FYI, a reason that the Barnes online load data differs from their #4 Manual was due to the introduction of the LRX bullet and different seating depths. That's why some of the charge weights changed. The data indicates that they still used a 24" barrel, Remington brass, but the primers changed - online is a Rem 9 1/2 and in the manual they used Fed201M (for the 270 Win data). Subtle changes often change powder charges but you may still get the same velocities

Just noticed the other day that the Nosler reloading book has an asterisk on all their tested powders indicating the most accurate for a particular powder. For W760 in your case, the most accurate is 54.0 grains and by the way I read your target, it appears that charge weight seems to be born out for both bullets.

just bought a browning x bolt western hunter in .270win, 24" 7-1/2 twist barrel. For whitetails I'm probably going to shoot which ever 130gr or 140gr cup and core shoots most accurately. Want to load up some 155gr barnes LRX for elk, should have enough boiler room to maintain velocity with plenty of twist in the barrel. I never load to cannelure as its almost always in the wrong place, magazine and chamber dictate my loading length, thanks for video!

Cant go wrong with JOHNNY !, I "grew up" in my reloading watching him

Thanks for sharing brother , and soup looks great hope all groups are touching .

I have had batches of 270 Win (Winchester brand) brass with a few issues. All went away with sizing in a bushing die, turning the necks, and uniforming the primer pocket.

I have the 124 gr Hammer bullets for my 270 Win. I'm using H4831SC with 60 gr I'm getting 3200 FPS and 3/4 inch group. I would like better accuracy, but it's definitely good enough.

I just bought the only 500 Remington 9 1/2 primers Cabela's had lol. Small rifle is a dime a dozen. Large rifle? Good luck. I am in need of Magnum primers. My 300Rum is hungry

I been wanting to try some hammer bullets. I just need to order some

I haven't had much experience with Tika. If you say it an awesome rifle then it must be. From what I understand, it is a spin-off of Sako and if it's anything like a Sako then yeah it's awesome!. I have a 22ppc Sako and that thing threats the needle like nothing I've ever had. Probably my best target rifle. Thanks for the video man!

Keep up the good work!

3.25 124 or 117gr hh. 4831sc 57.5 gr. Benchrest federal primers. Wicked combo. Hammers pretty easy to get sub moa. I found hard to get under a .5moa. I have a Tikka t3 270

I'm coming to Huntsville tomorrow. If I recall correctly I heard you say Nosler ballistic tips are among your favorite. I have 3 1/2 boxes of 150 grain in 270 if you are interested. I bought way too many. I'll be there for a week

From other content creators the hammer bullets like to run hotter. And will actually have higher velocities then other bullets in its class.

Nice!

Barnes and Berger bullets. 👍👍

I have a load that I've been using in my Ruger American .270win it's 130 grain SST with 47 grains of IMR4064. I can't really find IMR4064 anymore which is sad but I've been looking at some shooter's world powders and also staball 6.5. But what I've found with the 130 grain SST and 47 grains of IMR4064 is it preforms amazing on our big mule deer bucks we have in Montana. Haven't had a chance to sling one at an elk yet but I keep hoping. If you can find some IMR4064 try it in your .270 win. I'm getting sub MOA with it.

Every Sako and Tikka that I've dealt with they usually have excessive Free Bore like the Weatherby cartridge chambers and seating any bullet that will feed out of the magazine well seated length from what I've seen so far there is no way possible to get the bullet seated as to kiss the lands and grooves without using the rifle as a single shot . If You investigate OAL cartridge length from the face of the closed bolt to the lands and grooves for the Tikka T3 Lite please let me know if what I said is not correct. As in the Tikka and Sako rifles that I've loaded for the excessive Weatherby style free bore causes a long bullet jump which most times will give a bit more velocity. IMHO for any bolt action rifle the seating depth is a custom depth not set by a manual or cannelure position or placement and in this case the cannelure should have been disregarded and seated out past the cannelure to at least the OAL the manual stated if accuracy is the goal. With that said loading for any bullet profile I always establish a maximum OAL from the closed bolt face to the bullet touching the lands and grooves then after that measurement back off from .005" - 050" for a loaded seating depth that the bullet manufacturers recommend.

Have you had any problems with the Remington 9 1/2 LRP’s? I bought 2 bricks about 6 months ago, and I’ve had several rounds failure to fire out of my Savage precision 6.5 creedmoor. Thinking the firing pin protrusion may be too shallow on that bolt, but I’ve never had an issue with any other brand of primer.

Is there any truth to the myth or rumur that solid coppers do better with fast burning powders?