Im gonna have some fun working up loads for this .270...the 180 Woodleighs stabilize and group really well so that takes care of the heavy end of the spectrum so now I’m working back down around the 130’s and have a few different projectiles to try in that weight.

UNCLEBOB 540i I’m looking forward to loading for it and exploring the heavier weight bullet options...I’m sure I’ll load a little lighter at some point but I’m gonna work on some good loads around 150gr and up

​The 130 grainers are really the hot setup in .270. Perfect for deer and most other game. You can get those moving at 3000+. If you read Jack O'Connor that in a Winchester model 70 was his go to combination for most game. I shot coyotes with 110s, but not my favorite.

What brand of rifle mate? I’ve reloaded for my M77 with 130gr SST and the performance was awful. Bullets tumbling up near max charge. Going to try the 140’s

@@chenderson4969 interesting, as I've found my Hornady's best groups were at min loads. Not a fan of these bullets in my Sako .243, or Tikka .270. I think both are unstable with the twist rates. I wish Tikka would up their twist rate offerings, at least in their varmint line.

The .270 is a solid round and great choice for deer. I load .280 Remington for my dad and it’s a great round as well. Gotta love the AI line of cartridges. Those Sierra 110’s should drop the hammer on some deer!

Daryl Guyton I plan on trying a few different bullet weights, which 140’s worked good for you?

@@alabamareloader The 140 sst by Hornady

Hello, was thinking of reloading for .270 Win if I can ever buy primers. Question: after a case is fire formed or stock cartridge shot, do you bump your shoulder back .002” and then trim case to trim length like a lot of hand-loaders for bolt guns do? What kind of rifle are you shooting in, also do you have any idea how far you are reloading from your barrel lands to get 1/2” groups at 100, or do you simply measure your cartridge overall length when seating bullet, or measure head to ogive with a comparator and caliper? Also do you crimp or not? Sorry for all the questions, but with 1/2” groups you must know what your doing and I want to learn. Just curious, thanks ✌️😎👍

@@repairfreak Well since I pick up range brass I always full length size all of my brass and I always try my brass in my rifle chamber. Then I bump the shoulder back on any that need it. Also I'm shooting a Ruger No.1 International at the moment but when I made this post I was using a Ruger M77 LH but I am still getting the same size groups even though the No. 1 has a little tighter chamber than the M77. I hope this helps

Yea I figured you meant 3,000 and brass does make a big difference from what I can tell. I bought 100 pieces of Sig Sauer brass for the .270 so I’m looking forward to seeing how it performs. I’ve always had good luck with Sig brass in .223 and .308.

Bryan Fletcher thank you!

Luvta Handload I’ll have to give the 160’s a try and it’s a duplex reticle. Bow season opens as early as October 1st in certain parts of the state with gun season following in November...not much longer now!

The rifle is an older Savage 110, non accutrigger, internal mag, if that helps

I would check out Hodgdon’s load data online for the 140gr bullet weight in the .270...they use a Swift SP so not ideal but the starting charge is ~50grs which should be low enough to give you a good starting place and not get you into trouble. IMR 4451 is a great powder!

I’m near Huntsville

It all depends on what powder you choose and what bullet weight you choose…I would recommend getting your hands on a reloading manual (Sierra, Hornady or Speer) and that’ll get you headed in the right direction.