On closer examination of case dimensions… you are correct. 250-3000 (250 Savage) and 22-250 have nearly the exact same case dimensions. Thanks for the correction. It is worth noting though, they all (22-250, 250 savage, & 308 Win) share the exact same case head size of 0.473”. I don’t know enough to know which one came first. Guessing 308 Win was the original, and all these others were wildcated from that?

The .250-3000 is based off of the .300 Savage, which is also the parent case to the .308, so he's not entirely wrong

You are correct

I agree with you at first I thought it was a timing issue, but after watching I think it was an alignment issue all along.

That is totally epic, and I’m gonna need details

@@Jmastffp hey buds Im from BC Canada, a friend and I were working on our trapline when early in the morning the stellar jays were making a noise, I grabbed my 270 rem 700 and went to see what the commotion was about when I noticed a huge sow black bear and her cub approaching me, she smelled me and proceeded to charge, I fired a shot to the side of her, she stopped to investigate and then full charged again I went to load another round but could not open my bolt it was stuck, as aI mentioned I made it to the cabin just in time, she circled the cabin my buddy had a win 94 ready, fortunately she left,

That is a possibility. I’d encourage you to check your brass. There will probably be other signs. Loss of accuracy, bulging of the primer, maybe even fractures in the case.

You guys weren't paying attention that gun was sticking with new brass just trying to cycle the bolt it was having problems with out even firing amateurs..

@@Lucysdad66 With all do respect the title reads "Customer would fire the weapon and would not be able to open the bolt afterwards". I have ran into this problem, one with pressure near the base of the case. They call them "Clickers" , and at times the bolt has been stuck as well. I also found out later, that some late model 700's have a poor cam over on the angle of the action where the bolt snaps open, This area on the action was designed poorly and would not assist the bolt in the cam over process. In Josh's example he uses an unfired cartridge and it shows a similar issue but caused by a different problem. No need to get excited we are all just trying to learn something.

That’s very interesting. I wonder if there’s some heat expansion that’s making it stick. I’d rub some lapping paste on your bolt nose, put a spent casing in the chamber, and then open and close the bolt repeatedly for a few minutes. Hopefully that will messauge it into tolerance. Thanks for the comment sir

sounds like your way over presure! any time you have to pound bolt open you have presure problems and or very dirty chamber.

I methodically worked the bolt nose down with a small diamond file until I could run a cartridge through it without it binding up. Only had to remove about .003-.005 of thickness. If that didn’t work I was planning to open up the bolt nose recess. I don’t like popping barrels off of actions unless I absolutely have to. Especially on older rifles. This one may need a new bolt if the issue persists. Apparently the bolt has been an issue since the rifle was originally purchased. I got to talk with the original owner about it through another gunsmith I know.

@@MastGunWorks so basically you made a feed ramp for the bolt nose?

@@bigbore4459 Kinda. I ended up removing material from the bottom (6 o’clock position) of the bolt nose so it would fit the existing bolt recess. I probably should have just separated the barrel and action and opened the bolt nose recess up a few thou. I don’t like popping barrels unless I have to though. Personal preference. Open to debate.

You’re the third or fourth person that’s mentioned this being an issue. Sounds a quality control issue for sure. Hope you’re able to get it fixed. Need to find you a gunsmith with a lathe

Again, based on what I was seeing from testing I have a strop suspicion the bolt nose recess was machined too small. I believe these are typically bored out to around .012”-.015”. It’s also been my experience that most factory rifles like this have “sloppy” bolts. Custom actions are usually a lot tighter on the bolt to bolt raceway fit.

With a Savage I would say you may need to aggressively clean the chamber. Especially up at chamber throat. You might have some carbon build up in there that’s catching your brass up. It may also be head spaced a little tight. Fortunately, for you savage owners, head space is really easy to adjust compared to a Remington.

I might have same issue with my short action made about that same time as yours. i can cycle the bolt fine but go to put in a round and i cant even get the exstractor to pop on to the case. maybe the simular or exstractor issue instead of miss alignment.

What’s up brother! Thanks for the comment. Sounds you and the other guy that replied are experiencing some quality control issues. Remington has gone through several regime changes over the last 15 years, and had quality control issues because of it. Unfortunately the current ownership isn’t honoring any warranties from previous ownership because of all the problems that were inherited from poor quality standards… long story short. I would suggest buying a head space gauge (go and no go set) for the caliber you have and check the head space. Either your chamber isn’t properly cut, or the bolt nose recess is too tight. That’s where I’d start. Beyond that you’ll need to get to a gunsmith to have it diagnosed. I’d be more than happy to look at it for ya if you like.

@@timbjork2098Sounds like you either have a bad extractor, too deep of a chamber, or (again) your bolt nose recess is too tight. There’s a chance that your bolt face (where the cartridge base sits in the bolt) is not machined deep enough as well

You had this issue after putting several hundred rounds through the gun? Have you cleaned the gun? I mean REALLY cleaned the gun? If you get a carbon "ring" at the end of the chamber/beginning of the throat it will increase chamber pressure. Excess chamber pressure will cause your brass to swell excessively and make extraction difficult. It may not be your problem. But it is a simple/cheap thing to check. And if it isn't the problem you can at least check it off the list of variables that might be causing your problem. Carbon rings are notoriously stubborn and difficult to remove... And a standard cleaning regimen may not always remove them. A quick peek with a decent bore scope will confirm/eliminate if it's an issue.

Sir that is quite a pickle you have there. If you have the bolt rotated to the open position you may be able to put a rod down the barrel into the fired case and tap the bolt out that way. If the bolt is is not rotated to the open position, and you can’t rotate it, you may need to remove the barrel.

Yes, thanks for the input. I’ll try to work more of those in during future videos

I think what’s happening is Remington was boring the bolt nose recess with too tight of tolerance. Either immediately or after a couple hundred rounds (when thing have worn in a bit) you start getting a lot of contact between the bolt nose and the recess. The best way to fix it is to widen the bolt nose recess a bit, but not everybody has a lathe in their back pocket. The next best option would probably be what I did. I’m really becoming more of a fan of Savage as time goes on 😂

We’ll agree to disagree… it’s all schematics really

Apparently I don’t know. Care to enlighten me? Because I’ve since learned the correct answer, and would be curious to see what you have to say.