Huge thanks for this video. Everyone else just breezes through the removal of the throttle body, which is the most involved part and has the most potential for costly mistakes. 👏

Thanks for your VERY helpful video, Steve! I installed an idle screw on my '23 KTM 300XCW and although it took me 4.5 hrs to do it (slow learner), it was relatively easy and now I have an adjustable idle screw -- as the bike should be. This is my first 2-stroke motorcycle -- have only owned it 6 weeks -- and prior to watching your vid, I didn't even know how to take the seat off. So... learning curve. Anyway now I've not only got an adjustable idle screw, I'm also much more confident about taking my bike apart and putting it back together for service as needed. THANK YOU SO MUCH for making a really thorough video that was so thorough that even a rank beginner like me can feel comfortable taking such a project on. Though I admit I was terrified while heating my throttle body up to remove the stock screw. Whatever -- it worked perfectly.

This was a great video I used it comprehensively today. So well made, really helpful for a newbie like me. Only thing I found was on my bike the wake up dongle wouldn’t prime until I reattached the fuel tank pump connector. Not sure if I maybe didn’t hold the throttle open long enough though I did try it several times, I reattach the fuel tank and it worked Also my throttle cables were seized onto the 10mm nuts so when I undid the they must have thrown out the adjusters at the top of the cables. This really had me perplexed for a while. Make sure your 10mm nuts are not seized to the outer sheath I would say spray them with some WD40 before undoing them. Again thanks for this great video. Getting the throttle body out without lifting the sub frame is pretty much impossible ( I know), your tips were just the tricks needed 👍👍👍

Great video. I just got my TSP kit and am installing mine. I really struggled getting the airbox boot off the throttle body. I'm not sure if it's because it's cold here or what. I gouged up my throttle body trying to get a screw driver in to help it off. I was going to rip the boot right out of my airbox I was using so much force and it still wouldn't come off. My suggestion is don't even think about using a screw driver. What I found was MUCH easier is to loosen the clamp at the reed block. Pull up the sub-frame up and the throttle body will easily pull out of the reed block. Now you can twist, and tilt the throttle body to the side which will make is MUCH easier to get it out of the airbox boot (no screw driver!). There is a sharp little lip on the throttle body that makes pulling it straight out very difficult. So this way makes it way easier and save you an hour of swearing.

Best instruction video for first timers! Thank you!

We really appreciate these videos Steve! Very easy to follow your step by step instructions.

This the most detail idle screw installation I watched thanks !

OK now this is the LAZY BOY option. I didn't want to tear my brand new 2 week old 2021 Husky 300 TPI down so this is what I did. First I removed the single retaining screw and popped off the throttle cover (I did not need to remove the exhaust to do this, I just GENTLY pushed it from the OTHER SIDE on it's edge at the top with a broad bladed screw driver and it popped off). Secondly I could see the blue Locktite on the screw and I sprayed it 4 times with ordinary DISC BRAKE CLEANER, 30 minutes apart, and left it overnight. Next day all visible blue Loctite was gone, an encouraging sign, but I knew that some would still be active in the threaded section of the housing. I then removed a 2.5 Allen/hex from a folding bicycle Allen tool set which have those big loops at the end when you take them out of the set (the loop is critical for leverage, a standard Allen wrench will not work) I then fitted that to the idle screw and once in place, used a bigger Allen wrench handle through the loop in the 2.5 as a lever (any handy short lever would do just as well).Very slowly I kept pressure on it but TIGHTENING it, not UNDOING it. (So many people go wrong trying to loosen reluctant engine setting screws, tighten them first whenever it is possible because the wrench is being pushed in, much less chance of stripping the hex). Just as the 2.5 Allen started to twist a little under strain, it gradually turned the idle screw a fraction so I stopped and warmed the engine to full operating temperature. Whilst doing that I plugged in my OB2 diagnostic unit (dirt cheap on Ebay but get the convertor plug made in England by Lonelec to connect to KTM/Husky) and via my mobile on the free OB2 App, watched the ECU rev count NOT the ENGINE rev count because that fluctuates too much on a 2 stroke, the ECU RPM count is the AVERAGE reading and THAT is the one to set your idle by if you have the choice to do so. It is easier to get the really fine adjustment on a 2 stroke this way. After much experimenting on my bike I found 1775 ECU RPM (easy number for you Yanks to remember!!) to be the optimum for my bike with the Air Bypass Screw totally SHUT. There is ZERO reason for using the air bypass screw, it is ONLY there because manufacturers cannot use any other method to adjust idle without effecting emissions. It is a total bodge because the TPS has not been moved so the ECU has not been 'informed' of a change. That is why despite raising the idle speed you get 'flame outs". My bike used to do it all the time and always in the worst situations which caused me to fall off several times on steep hill climbs etc. The Air By Pass bodge works kind of OK on cars and even to some extent most 4 strokes but the 'work around' was never intended for high performance 2 strokes which have totally different "needs" to deliver optimum power delivery characteristics. Trust me, just screw the stupid POS Air By Pass SHUT and experiment with getting a perfect setting with the idle screw, which moves the TPS and 'informs' the ECU to adjust the mixture accordingly. Your bike might vary on it's perfect RPM average but now mine pulls really cleanly off the bottom (quite critical on the RPM reading I found, higher or lower RPM settings were not optimum) and is NOW great at ultra low speed manoeuvres like "figure of 8" at walking pace, but also goes like a f**cking missile when cracked open. Honestly, it is like riding a totally different bike. The first time I gave it a whiff of throttle the front wheel came up so fast in a power wheelie that I nearly fell off, I just wasn't expecting that much sudden performance increase from fiddling with an idle screw! Lastly, remember to drill a little hole in the plastic cover before you put it back so you can adjust the Idle screw without removing it. I will get around to replacing the Idle screw with a 5 X 50 mm next time I am in a hardware store (I am certainly not paying $35 for one! 10 cents and an old spring from a Beretta shotgun more like!) but for now I haven't bothered as I don't want to disturb my perfect setting and there seems to be enough Loctite still on the screw to prevent it unscrewing in service. i.e. the idle adjustment is quite stiff in both directions which is perfect. So guys, that is a lazy-arsed Brits way of achieving exactly the same result with 10 per cent of the effort. No heat, no rebooting the oil pump or anything. If you do get it WRONG and strip the hex head you are no worse off because you were going to strip the entire bloody bike down anyway, in which case you can release the screw with a pair or pliers once you have melted the Loctite. Worth trying! Less hassle, more riding time!

Great Video! This is the only one I could find that goes through the whole process! I haven't removed the throttle body before so this was helpful! About to start this job now, wish me luck!

You edited out the hardest part… removing the airboot and I understand why

Excellent video. For those without a blow torch, I used a few drops of super glue debonder to loosen up the loctite holding the throttle body grub screw. Grub screw came out easily.

Thank you for this. Just installed an idle screw in my 2019 KTM 300. Was having troubles with idling, and wanted to use the bypass screw to adjust mixture at idle. Was running fairly lean to get the rpm for tickover. Running much better now, and followed most of your instructions to a T. Really grateful, thank you very much.

Thanks for this, very helpful. I did it without removing the pipe, just a bit fiddly. I found with the plate covering the throttle cables was hard to separate and I didn't want to force anything so I pushed it at the top from the left side with a screwdriver. Cheers

Great video. Very helpful. It's easier to remove the right side plastic than removing the the frame protector.

Very thorough explanation! Fantastic video!!

Really good and clear information. Thanks!

Thanks Steve! Super helpful vid!!

Hey! Nice video. Courious to hear about the air screw setup after the mod. Thanks

Super video merci

Top video grazie 🙏

leve the throttle body on the bike n use a mini torch it will come right out after about 15- 30 seconds i have done this on many ktmsno problems

On my 2020 300xc its was a torqx, on the gasgas 2021 300ec it was 2.5mm hex, my second time around was quicker BTW you do not need to remove the exhaust pipe plenty room from the other side, remove the cover and cables after you get the throttle body out of the boots. Save $ source your own screw, specs 50mm long, 5mm x 0.8 pitch metric screw, plus you need approx 3/4" long spring. Tip spray WD40 in the boots to help them come off much easier

Watched your video and installed the idle screw but I had previously adjusted the air screw. Do you know what the factory setting was on a 2021 KTM 300 XCW on the air screw?

Good information. At 12:00 I started wondering if clipping off the plastic was necessary. Couldn't you put the plastic cover on first and then feed the idle screw through the new hole? Setting the 4.5mm gap would be a little more tricky, I guess.

Great video , but question So I got the factory Loctited idle allen screw out , but after removing it the throttle mechanism didnt move towards the stop , it stayed at 4.57 mm the exact measurement I got before I removed the factory allen screw, Seems a little odd?

I just bought this kit and my bike has never had trouble idling. Do I need to install the idle screw or would I be okay with out it?

So how many turns did you tune your air screw to after the mod?

Thank you so much for the detailed video. It really helped me a lot installing the idle screw in my 2021 300 xc-w. It's unreal how hot you have to get the throttle body to remove the grub screw, I was really concerned I may have hurt something in the throttle body by getting it that hot. But my bike runs fine now that it's all back together so it all worked out. How do you recommend setting the air screw and idle screw? Stock setting was 2 3/4 turns out on the air screw. I found that 1 1/2 turns out gave me good responsiveness, really good low down grunt, and no pipe bang. Turning the screw in more just resulted in pipe bang and mild bogging or slightly less responsiveness, and I didn't try turning the air screw out any more than it was from the factory.

Can i install similar screw in my classic 350 to reduce idle rpm.Will it affect engine in any kind possible

I have the idle screw sitting in my tool box for my 2020, but haven’t done it yet. Is there ANYTHING that this will mess up or could mess up? I guess as long as I put the gap back the way it was set from the factory I should be good. I’ve heard it could possibly cause starting issues.

Need a video on how to adjust the air screw and idle screw . Very confusing .....

The hardest part is with the airbox boot, not the screw.

I just can’t remove the back of the throttle body from the pipe. Any tips? It’s really stuck

Nice video. I followed it very closely. However now the bike will not start. Currently charging my battery 😞 (2021 Husq TE300)

This is kinda doing too much for this mod .