OK now this is the LAZY BOY option. I didn't want to tear my brand new 2 week old 2021 Husky 300 TPI down so this is what I did. First I removed the single retaining screw and popped off the throttle cover (I did not need to remove the exhaust to do this, I just GENTLY pushed it from the OTHER SIDE on it's edge at the top with a broad bladed screw driver and it popped off). Secondly I could see the blue Locktite on the screw and I sprayed it 4 times with ordinary DISC BRAKE CLEANER, 30 minutes apart, and left it overnight. Next day all visible blue Loctite was gone, an encouraging sign, but I knew that some would still be active in the threaded section of the housing. I then removed a 2.5 Allen/hex from a folding bicycle Allen tool set which have those big loops at the end when you take them out of the set (the loop is critical for leverage, a standard Allen wrench will not work) I then fitted that to the idle screw and once in place, used a bigger Allen wrench handle through the loop in the 2.5 as a lever (any handy short lever would do just as well).Very slowly I kept pressure on it but TIGHTENING it, not UNDOING it. ( So many people go wrong trying to loosen reluctant engine setting screws, tighten them first whenever it is possible because the wrench is being pushed in, much less chance of stripping the hex). Just as the 2.5 Allen started to twist a little under strain, it gradually turned the idle screw a fraction so I stopped and warmed the engine to full operating temp. Whilst doing that I plugged in my OB2 diagnostic unit (dirt cheap on Ebay but get the convertor plug made in England by Lonelec to connect to KTM/Husky) and via my mobile on the free OB2 App, watched the ECU rev count NOT the ENGINE rev count because that fluctuates too much on a 2 stroke, the ECU RPM count is the AVERAGE reading and THAT is the one to set your idle by if you have the choice to do so. It is is easier to get the really fine adjustment on a 2 stroke this way. After much experimenting on my bike I found 1775 ECU RPM (easy number for you Yanks to remember! My Husky must be a Republican!) to be the optimum for my bike with the Air Bypass Screw totally SHUT. There is ZERO reason for using the air bypass screw, it is ONLY there because manufacturers cannot use any other method to adjust idle without effecting emissions. It is a total bodge because the TPS has not been moved so the ECU has not been 'informed' of a change. That is why despite raising the idle speed you get 'flame outs". My bike used to do it all the time and always in the worst situations which caused me to fall off several times on steep hill climbs etc. The Air By Pass bodge works kind of OK on cars and even to some extent most 4 strokes but the 'work around' was never intended for high performance 2 strokes which have totally different "needs" to deliver optimum power delivery characteristics. Trust me, just screw the stupid POS Air By Pass SHUT and experiment with getting a perfect setting with the idle screw which moves the TPS and 'informs' the ECU to adjust the mixture accordingly Your bike might vary on it's perfect RPM average but now mine pulls really cleanly off the bottom (quite critical on the RPM reading I found, higher or lower RPM settings were not optimum) and is NOW great at ultra low speed manoeuvres like "figure of 8" at walking pace, but also goes like a f**cking missile when cracked open. Honestly, it is like riding a totally different bike.The first time I gave it a whiff of throttle the front wheel came up so fast in a power wheelie that I nearly fell off, I just wasn't expecting that much sudden performance increase from fiddling with an idle screw! Lastly, remember to drill a little hole in the plastic cover before you put it back so you can adjust the Idle screw without removing it. I will get around to replacing the Idle screw with a 5 X 50 mm next time I am in a hardware store ( I am certainly not paying $35 for one! 10 cents and an old spring from a Beretta shotgun more like!) but for now I haven't bothered as I don't want to disturb my perfect setting and there seems to be enough Loctite still on the screw to prevent it unscrewing in service. i.e. the idle adjustment is quite stiff in both directions which is perfect. So guys, that is a lazy-arsed Brits way of achieving exactly the same result with 10 per cent of the effort. No heat, no rebooting the oil pump or anything. And if you do get it WRONG and strip the hex head you are no worse off because you were going to strip the entire bloody bike down anyway, in which case you can release the screw with a pair or pliers once you have melted the Loctite. Worth trying! Less hassle, more riding time!

Just did this modification and it works just like he describes it. Took me 45 min to strip, do the mod, reassemble and test ! Awesome video.

Dave you make an great Job,teaching those people fundamentals !!! you are a Serious Smart Bro, greetings to Australia

Thanks for the video. I get it done within 1.5 hr and the bike runs perfect with idle adjust.

Great video and excellent explanation. Thanks!

Excellent explanation. Many thanks!

Good info. Thanks for sharing. Look forward to putting to the test on my 2023 Husky 150

The best video i have seen on this subject...so if the bike running fine and no issues the is not necessary 👍🇬🇧

Just done this mod today works a treat

Great modification, works wonders on Mt TE250i, 2018 vintage

Great video! Best one out there for sure.

Good video. To the point and well explained

Mine I didn’t have to heat. It was loose enough. Probably because I use an engine blanket when I snow bike and maybe it caused enough heat to break down the thread locker? Your kit is fantastic and transformed the bike. Kudos yo South Bay Moto for their excellent service!

Excellent video. 👍👍👍 Thank you

Excellent video thanks my 2020 ktm300tpi has been a dog from new cuts out on idle when warm thank you for the video i will definitely in time order the mid comp head and ecu flash cheers 🍻

Thanks you for this informative video. I have a 19 300 XCW, and while it runs perfectly, the low idle just bugged me. I was hesitant to make this mod, but after watching this video, I took the plunge. I pulled the throttle body, and made the necessary preparations. I set a timer for two min and fired up my torch. After 90 seconds the lock tight began to bubble, after 2 min I was able to turn the screw (with a T10 tork bit) 1/2 a turn. Added heat for another 30 seconds and the set screw came out without resistance. I've set the air screw to 1/2 turn and tuned the idle to my liking. Total time was around two hours, which included a lot of cleaning. (since it's apart, you might as well clean parts you normally can't get to...) I'm on old 2-stroke guy, who always jetted his bikes just a tad rich, so this mod gives me piece of mind. Again, thanks for the video it's greatly appreciated.

Great video thank you. I’m new to TPI and made a idle adjustment with the bypass by mistake. Bike is very boggy and not very crisp. This mod sounds like it’ll fix my problem.

Great video Thanks 🏁🏁🏁👍

Hi great explanation! I've installed the adjustment bolt in my Husky TE250i 2018 and messed around with the TPS calibration as well. Can you tell me which are the factory basic settings in the TPS and throttle position for my bike?

Done this mod myself on my 250 tpi 2020, bike would not idle an kept stalling, tried adjusting the air screw as instructed by Ktm (upto 6 turns out) but bike started fouling the spark plug with oil, Ive now adjust the air screw back to around 1-2 turns out an raised the idle with this screw, perfect

Thanks for the video. It has to be an alloy bolt or a stainless steel one with some anti seize grease does the job?

Great vid Dave,3.5 /4 turns out on the 2020 too is that about right do you think

wel done

Some odd information here. The 'air by-pass' named in the video is actually the Idle Air Screw. The 'idle screw' is the factory pre-set throttle stop. Moving the throttle stop should be avoided as it affects the idle TPS reading which only takes small movements to make large changes to idle fuelling. Any movement of the butterfly stop should also be followed up by a TPS zero position reset. The air required for Idle will arrive at the insides of the engine from either the throttle butterfly or the idle by-pass port, it does not care how it gets there. Only the volume of air is important for the idle speed. Fuel is added into the transfer ports, so there's no problem with air 'not mixing' at the butterfly plate from bypassing through the idle port.... There's no fuel at that area.

I have a 2020 300tpi I have the two stroke performance head and re-map I have set the throttle position sensor to 600mv as suggested and my air screw is 3 turns open as per the TSP instructions but my bike isn’t idling too good. Any ideas please ?

I’m one of the small percentage who has to do this. Do we need to use the “wake up “ plug to prime the oil pump when we re connect the oil tube?

Hola si cierro el tornillo del bypass del aire del cuerpo de mariposa la moto consume menos gasolina o más???? Gracias

Looks like you could drill out the cover and have it surround the bolt. It might help keep dirt off the threads and make adjustments easier but would definitely look nicer.

hey do u guys ever remove return throttle cable on ktm tpi bikes to make throttle easier?

Instead of using a flame, try using a Sodering iron, you can direct the heat directly on the screw.

What dimensions are the spring ? 0.5mm thick / 35mm long / 7mm diameter ?

Hi. For 2020 models at 2000 meters elevation. What number of turns you recomended. Thanks

So, basically you are tuning the idle and part throttle mixture by adjusting the TPS value (by resetting the idle stop screw) and closing off or opening the air port. Q. What happens if/when the system resets the TPS 0% value?

I will vouch for this modification, having just done it on my 34 hr. 18' 250 TPI. That, and replacing the CCP sensor at the same time while you're in there. Bike now runs totally as one would expect it to.

Just finished the procedure. All is perfect except a bit of sputtering in wide open throttle in 2nd gear? Guess I need to play with air bypass and idle for a bit? Any suggestions.?

You might like to use an electrical hot air gun rather than the blow touch - better control and less chance of melting anything.

Is this mod still relevant for a 2023 300xcw? I read that idle speed would require only a small idle air screw adjustment due to revised (closed) butterfly plate position on recent year Dellorto TB. The article also stated the 2018-2019 bikes were the ones that needed the grub screw changed for an adjustable screw. I cant remember where i read it. RacerX, Vital mx...not sure. I have the 2023 and it runs good. It just idles low and will shut off if you arent blipping throttle constantly. Just curious since this vid is 4 yrs old.

What size spring do you use?

I have the Coober ECU. Would your head work with it?

I did the idle screw mod but missed the part about only adjusting that if necessary after adjusting the air bypass screw. I have no idea now where it sits relative to the stock setting. How can I set that back to near stock setting? As I recall you can measure voltage somewhere and set accordingly. Any tips?

Hi, Does it harm more fuel in TPI engine Crankshaft oiling? so If we make mix rich does it will be harm for engine oiling?

I don't doubt anything you say, but it confuses me that you say the flat blade screw is not to be used for setting the idle. KTM says the contrary and recommends to set the idle speed by turning this screw. 300 TPI owners manual page 22....

So the factory manual is wrong when it tells you to adjust the idle bypass screw to adjust the idle speed?

Will a heat gun work?

Do we need to remove the TPS from the throttle body when doing this mod? Would the heat effect the TPS?

Ty for the info. Probably will buy your flash/head kit. But my 2021 seems to run fantastic at stock settings. Did they make changes from 20 to 21? Thx again

My bike seem to be getting flooded every time i start it up i have a 2020 xcw tpi is this something i should consider doing ?

Actually that screw is the throttle stop point right? We should not mess with it right?

Hello, I have a 2022 husqvarna, it consumes me a lot of gassoline,can you help me please?

Not sure if anyone can help. My bike is running rich based on the colour of my spark plug. Low revs the bike is running ok but mid throttle seems to be really boggy and chuggy. Whats best to do?

alors je doit légèrement fermé l'air screew ou faut ouvrir?

Does this apply to the 2020 TPI bikes?

Where should the air screw be when starting out after mod on TE 250i 2018?

Hi I fuck up and didn't count the bypass and now I can't start my bike 😅 . Do you know what a ktm 2012 air bypass start at please?

Is there any issues with fitting this with a stock ECU?

How long was the bolt

Do you know what dimensions the screw ism M5 by how long? Like to be prepared before I start it

Ridiculous KTM didn't have this done at the factory.

This is making me not want to buy one of these...