12-13 hours. Could of be less if I have the right tools to access difficult tight areas.

How did you know that you had to change the coolant lines? What was the symptom?

how did you get out the engine bracket and that mount right under the cat there? i’m stuck on that right now don’t have enough space to slide them out and i don’t have an engine lift either

Was this easier? I'm planning on doing this job soon

@@joseantoniomendivil7064 what year is the car? Mine is a 13', was no way I was pulling it out from the top, not enough room in the engine bay. As long as you have a lift that can lift the motor and hold it in place, taking the motor mount off is not hard at all.

@@tony_golfs Mine is a 14'. I might buy the lift for this one, any recommendations?

@joseantoniomendivil7064 car was lifted as in 4 point hydraulic lift. Then I used an adjustable stand to hold engine up, then disassemble motor mount.

Did you have code or what you fell with that problem?

Is it the same for xdrive? I am literally about to start this project with close to no experience just KZfaq videos. It's a 2013 BMW 528i xdrive. Any advice?

@@hamburger6133yes bro you don’t need to lift the engine at all or remove the mount

If you have a helper then it is easy.

Thank you!

@@goroundfun6034your oil return feed line does not have a check valve. You might want to replace that

@@Sequel7 it has it. The line in the video was not the one the was actually installed.

You can not replace the lines without removing the turbo. The leaks are normally not from the o-rings, they are from the rubber part of the lines, which over time crack and start leaking.

I comes as a set with the screws for the waste gate. Part number is 11 65 8612575. You can get it at the dealer. www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/fastening-set/11658612575/

No, it was leaking coolant from the inlet line.

The CAT can be removed and installed without removing the mount. For this job the mount had to be removed and it is easier to reinstall the CAT before the mount. You are refering to 28:36, that is not the removal of the CAT, it is only tor torqueing of the bracket for the CAT.

@@goroundfun6034 makes sense, thank you. You motivated me to do this DYI, saved me thousands. Keep Posting

Unfortunately not

Sorry, I don't.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mNl5a6xyyLWao2Q.html

The same turbo. It is in good condition.

The oil supply line was replaced. It is on the video. 16:00

I can't see the check valve on the oil supply line (cylinder block side). If it is a feed line without a check valve, an improved oil supply line should be installed. The problem is that the exhaust muffler shows white smoke when the car stops overnight and starts for the first time the next day. See SIB111116.

The service bulletin applies to F10 models up to 6-27-2013 (early models). Mine is a 2016.

It depends on your skills, experience, tools and if you have help. It can be done in 4 hours or 2 days.

The manual calls for removal of the engine mount on the Xdrive version, I honestly don’t think it can be done on either one without removing it. Give it a try if possible, it would be very difficult. Some people replace the mounts using a jack on the bottom to hold the engine, I don’t recommend that, it can be dangerous while you are working there and you can also damage the transmission housing or the engine pan.

@@n1tcn1tc yes but can all the work be completed properly without interfering with the engine mount bracket and or any lifting? Meaning I don’t want to do any of that… all I want to practically do is detach the CAT Exhaust manifold in order to remove my turbo so that I can replace my cartridge and gaskets, o-rings. Can the work be done without loosing and removingthe Engine mount. Does the engine have to be hooked while working below the car?

Take a look at this short video and you can judge. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g598dM-CqLHZiKc.html You can try it and if you find it too difficult then you can remove the mount afterwards and lift the engine. I think the inner bolt that holds the return cooling line to the turbo may not be accessible or it might be very difficult to torque. Also the front bolt for the turbo bracket may not be accessible. Get under the car and see if you can reach the bolt for the water line through the subframe. Also keep in mind the extra space you get by lifting the engine, reinstalling the assembly back on the engine is a little challenging as it is very easy to damage the gaskets with the manifold studs. I recomend one person from bellow and one from the top for that task, I had to do it alone and I did damage a couple of gaskets.

Thank you 🙏🏼 I appreciate your guidance.

I had to change the coolant pipes by the maniflow I had to remove the turbo just Kike this guy video the only difference I was able to do it with out removing the motor Mount

Yes.

Per the Manual: "Remove right engine support arm (only all-wheel drive vehicle)" For the 2WD version, I don't see how you can do it without removing it, you need the space to work on the lines and you also need the space to remove the assembly. Maybe it can be done without doing it but it would be very difficult.

Wiggle it and try to turn it a little. It takes patience and sometimes creativity. I am assuming that you will replace it so don't be afraid to damage it with pliers (gently). You can also try preying the flange without damaging the block. Let me know how it goes.

Yea that worked just had to muscle up 😂 thanks

Yes