I'm looking to create an upcoming Q&A - if you would like to know anything about past, present and future please drop any questions below!! Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe 😁

That’s an OHC engine. There are no pushrods.

Well done, Rye. I’m getting pissed off with the armchair experts 🙄 (I’m not that pissed off 😂). I did three years at college back in the day as an HGV mechanic, and was nurtured by an old school expert that molded me in to someone who knew how to sort things out. It takes years of interest and patience to get to the point where this stuff becomes second nature. I’m a builder now but I still sort out all my own vehicles. I was in a garage where I had all the best tools at my disposal, and sometimes no matter what, things weren’t easy! You’re doing a fine job. Everything you do is a learning experience. I’d recommend an oxyacetylene torch (more expense). You can get some heat on the head bolt right around the block and some Stilsons (and an extension bar if needed). Clean out with a thread tap. Get some verniers to check the size of the bolt and a thread gauge to make sure you use the right tap (relatively cheap). Listen bro, someone with your interest and passion will prevail, it’s just time.

That stuck bolt, cut it down a bit. Then weld a nut on it. Heat it up and keep soaking it for a few days. Patience will save you time. Good luck fella

great project. keep at it. Please be careful when prying against a sealing surface with a screwdriver. It may damage the surface and prevent sealing after reassembly. A better way is to use a soft mallet or brass punch.

After this I need to go to RRC to relax and see the job done right.

7:41. " We find this engine has pushrods & rocker-arms." It is an OHC head. The rockers are operated directly by the camshaft. Engines with pushrods have a cam lower down in the crankcase. But you did well ! Good video ! Trinidad & Tobago. West Indies.

There's so much to unpack here.

Never thought i'd feel sorry for a superdream, especially the classic pushrod ones.

eat humble pie and ask Matt (dirty garage guy)

I think it’s a shame you took the engine apart you could have just cleaned it as it was and gave it a paint. Keep something original is always the best way unless it needs rebuilding and in this situation it didn’t, bad move 😢 bro.

Couple ways with that bolt now. Few people have mentioned welding but that’s not a workshop jobby that’s a take it somewhere for the weld jobby. I’d suggest bending that bolt close to the base for leverage and then twist. Add some heat too and some GT spray.

The cam-chain might indicate it may not be a push rod valve train 🤔 keep at it boet, good luck with it 👍🏻

Had hectic day today I must say and you saved it! Couldn't imagine better end of the day and I'm glad to see you back! 💪💪🏍🏍

Just got to love an amateur struggling with the basics!! Get a gas axe , and some brake fluid mixed with diesel , and throw that GT 85 in the bin. Never used or needed such crap in 40 years

GT85 is great stuff, that's my go to now instead of WD40.

Don't give up! love watching this. More please :)

An old farmers trick: heat the bolt at the base and get a birthday cake candle (or other candle you can jam in the join between bolt and casing). The heated thread will draw the wax down into the case through capillary action. Once you've got the wax in there to displace the grime and sludge you only need to find a way of gripping the stud and turning it....

_So nice how You apologize to the CB250 engine, but it doesn't go out like You want .... nasty bike._

To get the front wheel axle out you put the nut on to protect the tread when hitting it with a piece of wood, to also protect it, hit it really lightly, then take the nut off to properly hit it??? I hope that thread now isn’t fucked!

nope, single overhead cam operating on 3 valves per cylinder.

Main thing with extracting seized bolts is to heat the metal that the bolt is screwed into so that it expands off the bolt - you don't directly heat the bolt itself, as that makes the bolt expand and makes it tighter! When a bolt continues to be tight whilst unscrewing, often it is actually pulling the thread off the aluminium it is screwed into. It was difficult to see the thread on the bolt you showed us, but I wonder if rather than the bolt thread being knackered, it was just clogged with smeared aluminium - in which case the thread in the crankcase will need repairing.

Good video mate.

Ahh yes the classic honda SOHC pushrod engine 😂

As one of your original subscribers who watched you hoon around on a tuned up Street Triple 765, can't believe how you've got all the way to 50k subs!!! That's a lot in the UK - you must be doing something right mate!!! 😁😁👍👍

I had the exact same bolt snap on me as well. I had to take the engine to the local Honda dealer who removed it after a lot of effort. I had to order a head bolt from David Silver spares. Just saw off the stand pivot and get a new one.

Oh.. David silver.. Youl need that name for you rebuild 😉

Pushrods? Time to leave.

Love the content. All a great learning curve for you as well. It's now time you invest in a cheap mig welder. The head bolt is the perfect way for you to put it to good use. Weld a nut on it let the heat do its thing and continue to unwind it. If it shears again. No sweat weld another one on. If still no luck then, cut flush and drill it out. Honestly a tig welder would be better as no spatter. But cover it all up. Also use some anti spatter spray for any wild bits that go where there not wanted. As for the frame. Plenty of heat and patience. Up the RYE 🎉

I used GT85 recently to remove an old gasket that had been on my bike since 1982, it done a better job than the dedicated stuff for that job

keep going, love the show very interesting🤞👍

Heat the stud up till almost glowing, then leave it cool to room temp. Then get a stud extractor, and as low. As possible attach to stud n remove, good luck 👍

Give the broken stud a squirt of easing oil at regular intervals like every 10 minutes or so. It's taken decades to weld itself in with corrosion so it's going to take some patience to get it going again. I usually find that working a stiff bolt to and fro helps to loosen it - if it tightens up while you're turning....well; you know the rest so back it off again and re-group. The stand pivot as well - give it time to soak and keep re-applying the easing oil - hit it both sides to encourage it to break free.

Great progress as most have said heat and lube, out of interest does the centre stand have a c clip at one end. I have a similar dilemma as I need to remove a bent centre stand from 1980s cb100n

The last engine bolt....loads of heat, then shock cool it (pack rags around top of crankcases and spray cold water particularly on to the stud and it should held break the corrosion bond). Loads of heat again and then use vice grips clamped as tight as you can physically shut them and start loosening the stud. If it remains very tight when loosening it, tighten for half a turn, then loosen one turn, then tighten again for half a turn then loosen one turn.....repeat this for as long as the loosening process remains tight.

Some unnecessary sarcastic comments on here , we all make mistakes , we know he is learning as he goes , thats the magic of this channel , love it 👏👏👏👏

Heat, heat, HEAT!☝️

Honestly you’re developing not only skills but patience as well. Trials and tribulations, I’m here for the whole build and ride. Keep up the great work👏 Also your filming and editing is getting quite good.

You could have vapour blasted the engine as a complete lump without stripping it at all, you just need to seal off any holes, sparkplugs, inlet ports, breathers,ect and it would have looked like new. It would also help if it ever needed stripping at a later date being clean and free of corrosion.

Great channel mate. I've watched all your posts so far.... only thing that would make it better is the phrase you use to describe the CYLINDER HEAD, Not a head cylinder as you call it...😂 The things you are learning is all the thi gs we all have to go through when messing with bikes that are...older.. Good luck with the Super Dream.

As mentioned already cut the stud to about 50mm. Use a dye set and cut a thread on too the stud. Put a nut on to this after grinding of the plating on the top and bottom of the nut. Weld the top and bottom of the nut to the stud. While the stud is hot from the welding use plus gas or any penetrating spray at the base of the stud, this will help the penetrating spray to get into the thread. You now have a short bolt heat the base of the bolt and now remove with a socket. May be helpful to heat the stud and put plus gas on it a few times every day before you attempt to remove it. An engineering firm will also remove the stud without damaging it. They don’t charge an arm and a leg. This method however has worked for me on engines where the studs were snapped before I got it.

Heat and bend into an Alan key shape and simply turn with your mole grips!😁

I had a used bike and used parts shop in Blackpool, we sold many suoerdreams to commuter car drivers who wanted cheap transport, the 250 was sold as “boringly reliable” by my shop lol 😂 maybe the easiest engine you will ever work on. (As I write this your head bolt snaps) 😮The bottom part of the tank usually leaked 😮 that was annoying. Stud will come out blow lamp and maul grips

Lots of 250 superdreams were abandoned early in their lives after owners discovered walking was quicker and more rewarding than riding a Superdream/Superdribble.😂

Try transmission fluid and acetone as a penitrating fluid

GT85? ................... you never seem to mention it much? 😁. Been using it for a number of years now, centre aisle of Aldi, always get a few tins in and its as good as WD40 and much cheaper.

have a cup of tea!

Stud extraction tool or vice grips with some heat. You might need to grind the end of center stand pivot then use an hydraulic press.

Invest in a air chisel not that expensive saves a lot of agro ,keep up the good work loving it

Get the engine vapour blasted mate… it’s worth it

Spray and spray again with gt85, weld a nut onto the bolt, warm the threaded bit of the bolt and try to turn using newly welded nut.

When you see these bikes l always find it hard to believe that they were once someones pride and joy.

I had a 1982 super dream in The 1980s.I had a leaking head gasket ,so started taking the cylinder head off ,and had 3 bolts that would not undo..I took the bike to the Honda dealer,They discovered that the threads were not cut deep enough,so the bolts had mushroomed in the crankcase..Only solution was to cut off bolt,drill out the remains and helicoil in a new thread.....suggest you buy all new bolts (possibly different lenghts front and rear), check existing threads for damage . Generally these Hondas are robust, smooth and easy to ride ,but a bit underpowered for the open road. Best of luck.

Heat it. Spray penetrant and use a small pipe wrench that will bite into the bolt. Works every time.

U need proper penetrating oil

I would put my life savings that bolt was going to shear with that breaker bar. You needed an oxygen acetylene on it and some decent industrial penertrating fluid on the sections through the castings where its corroded. Hit the top of the bolt with a 2pound hammer and just use your normal rachet. Gently bentley does it.

Seems to me like this guy's bitten off more than he can chew, lacking the knowledge, skills, tools, or patience required for this kind of work.

I think you need proper heat. i dont think the blow torch will get it hot enough. I think you need to crank it up abit , heat is definitely your friend's good luck

Barn find. Lol, should of left it there. Good luck.

Ditch the gt85 and get a few tins of plusgas. Its a lot better at shifting rust

i am just up the road, if you want me to pop down with a welder and put a nut on the seized bolt let me know, my welding sucks but i can manage that if it helps you out, would cut it down too so more force gets to the thread and not the shaft of the bolt.

helicoil for the head bolt once its out if you have to drill it out

Ry can we get a discount on the gt85, ive bin using it for a good 10+ now, and its gone up with a bang last few years. Another cracking video fella keep up the good work.

The reason why the last bolt is the hardest is because you've slackened the other 3 leaving all the tension on the last one. It would of been better to clean the threads of the other 3 bolts torque them down taking the tension off that last one.

ACF 50 is better than GT85 for very badly corroded stuff,it's also massively more expensive but you get what you pay for. I use both,GT85 for more regular stuff,ACF50 for difficult jobs and it's an amazing anti-corrosion agent to "winterise" your bike as well and while it's far from cheap you don't need much of it. Acetone is good as well but I don't know if you can get it in non-industrial sizes,nasty stuff as well and has to be handled properly but probably your best bet for that engine bolt. Whatever you use do it every day for a few days to let it really soak in. Don't forget also given the state of the threads on that bolt you got out the remaining is likely to be just as bad or worse..........so the female threads probably knacked as well.

I no expert but what I would do (with the rod) is Keep it wet with GT85 for a few days then if you dont have a welder to add somthing to turn it with (ie a nut) then a cheap way could be tap a tread and double nut it. Also during the soaking time hit it like a nail occasionaly to give it a little shock.

For the stand pivot , find a short length of stout steel/brass tubing slightly larger than the external diameter of the pivot , placed between the frame and solid ground, not the floor of your workshop, as it might /is absorbing the shock you create with the hammer. Use a solid mandrel , close to the diameter of the pin with no ' mushroom burrs , a 2/4lb hammer and hit squarely , after heating the frame where the pin is stuck, squirt your GT85 in as well , it should drift out through the lower tube, make sure you have a stout pair of protective gloves on .For the stud, you need to warm the block , having left it soaking with the GT 85 and apply more, get yourself a stud extractor , an eccentric knurled cam over a 1/2" wrench drive , you should not be using a lever that long, it should come out with a short tommy bar .No offence , but had to watch parts of this through clenched hands and why no protection on the plastic dipstick when using serrated gas pliers ? !.Good luck with the Super Dream though .

Just heat that stuck bolt up cherry red with a hand held gas torch and quench it with water ! The shock will loosen the grip of the rust then work it back and forwards with your socket! Take your time and be careful if you feel it seaze again stop and repeat process the key is tightening and loosening in small increments is before it gets totally stuck and breaks! When you start to feel it stick stop and go other direction cause its better to take a lot of time undoing than to spend a lot of money fixing! Yours Brendan.

The crankcase needs to be smoking hot with a propane torch around the stud area.i mean really hot !! Mole grips on the stud,close to the bottom of it then turn it,if it won't turn, take it to the engineering shop you used before.

On the stand you may need an oxygen and settling torch to heat where the pin is seized. Then quench it with cold water. This breaks up the rust that is seizing the pin. Word of warning, you need to know how to use these torches so you don’t damage the frame. A blow torch may do the same but I have a feeling it won’t be hot enough. Again engineering firms will often remove these. Good luck.

Heat the center stand and quench it, this should break the rust.

Rye get some plus gas in your workshop for those stubborn nuts and bolts it works wonders

I'd have probably left that in the barn

not the first to do that with those bolts... did it years ago on a spare engine i had

Funny looking pushrods 🤔😂

Try heating the case not the bolt. Metal expands with heat, heating the bolt can make it tighter. Weld a bar on the bolt first let it cool then heat the case.

Maybe a good idea to buy an induction heater coil to remove that cylinder head bolt? They are not cheap though. Around £200.00 should get you a good one, it's the only thing I know to use safely if you don't know how to use oxy-acetylene.

Definately strip the motor r to the crankcases and get it cerakoted!

Heat is your friend, use lots of it. By the way, is gt 85 any good? Lol.

There are such things as stud extractor

G, day you need a press to get Bolt out

Grind stud off leaving an inch then weld a nut on it the heat from welding nut on will free it off

"Crucial" when your doing those old head bolts or any high torqued bolts is crack one, turn both ways so its free. Do it back up and move onto next bolt till u got them all. Essentially fully undoing 1 at a time your leaving all that pressure on the last couple of bolts making snapped bolt situations easier to ruin your day. Could cut it lower and thread that bolt, get a couple of nuts on it, nuts pull on each other locking it up.

Screwfix sell a freezesprsy called crackit around £6ish got me out of a few dodgy times.

Heat the frame not the pivot

I think I would attack the side stand with an angle grinder, it looks pretty US anyway.

Try hitting it with the hammer,and no tippy taps,be a man and whale on it,if you dont hit your hand in the process, your doing it wrong

GT85? PFFT. Get yourself some BullDog BDX. It's far better. 😁

You would be very lucky to find any old Honda that did not have the shaft seized into the centre stand, ive came across many in the past where the shaft itself sits in the frame and is free to rotate instead of having a pinch bolt securing it at one end,and many owners would hardly ever use the centre stand which accelerated the time it took for the shaft to seize in the stand BTW when you replace the front mudguard please please please dont use one of those horrible universal chrome things which so many people do on their restorations,they look absolutely terrible and let down an otherwise top quality restoration

You definately need an Angle grinder, every workshop has and needs a angle grinder

They’re not pushrod’s they’re cam followers. A pushrod engine won’t have a camchain and I suggest you research an engine before you pull it apart. Embarrassing to be honest

cb250.....kinda like restoring an old toothbrush😂......have fun anyway👍

Ferrosol is the best penetrating spray

Thermonuclear warfare will get the last bolt out....maybe 😉

Ryan from Ryan's garage had the same problem check out his video on it might help

Heat blow torch

Drill and helicoil I guess

I say this in jest... You can tell you've never worked on plant 😂 Firstly, you need a lump hammer. Secondly, you need to hit it like another man on your woman. Then you'll make progress 😉 As said, long bolts like that will never appreciate a big leverage without some form of help at the threads. It's like trying to undo something with 5 extensions on it, you can never get the torque to the source. I've never used one, but I feel like you'd benefit from one of those ring induction heaters, they're really good for snapped studs

Aren't you supposed to pre warn about sponsored videos.