Reducing moisture in your air compressor with a simple after cooler.

Рет қаралды 53,119

4 жыл бұрын

In this video, I give a basic overview of how I added an after cooler between the compressor head and tank of my 60 gallon Sanborn upright air compressor. Depending on your compressor make and model, fittings may be slightly different than the types and sizes I’m linking to below, so please VERIFY before purchasing and attempting to install anything. There’s more than one way to pipe something like this in, so use what works for you. The links below are just to help streamline the process if you want to do it like I did. The concept should work the same regardless of your compressor. This mod will NOT remove 100% of moisture from your compressor, but it makes a very large difference. If you still have moisture issues after doing a similar modification, you may have to add other methods of water reduction to your aftercooler, such as desiccant filters or water traps. I water seperator between your air line and tank is still a good idea regardless.
Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. This video is for informational/entertainment purposes only. It’s not an exhaustive “how to” on modifying your compressor. I am not an expert. If you choose to do a similar mod to yours, realize that you’re working with high pressures, high temperatures, and moving parts. Turn the compressor OFF before doing anything. Do NOT remove your tank’s check valve, and make sure you know which parts you are adding or removing, and what they do. It might be a good idea to drain your tank, though I didn’t have to when I did mine. I encourage you to watch more than this video, and see how others have done this mod as well. Be safe, and thanks for watching!
Derale Cooler: amzn.to/2Ru3A79
½” OD copper coil: amzn.to/34tdI5o
¼” NPT to -8AN adapter fitting: amzn.to/3c8yIkn
½” JIC sleeve with 37 degree flare (10 pack): amzn.to/2wrZvZM
½” JIC fitting nut (10 pack): amzn.to/34svyW5
or if unavailable, try these: amzn.to/34rcRn6
Flaring tool (45 degrees): amzn.to/2XCX8if
-8AN to 3/8” tubing adapter: amzn.to/3b02fgf
Box fan: amzn.to/2Rtappz
Tubing cutter: amzn.to/34qVHVn
Disclaimer: Links in this post are affiliate links, and if you go through them to make a purchase, I will earn a commission. Keep in mind that I link these companies and their products because of their quality, and not because of the commission I may receive from your purchases. I will never link to something I wouldn't buy, or haven't already purchased myself.

Пікірлер: 119

@rays9033 4 жыл бұрын

Awesome video! I’ve been using AN fittings on my 69 Camaro z28 for 25 years, never knew what or why the fittings were categorized as they were. Another mystery solved, thanks! I’ll be be modding my 5 hp 60 gal compressor as you did, but with 2- parallel coolers from Amazon for DIY car painting.. already had a galvanized pipe matrix and and triple drain valve setup that was not performing well, thanks!!!

@KMLTimesTwo 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the detail on the fittings, etc. I am working on the same project now. I bought a sand blaster and here in FL....there is WAY too much water in the air. It basically makes the sandblaster useless. I bought the same brand cooler, but one with a 12v fan. I had planned to add a trap before going in the tank (I saw all comments below.) I will get it up and running without fan running first, then power the fan. I will see if that makes any difference.

@chrislrocks 5 ай бұрын

Thank you for the detailed parts list. It was extremely helpful.

@paulmanhart4481 2 жыл бұрын

Good job and thanks for the detailed info about connectors. If I may, I’d like to point out several things that can be improved upon. 1. Get a flexible hose to connect compressor to radiator input. Vibrations transfer through the copper tube and can wiggle your connectors loose. 2. You need to drain the water between radiator output and tank. Otherwise the water collects at the low points and eventually make it into the tank. Put an elbow after the radiator so the air goes down. Then a copper tee that branches to your return hose and goes straight down. This end of the tee connects to a foot of copper pipe and you put a ball valve on the end. So whatever moisture comes out of your radiator, sinks down to the ball valve and collects in the pipe. Drain the water after every run. It will make a world of difference. Always have a down drain for water to go and released at will. Otherwise you never get rid of it. When your pump compresses air, it gets hot because the pressure increases (PV = nRT; pressure x volume is proportional to temperature). The moisture in the atmosphere is vaporized at high temperature and only condenses when the air cools. That’s why you use an aftercooler. To cool the air and release the moisture. Then you collect that water and dump it before it goes in the tank. Hope this helps. Paul

@RileyKnifeandTool 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the suggestions. I have ended up adding a water separator with an auto drain between the radiator and the tank. It basically drains every time the compressor stops.

@gabiold 2 жыл бұрын

@@RileyKnifeandTool My suggestion would be to use a bigger cross sectional T fitting and use reducer. The ideal shape would be a small tube tangentially enterimg into a bigger diameter tube (tank). The working principle is that the fast moving air slows down drastically in the big chamber and exits at the top, while the water with it's higher mass can't decellerate fast enough and clings the walls, and due to tangential entering it's momentum will cause it to spin around the walls of the chamber thus flow down to the bottom. Tangential entering helps a lot, but you can sort of make a working contraption out of big fittings and reeucers. This is a cyclone separator kind of thing. If one has machining skills and tools, the more effective chamber shape would be conical (small side down), air could enter slightly angled down, exit should be way above the input port and possibly through a mesh filter (which can additionally trap small vapor and which then will form larger droplets). I had an idea where I would slowly drip the already collected water on to the aftercooler (or an another cooler) to further increase the cooling effect by evaporation. Are there any existing contraptions which use this method?

@RileyKnifeandTool 2 жыл бұрын

@@gabiold Those are some good thoughts. Thanks for sharing!

@dolphcreativellc2678 Жыл бұрын

@@gabiold I saw somewhere on KZfaq where a dude had the "T" thing you are talking about. The lower leg of the T was drained into a 4" diameter x 36" long galvanized pipe capped on each end (like a big pipe bomb) running down the side of the compressor tank. Inside his pipe he stuffed round copper scouring pads to act like a water collection filter. The bottom of the (pipe bomb) had a drain in it. Viola

@upthesaturation 8 күн бұрын

Hey, thanks for the thorough response to this. So I tried adding a flexible hose that was rated to just under 250°F but I cooked it to blowout in about half an hour. Do you have a material that you would suggest? I have been reading about silicone, fluoroelastomers and FFKM synthetics, but having trouble finding hoses available. Thanks

@georgespangler1517 2 жыл бұрын

Best with the 60 gallon 155psi is to back pressure switch down to 135 psi will extend compressor life and you never need 155 you will notice they struggle to reach 155 I went from 7 to 5 minutes to fill tank from empty will save years on your compressor life

@RileyKnifeandTool 2 жыл бұрын

I'll have to look into that. I imagine it fills more often, but for not as long. Interesting tip.

@georgespangler1517 2 жыл бұрын

@@RileyKnifeandTool you will notice it takes no time to drop pressure to 130 but takes alot longer to get it from 130 to 155 but looks good for selling but it's really to much on the pump.

@Z32orDIe Жыл бұрын

Awesome video! Thanks for all the info, def helped allot!!

@_mylastname Жыл бұрын

Looks just like my Kobalt 60. I think I'm going to add rubber hose between the pump and the after cooler so I don't cause damage from vibration.. Great addition

@milesff7 3 жыл бұрын

You aren’t really accomplishing anything here without a drain point. The cooler condenses the moisture into water, and is most likely filling all the low points. You need a water separator at the bottom of the cooler, at the outflow, prior to going into the tank.

@benjaminsmith4519 2 жыл бұрын

Also every radiator design for cooling I've ever seen require the use of fans and this piping seems a bit small for this application. I would rather go a bit large than take a chance of making the motor work too hard

@imkindofabigdeal4308 2 жыл бұрын

You are correct. You want to pull the water out before the tank (it has to go somewhere). This setup is making water a little faster (vs the tank cooling down).

@dc6233 2 жыл бұрын

He must be accomplishing something if he claims the difference is dramatic.

@IzziedeD Жыл бұрын

the tank is the water separator. cooler air + liquid water is going into the tank. He will still have to drain the tank, however the cooler air holding way less moisture means the condensation is not happening in the hoses or in the tools. If he did run a separator before the tank, he'd likely never have to drain the tank or his filter-regulator unit.

@MrSprintcat 6 ай бұрын

Jeepers creepers give the guy a break he said at work to awesome

@HauntedBranch 3 жыл бұрын

Looks like you are condensing the water and blowing it into your Tank. I would put a water trap between the low side of your cooler and the Tank.

@larrytraber 3 жыл бұрын

Yeah I was thinking the same thing, it completely defeats the point of having the condenser there. The water is going to go into the tank either way if theres no water filter

@phiksit 3 жыл бұрын

and the video could have been about 14 minutes shorter too. Basically... "I bought this brand oil cooler and piped it like this and didn't install a moisture trap 0_o

@georgespangler1517 2 жыл бұрын

I used 25 foot roll and no oil cooler and put Separator just before air enters tank and ran my intake through wall to outside really quiets it down and you get all fresh air

@Z-Ack 3 жыл бұрын

Yea i did the same thing.. i just spent 30$ on a 5 run power steering/ transmission universal cooler.. is like a 1.5’ square radiator with a coil of 3/8” copper tube with 5 runs through aluminum fins. No fan, i just use the air that the flywheel blows onto the pump.. and i made sure that the runs go vertical so theres 5 water traps before a 15$ Oil/ water separator with auto drain pee hole.. it empties maybe every 20 hours of use.. you cant touch the copper coming out of the pump and the coper going into the tank is room temp.. oh and the auto drain is actually something i set up with the unloader air.. if the amount of fluid in the separator reaches a certain limit, the weight of the fluid will open a solenoid that allows the head pressure vent to blow it out on its own then the relay and solenoid reset and boom monkeys got a banana..

@unitedcolors2920 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks bro

@anonghost8765 3 жыл бұрын

While browsing around, I found some aluminum -8AN compression fittings with brass ferrule and wanted to know if you know if it is possible to use it with the copper tubing. My tubing is .500 OD from the head to the tank. Any help is appreciated

@benjaminsmith4519 2 жыл бұрын

Any time you use radiators for cooling you are suppose to have air flowing throw it which is why on cars they put these in front of the engine with fans in front of them as well so they have both fan and air from the vehicle moving flow through the fins. Also I would be more concerned with the PSI rating of the unit. Another thing I know when doing residential plumbing if you use to many elbows to a fresh water line you can reduce the PSI output which honestly means it could make your motor work harder than it should

@RileyKnifeandTool 2 жыл бұрын

All valid points. There is air flowing off the flywheel, as well as an external fan I place next to it. Max psi of the components I used far exceed the output of the head, and lastly, the plumbing is upsized well above the check valve into the tank, so no volume should be lost. Thanks for the comment.

@saskdad115 3 жыл бұрын

I made one. Slight upgrade. Hoping it doesn't over heat my compressor head. Im making a video of it

@michaelp3076 4 жыл бұрын

would you consider adding a water trap filter between the trany cooler and the tank? I see a lot of guys doing that so the condensed water never makes it into the tank.

@RileyKnifeandTool 4 жыл бұрын

I can see where that might be useful. I don't see it as completely necessary at the moment, as I have one just after the main output. I might try adding one in the future though and see if there's a difference.

4 жыл бұрын

There is no way to decrease water if you do not trap it. The water stays on the system

@3sgtepwnzr 3 жыл бұрын

Ferramentas - Elogios e Críticas I’ve built many of these, without a trap (be it a copper tube or filter) the water gets pushed by the traveling pump head pressure right back into the tank. I see you do have the water trap after the tank, however the air movement at 90psi is sure enough to push some into your tools which can ruin paint or sand blasting applications. If you have a trap between the cooler and tank, you have no water to enter the tank which means no water in the tool. Simple fix since you have a trap already and it’s easier to drain the trap than the tank. Try it out, you will not be able to drain any water from the tank since there won’t be any. I have the exact same setup but I used barbed fittings with a different type of high pressure hose.

@chvydrptop 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing this video, this is the exact cooler I picked up for my compressor. Couldn't you have left the original connection to the motor head as 1/2 npt and then just used a JIC coupler to connect to the AN8 on the cooler? Trying to plumb this as easily as possible. Thanks for mentioning the 45 degree flare still works even though the JIC is 37.

@RileyKnifeandTool 3 жыл бұрын

chvydrptop are you suggesting to eliminate the copper tube? I suppose that would be fine if you have the clearance. I do like that the flywheel pulls some air across the radiator, which is part of the reason I put it where I did.

@chvydrptop 3 жыл бұрын

@@RileyKnifeandTool no I mean't just leaving the original copper tubing connector that was at the head, looks the same as mine which should be 1/2 npt compression fitting and then on the other side of the copper pipe use the JIC fitting. Even if you had to run a different size pipe isn't the compression fitting on the head reusable? I still haven't opened mine up and maybe I am wrong about it being reusable.

@RileyKnifeandTool 3 жыл бұрын

chvydrptop Ah, ok. You should be able to use the fitting, you’ll probably need a new ferrule for the new tube though, as the old one gets compressed onto the original tube.

@chvydrptop 3 жыл бұрын

@@RileyKnifeandTool Thanks for sharing that didn't realize that.

@Mbice 3 жыл бұрын

How is the Derale 15300 holding up. Is it keeping the water moisture down. I'm just starting to install the same cooler on my compressor and just wanted to see how it is doing a year later. Thanks for responding.

@RileyKnifeandTool 3 жыл бұрын

Still holding up great. I’ve since added another water separator between the cooler and my tank, and it works even better now.

@danehauser8675 Жыл бұрын

Nice video. That looks like a really small diameter pipe going into the tank. Are you not worried about a restrictions from either that, or the really small cooler? My Saylor-Beall compressor uses a 3/4" OD pipe from head to tank and it seems that a lot of guys on YT are using 1/2" so I called Saylor-Beall and they said that much of a restriction could damage the compressor from too much back pressure. I returned that small Derale cooler that everyone is using and went with a much larger one with larger diameter tubing to keep the air flow close to stock. 3/4" for most.

@RileyKnifeandTool Жыл бұрын

I do thing the supply pipe seems a bit small, but that’s how the compressor came, so I didn’t change it.

@JeffZiegler76 2 жыл бұрын

If you had to do it again, would you stick with the Derale tube & fine AN cooler or the more efficient plate cooler (Tru-Cool H7B) that doesn't need AN fitting and shouldn't need a fan?

@RileyKnifeandTool 2 жыл бұрын

I think the Derale is plenty efficient, and a bit more affordable, though a plate cooler might be a good option as well. I only run an additional fan when I'm really pushing my compressor hard, and I've also added an additional water separator after the cooler as others have suggested, which does help.

@bigfoottoo2841 7 сағат бұрын

No water separator before air goes into tank???

@backlash00 3 жыл бұрын

I really like the idea of cooling the air before the tank. But the water is still going into the tank. I'm not sure if the air in the tank is more or less moist. Could be the water comes in as droplets and are in the bottom of the tank. I have not seen anyone put an air dryer (vertical zigzag copper tubes with drain valves) between the compressor and tank. Most are after ghe tank. I'm in the process of constructing such a vertical zigzag dryer and will try testing it before and after the tank.

@RileyKnifeandTool 3 жыл бұрын

Backlash I’d love to hear how that works for you. This definitely doesn’t remove all moisture from the air, but certainly reduces the water vapor I’ve seen in the lines by a significant amount.

@eroom2087 3 жыл бұрын

If you cool the air before it inters tank there won’t be any condensation, hot air mixing with cold air in tank makes water

@backlash00 3 жыл бұрын

@@RileyKnifeandTool As of a couple of days ago I have all the parts except the flexable hose. I'm building the zigzag dryer with auto drain. Each time the compressor starts the drain opens for (x) seconds and blows out the moisture. I HOPE!

@backlash00 3 жыл бұрын

@@eroom2087 We will have to "agree to disagree" on that. Hot air contains morsture, cooling hot air condenses the moisture in the cooler. It has to go somewhere and in this case it's going into the tank. Cooling and drying are different.

@LilRedDog 2 жыл бұрын

@@backlash00 I agree with you: the condensation will happen when the hot air cools and when the high pressure from the compressor hits the lower pressure in the tank. That said: after the condenser/radiator is a perfect place to put a dryer because the air is now cooled down and is less likely to be damaged from the very hot air coming from the compressor if they make one that specs that high a pressure. I would use a A/C condenser since they are made for higher pressures and temps than transmission coolers or, even, a radiator.

@gittyupalice96 3 жыл бұрын

SO it all looks great until it comes to the ( OUT ) pipe on the bottom of the condenser, you plumbed it straight back into the compressor.... Wich makes no sense to me because the condensers purpose is to take air in and send water out the bottom, so you need an air dryer/filter for the water to drop out into so dry air can be sent into the compressor tank... Effectively all this system is functionally good for is putting cooler air into the tank, wich still reduces the amount of water just from having lower temps, but it is so close to being a 99% dry system, if you just add the air dryer before the tank. Either way, thanks for the part number 15300, thats what I came here to find. My other option was a Ford a/c condenser from the 1980's running big tubes, however its pricey compared to this smaller unit. ( edit: Thats a 1989 Ford F150 a/c dryer: ( Line code: GPD / Part No: 3605C ) From what I understand they can operate up to 250-300 PSI, meaning a 125-150psi air compressor will never exceed the pressure limit. This would reduce temps even more, but reduce Volume per minute. )

@imkindofabigdeal4308 2 жыл бұрын

Actually, this system is a closed loop and puts 100% of the water back in the tank (it has to go somewhere).

@LunarisDemon 9 ай бұрын

Am i missing something, Wouldn't the radiator build up water in it?

@ronknight1010 3 жыл бұрын

If u put a water separator after the intercooler before the tank it will remove all the condensed water before it reaches the tank

@jj-zy6gc Жыл бұрын

The inner cooler goes between stages. What you are referring to is an AFTERcooler. And no, a water separator will not remove all the water.

@ronknight1010 Жыл бұрын

@@jj-zy6gc yes that is correct. It doesn't remove it all but I've found it removes alot

@youngcurls1 3 жыл бұрын

Is there another brand or where can I get the flared nut. I’m not sure how to find or ask for this if I go somewhere like homedepot. Amazon is sold out. Also on Amazon it doesn’t say it’s for 8an, I believe it says it’s 1/2 is this the same size?

@RileyKnifeandTool 3 жыл бұрын

I inserted a link for a couple of -8AN fittings that will also work. 1/2JIC is basically the same thing. You can also search for 1/2 inch JIC tube nut and likely find something that will work as well, though they just may not be on Amazon. Good luck!

@youngcurls1 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for clearing that up, will these work Eaton Weatherhead C5129X8 Carbon Steel SAE 37 Degree (JIC) Flare-Twin Fitting, Cap, 1/2" Tube OD (Pack of 10) www.amazon.com/dp/B00QMDSDPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_DMP3Fb6848ESR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

@williamsantiago7303 2 жыл бұрын

Great video and VERY informative. Question, I don't know if you mentioned this in the video but how much AIR PRESSURE can that radiator handle?

@RileyKnifeandTool 2 жыл бұрын

Working pressure is rated for 250psi, with a burst pressure of 300psi.

@williamsantiago7303 2 жыл бұрын

@@RileyKnifeandTool Thank you for the reply and the info sir. 👍

@ejgrae1989 4 жыл бұрын

how do you know the aftermarket cooler cna take the pressure? thats what I am having trouble with figuring out, noone lists the working pressures of the coolers

@RileyKnifeandTool 3 жыл бұрын

ejgrae1989 that’s a good question. I haven’t had an any problems so far.

@JW-dy9gm 3 жыл бұрын

Derale lists the woking pressure @ 250 psi and the burst pressure @300 psi on the 13300 cooler.

@raymondjiii 8 ай бұрын

That was awesome. I have been wanting to do exactly this with that same oil cooler. I wasn't sure if the different metals (in your list of parts, there is steel, aluminum, copper etc) would cause a problem long term with different metals attached to each other. I also do not know if the 1/2" copper tubing comes in different ratings (maybe one type can handle the water line to a refrigerator but that's less than 40 psi, etc) That braided hose was nice - I wish you had posted a link for that. I have flared many things in my life but I am not sure what an AN or a JIC fittings are. Time to learn about those. Thanks for the video and links.

@RileyKnifeandTool 8 ай бұрын

I haven't noticed any issues with the different metals. The copper tubing comes in a couple of different ratings, but they should all be fine for the PSI we're dealing with. As for the braided hose, I think I got that from SummitRacing, or maybe just a generic eBay search, but you can also just bend and flare copper instead if you like. I just used the hose for convenience.

@91rss 2 жыл бұрын

was talking a Hydraulics guy today at McDonalds, and they said JIC difference is just a bit less thread engagement than AN. and AN is obsolete now

@jmbauer68 2 жыл бұрын

It is nteresting this reduces water in your lines. It won't reduce water in the system. Thought you would put a water separator b/w the cooler and tank.

@cedricdeoan1214 10 ай бұрын

What JIC fitting will work with a -6An fitting

@RileyKnifeandTool 10 ай бұрын

JIC and AN fittings are basically identical, so #6 JIC or 3/8 if I recall correctly.

@davetaylor2449 3 жыл бұрын

I can't find out what in the hell the threads are that are machined into the block that the air comes out. The fitting I took out I can find anything it will screw into accept the block it came out of. It seems to be around 20mm, with courser threads like a gas fitting. Anyone have an answer or do I just have a bastard size thingie. I have a 20 gallon husky

@jamesfarmer2748 3 жыл бұрын

Probably npt. national pipe thread. Its a taperd thread thread that usually requires a thread sealer for best results.

@bobtenwick 3 жыл бұрын

Cool use of fittings! Very clean job. Never could figure out those AN fittings. However, "Where's Waldo?", where Waldo = H20? Seriously, there is no scenario where that heat exchanger can reduce moisture unless there's a place for the extracted water to hang out. Confirmation bias? Or is it getting trapped in the condenser and a year later the condenser got full? I say add a water trap of some sort. Waldo is somewhere...

@RileyKnifeandTool 3 жыл бұрын

I recently added a separator between the tank and the cooler. I do see a fair amount of water coming out of it now, though I don’t see much difference if any in my air lines coming out of the tank. I may do an update video.

@realtruth97 2 ай бұрын

Does it work?

@RileyKnifeandTool 2 ай бұрын

It does. I also added a separator after the radiator but before the tank, so it works even better.

@noname000212 Жыл бұрын

With this system you are still pumping the water in to the tank, it will have less humidity in the air but it will be settling in the bottom of the tank. You really need a water separator on the output of the cooler to stop it from going in to the tank.

@JoeTrojan88 7 ай бұрын

yeah... a great vapor condenser. but if ya don't separate the water you just installed all that hardware to condense before the tank, you haven't actually eliminated any moisture from the tank. I imagine this rig at least leaves more of the moisture in the tank; but plumbing in a moisture separator between the aftercooler and the tank is where the big benefit is!

@xushenxin Жыл бұрын

where do you drain your water? I didn't see any drain. You just add a cooler.

@RileyKnifeandTool Жыл бұрын

I’ve since added a separator/drain after the cooler. I still drain a very small amount from the bottom of the tank every once in a while as well.

@sean7193 Жыл бұрын

so all the water condenses in the condenser, and then what? gets pushed right back into the tank? why not have a water trap right after the condenser before the tank? or do you not get any water in the tank?

@RileyKnifeandTool Жыл бұрын

The water going into the take was drastically reduced as setup in the video, but I did end up later adding a seperator just after the cooler as well, which also helps. Thanks for watching!

@sean7193 Жыл бұрын

@Riley Knife and Tool how much is in the separator If you do a fair amount of running in a day?

@RileyKnifeandTool Жыл бұрын

@@sean7193 it doesn't fill up by any means. If I'm doing a lot of sand blasting and running the compressor a lot, I'd say it doesn't get even halfway full (it's a small separator). Part of it will depend on where you live and how dry the air in your shop is to begin with, but for me the cooler made the biggest difference.

@jeffreystroman2811 3 жыл бұрын

Mixing two different temperature of air huh¿ is that why.....

@Fix_It_Again_Tony 3 жыл бұрын

I don't really think so. Go get a hair dryer or heat gun and turn it on. As the hot air mixes with the room temperature air do you see any water? No. I see multiple explanations why compressing air generates liquid water and most of them are incorrect so let me try to explain. Air at a certain temperature and pressure is capable of holding a certain amount of water vapor. Relative humidity is a measure of how saturated the air is for a given set of atmospheric conditions (temperature and pressure). Dew forms in the morning because as the air cools, it can hold less moisture so relative humidity increases until it is 100% and condensation forms. The pressure is relatively constant in this case, about 14.7 psi at sea level, but it does vary by about 1 psi with the weather. Air under pressure behaves the same way. Compress air (with temperature held constant) and the relative humidity increases. As the air molecules are forced close together less space is left for water. You see this with shock waves from explosions. As the shock wave radiates out from the explosion the air gets cloudy. Once the wave passes the air is clear again. This cloudy air is condensed water vapor from the pressure of the shock wave. See videos of the Beirut blast for an example. The key here is holding the air at a constant temperature. With increasing pressure the relative humidity may increase, but it decreases with increasing temperature. In the compressor pump both the air pressure and temperature are increasing. As air is compressed its temperature increases (adiabatic heating - see Wikipedia). Just place your hand on a pump while it is running. All that heat is not generated from the friction of the reciprocating piston. This is why an after cooler is necessary to cool the air and condense the water out, just like a morning dew. If the pressure if held constant and the temperature is decreased (through the after cooler) water will condense assuming the air passes through the dew point - the temperature at which air is at 100% relative humidity. The key, which is not shown in the video, is you want to collect this condensed water BEFORE it makes it into the air tank. Let me know if that makes sense.

@ShortyzProductionz 3 жыл бұрын

You wanted to straight to the point but waste 6min+ in the beginning blabbing on. Where is your water separator after the cooler? It appears you’re condensing it down then shoving it right into the tank

@RileyKnifeandTool 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback. You're right, I'm a blabber.

@mback12000 3 жыл бұрын

Holy crap, first half the video... blah blah. Lol. Still, thanks for making it.

@landonpackard8935 4 ай бұрын

Shit, more than that. More like 10 +, I cant do it.

@MichaelJeffers75 2 жыл бұрын

Can these coolers handle 175 PSI or at least 150?

@RileyKnifeandTool 2 жыл бұрын

Working pressure is listed as 250psi with a burst pressure of 300psi.

@briandale5645 7 ай бұрын

How about $75.00 for a motor guard with shit paper for a replacement filter at $1.25 a roll .

@beemikeme 3 ай бұрын

Definitely better to get right to the point without the rambling. As to what you did, you cooled the air (which takes out the water) but then you allowed the cooled air along with the water back into the tank. It would have been more sensible to filter out the water BEFORE the cooled air goes into the tank.

@richardlyles2883 7 ай бұрын

You have no way to remove the material from the system

@RileyKnifeandTool 7 ай бұрын

There is a separator where the hose attaches to the tank. I also added one just after the cooler after this video was made. I still drain my bottom tank every couple of months or so, but the water is far less now.

@beachboardfan9544 4 жыл бұрын

Jesus skip to 3:50! No wonder you were struggling to get a vid under 20 min

@backlash00 3 жыл бұрын

4:00 minutes of a motor.

@phiksit 3 жыл бұрын

4:55... rambles about AN fittings for awhile... to about 10:00... The End p.s. Never installed a moisture trap 0_o

@davetaylor2449 3 жыл бұрын

Amen to that, just think he could have mentioned something important than those fucking fittings

@Ockhamcool 6 ай бұрын

So let's think about this. In your modified arrangement, you are not "drying" the intake air, o.k? Fine so far, same as before. The amount of water you are taking in as a byproduct of air intake is unchanged. Your compressor is STILL intaking humid air, and compressing it, moisture and all. So you have added a small downstream condenser. Yes, this is partially cooling the compressed humidified charge, which will condense (some of) the water "out" of that compressed air...but THEN WHAT? 64 thousand dollar question: Where is "out"? Where does that condensate go? With your current arrangement, the condensate water still goes right on into your tank! Nothing much has changed. It may enter your one-way check valve at the top of the tank as a drippy spray as opposed to uncondensed moist air, but your tank is still wet and still filling up with water. (Partially) condensing the water out of the air does virtually no good if you don't separate out the condensed moisture PRIOR to your tank entry. Bottom Line; You are halfway there. You still need a drip loop and a separator vessel at the bottom of the loop, preferably with an auto bleed feature. Otherwise, the moisture you condense is going to end up in your tank anyway, mostly defeating the purpose of the condenser. Just something to think about.

@RileyKnifeandTool 6 ай бұрын

I have since added a separator just after the cooler with an auto drain. I need to make an update video I suppose. Thanks for your comment.

@shantk7378 4 ай бұрын

Have you realized what you've done?

@briandale5645 7 ай бұрын

20 is not shit take your time and show it in detail and get right !

@exbballfan 3 жыл бұрын

GET to the DAMN point.

@RileyKnifeandTool 3 жыл бұрын

That's a great suggestion. I'll work on that in the future. Thanks for watching.

@gibsonj5035 3 жыл бұрын

Please lookup the word "verbose". Correct for this problem and try this video again using the opposite of "verbose".

@rosswoolley2854 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for teaching me a new word and meaning! "Well executed"

@phiksit 3 жыл бұрын

LOL... exactly. This should have been a 30 second video. And there's NO MOISTURE TRAP 0_o

@ronniewilcox3976 Жыл бұрын

I fell asleep

@stickbogart3657 8 ай бұрын

Get to the meat show the visual of what you’ve constructed don’t make a project out of it. Just get to meet with pictures of what you built.

@bentolsen9219 Жыл бұрын

well if you have difficulty making videos below 20 min., maybe start with a course where to learn not to be so fund of your own voice. 80 percent is useless running mouth. All could have been done in 1 minute, hey guys use this oil cooler between pistons and tank,,, end

@RileyKnifeandTool Жыл бұрын

That is some phenomenal advice, Bent Olsen. My long winded-ness is exceeded only by your intelligence and wit. Thank you.