Is there a video with your thoughts on Ph?

@brian bates I talked about pH in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l9x0m9l-u57Kj2w.html Beyond this, I don't have much else to say

Ahhh...Thanks Abe.. Much appreciated.🙏😇

Abe you are truly an inspiration ❤ can’t get enough of your videos!

Hell fucking yeah! Woooooooooooo

Thank you sir

Much appreciated ✌

Thanks so much 👊

Thanks so much

🙏👌👍👊

Yessir 👌

Haha thanks buddy!

Thanks Damarris!

👌👍👊✌

🤪 Thanks my friend 👍👌. I've been taking my time on the 140g. I do have some equipment coming this week so I should have an update soon. 😎

Oh yeah the "dumb" comment i made at the end was related to this 7-minute rant that I went on about alk test kits. At first I was going to leave it in the end of the video but eventually decided to leave it out altogether 😄

Youre welcome!

Thanks Reggie!

Thanks Jeff!

I appreciate it!

Absolutely. BRS says this all the time and literally never does it lol.

I usually dont worry about potential changes in parameters due to water changes.

I'm definitely suspicious of the reliability of my Hanna Checker. However, since I've also had a bad experience with a Hanna Alk checker and my old Full Hanna Phosphate tester (before the "checkers" came out) went bad after a few years, I probably won't ever buy another Hanna product.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hN-Aq9eLudfVg5c.html

All those things are sometimes worth trying, but they're not really reliable. All of the different ways to deal with stn or dying corals sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. You can try cutting off the dead part. I usually don't do that though until I see that the parts that are alive look like they're bouncing back. It's not really an exact science. In my experience, just having great tank conditions is as reliable as cutting off dying Parts, using dips, Etc. It's the same thing as everything sometimes they make it, sometimes they don't.

Yup!

Yea i should have bought that one instead. But i gave up on checking phosphate. I just run rowaphos and change it monthly. Thanks!

I run rowaphos 24/7. I don't see a problem with it if it's keeping your phosphates stable and at a good level.

Thank you Dave and good luck!

thanks i want to ask u a ? about my phos it is 180 on the hanna so it 0.054 ppb i need it lower iam use nopox i have a nice size refug would u use gfo for a little bit thank

@@dmsreeftank242 I think its low enough. Is it parts per billion or parts per million? But either way you dont need it lower. I wouldn't use GFO it seems like your fuge and dosing is doing the job. I try to keep my phos between 0.03 to 0.07 ppm.

@@CoralEuphoria hi bro.. really nice video. Like to ask u that too adays my po4 almost 0 nothing dosing. Only filters is..cheeto..skeemer..& gfo.. do u think I stop gfo? But as I noted that my cheto growing too fast & then saw my po4 always too low even 0 .. so u think cut cheto or first stop gfo & see? Thanks in advance

I used calcium chloride from bulk reef supply. Also used mag chloride from bulk reef supply.

Sup my dude. I didn't. I just said what I had to say in my Acro growth video and in my misconceptions video.

I actually don't dose lime water anymore. I mainly did it to keep the pH up. Since adding the bucket refugium , my pH stays above 8, so I stop dosing kalk, but also partly to keep things simple. As for dosing 2 part, my 120 gallon uses a little less than 300 mL of each part daily. Is divided into 24 doses every hour.

I just feed the fish heavy

IMO best to have your pH around 8.2 - 8.4 if you can. Probably best for growth. But mine ranges from 8 - 8.2. Above 8 is where I try to keep mine

Thank you so much. No UV on this tank.

Yeah i agree. I probably flucuate from 7 - 8.5. I run two-part now BTW. The key is not over reacting and correcting slowly when it deviates. Like if i check it and its too low, i just overdose by like 10ml per day until its back up where i want it. Good question.

@@CoralEuphoria Thanks for the info

in general i like to keep it above 8

I agree thats too much of a swing. My doser doses around the clock, every hour it would dose 1/24 of what I wanted each day. But if i had a doser that dosed continuously and that was determined by some kind of separate timer, I would dose late night or early morning to help counteract the pH drop that occurs overnight. I actually do this in my 20g quarantine tank with kalk, dosed with a BRS doser which turns on/off with a mechanical timer. As needed I just adjust the time it's on. Did that answer your question?

@@CoralEuphoria Yes you answered it for the most part. I'm just trying to figure out how I should dose. Cause I loose about 1 Dkh per day and that's about 20ml. But seems like Dkh gets too high when I dose 1 ml per hour. So I was thinking most during the night and every few hours during the day.

@@mmpressey 👍👌

@@CoralEuphoria Thanks for your response!

I call it aquaman tenuis. It was a nonamer 🤷‍♂️

i like my phosphate to be below 0.03 ppm but i don't trust phosphate test kits anymore. i just run rowaphos 24/7 now

Above 78 is fine IMO

I use a Ca reactor, 2 part and kalkwasser in my ATO (controlled via PH Probe) You can dose Kalk manually by mixing 1 tsp Kalk/ gal RO WATER. Mix to dissolve and drip in slowly, 1 drop/sec at night when pH is lowest.

I plan to do a dosing video soon! 👍

Thank you!

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hN-Aq9eLudfVg5c.html and in general i like to keep my ph above 8

It depends how much you tank consumes. I think a daily alk swing over 0.5 is a little too much. So it sounds like you dose manually? If so try to automate somehow

Stop feeding nori and all coral foods. Switch to Rowaphos and use more and change more often

Wow sounds like fun. I have never tried it but seems like people have success with it. I like to do water changes so it's not for me but maybe in the future ill try it 😀

Triton can be successful, IF you can get it in your hands for starters. Ive shocked my tank 3 times because its impossible to get product in your hands sometimes. They say its “less expensive” because your saving money on salt? Lets do some math. A box of reef crystals for 200G is what..$50? Thats practically the same as a triton ICP test. Then you have to worry about the sump configuration, which costs $ to upgrade or re-configure your current setup to switch chaeto and skimmer location They want a 10x turn over rate so now we have to invest in some higher pumps for a majority of people. 4 dosing pumps, 4 containers because the boxes leak, at least 2 mini pumps to keep those containers mixing because 3a and 3b have leaked on me before. Etc, etc, etc. Even buying 1 ICP test a month alone is the same as a box of salt for 200G. I tried triton for a year, liked it, good results but its expensive whether people admit it or not. I ended up going zeovit and it has been the best decision of my life. Oh and btw, triton never gave me 0 nitrates and phosphates since i like to feed heavily. I had to eventually put the filter socks back because my chaeto was turning into a nasty goo pile, so that benefit was gone. Once I put the socks back chaeto started growing but even with a 40 gallon section in my sump full of chaeto and 2 H360s spread over the chaeto didn’t give me 0 no3-po4. Zeovit was the only product that allowed me to feed as much as I wanted. After the triton failure i went old school and did 3 gallon water changes daily with the DOS. That kept everything in check but still didn’t get a ULNS. Thats when I went zeovit and it has been the best decision of my life. It took a bit to see results with triton and once I did, crash because I couldn’t get anymore. With ZeoVit and it didn’t take anytime at all. Fast and noticeable results extremely quick.

H380s, sorry. I would go with basic water changes or zeovit. I have 13 tangs in my tank and 12 other fish so its heavily stocked. Thats why I ultimately went zeovit. If it wasnt heavily stocked then I would have stayed with basic water changes.

@@moonrockreefery nice

Red Sea Coral Pro

I agree your phos is a little high for my taste although some people have success at that level. I would bring it down to 0.03 - 0.07. I would also bring your magnesium above natural seawater, above 1280. I dont know if a macroalgae reactor will do the trick. Maybe. Is there a way to run RowaPhos more aggressively? Growth is also accomplished by being able to feed more while keeping your nutrients in control. In other words, can you dump in a good amount of food while keeping your nitrates and phosphates in check and/or without having algae problems. It usually takes a mature tank to pull this off.

Thanks for sharing. I'll try to adjust po4 n mg. Maybe double volume of rowa.

Hey Bob, I did try it back in 2010 2011 when it first came out and I wasn't happy with it because it never return the same result if I checked the water sample two times in a row. It wasn't precise. I actually went on a 7 minute rant about this in the original footage, but I decided to leave it out.

Haha thanks. You can email using info@coraleuphoria.com for any questions but honestly I will probably discontinue that frag pack I sell on the site.

I forgot to say it so I put in text while I was talking. it's pH :)

I use finnex titanium heaters. I don't have heater preferences other than them being titanium

I use rowaphos to keep phosphates down. for alk, ca and magnesium supplementation. generic products, like those from bulkreefsupply, do the job just fine. good luck :)

Decided not to. IMO best to have your pH around 8.2 - 8.4 if you can. Probably best for growth. But mine ranges from 8 - 8.2. Above 8 is where I try to keep mine

I don't dose kalk anymore for a couple years since my bucket fuge keeps the pH up at night. Yes, the kalk before was mainly to mitigate the nighttime pH drop.

Yes it should be fine

I said what I had to say about pH in my Acropora growth video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l9x0m9l-u57Kj2w.html

I didn't. I did end up saying what I had to say in my Acro growth video.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l9x0m9l-u57Kj2w.html

122 x 61 x 61cm, 546 liters