do place the tool so the hook is facing the spring. The tool comes with no instructions manual and this is the only way it can be used. Yes, caution needs to be used not to scratch the crankshaft. I have used this tool wit success with as you noted seals that are not in too tight. I have had better luck with camshaft seals and front crankshaft seals but not so much with rear main seals. I have broken several tool tips and have a supply of spare tips. There really is no other way to use this tool.

No, that has been mentioned before. That is a lubrication drain back hole designed into the housing. It was just luck that I drilled in the same location.

He drilled right through the block. You can check out other videos and there is no hole there on any of the other 4.0 rear main replacement videos

30+ years of using white lithium grease on oil seals. It does not eat the seals. Seals are often a combination of rubber and nitrile base products. They are not 100% rubber. Red grease can be lithium based just as white grease is so the color doesn't really matter. Silicon spray will work but it won't prevent the garter spring from popping out from the impact of the hammer during installation. This is one of the main reasons for the grease. You don't have to use white lithium just as long as you use some type of grease so the spring doesn't pop out and the seal is lubricated.

Unless you are directed to install a seal in a specific direction or to not lubricate the seal which is possible in some unique cases. For the most part all metal clad seals such as this rear main seal are always installed this way. The lips on the seals are designed to hold the oil in and if you flip the seal around it would leak.

Yep, but it too doesn't always work. That tool was designed for dent repair on body work.

The only place I could find one like this is at WIT www.wittrans.com I downloaded the auto trans catalog and on page 1428 for tools. You can call them at 1-800-940-0197. There is no tool number just a description. Lib Seal Tool. They sometimes give them away at trade shows. I'm sure that is where I got mine.

Liquid wrench Air tools And elbow grease gets any bolt off... trust me I get them off E-350 turbo stroke diesel sometimes you gotta add a pry bar to your wrench to get the proper leverage

That should be fine. Two reasons for lubricating the seal. 1) is for the lip surface so it slides easily and is not damaged during the installation. 2) behind the seal on the guarder spring. The grease helps to prevent the spring from popping out when the seal is installed with a hammer. There are some specialized rear main seals that specifically tell you not to lubricate them. These seals will come with those instructions in the package.

No. The level of the oil is lower than the crank and seal.

1/4" of an inch is a lot but it might still be OK. I'm a bit surprised the seal cavity was that deep.

DrivelineMaster I might be exaggerating as I didn’t measure. More like 1/8 I think. Just inside the lip that curves outward.

1/8" is not a problem. You should be just fine.

I have something that is called "Shim in a can" which is a roll of thin brass or steel that is 0.004" thick. This can work to protect the seal.

@@DrivelineMaster Good staff, also if seal is as large, just place in domestic freezer over few hrs, works wanders.

This repair is done with the engine still in the vehicle and the transmission or gear box and clutch assembly removed. This technique is not needed if the engine has been removed and placed on an engine stand. If the engine has been removed it's most likely for more repairs than just a rear main engine seal.

If you know what you're doing, this should only take 3-5 hours, 5 being if you run into any snags or have stubborn transmission bolts that are hard to break loose. Removing the engine does nothing but add a lot of unnecessary work a full day even two days worth of work depending on the engine (size and number of accessories that has to be unhooked) plus will cost more because you have to refill the cooling system. In my 97' GMC dually, I've done it in 2.5 hours start to finish. 6.5L V8 diesel with a 4L80E. No need to completely remove the transmission either. Just need to slide it back, let the bell housing end rest on the cross member and support the back with a jack stand. If you're not capable of handling a transmission by yourself in an inverted position I would highly recommend getting some help. I do mine by myself and that 4L80E is a bear of a transmission.

@@charlesstevenson5141 use hummer torque tool . 3/8 in and this will take even front crank pulley bolt, no s**t

I'm unclear as to your question. I didn't use anything to loosen it. I tried to show off the KD seal removal tool that didn't work but it didn't loosen it. (it's now sold by Lisle #58430) I then showed you the technique that has always worked for me which is,two screws and a pry bar. Feel free to write back and clarify your question. By the way, i have used the Lisle tool on camshaft seals and it works great for smaller seals.

@@DrivelineMaster please do not answer any stupid question, you are doing great buddy.

Glad to hear.

Really old and hard seals can cause grooves in the metal surface. Yes you can try to remove them with fine emery paper. Nothing coarser than 320 and finish with 400 and or 600. You can also try installing the seal in a slightly different position. Instead of flush with the housing try insetting it if you can by 1/6" or 3/32" so the seal will ride on the crankshaft in a different position.

thank you very much! I was hopeless because some mechanics advised me to change the crankshaft

Please read the comments. So many people have thought that I drilled through the housing that I put this in the comments. I did not drill through the housing. If you watch it would have taken much more drilling and you would have seen aluminum metal shavings from the drill. It just so happened that I picked a spot to drill where the oil return hole existed so it looked like I could have drilled into the housing. Also note that the hole in the housing is larger than the drill I used.

Rear main seals will start out small but the only way to catch them at this stage is during an inspection. if the transmission has been removed for a clutch or other work this is a good time to inspect the rear main seal. Signs of seepage indicate a replacement will prevent a larger more costly leak later. more often than not the small leak is not noticed because it's difficult to perform inspections. The leaks become larger and oil loss and dripage on the ground draw attention that something needs to be fixed. By this time it's a fairly large leak.

@@DrivelineMaster my car uses a quart every week. My trunk is full of oil containers. I noticed what appears to be old seepage around the valve cover. Will replacing it's gasket be a complete waste of time and money?

Oil consumption is either leaking externally or being burned internally or both. This needs to be figured out. Heavily leaking valve cover gaskets could be your total problem however I don't know the age of your truck and often older vehicles will leak from more than one location. Start by watching your tail pipe right after starting your engine after it has been sitting over night. Right after the engine starts rev it up an down a few times while watching the tailpipe for a white/blue smoke. The blue indicates the presents of oil being burned. If the blue smoke goes away after 5 - 10 minutes of running the oil is most likely entering the cylinder through the valve guide seals. If the blue smoke continues even when the engine is fully warmed up and puffs more when letting off the gas after revving up the engine this would indicate a worn engine cylinder and piston rings. Have someone follow you as you drive. Sometimes the blue smoke is more noticeable during driving. These are test the won't cost anything. Next look for external leaks. If you are leaking that much oil the underside of the engine is most likely an oily mess. Step 1, get the engine steam cleaned to clean off all the oil from every area of the engine. Next step, run the engine and look for oil leaks. Oil runs from high on the engine down so look for oil leaking from the highest location on your engine. There are kits where you can add florescent dye to the oil and use a black light with yellow glasses to locate new oil that is leaking out. You need to assess all the places where the oil is leaking out to determine if the repair cost are worth it for you to fix it. Even cheap oil these days is $4.00 to $5.00 a quart not to mention the damage that can occur to your engine if you run it low on oil. If you can't do this pay a qualified automotive technician to assess your oil consumption and provide you with a quote to fix all your leaks. The cost to fix might be more than the truck is worth however if the rest of the truck is in good condition, you know what you have. If you buy another used vehicle you could be purchasing a vehicle that will need expensive maintenance or repairs in the near future. You could buy a newer used truck or a new truck but ask yourself. are you going to spend $20,000.00 to $40,000 for a new truck to fix a $1,500 problem on a truck that is only worth $1000.00. Keep in mind I have no clue how old your truck is or what it is worth let alone how much it will cost to fix your truck. Those numbers are just examples of things to think about. I hope this helps.

The reason for using grease instead of oil is because the thick grease helps to keep the grater spring from popping out during installation. Because the seal is being installed with a hammer or an impact device this can cause the grater (tension) spring to pop out of location. I have had this happen before and it means that I have to remove the seal to fix it. This often damages the new seal forcing the purchase of a second new seal. When I'm working on something off the vehicle and I can install a seal with a press (provides constant pressure and not hammering impact pressure) I normally use the same lubricant of what ever it is I'm working on. 45 years of using grease and specifically white grease without any known failures or come backs. I think it is save to use white grease in this application.

That one rubber hammer bro

Nope. I only drilled through the metal part of the seal. It just so happens that there was a hole right behind where I drilled. That hole is supposed to be there and it was much larger than the drill I used.

@@DrivelineMaster but that was just luck right? Or you knew exactly where that hole was?

That was indeed just luck but I knew how far the drill should go in and how much resistance I should meet. It's not hard to tell when you have drilled through the thin metal housing of the seal and when to stop drilling.

Yes, there will be signs of oil and dirt collected to the oil around the seal. This fix will not impact the performance of the engine but it will keep the oil in the engine so you don't run out and damage the engine or leak on your driveway.

@@DrivelineMaster i have to get mines done asap that and the engine oil pan gasket and motor mounts

This too works well

Yes you can use oil. It is important to use a grease on the back side of the seal where the spring is. The grease here will help to keep the spring from popping out from the impact of the hammer. This can happen if grease is not used and if this happens the seal will leak. This is true for all seals of this design. If the seal is being installed with a press or something other than a hammer grease is not needed and oil will do just fine. The grease does not have to be white grease but that is what I have been using for many years with zero problems.

@@DrivelineMaster thanks for the quick comment! Turns out I did have white grease so I used that, and I wished my old seal would’ve came out as easy as in the video. Turns out the inside was lined with steel. I got it and got my new one in, but I’m really stressing over the fact if it sealed properly or not. I can’t imagine putting everything back in and up in my Ranger and having a big leak. The outside has little visible damage from hitting it in, and I’m not sure if there’s such thing as hitting the seal in too far… stupid I know… hopefully I didn’t mess up I uploaded a short video of my seal in there and it would be great if you would take a look and get back to me if it’ll pass off or not! (It’s pretty tight in there btw)

Can you send me a link to your video? or even some snap shots. I will look at them and give you my feedback. Technically the best way to install that seal that minimizes any chance of damage would be to have a piece of pipe the the proper inside and outside diameters and hit on the pipe instead of the seal. It's just too difficult to have that many sizes around the shop. PVC will also work. It's OK if the seal is driven in just a little but deeper than being flush but it should not be more than 1/16" below the surface. Better to replace the seal a second time now if it's not right than to have to take the trans out again. Sometimes it's possible to run the engine before putting the trans back in to check for a leak if you have a manual transmission. Not so much with an automatic because it needs the weight of the torque converter to act as a flywheel.

@@DrivelineMaster makes sense. My seal is chamfered inwards so it was really hard to do that without making contact on the crank and around it. It’s definitely a little more than 1/16 of the way in but like I said it’s very tight and I shined my light around the lip and it looks like it’s very well sealed. And yes I agree it might be worth it to put the flywheel and starter back up to letr run for a few but I’m waiting on some flywheel bolts so I can’t really do that atm. Here is my video, hopefully I caught the right angles for how short it is: m.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iduYiph83ZOam2g.html

@@DrivelineMaster actually, that video was only half for some reason. This is the better one: m.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oqpincWVtafPpYU.html

I can not speak to your specific circumstance but I would like to take a moment to explain something. The PCV valve and hose stand for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Obviously the dealer missed this problem and this was most likely the root cause. If the crankcase is not properly ventilated pressure will build up in the crankcase and cause all kinds of seals and gaskets to leak. So it is possible the rear main seal was leaking but what is obvious is the PCV system was not doing it's job and if the seal was leaking the failure of that seal was most likely cause be the bad PCV system. BTW if you are saying your were charged $3,100.00 to replace a rear main seal this sounds grossly expensive for almost any vehicle. For many cars the oil light comes on way too late. Sometimes the engines only have 1 quart or less before the light comes on. Driving the vehicle for even a few minutes after the light comes on can cause catastrophic failure. For anyone reading this, if your oil light comes on, pull over immediately and call for a tow truck or park the vehicle until you can return with at least 5 quarts or motor oil. I'm sorry your dealer obviously did you a poor service.

Oh, man. Bad deal. I can't trust them anymore either after the 'professionals' ruined my transmission. I feel ya!

Oh how I wish my viewers would sometimes read the description. I got so many comments about this I put that answer in the description. That hole is an oil drain back hole and it was already there. Look carefully, the size of my drill and the drain back hole are obviously different. Plus it would have taken a whole lot more drilling to go through that block that it did to go through the seal. It just happened that I drilled right where that hole was. I wish I hadn't so viewers wouldn't think that I drilled into the block.

I'm sorry I do not know that answer.

Absolutely, we all have hockey pucks around the shop.

Almost all seals are 3/8" to 1/2" deep. You can always look at the new seal. the metal part of all of these seals is almost always only about 1/16" so you don't need to drill very far. Even if you go through the metal seal part and nick the housing behind it, you won't cause any problems. You can just tell when you get through the first metal part of the seal. You will feel the drill give in a bit and then go in further without even turning the drill on. If drilling holes are new to you I can understand not having that feel and knowledge of breaking through the first metal part of the seal. As far as the screw, screw it in the depth of the new seal which is again about 3/8" to 1/2".

Screws will permanently damage the mating surface and any shop worth your money would fire any mechanic doing this ON THE SPOT.

It's called the rear main engine oil seal. It could be called the rear crankshaft oil seal. This seal is of a group of seals that are referred to a metal clad type seals but not all rear main oil seals are of the metal clad design. I hope that is what you were asking.

Yes of course. This would be a much longer video if I included that part of the job.

@@DrivelineMaster uy

I'm sorry but this has a 149 MPH enhancement limit.

I'm sorry, this was too long ago for me to remember. I should have noted that at that time but didn't.

Oh my gosh. The outer edge absolutely needs to be completely dry otherwise the seal will pop out on you. The outer edge is a static seal which means there are no moving parts. You would not soak a valve cover or oil pan gasket in oil before installing it. The same goes for metal clad seals like this crank seal or a camshaft seal or an axle seal. It's ultra critical that the outer edge and static seal is as clean and free of oil and grease to ensure a good seal and to ensure that it fits tight and doesn't pop out.

@@DrivelineMaster Couple years of experience here never had a problem so far. The oil is wipe away clean during instalation process.

@@DrivelineMaster PTFE seal is a dofferen story though...

44 years of experience here and I'm telling you, I think you have been lucky that you have not had a come back at least not one you know about. The oil is not completely wiped away and there will still be a thin film on the seal. Even it if was completely wiped away I would then ask what was the purpose of using the oil at all if it's just going to be wiped away upon installation? You wouldn't oil up a valve cover or oil pan gasket before you install it. You want clean and dry for the best possible seal. Obviously you can keep doing it your way but I advise against it and I would suggest that you rethink your process.

@@DrivelineMaster Holly smoke 44 years of experience! I will rethink may procedure then. Thank you master 🙏🙏🙏🙏

Not all rear main seals are designed the same and I can't be certain if your jeep uses this design. Go to the parts store and look at the seal. If it looks similar than you are good to go. If the new seal comes pre-installed into an aluminum housing then this method will not work and you will have to remove the oil pan in addition to the transmission to replace seals designed like that.

Normal grease should not harm the seal.

No this is not a Dodge.

I put the screw where it was easiest. I really doesn't matter there is very little oil trapped in the seal and as soon as the seal is pulled out what ever oil is in there comes out anyway. it's so little it's not an issue.

Yes, I screwed up by not showing to do that. Of course that only works if the old seal is intact enough to do so.

No, not always. Typically the seal should be installed at the same depth as the one taken out. Same goes for replacing bushings.

@@DrivelineMaster You do make a good point.

It works on most cars. The engine has to have a metal clad type seal that can be removed from the back side. Some designs are not metal clad or they don't remove from the back side. I'm sorry I can't tell you which exact vehicles this method will or will not work on. Sometimes I can tell by looking at the service manual information.

@@DrivelineMaster I have a 97 f150 4.6 not many videos about changing it.

I used this picture from ebay ( www.ebay.com/itm/174283156001?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=174283156001&targetid=1645685073568&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032064&poi=&campaignid=20398902184&mkgroupid=153051693033&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073568&abcId=9317281&merchantid=113792266&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhuXuv_GOgQMVE9HCBB31WA4IEAQYByABEgLDWvD_BwE ) to determine that my method will work just fine for this vehicle. The seal will remove from the back side and it is a metal clad type of seal. When you buy a new seal it will include the gasket for the housing that is shown in the picture. The beauty of my method is that you don't have to remove that seal housing or the oil pan. If you remove that housing you also need to remove the oil pan to properly reseal the bottom of the seal housing.

Just note that there are a few rear main seal designs that you can do this way. With those the trans, flywheel and oil pan have to be removed. If you give me the year, make and model I can look that up for you as long as it's a model sold in the United States.

@@DrivelineMaster jeep wrangler 2012

@@DrivelineMaster I guess trans flywheel need to be out

Yes, the trans and flywheel have to be removed. Based on a 2012 Jeep with a 3.6L engine and the information I have it looks like the technique I show in the video with using the screw to pull the seal out will indeed work. The service manual says to remove the seal housing but it is unnecessary work if you follow my instructions. One note, If you can find something large and round with a hole in the middle to install the new seal it's better than just hitting it with a hammer like I did. It can be done my way as long as your good with a hammer and careful.

I'm sorry I don't know this and seals are not 100% rubber but instead a compound so I guess it would depend on the compound of the seal and the chemical in the carb cleaner. If you want to use carb cleaner the same way I used brake Klen in the video I don't thing there would be a problem.

I don't remember for sure but I don't think so. There are a lot of engines that use this style rear main seal.

Valid points however I didn't even know that hole was there when I started. So it's not expected knowledge even from a seasoned professional. It would be almost impossible to snap the drill bit. The metal on the seal is only about 0.015" thick. Once the hole is through the seal there is no resistance and it's clear you can stop drilling and remove the drill. Also my videos are designed to be slightly above the average person with zero experience in the use of tools and basic mechanic skills. They are designed for inspiring mechanics and home mechanics with some experience and understanding of mechanics and the use of tools. I like to educate as well as show how to do some jobs or tasks so others can learn from me.

The leak wasn't caused by adding the grease. Something else went wrong with the installation. That really sucks I'm sorry to hear that your new installation is leaking. As a secondary measure since you normally can't inspect the seal while it's running because the transmission is installed there are other leak areas that can run down in that area and simulate a rear main seal leak. Check above the rear main seal. There could be valve cover, intake manifold, oil galley and oil pressure switch. All sometimes can leak in the rear area of the engine and simulate a rear main seal leak.

Well Yea...... The drill bit shavings don't go into the engine if you are thinking they did.The spiral flute pulls the shavings out not putting them in.

Old habits. I know it works and doesn't cause any problems. You can use any other type of grease.

Claw hammers are not a common tool in an auto shop. Home shop or constructions site, yes but not a auto shop.

You are correct. The seal was not leaking. The transmission was removed to replace the clutch. The engine had 183,000 miles on it and the customer wanted the seal replaced as preventive maintenance since it was easy to do while the transmission was out.

@@DrivelineMaster does this make the engine run better

@@chiefbubba2581 no

@@chiefbubba2581 all it does is keep it from going bad

Don't let looks fool you.

Shouldn't cause a problem

That is not good. Oh, no. The seal can leak and pop out causing a huge leak. The outer part of the seal creates a static seal between the housing and the seal. That area should always be dry and clean as possible. That part has to be a tight fit.

I misunderstood when I first replied that it would not be a problem.

You want friction to hold the seal in place on the outer edge, but lubrication between the seal and the crank

It kind of does look like that but if you look carefully when the drill punctured the outer metal casing of the seal I stopped drilling. Then look at the hole behind where I drilled. It is larger than the bit I used. This is the oil return hole that is part of the engine design. I just happen to pick that spot to drill by sheer luck. Your not the only one who thought I drilled into the engine and caused damage.

Depends on the vehicle and type of transmission.

@@DrivelineMaster 2013 ford f150 5.0l

Same

That sometimes works.

It's one of those things that if you find something that has worked for you without any problems you continue doing it. I have been using White grease for over 40 years on engine and drive line seals without a problem. Remember these seals are a rubber compound designed with characteristics to work with oil, grease and petroleum products. Unlike radiator hose rubber or drive belt rubber where petroleum products will destroy them. Silicone grease might be a slightly better choice but I don't believe there is a problem with using white lithium grease or even wheel bearing grease on these metal clad seals that are designed for automotive engine, transmission, wheel bearing and differential use.

Cant you just use engine oil to lubricate the seal?

@@gbolts30 Yeah sure if you've got nothing else oil is fine

Not all rear main seals are of this design and not all will pull out from the back side like this one. If it is a metal clad seal designed to pull out from the back like this one they are made out of thin sheet metal and drill easily like this one. I'm sorry this was not clarified better in this video.

You can screw anything up without care even using a flat blade screwdriver. Some seals are in really hard and leveraging with a flat blade can damage the housing or the crankshaft, that is if you can even get the proper leverage to force the seal out with the screwdriver. This method works really well but with everything you need to proceed cautiously.

Then either the problem your trying to fix is not caused by the rear main seal or if the problem is an oil leak then either the seal was damaged or improperly installed or the surface on the crankshaft is damaged and no longer smooth and the crank is damaging the new seal. It's also possible the housing that the seal sits in is damaged causing an oil leak. Are you trying to solve an oil leak? Are you 100% certain it's coming from the rear main and not running down from some other seal above it such as a valve cover gasket or oil galley or camshaft plug? If you are 100% certain the problem is the rear main seal then you need to remove it and carefully inspect the crank and seal housing surfaces for damage. If there is no damage try to follow my instructional video only before you install your new seal go to a hardware store and see if you can purchase a short piece of pipe or PVC that as the inner and outer diameter of your seal. You can use this to install the seal. Instead of hitting on the seal put the pipe on the seal and hit on that. Also double check your new seal. Some rear main seals are supposed to be installed dry with no lube. If this is the case there should be instructions in the package telling you not to lubricate the seal.

@@DrivelineMaster Thank you sir

Classic

miami mechanics do be a pain

Year, make and model and I will try to look them up for you.

@@DrivelineMaster allgood mate I did 90ftlb . Just for safety .