Links to products used in the video: Rubberized Undercoating:amzn.to/2ZBYo3H POR 15: amzn.to/2DBInkW Stabil Rust Stopper: amzn.to/2XRW86m CRC Corrosion Inhibitor: amzn.to/2ZONbwK RP-342: amzn.to/2XOaTar Amsoil Metal Protector: www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc... LPS 3: amzn.to/2DD5fjJ NH Oil Undercoating: amzn.to/2GPJoaT Fluid Film: amzn.to/2IZP5o3 Help support the channel by using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Here is a link to Krown's lifetime warranty policy: krown.com/en/warranty/ At the bottom of this policy Krown states that any unpainted undercarrage parts of a vehicle involved in an accident must be repainted then, Krown must be reapplied to keep this lifetime warranty. Sounds to me like Krown is fully aware their product does not work on bare metal.
@XYZ-sq7ki2 жыл бұрын
Do people ever mix inhibitors… say use CRC in crevices and FF everywhere else? I just bought my first car (brand new)
@jonpatrick663 жыл бұрын
Young Man, I want to give you a heart felt, sincere thank you for your thorough, well worked review of these different products. You saved me time, money and frustration from a hit and miss approach. Thank you.
@jeffwilliams9086 Жыл бұрын
I second that comment…I have watched a lot of similar videos but believe he has done the best on this subject of undercoatings!
@nelsyoung833 Жыл бұрын
@@jeffwilliams9086 You are correct.
@oflchen19 күн бұрын
This, my friends, is called SCIENCE! He's got a control and everything. Very well done.
@user-po7iv4ni3o3 жыл бұрын
I can't believe no one from the utility company took it down over all those months 😂 This was an awesome test, with so many products!
@chriss32694 жыл бұрын
My experiences with Krown. BTW we live in St Andrews NB Canada right on the ocean, actually it is a peninsula island surrounded by the ocean.1. My wife's 08 Acura MDX was treated new by the dealer in Ontario. We bought it in 2012 in Nova Scotia, no rust. Continued with the treatment until my daughter totaled it (she is fine) this past August and there was no rust on our X anywhere. The tow truck driver was shocked with how good the condition that our old X was in and could not believe the frame did not crack in half and that my daughter walked away when she crashed into (along) a tree line sideways at 60 MPH until a tree finally brought her to a stop.2. 2006 Civic purchased in 2010 in PEI, treated for the first time then, rear ended by a 17 yr old texting in 2017 no rust anywhere.3. 2013 Civic (replaced the 06) purchased in 2017, started treatment then, no rust anywhere and I crawled under her in Sept, looks brand new.4. Now here it gets impressive. 1985 26ft Coachman RV bought in 2012, 27 years old, never undercoated, got it for a song and did not realize who far along the rust was on the frame and even on the engine block and yes, everywhere else. My wife and I figured we will enjoy the old girl as long as she lasts. We have treated her every year since. You would not recognize her now, black as the Ace of Spades, no rust ANYWHERE. She looks brand spankin new under there and I was just under her changing the oil for the winter last month.I enjoyed your test but I will stick with the Krown.
@RepairGeek4 жыл бұрын
I don't doubt your results at all. If you can make any concrete conclusion from my testing it's that any treatment is better than no treatment. Thanks for watching.
@harrylime51475 жыл бұрын
I bought a new ram 1500 Big Horn hemi. I took it home and spent five days taking it apart to use fluid film to prevent it from rotting out the way I see a lot of ram trucks rusting out. I pulled the fender liners out, I took out the grill, the headlights, the tail lights, I took the rubber off the top of the rear bumper, I took the runningboards and the running board brackets off, all of those things I took off so I could get fluid film under them before the salt got there. I took the access cover off of the tailgate to spray inside, I bought the fluid film attachment for the spray cans it’s a bout 4 feet long hose and I went in the access holes of my ram all the way up to the roof on both sides of the windshield, and the door posts. Two years later, I’m getting ready to do the third application which I am going to do every year. There’s no rust under there.. My last truck was a 2008 GMC Canyon four-door 4 x 4. I bought it new also...I read the owners manual cover to cover and in the owners manual it said, if I undercoat the vehicle, I void the warranty. So I did nothing as far as undercoating on that vehicle. I thought general motors must be very confident in their corrosion coatings protection....Well I ended up losing the brakes twice from rotted brake lines, I lost the fuel lines from rot, the supports for the bed and the back bumper were so thin from rust that during an annual state inspection, the state inspector told me that this metal holding the bumper on it’s not gonna last too many more years. The bumper was bubbling, the chrome had gotten salt under the chrome finish... I had to replace the front brake rotors, I discovered the splash guards for the backs of the front rotors were disintegrated from rust. The frame was completely covered with sheets of rust that would come off with a scraper in sheets. The only thing I ever hauled in that pick up truck was a picnic bench kit, and a washing machine once. It was not at work vehicle. It was what I consider to be an SUV with a bed on it. The corrosion under that vehicle scared me into trading the truck in, it only had 42,000 miles on it, it had never been in an accident... I was very lucky that the body and the finish on the truck still looked like new, so the clearcoat and the General Motors paint job held up very well. That’s why I spent five days rustproofing my ram 1500 with fluid film. Because of what the salt in Pittsburgh Pennsylvania did under that GMC. I did try saving the GMC with POR 15 on parts of the frame. There are heavy warning labels on that about getting it on your skin. I wore long sleeve work clothes and gloves with cuffs on them. I coded my face with Vaseline. But I got some of the poor 15 where the gap on my arms between the gloves and the long sleeve shirt left my skin exposed. I ended up going to two different doctors because of what it did to my skin. That stuff does not come off.. I was diagnosed with folliculitis. And I missed two days of work because of the rash looking damage it did to my skin. It looked exactly like poison ivy or poison oak covered skin. POR 15 is dangerous. Not only is it Difficult to work with, but it did not stick to the frame on my GMC on the upper control arms which I was able to prep with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner .. you can’t just attach a sprayer and stick that into a door where you can’t see where it’s spraying and cover everything in there with POR 15. If you get it on the glass, how are you going to get it off. It doesn’t travel like. Fluid film does. Fluid film that I sprayed actually traveled up hill. The bed of my new truck was factory spray coated with black undercoating bedliner it looks like. There are holes in the walls of my truck bed for ??That fluid filmI did not spray in the bed, but it got near the drain holes and it actually traveled into the bed and uphill through those accessory tiny holes in the wall of my bed. And it traveled into the bed through the drain holes in the bed. The fluid film spread out in about a 6 inch circle over the first summer. So that stuff does travel into the nooks and crannies where you wanted to go to get there ahead of salt..So when it gets hot, that stuff travels into the areas where salt water make it before salt water gets in there... I read that fluid film is actually good for leather. I coated two pair of my work boots with it and a couple of belts that were suffering from age, they were getting hard and not flexible. My red wing work shoes sucked that fluid film up and he feels soft and supple. My belts softened up also. And they look very good like I had just polished them. Fluid film was running out of my hood and down over the glass on my headlights of my ram 1500 this past summer because of the heat of the sun. It just wiped off. For the last two winters, I coated my chrome bumpers, & my factory chrome mag wheels with fluid film, and I left it on there all winter without touching it. I just put it on the rag, and wiped it on and left it there. It just looked shiny. When I washed my truck after the end of winter, The bumpers and the wheels looked like new.. I put plastic aftermarket fender molding on all four of my wheel arches as well as mudflaps. Before I put the wheel arch covers on, I sprayed the entire painted area that the plastic cover would cover with fluid film and put the plastic wheel arch covers over that thick layer of fluid film. The reason I am so meticulous about the rustproofing is because I am retired now, and this truck cost more than I paid for my first house. In 1977, I bought a brand new Ford Econoline van. I sprayed underneath the trunk and inside the doors with clean motor oil when the truck was new. The truck lasted me 31 years.. The areas I did not spray with oil rusted out, down below the windshield in where the windshield wiper linkage is, and inside the rocker panel on the opposite side of the side door. I only applied that motor oil one time in 1978. The truck only had 67,000 miles on it when I junked it, because the frame and the suspension components just were a little past it.. I wish they had fluid film, or I wish I had known about fluid so when I bought that ford van new. I’d probably still be driving it here in 2019
@actioncircus15 жыл бұрын
The holes they put in the frames of vehicles provide a few purposes: Water / road salt drainout, engineered crumple points in a collision, the holes can be markers for when the car is assembled, and the distances between holes are measured by the manufacture and are used for re-aligning the frame in a collision (I'm a collision repair technician).
@missingremote43884 жыл бұрын
I have just sprayed StaBil rust stopper undercoating on my 1995 GMC. It's never been Zebarted not had other protection applied before. So all the frame and body mounts had surface rust. Never garaged so it was an orange rusty mess. I made a KZfaq video halfway thru the process. Thanks
@missingremote43884 жыл бұрын
@walt charamba I named the video, StaBil rust stopper works on suburban kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rLp6hs-W3MXVqps.html
@missingremote43884 жыл бұрын
@walt charamba thanks. I'll think about getting a permanent undercoating. Wishing I could do a frame off restoration just to preserve the frame: ( and prevent por15 overspray ) lol
@mark20734 жыл бұрын
I bought a can of POR15 a couple years ago and didn't use it. After seeing KZfaq reviews that aren't favourable I managed to sell it a couple months ago for $5 more than I bought it for!
@Walkop5 жыл бұрын
Just a note! Krown isn't designed to be stagnant. It's thin so that it creeps into crevices - it's designed for deep penetration into an underbody of a vehicle. It isn't designed for this use case, which is likely why you saw the results you did. It also isn't meant to be sprayed with a straw - they include one for precision, but it's meant to be sprayed with a shutz gun (at a Krown shop) or without a straw onto broad areas like this. When you spray it, you'll notice it foams like crazy - it's designed to be thin and creep, spread to fill all the cracks, then dry so the rust inhibitors can do their work. I'm not affiliated with Krown, but I know a lot of the engineers who work there and people who own/work in their shops. They're the most honest and genuine people you'll ever meet. The product works awesomely for what it's designed for, and I've seen it first hand. I'm in snow removal in Ontario, Canada, so I'm out driving as they're salting in the worst sloppy, wet conditions. Krown does work on bare metal. I used it on my wheel hubs, brand new unpainted steel, for 2 months in salt-spray and slush - not a spec of rust on the hubs coated with Krown - the one hub that I missed was completely coated in rust.
@jamesryan19395 жыл бұрын
If it can't protect a clean piece of metal hanging from a pole, its not going to protect my frame going down the road.
@parkerbohnn5 жыл бұрын
Works extremely well for bearings in computer fans even better than slick 50 or duralube oil.
@Walkop5 жыл бұрын
James Ryan even in this case, it did protect it. There's a film of rust in some areas. If that's your underbody, you're still safe for decades. The point: this isn't a traditional application of Krown, and the product isn't heated like it is in a shop. You're going to get different results. Besides that, Krown isn't designed for max protection on bare metal. It's designed for max *penetration*, and good protection. If you spray thicker undercoating products, they won't spread the same way. Especially in areas that are already rusty. Meaning you'll still get breakdown of parts in the really rusty areas other products couldn't penetrate to. They have another product they don't sell, as well, T-45-its thicker, for heavier protection. I don't know when they spec that for use in the shop. Again, I don't work for Krown...nor am I sponsored, paid or anything similar to promote them in any way, shape, or form. I just know my real-world experiences are totally different from this test. I can't explain why, but I know it works.
@Al-jv2xb5 жыл бұрын
Creeps alright there is more product falling off your car onto your driveway rather than stays on the vehicle. And FYI Fluid Film does the same thing. It's just Krown's excuse for dropping off.
@Walkop5 жыл бұрын
Al Al that's also incorrect. That is a training issue if you're getting tons of drippage. Krown only needs less than litre of product to protect your whole vehicle. Most shops overspray to make sure everything is covered; but too much can cause excess dripping and attract dirt until all the carrier oil evaporates. Dirt=moisture, so you don't want overspray. They've also changed the formulation in the shops recently to make Krown significantly thicker, but it is HEATED in the shops for application. This allows it to become very thin when applied and allow all the faster initial creeping to occur, but once it dries it still creeps while being less likely to drip. Fluid film does the same thing, yeah, but it's simple physics. If one product drips more, it's thinner/lower viscosity/WILL CREEP MORE. It's a balance. Krown will definitely creep more if it drips more. The new formulation will definitely affect that, and bring that balance into a better position than any standard Fluid Film application could, but it's still a choice, an intended trade off whichever way you go.
@Mattjki5 жыл бұрын
Great test! I did something similar when choosing my spouse.
@chriswalters85565 жыл бұрын
Matt Kind I love you 😂
@donaldcrossley59375 жыл бұрын
And how did that work out?
@upinvermont30645 жыл бұрын
Always wondered why she made me stand in front of that telephone pole overnight.
@denduq925 жыл бұрын
Matt Kind you sprayed them all down and kept the one that handled it best?
@finalthought38885 жыл бұрын
😂 nice
@josephpuchel64975 жыл бұрын
The Krown and NHOU are made to saturate the areas inside doors , Rocker panels, quarter panels. You can’t see these areas and that’s where rust will start. By the time you notice rust in these areas it could possible too late and further work will have to be done. If you have to apply it every year it’s worth it. As far as ares you can see like undercarriage and frame you can see these areas on a daily. Wash down these areas with cleaner neutralizer then spray the product of your choice.
@robertjohnson44013 жыл бұрын
Excellent test method and analysis. Thank you for educating us to choose the best product. I will go with the CRC Rust Inhibitor.
@MindbodyMedic4 жыл бұрын
this is invaluable, doing God's work my dude
@rubbersole794 жыл бұрын
Or, as Norm MacDonald said to Ricky Gervais....."Doing nothing's work" - LOL
@lacro56865 жыл бұрын
I have been having great luck with Krown. I started using it with a vehicle that was already 4 years old before first application, and subjected to very harsh NY state winters (read SALT!).All I previously have done was a Springtime wheels off cleaning, and paint touch up of mainly suspension components. I started having Krown done 3 years ago. Just the undercarriage. I checked how well it lasted, and protected a year later on a friends hoist. It was 80% still on everything, except areas that are constantly blasted with water, salt, and sand which is used on roads around here. I have been having it re-applied every year since. I pre-clean with purple power full strength, and pressure wash the undercarriage before having Krown re-applied. I don't have to do the cleaning, I'm just OCD, and like to start fresh each year. For the $50 they charge to do just the undercarriage, and the protection I get, I don't see how I can beat the performance/price. Actually I just had it done yesterday. My 7 year old Toyota Rav 4 still has a rust free undercarriage. If I had a vehicle lift, I would do my own treatment, but I would probably still use Krown. Krown also has a salt eliminator that I spray on after winter to neutralize salt deposits which seams to work well too.
@KasparOnTube4 жыл бұрын
I hope You are right as here in Eastern Europe the Krown is kinda only available option out of those what that video was talked about and I'm gonna do it on next week for my car. Also I am very surprised about price 50USD.. here is like 179EUR (almost 200USD) :S
@jsmith426902 жыл бұрын
@@KasparOnTube VAT. Everything in Europe is more expensive because of VAT.
@gerryvass38764 жыл бұрын
Hi, first of all thanks for your time and effort. I however have a story about POR 15. I have a old 4x4 camper van that I converted to run on propane, I purchased 2 old propane tanks, one was 25 gal and the side tank was 17 gal. I sandblasted both tanks used Metal Clean & Metal Ready then applied two coats POR 15. It has been 18 years and you can use soap and water to wash the tanks and they both look like they were just done accept for all the little stone dents on the rear tank, nothing went through the coating, just small dents. So my point is this product is amazing if you do all the prep. Yes all the prep take time, now divide that time by how many years you do not have to do anything again. My idea on fixing things is, fix it right once if you can and never have to do it again.
@MotoGPatrick Жыл бұрын
POR15 is a paint system not an undercoating. Sort of not applied and tested as paint in this test.
@tac4bravo Жыл бұрын
My understanding is that POR 15 is meant to be applied directly to rust, with some minor prep first. The rough texture of the rust helps the POR 15 grip and stay applied
@kovalenkoihor4325 Жыл бұрын
Not like directly. POR has special set, where you first do metal prep (phosphatic acid) and then undercoating.
@LumenChaser Жыл бұрын
Good luck with that, look up por15 rust videos and see what happens No undercoating works as effectively as lanolin based products especially wool wax or surface shield
@kovalenkoihor4325 Жыл бұрын
@@LumenChaser what are you saying? No effective undercoating?
@LumenChaser Жыл бұрын
@@kovalenkoihor4325 I said nothing works as effectively as lanolin undercoatings meaning lanolin products are the best protectant in the industry for salty roads and this has been proven so if you don’t want your vehicle to rust out use wool wax or surface shield.. wool wax also sells HV version which is much thicker so it doesn’t wash off but still stays wet as it’s lanolin based, it is used for High wash areas
@rdspam3 ай бұрын
Yes, “testing” by ignoring all of the manufacturer’s directions is pretty irresponsible.
@sako4me3 жыл бұрын
That explains why the Amsoil HD metal protector has held up very well for the last 3 years of Pa winters. Thanks for your hard work!
@ruebanh94934 жыл бұрын
Great video. Service manager at a local repair shop in S. E. Pennsylvania, and we keep gallons of fluid film on the shelf and a gun to spray the frames. Tremendous product. I recommend it because it works!
@Rammykazemi4 жыл бұрын
I was all over the place trying to see what works best for my brand new truck. got crazy tar spray quotes from dealership and this video was the most helpful video ever. now i can just purchase a few sprays, spend a day and save tons of cash. this was an amazing video. thanks so much for sharing this.
@WaterDR-tw8re3 жыл бұрын
I used CRC on my Gladiator. Stuff was supper easy to apply. Looks great. Dry. Doesn’t drip. Should do the trick
@XOneStarX4 жыл бұрын
Any chance of doing a test with a part that is already slightly rusted? Lots of these products claim to stop rust that's already started.
@Herpaderpderpamufuka4 жыл бұрын
YES! Please do this
@gskills4 жыл бұрын
Yes... what can we do if you have some light surface rust starting.......
@WASTED__POTENTIAL4 жыл бұрын
Agreed. I'd also like to see how ACF-50 compares
@davidmichael19514 жыл бұрын
All in favor
@robertm59694 жыл бұрын
Agreed. My car is over 10 years old. I want to know that if I apply one of these products, will it "seal in" the rust and help it spread like a rubberized coating, or will it passivate it Fluid Film? The CRC and other products look impressive, but for now I'll play it safe with FF until I see the test on existing corrosion.
@phil17234 жыл бұрын
I have used the same Krown dealer for the last 30+ years on 7 new vehicles. Not one ever shown any rust and the city uses a lot of salt on the roads during winter and spring.
@WallyD_YT Жыл бұрын
I was rather surprised by the OP's results, but I do respect and appreciate his rather scientific approach. I agree with your observation Phil, and can attest to similar solid results with Krown for my 5 vehicles over 30+ years. A key point for me is that some products coat instead of penetrate internal areas where rust often begins and works its way out. Exterior coating alone with a product that is very viscous (thick) is a concern for me given it can trap moisture and rust. Products have to be thin enough to easily penetrate, flow in areas to displace water. One thing about Krown though is that you MUST be religious about it, not miss annual treatments. Great business model for them I suppose. Based on personal experience I am happy with it. Couple personal observations I offer about Krown... One, Krown seems to protect electrical stuff internally too (switches and wiring buried in doors cavities and such), which a general undercoating would not cover. Two, given it is an annual application I recommend it be applied in warmer weather so it can flow, penetrates better. Cheers.
@mubashircheentavida11 ай бұрын
Yep, 27 year old car, not one spec of rust in canadian winters.
@ParadigmUnkn0wn5 жыл бұрын
A slow seep from the rear main seal has always done the trick for my jeep. Those OEM cork seals seeped just enough to never actually get low on oil between changes, and it never left a drip on the pavement, but it coated the undercarriage quite nicely up front. A brush dipped in used motor oil will make quick work of any dry spots during oil changes.
@johnnymatias30273 жыл бұрын
Oddly extremely smart... cant rust if it’s covered in grease
@noobjitsu17438 ай бұрын
@@johnnymatias3027Its an old trick that works along with cow shit
@Kactapuss5 жыл бұрын
Keep this test going, I want to see those pieces in 2, 5, and 10 years!
@joq7024 жыл бұрын
Yes, I asked the same thing. Actually, it would be great if there was some safe way to attach the pieces to the wheel wells of a delivery vehicle like a FedEx or UPS and see how it does. Real world exposure is always best. Two year test would be best - I love the test, but would like also to see an old truck used which already has rust on it. Control part, front driver wheel well, and rocker panel and elbows where the rocker panels meet the wheel wells, do not spray anything. On passenger side, use CRC front wheel well and elbow down to the rocker panel. On back wheel well, use something else and compare. Only prep would be a very thorough power washing of the areas and drying it out before application. Same for the control side, power wash that side as well. Note any washing in the winter. In April check out how each area is doing.
@missingremote43884 жыл бұрын
I just sprayed my rusty undercarriage with the StaBil rust stopper. On a 25 y/o GM vehicle that was never treated before. Will post a follow up KZfaq video next spring.
@joq7024 жыл бұрын
@@missingremote4388 Thanks. Did you do much prep prior to spraying? Tell us what you did if you can.
@missingremote43884 жыл бұрын
@@joq702 my frame had surface rust mostly. Not flakes of rust. Removed a few scale spots with a ballpeen hammer; (but ignored most). Wire brushed frame to almost bare metal. Using a wire wheel on an electronic drill to remove dirt and rust/dust from frame. Additional wooden handle wire brushes for areas hard to reach. Then, used an air hose attached to a air compressor to blow out as much dust as quickly as I could. Then spay a coat. I sprayed 3 stripes along a frame rail. Then used a medium/small paint brush to smear the lines and get full coverage - I was going to wash it but didn't - no rags, or clean wipe down ( I've only driven by this truck 300 miles in the last 6 years) but keep it running, clean & registered/insured. - really: *no prep* is required for StaBil rust stopper to work. Spray it on top of painted metal and it will stop rust.
@davidmichael19514 жыл бұрын
All in favor
@benjaminallen23704 жыл бұрын
Awesome comparo man. I’ve used Fluid Film on my Tacoma for ~6 years.... video is spot on in that its great in non-direct water spray areas- inside frame rails, crevices etc- but washes away quickly from wheel wells, front-facing suspension. The crevices are where most salt/moisture hides though, so is sufficient in my moderate salt belt area (coastal RI). Perhaps adding CRC to exposed areas would assist.
@adamcoe8 ай бұрын
Agreed, I like the idea of combining them, as in "high traffic" areas so to speak, maybe you want something a little less likely to come off, so CRC works great, whereas in other areas that don't see as much abuse, and/or if it's an area you might want to access later and not deal with a ton of goo, something that comes off when you need it to is the right pick.
@fubartotale33893 жыл бұрын
Like to have seen "Wool Wax" included in the test, it's similar to Fluid Film, but thicker, they both are lanolin based. I would think Fluid film for an initial coating for the thin consistency and small gap filling, and Wool Wax for subsequent touch ups for durability.
@ChuckWilsonWilsonsStudio2 жыл бұрын
WoolWax FTW
@ronw.46673 жыл бұрын
Vermont winters are rough like all of the rust belt. Like many of us older guys I've been fighting rust for 50+ years. I've used many products. I've found there is NO one product solution for a vehicle. I love POR15 even with all the prep. Prep is the key. Also, it is a rust converter so it doesn't work so well on clean metal. The creep factor needed for crevasses just isn't there because of the prep needed and exposure to surfaces you don't want POR15 to touch. Fluid Film washes off wheel wells and etc. Not the best for that application I would suggest. For those of us who take pride in our beloved vehicles and/or can not afford to replace our vehicles as often as we would like, I believe time is well spent researching and then applying different products to the various parts of the vehicle. Example, my 2015 Silverado chrome rear bumper rusted on the inside. I removed the bumper, did all the prep and treated it with POR15. "Try it, you'll like it." My 1999 Silverado chrome bumper still looks new. Obviously this will not work inside your doors, boxed frames and etc. The creep factor of Fluid Film and other products is essential. In 1975 I bought a brand new Chevy truck for $3,700. My 2015 Silverado was about $80,000. Vert different trucks but still... You know what I'm saying! Put time into your investment and give it a hug now and then. Thanks for the video! Awesome! We need all the help we can get with this never ending battle.
@klassclown5 жыл бұрын
Rust Bullet - I’ve used it for years and swear by it. It requires NO prep and doesn’t fade under UV. It goes on thick, and is almost impossible to scratch off.
@jjack68964 жыл бұрын
A unique one step process with two united states patents Applies directly over rust UV resistant will not fade or crack Simple one step process, little or no preparation required No topcoat needed Brush, roll, or spray on Covers approximately 400 square feet, per gallon, per coat, depending on the porosity and texture of the substrate. A minimum two coat application is required. Directly from the site, they keep saying one step process then little or no prep and in the end two coats required. Sure is hard to believe a manufacture when they simply sugar coat everything. Makes me leery about the UV also since it said resistant.
@JohnnyFTD4 жыл бұрын
CRC did amazing, I might switch from film to that if I can find it cheap by the gallon. Time to cure is not a problem with multiple vehicles.
@lockburner20004 жыл бұрын
I think using both be great one thing about fluid film will keep creeping when the other will Not. Inside doors the fluid film will get in the pinch welds much more. CRC in wheel wells in high wash off places might work better. Wonder if CRC will soften with fluid film?
@Sardonic19814 жыл бұрын
@@lockburner2000 yeah combo would be killer, great observations and questions..
@VexingCode4 жыл бұрын
Use both, Fluid film definitely in the doors, and any plug holes. CRC for the wheel wells that can't wash off easily
@barryreid71275 жыл бұрын
I've used the Cosmoline RP-342 on all 3 of my work vehicles. All are prestine and rust-free going on year #4. Coatings stays intact on wheel wells too. Great video! Thanks for the comprehensive review.
@dantheman13375 жыл бұрын
Yes this stuff seems the ticket, clear winner. Any downsides?
@macmurfy2jka4 жыл бұрын
Dan E Garner it’s hard to get off?
@bullmoosepiper77323 жыл бұрын
@Repair Geek - thanks for putting together such a thorough review. Off the bat, I have no connection with any of these brand manufacturers, I'm just a truck owner who lives in the snow belt. My 2016 RAM, which came used to the States from Alberta, has been sprayed with Krown since day 1 before it ever saw snow. What I can say is that now, 5 years on, the truck literally has no rust anywhere on it except the exhaust pipe - which Krown doesn't warranty and is very transparent about that up front. Krown does not make any claim of efficacy on bare metal. All I know is that when I take my truck to the stealership for warranty repairs, the techs always tell the service manager they can't believe the truck has no rust on it and want to know what that oily coating is on the undercarriage. I think there are many good products on the market. I like Fluid Film too. In the snow belt, any coating is better than no coating. I get it sprayed each year and have had nothing but success with it. That said, are there better products? Probably so and I don't discount any good work you did in this video. Just sharing my personal experience with it. Thanks again!
@RepairGeek3 жыл бұрын
You are not the first person to say that they have had a good experience with Krown. I have no reason to doubt what you are saying that you've had good results. I even went as far as testing Krown a second time the following winter after this video thinking I had an error in my testing. The results were the same each time. If it works for you great but, other stuff would too.
@RobertKohut5 жыл бұрын
Nice!! My opinion is stay away from "hard" coatings since eventually they separate away and trap moisture under them. Annual applications of most any product designed for vehicle rust prevention probably will work well. I was surprised at the Krown results!!?? I like the LPS 3 the best from your results, it seems to hold a durable "waxy" type of coating that in my opinion would provide for a long lasting coating and ultimately long lasting protection. I think it's important to consider plastic and rubber reactions to the coatings as well as moisture displacement and "creeping" characteristics to penetrate seams and the like. Great comparisons!! Thanks.
@Johns3675 жыл бұрын
Is the crc a hard coating
@jamesryan19395 жыл бұрын
Thank you for doing this, 10 years of Fluid Film in PA 3 trucks, no rust.
@johnoquinn50495 жыл бұрын
Which brand do you use?
@quadpit5 жыл бұрын
@@johnoquinn5049 He named Fluid Film as what he used
@jamesryan19395 жыл бұрын
@@Dr.Ticklebum69 I reapply each fall, never wash the under body.
@hhamilton63913 жыл бұрын
Hi James - did any of your trucks have rust on them to start? and if so did you scrape/ sand or pressure wash before the first application? thanks! great video, but my truck is already rusty....
@jamesryan19393 жыл бұрын
@@hhamilton6391 no, all brand new.
@pedlpower5 жыл бұрын
Great comparison! Thank you. I use CRC for undercarriage and frame and Fluid Film for inside the panels.
@donaldsmith37874 жыл бұрын
Sounds like a great combo! How's that working for you?
@JayyBird932 жыл бұрын
What’s wrong with using CRC inside the panels?
@pedlpower2 жыл бұрын
@@donaldsmith3787 Sorry for the late reply! It's working well except that I sprayed the FF in the panels in the Fall. Come Summer it heats up and runs. A little seeped out of the rear hatch onto the carpet. No biggie though. It's our beater car.
@pedlpower2 жыл бұрын
@@JayyBird93 I think that the FF creeps into seams better. The CRC seems thicker and sticks to the undercarriage better. CRC is also more expensive at my local store so I save a little $.
@pinoyboyfernandez43963 жыл бұрын
I have to sign in just to give it a like. You save people time and can choose product. This is a great thorough content. Thank you brother
@kyleoldham19994 жыл бұрын
Krown is one of my favourite products, for inner panel protection because it has an excellent creeping agent rockers cab, corners any sheet metal you need to get into to spray it is best because it will get up and move around, using a thick agent like fluid film is best for frames and water washed areas I use both products with great confidence in conjunction
@kyleoldham19994 жыл бұрын
I don't think it matters too much! As long as it's coated
@jason867684 жыл бұрын
Great test overall and I think you did a good job thoroughly testing all the products, except for por15. POR15 does require several prep steps, which you mentioned, and which you didn't follow at all! You must clean & degrease it, Then you really should use their metal ready stuff on it, ESPECIALLY if its BARE UNRUSTED METAL! Then apply 2 coats of the por15 coating. Also, por15 adheres best to RUSTED metal (with loose stuff knocked off). You should've left that piece rusty, and then properly prepped it per por15s instructions, before coating it. Because of that, I believe you didn't give the por15 a fair chance. It should not have come off from pressure washing!
@dethmaul4 жыл бұрын
Is it like paint, if the surface is clean does it need to be sanded rough for it to adhere to something?
@jason867684 жыл бұрын
@@dethmaul Yes. POR15 needs a rough surface to bite into for best adhesion. Their own instructions state that rusted surfaces are best (with loose rust knocked off first), sandblasted surfaces are second best. Smooth/shiny surfaces will not allow POR15 to adhere well at all, and must be roughed up with sandpaper first. And always use their Cleaner/Degreaser and Metal-Ready prep washes first.
@skibuddy13054 жыл бұрын
@@jason86768 if you put POR on correct it is basically indestructible. Makes your whole video a waste of time.
@bugalaman11 ай бұрын
I want to see all of these mixed together. It would either make a dangerous gas cloud or the most impervious coating known to man.
@John5ive4 жыл бұрын
I live in upstate NY winter is about the same as you mentioned. others have said they appreciate this research. I do as well. You're so right in other videos that vehicles rust out before the engine stops. that's why these coatings are so important. your tests are really helpful. thank you!!!
@SweetSpringFarmer12224 жыл бұрын
This is about the best informational video I've watched on KZfaq - Good work, Repair Geek, and Thank You!
@MarkThomas1235 жыл бұрын
Thanks for taking the time to do the extended review.. Lots of good information... I think I am going to spray (On an older vehicle with rust already), Phosphoric Acid to convert the rust to Ferrick Phosphate (black color FePO4) which protects the undercarriage against more rust, and then, I think I am going to apply a home made rust preventative, under the vehicle, and something inside of the doors, door jams, etc.. Might be two different home made products.. Inside of the doors, jams, etc,, something fluid that will coat and run into crevaces, etc.. I am thinking Antifreeze.. Rust and Corrosion prevention and Lubrication, I think non-conductive, but, will wash off under the vehicle.. I will have to see if something will mix with it, if I use it under the vehicle, but, something that won't come off so easily under the vehicle.. Thinking maybe some Chainsaw bar oil, or along those lines.. I hate to work on something after a coating like that, but, heck.. What's worse.. Tossing a vehicle that is perfectly mechanically sound due to rust, or, getting a little dirtyer when working on it.. I have a 97GMC Z71, I really, really like, but, rust has me getting rid of her.. Perfectly mechanically sound, but, the rust is pretty bad.. Grrr... I live in North Carolina, so, not getting salted every day, but, it doesn't take a daily dose of it.. Just run the roads after a salt application and the road is wet and that shit will get Everywhere... Who knows.. If the Phosphoric Acid does like it should, I might even do some repairs and keep the truck...
@boots78592 жыл бұрын
This is an excellent test, verging on Project Farm level. My strong suggestion is to do the same test, only with all the pieces rusted, and test the various rust remover/encapsulators first, then the above. Thats going to be the normal way/conditions wherein the products will be used.
@chewykarma2 жыл бұрын
Simply outstanding. I too live in NE Ohio, and keeping a car together here is not easy. This will help those of us who like to drive team after the payments are done. Thanks!
@cddsix3 жыл бұрын
Hi this is awesome. My go to is boiled linseed oil because it is cheap and dries to a semi permeable self healing coat that does not trap moisture. You can brush it on or thin it with mineral spirits and spay it out of an windex type bottle. Plus you don’t have to prep. Once it dries it trays on fo years like paint
@stevel14752 жыл бұрын
Nice coating test, always cool to see the test winner. Glad you tested Krown, I am more informed. The Por15 is not UV stable, most likely developed a small fracture and seperated when pressure washed. Maybe next time you can paint the other half of test piece with an additional top coat paint as manufacturer recommends. Keep it up! 👍
@timdrake93264 жыл бұрын
Excellent video. Thank you for spending time doing this. I was almost ready to get Krown coating too.
@plavins14 жыл бұрын
There is a great way to use rubberized undercoating in mix with wax type fluid film. Prep surface, spray with rubberized undercoat, and then just before its dry spray it over with waxy fluid film. the fluid film seeps in to the undercoating and does not allow to go super dry and crack. the rubberized undercoat acts as a sort of sponge to hold the wax in and does not allow it to fully wash off. works like a charm.
@GoaWay...2 жыл бұрын
Really? I was wondering if you could mix those type products. Do you think crc would work well with the por15 too?
@plavins12 жыл бұрын
@@GoaWay... Sorry Im not familiar with these products. I just use what they got at the auto body supply store. I just ask for undercoating and cavity wax
@jamesschmidt1120 Жыл бұрын
I sprayed cosmoline on my truck frame over 2 years ago. It’s still there and not showing any signs of coming off any time soon. I think it’s the best product
@You1987Tuber3 жыл бұрын
Impressive.. this just might be the most informative, useful video I've seen on KZfaq. Bravo!
@jmackinjersey14 жыл бұрын
After being around cars for a majority of my life, either as a mechanic/technician, sales or Frame and Body Technician and seeing all of these products that have come and gone, and those that need to go, there are a few things to take into consideration when or if you decide to apply something like this to the vehicle. The factory releases their vehicles with a rust inhibitor already. That being said, just like the paint on the outside, the undercarriage needs to be maintenanced from time to time. But one of the reasons these don't work is because of improper prep. Many people simply spray or apply these chemicals to a dirty car/frame. Others think that simply pressure washing the vehicle for a few minutes will do the trick. Often times a person will use some sort of degreaser while they pressure wash it. And then there are professionals that will take the time to pressure wash, degrease and then prep the undercarriage and then USE THE SAME PRODUCT THAT THE FACTORY USES. Trying to add a new product on top of another one without actually removing the old stuff is not the best way to go. Yes, your method was bare metal, which is a test base, and shows those specific results. As I said before, there is already some sort of rust proofing applied to vehicles. The other issue is with the ones that stay tacky and allow debris to stick to it can/will cause certain areas to cake debris, which tends to attract and hold moisture, sand, salt in cracks and crevices, which as we know attributes to corrosion. The other MAJOR MISTAKE that a TON of people, both DIY and some "professionals" make is that they CLOG holes that the Manufacturer puts in the various parts, which then creates a pocket and the inside of the rails, body panels, etc. and corrosion starts to destroy the vehicle from the inside out, and no one can see or treat it until it is too late. Again, the best way to take care of this issue is to wash your vehicle, from top to bottom on a WEEKLY BASIS, even and especially during the winder/salty months. Then when it is warmer, get under/put the car on a lift, and inspect everything. If you see corrosion starting to form, address that one spot. If there are some bolts heads or threads/nuts that are corroding more than normal, address those by hitting them with a wire brush and maybe some black paint. But if there is an area of the body or frame rails etc that are starting to have some surface rust or scale, then address the issue and then get the SAME TYPE of undercoating that the Factory uses or recommends. You can get some "undercoating in a can" and reapply it to those problem areas. Make sure that you mask off anything you don't want to get spray on, like the exhaust, bumper, fender lip, roll pan etc. because once it dries, it is not nice to remove. Plus it doesn't smell good when it burns off of the exhaust. Please, don't simply spray something on the bottom of your car and think it will stop rust/corrosion from happening. Also, make sure it is compatible with the factory applied product as well as the metals and alloys that are being used by the manufacturer. I have also seen products used that actually caused corrosion on alloys.
@sageRJRJ3 жыл бұрын
This is exactly why I read comments - and go searching on forums for that matter. Thank you so much for your professional opinion. This is exactly what I was wondering and why I was watching videos on the subject. I wish every information/procedural video on the internet had a professional's unbiased and THOROUGH explanation of all the perspectives to consider. As opposed to "here's what I do so do this" which encompasses the majority of these "How To's." So thank you again, I'll be skipping an undercoating on my brand new car and washing the underside regularly instead.
@jmackinjersey13 жыл бұрын
@@sageRJRJ Simply keep an eye on the undercarriage as well as under the fenders etc. Keep in mind that you will see some surface rust in some places, so pay special attention to those places. If you see them getting worse, go to the dealership or find out which local Professional Body shop is CERTIFIED by that specific manufacturer to perform that type of work.
@craiggerlach55483 жыл бұрын
wouldn't one of these products be better than just letting it continue to be exposed? I am poor, crippled up and my classic car paint came off underside after 1 ride in winter to a Dr appointment. Was looking at cosmoline or one of the wax style coatings and thought I could wipe some ospho on it one day and paint on another wax product the next day and hope for best.. I could not hold power tools and do underside the right way, no access to lift.. and was hoping better than just letting it stay exposed... if I were still in my prime I would lift body off frame, blast everything, degrease and apply some Tamco DTM epoxy on it.. for others, sure they wanted to ask, what does the factory use, say for GM other other common domestics. Most the rides I've seen were just painted on bottom side.. I worked at a dealership and we didn't have anything special, seemed like they bought different products or had a range of them depending on what the customer requested.. my lift was next to the lift they sprayed with and I'd get in trouble when product hit car I was working on so I quit..lol
@jmackinjersey13 жыл бұрын
@@craiggerlach5548 I hear you, it is confusing with all of the stuff on the shelves and now the internet (what used to be limited to the television commercials and car mag ads. The main thing to remember when applying any of them, even factory applications/recoats is that the surface absolutely has to be cleaned and prepped properly. You also need to ensure that all of the factory holes are left clean/free of debris or coating. Even working in a body shop, it can be hard to find out what is and is not supposed to be covered, but the info is available to professional shops. This is one of the many reasons that manufacturers are starting to make it where body shops are Certified to be able to work on their cars, or the shops will not be able to get genuine parts, paint etc. The new and ever/always changing or improving manufacturing methods and welding/gluing procedures and alloys means that this is an important issue, and as a professional body technician, I agree with their stance on this. I mean, did you hear about the body shop that replaced the roof of the Honda Fit car, and that car was then sold and was involved in a wreck? www.thedrive.com/news/15027/couple-awarded-42-million-for-crash-injuries-after-body-shop-glues-on-replacement-roof
@j.d.williams71253 жыл бұрын
Actually, washing your vehicle frequently here in the Northeast is a terrible idea, as what the salt loves most is warmer water to creep into all those areas that many folks don't undercoat, rusting the vehicle from the inside out. I undercoat professionally and take off all of the splashguards, fender liners, mudflaps, rocker panel and other plastic trim if equipped to thoroughly get into these areas. Personally, I use Fluid Film but I think the key is regular (yearly) cleaning and application, if it's an oil-based product. I've seen dealer undercoating, and, while it's effective where applied, they don't take off ANYthing to spray behind. I'm sure their fine print excludes them from responsibility down the road.
@larsdahl65945 жыл бұрын
I did a similar test myself and the Cosmoline RP-342 beat the other twenty-or-so products I tried quite handily, even with just one coat. If you live in an area with snow and road salt you're doing yourself a disservice if you leave your vehicle untreated, shaving years off its life. It will literally die from rust while still mechanically sound. In my area it's quite common to see three-year-old pickup trucks with gaping rust holes along the lower doors, rocker panels and wheel arches. Pro-tip: Don't forget the cavities; your car may look good on a perfunctory inspection all the while it's rusting from the inside out.
@JA-fn7le5 жыл бұрын
Lars? How many cans to treat a crew cab truck?
@johnvandevusse61235 жыл бұрын
Yes how many cans for a crew cab. Would nine cans be enough?
@larsdahl65945 жыл бұрын
@@JA-fn7le @John Vande Vusse I bought a gallon and a mid-priced HVLP gun, but I imagine 9-12 aerosol cans would be plenty enough for a truck. Just make sure you get extension tubes for the cavities. The biggest difference between aerosol and HVLP (IMO) is that the latter gives you a finer mist that I imagine would yield better coverage as well as being more economical in the long run.
@shamwaymoonyos95784 жыл бұрын
For me on my 2015 WRX (as of this writing almost 62K miles) I had done the NH undercoat a few years back. I live in New York and drive the car daily. Had gone to a shop and I was under the car while the dude was spraying the undercarriage. I had cleaned the undercarriage before going. Was sprayed in all accessible nooks and crannies that I could see. It attracted dirt and got on you when working on car. My garage thought I had blown something and oil sprayed everywhere lol. I was told to do the undercoat yearly but never did it after that. As of this writing I've used CRC rubberized undercoat a few times afterwards. I did not remove the NH undercoat and it seems to be doing a good job. Just the other day I took a screwdriver and stabbed/hit parts of the undercarriage and didn't seem like I had a rust issue. I'm sure that the car is rusting elsewhere that it was not treated but knock on wood so far so good... I know my muffler system will not rust since I've replaced J-Pipe and catback along with various other components that were rusty when removed. One thing to note is the rubberized undercoat made it SUPER difficult to get the front and rear diff drain plugs off. I got the rear one off much easier after using heat gun a bit and 1/2 cheater ratchet. For the front used impact gun. So yeah the undercoat while it protects well it also definitely makes it much messier and more difficult to work on the car. Hoping to keep the car for many more miles :)
@davevirag54235 жыл бұрын
I never had a problem with Rust Check spray! You have to do it every year like Krown which is very similar! It is worth it! Never had any rust form on any parts of my Chevrolet! Rust Check will also re-spray an area that was repaired from a collision free of charge too!
@johnqpublic90744 жыл бұрын
It's a Canadian product only, the continental types won't know what your talking aboot... lol
@travispratt63273 жыл бұрын
The pressure washer is a great idea, good way to simulate splashing and spray while driving, well done I’ll stick with my crc marine, cheapest and seems to hold up as well as any premium products.
@MOE1357610 ай бұрын
Not really
@rfban14 жыл бұрын
I live in Detroit and go to Windsor Ontario to get the car sprayed with fluid film. It’s $100 at Canadian tire.
@ICU-th7qj4 жыл бұрын
I am in the wrong business than! I spray mine myself in about 30 mins I need to start a business for this
@MaliciousSRT4 жыл бұрын
That isn't fluid film, its called corrosion free. It has no odor and doesn't drip, a lot pf people say its the best one out there. Its also what the Canadian military uses.
@DCSPORTSTER3 жыл бұрын
@@MaliciousSRT corrosion free is what I’m using now it seems really good but I’ve also had good luck with fluid film and Krown. I had a van that I had spray yearly. Sometimes with Krown and dripless oil and fluid film. It lasted 28 years before I sent it to the wreckers. Was driven daily through Ontario winters the land of salt snow. 456,000 km on the clock.
@MaliciousSRT3 жыл бұрын
@@DCSPORTSTER I had mine done with it before winter, I still get it on my hands when popping the hood or rear gate. Good stuff!
@theswissarmyman11254 жыл бұрын
Very helpful video. Just bought a new truck from a dealer ship and they tried to sell me an undercoating. I am an engineer by trade and asked some material and application questions and the sales men could not answer them. He is going to find out from the service department what kind of undercoating and rust prevention they are selling. After researching and making inquires of my own it may not matter what it is. Input cost of these products is drastically cheaper then the one being offered by the dealership with the same if not better results yielded. Thanks for taking the time to put this video together, for using good scientific practices in your experiment, and for creating an effective method for communicating the results.
@markf57354 жыл бұрын
Thanks for taking the time and expense to do this test. My local Fluid Film shop, which I have been pleased with, just switched to NH Oil. I was thinking about trying it, but I'll find a new shop instead.
@josepires43452 жыл бұрын
I know this is a couple of years old so how has your experience been so far not going with NH Oil?….I ask because I have been using NH Oil for a few years now and happy with the results so far….but always willing to try something that’s better.
@loktom40685 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your video results with clean bare metals. But there's majority of car owners actually applies these rust prevention undercoating after a few weeks - a year after their vehicles purchase. The product that is going to have the best results in those situations would probably be Fluid Film, Krown, and other oil penetrating undercoating products. All others are not good for it once dust, dirt, moisture, and multiple surface paint chips or minor surface rust sets in.
@ommaigod2 жыл бұрын
Now THAT's what I call a well done comparison review.
@moultonditcher61875 жыл бұрын
What I've noticed,from spraying,and use in other areas,as a lube,anything that has a paraffin base OR WAX base long term parts protector or rust preventative usually will out perform other products.In heavy industry,before we package parts in a warehouse,we spray with a parrifin base long term parts protector.I tried it on my vehicles,its wax base,and it hangs tougher than any other product.Any wax base will last much longer and will "creep" in the hot summer temps.I also bought a new VW in the early 90's and the germans undercoat using wax base also,that told me something right there,and that golf did not rust for years.Just an FYI based on my experience.GREAT video!!I use spray on all my hobby farm equip,it works!!
@scooterpie6965 жыл бұрын
I have been waiting for a rust proofing shoot out video. Awesome. Thanks.
@cook18765 жыл бұрын
Great reviews. Was very surprised by the performance or lack of by krown. I've been using fluid film for a few years now with excellent results. Some of the other products look interesting but I think I'll stick with what I know works. Fluid film is an amazing product. Just wish it didn't wash off so easily.
@4orrcountry4 жыл бұрын
That's why it needs to be re-applied annually.
@4orrcountry4 жыл бұрын
Note: cost varies, but $150.00 U.S. for medium size vehicles.
@privatedata6652 жыл бұрын
I live in the NE Pennsylvania Rust Belt .2 years ago I treated a 2019 Nissan Frontier with CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor in some areas and WoolWax& Fluid Film on 90% of the underside . I was under the truck today to recoat with B'laster Surface Shield . The truck looks outstanding underneath . The was a small amount of rust on the spare tire steel wheel on the welds and there was rust on the frame welds where it was never treated . The rest of the truck had zero rust . All the Bolts and brake/fuel lines look new . I retreated all ares today with the B'laster . Well worth the effort just be prepared that these products do attract road dirt especially on the passenger side . The CRC "only "areas look great and it seemed to attract far less dirt than fluid film . CRC will chip so keep that in mind .
@valleukin96242 жыл бұрын
I live in Canada. Krown is heavily marketed as the best. I used it and still some rust came but it was always on used vehicleS. They claim it must be a new vehicle with zero rust for the claims to stop rust from starting and spreading etc. They offer free body repairs but the fine print gives them a loophole. I asked the technicians who apply it professionally and they all say once rust starts it cannot be stopped. It can only be slowed down. I always had my suspicions of the claims that Krown, rust control makes as being the best. Thank you for this video it confirmed my observations of seeing a dry and rust formed under body of my vehicle in the middle of the winter. The one good thing about Krown, is because it is thin it will get in all the tight and hard to reach areas of your vehicle for protection. But the areas that are directly exposed to the salt and brine solutions they use on the roads it cannot stop the rust. THIS IS AN EXCELLENT VIDEO SHOWING THE PROS AND CONS OF DIFFERENT PROTECTANTS. THANK YOU. AAA+ - Side note. Use Krown in the spring or summer after you have desalted your car. Apply Krown, then because rust becomes more active in warm weather.
@jimdiavastes4 жыл бұрын
Well done video - Amsoil HD is available as low as about $10 for amsoil members - and the can is much larger than most
@jodyg74522 жыл бұрын
correct....
@tommenzel35914 жыл бұрын
Thank You Repair Geek ... for all the time, money & effort put forth here .... I redo Fluid Film on my semi & pick-up every fall ..... really fights the battle against road salt & brine ..... I wish " we " would go back to sanding ONLY ....... Let the people who must speed in the winter crash ... the Darwinian Effect will prevail ..............................
@seanoleary19794 жыл бұрын
AMEN BROTHER!!!!!!!!!!
@johnqpublic90744 жыл бұрын
Fyi, Your using POR15 incorrectly. It stands for "paint over rust". Paint it over rust. It chemically bonds to the metal. If the metal is clean it won't adhere. It's also affected by uv and needs to be top coated.
@harrytinker23284 жыл бұрын
You're right. But it can adhere well to clean metal if you acid etch first, like with their "metal ready" phosphoric acid product.
@evan9375 жыл бұрын
Krown is a good product. It has decades of positive results to back it up. The spray can's you can buy are going to be thinner because it is in Aerosol form. I would imagine the product is a lot thicker when applied at an actual shop. If you are doing it at home I would apply it once a month to ensure it stays coated.
@Al-jv2xb5 жыл бұрын
Is that 12 times a year?
@anthonygillesse72424 жыл бұрын
Thanks for all your work Cosmoline all the way
@joemores61963 жыл бұрын
That's what I'm thinking :)
@jonnyg93303 жыл бұрын
Worked well for every Russian gun I've ever bought
@vintagecardcurator4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for putting the time in...great study and results. I've been using Fluid Film for a while and your results make me feel better about that.
@DC9Douglas3 жыл бұрын
Same here, i use about 25 gals of Fluid Film a year for my fleet of plow/salt trucks.
@Zombiecidal4 жыл бұрын
I had an appointment booked in a few days to get a $300 Krown coating put on and I cancelled it because of your research, thanks man you saved me money and my car
@petrolekh9 ай бұрын
Excellent, going with with the CRC wax-film. Heard great things about these and the video confirmed it.
@michaelsalice99524 жыл бұрын
Best rust proofing that I have found is to live in the South....
@debramckee38443 жыл бұрын
unless you live near the coast in the south like a beach then you're right back here :)
@fubartotale33893 жыл бұрын
I'll go with the rust.
@crisvillarreal97773 жыл бұрын
@@fubartotale3389 more room for us ya yankee
@kevingliebe56073 жыл бұрын
The far west (Nevada, Arizona, Utah, NM) is even better. No humidity. Cars left in the desert stay preserved for decade after decade after decade
@mrraff693 жыл бұрын
@@kevingliebe5607 I’m from Ohio and went out to Northern California years back and I was blown away by the clean 50 year old cars and trucks.
@GreatDrums.5 жыл бұрын
First things first, excellent video and I really appreciate the time and effort you t to do this took to do this test. As a Canadian who's vehicle sees salt yearly, Krown used to be decent before when they had a thicker coating, over the years I've noticed they reformulated it to be thinner and more watered down, IMO it's not effective at all. Not mention the technicians only spray where you can see and drill a bunch of holes in your vehicle frame. I wouldn't recommend it. From your test's I think I'm going with LPS3 or Fluidfilm. Subbed! Cheers bud!
@stevel14752 жыл бұрын
Ya older cars don't have much access to the inner panels. So they gotta drill holes to rustproof them then plug it up. Either it you have rust holes or you have drilled access holes and a well taken care vehicle.
@Lexus_Robb5 жыл бұрын
Repair Geek One thing to note about NH Oil is the difference between the black & the clear. The black is tinted because it has graphite mixed in. Other than that awesome comparison and video. 👍
@originalfrigmedic49313 жыл бұрын
I used CRC400 on my new 98 Ranger XLT supercab and 22 years later the rockers, tailgate, drivers door have no rust whatsoever. The passenger door has a fist size hole at bottom because I missed that area. Even the aluminum driveshaft looks new and frame is solid. No bolts have been hard to remove for suspension maintenance either. It has 230,000 miles of daily driving in Michigan weather and salt there are no Rangers from that year that aren't piles of rust so I have to say that any type like fluid film or CRC 300, 350, or 400 like I used will save your investment. Thanks for the video.
@ozzstars_cars5 жыл бұрын
What the heck took me so long to find your channel? Good stuff! Subbed!
@skyline53542 жыл бұрын
I’ve been using Krown for years and my car looks in very good condition. Now comparing it to the spray can of Krown, is there a difference between the spray can and the professional stuff they use at the Krown shops?
@steve8803 Жыл бұрын
@It's the same thing. I prefer rust check, they use their coat and protect formula for the undercoating which has more of a gel like consistency and will last a lot longer than the thin liquid spray krown uses.
@nathanleroux2424 Жыл бұрын
Krown is good for inside of doors and body panels. It stays in liquid form so it can run into places that didn't get sprayed. I use a hydride method of Krown inside doors and panels and Fluid film everywhere else. I reapply every season and use had good results.
@tempusfugit68204 жыл бұрын
Krown is quite bad. I did my own little comparison between Fluidfilm, Rust Check and Krown. 3 pieces of clean bare metal from the same bar. I sprayed them once a day with a brine solution made with de icing salt and water. After 3 days the piece treated with Krown started to rust and was entirely rusted after a week. Rust Check held the rust off better and took a couple of weeks to show rust. Fluid fill protected the metal for 3 weeks before showing some rust. I'll never go back to a Krown shop with my car.
@leonwurr5 жыл бұрын
amazing video and dedication man! thank you for this! this is proper testing
@reedstemen4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for doing this test. This is exactly what I wanted to do this fall and you did it already. Thank you!
@Al-jv2xb5 жыл бұрын
This was not an Idea and an instant video to make and I commend you for your diligence and patience in it's making. It is unbiased and shows the stamina that Fluid Film has. While others use solvents FF does not. In Canada it can be used in food manufacturing plants, it will not harm the environment. It does not need to drip off your vehicle to work that is just an excuse others use to justify their thin weight product and it's ability to cling to the surface.
@nathane93855 жыл бұрын
While I also appreciate his video, once you make a personal investment of purchasing and using one of the products tested on your own/families vehicle the test becomes biased. I will say however, that to the best of your ability you gave a fair assessment of all the products and their outcome. :)
@dbradshaw91413 жыл бұрын
CRC also won another shoot out . Was CRC Heavy Duty Marine Corrosion Protectant, probably same stuff.. Seems it is the best compromise for protection , cost , ease of use , not attracting dirt or being sticky forever...great video
@germanboy53924 жыл бұрын
I love smell of fluid film....great video for such a young guy...like a Scientist!
@erichimes30625 жыл бұрын
Applying POR 15 to your control sample will give you superior results, because it works with surface rust, and will not bond as well to clean metal as it does to prepared surface rust.
@RepairGeek5 жыл бұрын
POR15's instructions say rusted or sandblasted metal is acceptable for coating. www.por15.com/POR-15-Technical-Information_ep_62.html
@adamkline87625 жыл бұрын
@@RepairGeek maybe the etching solution would have helped? also : "POR-15 is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated before prolonged exposure to sunlight. " ... if it wasnt topcoated perhaps that's why it broke down and peeled? what do you think?
@RepairGeek5 жыл бұрын
@@adamkline8762 you're right that is something I didn't do but, POR15 is the only product in this test that requires multiple steps. If you go back and watch the video I was able to peel POR15 from the back side as well, where it wasn't exposed to light. The rubberized undercoating is broken down by UV light as well and had no adhesion problems. I applied POR15 the way 90% of the users of that product would. I can't see a chemical etch creating a rougher surface than sandblasting and POR15 peeled from the inside of the test panel where UV light wasn't a problem. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@garyalford93944 жыл бұрын
Por 15 is terrible to work with !!
@TylerBemis5 жыл бұрын
I use NH oil (they are local to my area) I spray my truck twice a year once in the early summer once in the early fall before the snow comes though. I notice far better results in terms of the coating spreading and adhering itself to the frame when it’s applied at higher temps. One part of your testing that NH oil and other companies use to help keep the product sealed in is its capacity to get dust and dirt to stick to the coating allowing for the interior of the coating to stay protected to the frame. I notice in about 6 months I’m due for a touch up application
@kesando844 жыл бұрын
Tyler Bemis exactly. This test didn’t account for NH Oil’s ability to spread over time due to application in a warmer month. Most of my coating (back to black) was still intact a year later
@bret97412 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the testing. I’ve use Ziebart on the last pickup. Your at the mercy of the quality of the installer and also the condition of the vehicle when first coated. I’ve used fluid film on a work van in some test area. So far so good. I really do like the black version of the RP-342 and the clear version on surfaces I don’t want to be blacked out. Truthfully, I think something went wrong with the test. I believe the surface needs to be primed with POR metal prep. I believe it helps with adhesion. Here is where I would use the POR15. I’d use on clean rust free metal that needs a show car finish. For example, I’d use it on the differential housing, frame, and metal brackets that are visible on a pickup that sits very high and I want to make /Keep it looking like new or better. I’d also use on surfaces that might see quite of bit of walking or dragging cargo over if I couldn’t use LineX. I really believe for most folks, if you don’t mind a waxy coating and time is of the essence on application and you plan on light touch ups every year….. I believe the WoolWax and Fluid Film to be great effective options. Now, I have a 2007 F-150 that I purchased this summer from a single owner that kept it parked most of its life. It spent its entire life in south Texas and smelt new when I opened the door, it has 68,000 miles on it. Anyway, I live near Cleveland and have garages it until next spring. This winter, if I can find time, I’m going to put it up on a lift, pull the tires, all the skid plates, the wheel well liners, the interior door panels, floor plates, head lights, tail lights, spare tire and and all of the access plugs and panels on the quarter panels. Basically any place that salt water can reach. I’m going to use: (1) POR15 with primer on the suspension parts like the front brackets and parts of the brake rotors etc that I can coat when I install new rotors. These all have some light chipping and very light surface rust. I want to clean them back up. I’ll order powder coated calipers (Note I’ve used the power stop powder coated calipers many times over the years. They don’t rust unless damage to the top coat occurs. The rotors need a new coat of paint every single year and of course will rust where the pads rub). (2) RP-342 heavy duty “clear” on all the surfaces that I can hit and insure a solid coating. I’ll put two coats on it. Clear will allow any future buyer to see I’ve just sprayed a protective coating over the factory paint or primer. (3) after the POR15 is set up, And I’ve gotten two coats of the TP-342. I’ll spray everything else that needs protection with either Fluid Film or Wool Was. For example inside the doors, inside the quarter panels, frame, and hard to reach areas that a wet oily wax Can reach and penetrate. I’ve found the 360 sprayer tip needs a half dozen passes inside a long Barron cavity to fully cover the steel. The great thing about wool wax or fluid film is they kind of act like WD-40 and literally penetrate steel surface areas that are dirty or tightly pushed together. For example, where pinch welds come together and you can get behind or spray directly on the seam. The lanolin oils will literally work their way deeply into the seams and pores of metals. I again the route I’m going is based on cosmetic considerations. When I’m Done it will look a bit nicer and show far less dust etc. But it absolutely will take me 3 times longer than just coating everything with Fluid Film or WoolWax.
@trentriver5 жыл бұрын
Living in Toronto, we share pretty much the same climate. Just wanted to thank you for a very well done experiment and presentation. I was leaning toward RP 342, but if the CRC performs as well and is cheaper -- perhaps that is the way to go.
@chrstphrr5 жыл бұрын
I was just digging around after watching (out in Alberta), and found that NAPA Canada has that CRC product for less than all the resellers on Amazon.ca or .com, or other sources. I'm leaning toward one of the cosmolines, and treating over with fluid film over that. I may lean toward the LPS-3, if the cost of the other two together aren't less expensive, if I can find a decent and readily available source north of the border.
@mikerussell54545 жыл бұрын
@@chrstphrr Any luck finding cheap options? I am GTA area but I am sure many of the same vendors
@johnqpublic90744 жыл бұрын
In YYC, find anywhere that sells RP 342? Looks like a winner for our salt and rocks...
@davidmichael19514 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing! We need to know this stuff, here in NEOhio!
@eddy674 жыл бұрын
SW ohioan here - well said! I see tons of rusted out cars & trucks driving around every day and we don't even get half the snow you guys do. The salt is a killer!
@mikebee5154 жыл бұрын
Yep bout to get some crc for that good Cincinnati salt!
@dietersmythe9649 Жыл бұрын
Cosmoline was once used to protect cars coming over from Japan. It was removed with a mixture of hot water, kerosene and soap. Very informative video!👍
@Sirgromulus4 жыл бұрын
As a long-time scientist in the coatings industry, I can say that you conducted a very objective experimental comparison! Other variables you can consider for (any) future experiments involve coating over partially rusted substrate and perhaps over a factory frame/under-body coating. There are so many corrosion inhibitors on the market these days. I (also residing in NE Ohio) have had our cars treated with Corrosion Free at a local applicator the past few years. This Canadian based company "warrants" the product if re-applied very 18 months. They do sell the bulk material as well as an aerosol version on their website.One of the DIY products on the market that I would be interested in is Boshield T-9, ,supposedly developed by Boeing. This is available in aerosol form via Amazon. Keep up the great work!
@RepairGeek4 жыл бұрын
I looked at coating parts that had a slight amount of surface rust but, I'm looking for fast results. Nothing will rust faster than non-rusted bare metal. If the product works without rust, it will work with rust as well. As long as the moisture is displaced and oxygen cannot get to the surface of the metal, rust cannot form. As far as coating over a factory paint or E-coat the issue with that is not every car manufacture uses the same paint/coatings formulations. Ford may have a better formulation than let's say Nissan. If I use Ford's formulation it skews the results for Nissan vehicles. At the end of the day, if rust doesn't form on a piece of bare metal, it's going to stop rust on a painted surface as well. Even a previously rusted part, the rust will not progress. Bare parts are also much easier from a visualization perspective for video purposes.
@Sirgromulus4 жыл бұрын
@Frost Not trying to push anything Junior. I am 61 years old and have been working in the coatings industry for nearly 40 years. You can believe it or not, just making comments and giving kudos to Repair Geek for his good work. I had several of our (new cars) treated with Corrosion Free but have applied Fluid Film myself to a couple of our older cars. Just trying to ascertain as much comparison information as I can.
@Kactapuss5 жыл бұрын
Thanks - i found that very informative. In my case I would be curious in a test of spraying these over metal that was rusted already. In my case I have a classic car with some rust, I would like to choose a coating which will provide protection from it getting worse over out wet and salty winters. Additionally, my long term plans are to cut out the rust and weld in new metal. I think I will be choosing an "oily" liquid style coating. I expect that the fluid oily stuff will keep the rust from spreading but also be easy to remove when comes time to repair. In contrast I think por15, rubber undercoating, and the other products which "dry" would seal any rust and moisture under the coating where it would still continue to corrode and react (when sprayed over already rusty metal).
@joq7024 жыл бұрын
Yes, exactly. I do not have a lift and so prepping and spraying down the areas is not practical for me to do.
@ricksanchez38674 жыл бұрын
The POR15 would have worked better, it stands for paint over rust to adhere
@tjones03744 жыл бұрын
I would recommend a converter and primer, Corroseal, then possibly a compatible product for preventative.
@Kactapuss4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for commenting - I really do appreciate the opinions.. For me the only solution I will be happy with is to cut out the rust and weld in new metal. Doing what you recommend to the rusted out holes in my fenders is, in my opinion, a waste of converter, primer, corroseal, and preventative because it doesn't fix the holes Lol. When I dedicate time to spend the effort on a multi stage fix I will do it right, till then I think the Fluid Film will keep some rust at bay and less new rust from starting while not getting in the way of my future welded in patches. When I do the patches I'll use weld thru primer on the back, then prime, and paint and clearcoat.
@tjones03744 жыл бұрын
@@Kactapuss Sounds like a body off, chassis up restoration. Been there done that..... couple t shirts
@brockbookout54035 жыл бұрын
Great video! I’ll definitely go for CRC
@acdii4 жыл бұрын
Suggestion for another real world test, one that is more inline with the intention of these products. Already rusted painted metals, like what is found under cars. Even cars brand new on the lot will have some rusted metals, not everything is painted. So, what you do is take these same pieces of metal you used. Clean them thoroughly, then mask off half and paint it properly, metal etch, primer, and single stage like what is found underneath. Then unmask, and let them get a light coat of rust on them. Now treat them with the products without any cleaning up other than a degreaser and spray them with a salt solution before setting them outside for the winter. Those that come back without additional rusting would be the real winners to this test. I have a real world test going on right now under my F350 with Fluid Film. Bought it used and there are some rusted areas I tend to properly treat next year with a permanent rust conversion and repaint, but for now I have them all deflaked and fluid filmed. Will see if any rust grows or if they remain the way the are.
@SonnetGomes4 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for this demonstration. I used to use fluid film, but I have switched to Cosmoline RP 342. Hopefully I wont have to apply the cosmoline every year, unlike fluid film. Thanks once again for taking the time to post such an informative video.
@scubbarookie4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this test. As the results we're suprising and now I can draw a conclusion of what I'd want to use. 👍
@D6Spanky5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this video! I've been looking for a video just like this! Sounds like I'll be going with CRC!
@giancarlopenaherrera74154 жыл бұрын
How did the crc hold up? I'm planning on using this stuff too.
@D6Spanky4 жыл бұрын
@@giancarlopenaherrera7415 I wish I could say I have gotten that far! 🤣 I have been looking at a company called Lizard Skin out of Tucson. I'm going to likely use them instead. I'm doing this on a project car so I don't have as tight as a time-line as I'd like.
@GiancarloP934 жыл бұрын
Cosmoline products sound like the best choice. 1. It's mostly clear. You can actually see if the product is working 2. It cures to a solid/waxy finish. You don't have this oily mess with a ton of dirt and grime clinging to it 3. It does't come off easily. You could run it through a touchless car wash during the winters and not worry about the product washing off 4. IT WORKS!
@RepairGeek4 жыл бұрын
It doesn't creep or self heal. Also removing dried overspray is not easy.
@johnnyshd82503 жыл бұрын
I worked in body shops for 47 years. The word on the street for inside rust proofing is Seal-Out. Bought a used Gran Prix with 50k on it. Used it on the inside of the doors and laid a bead on the pinch weld. Cleaned it up for sale and no rust after five years and 160k.
@jeremy87154 жыл бұрын
Need to do it with the metal already rusted. That would show how well one of them works to slow / stop the rust from getting worst.
@RepairGeek4 жыл бұрын
If the product works on bare metal, it's going to work on rusty metal. My test was designed with accelerated results in mind. Also, by having bare metal it's easier to visualize spots that rust developed.
@mark20734 жыл бұрын
@@RepairGeek Apparently POR15 sticks better to rusty meta l than bare metal which is why it came off in sheets.
@robertm59694 жыл бұрын
If you're applying it to rusty metal, is it best to prepare the metal first before applying? I.e. hitting the spot with a wire brush to get off the rust first?
@madmatt20244 жыл бұрын
@@robertm5969 Yes. I've used a similar product (KBS Rust Seal) and you have to remove as much loose rust as possible. They also want you to de-grease and etch the surface too.
@robertb82804 жыл бұрын
@@RepairGeek Absolutely FALSE. As you said yourself things like rubberized undercoating will get worse, which is true for many products. Some like Por15, Eastwood, and Rust-Oleum rusty metal primer are made to work in conjunction with the rust or to specifically seal it.
@stevet53794 жыл бұрын
Best product that i've found is Rust Check. Apply once per year and you're good to go.
@roybatty26804 жыл бұрын
Makes you wonder why this common product was not tested along with plain oil.
@johnterpack39404 жыл бұрын
The overall design of the test was really good. All the pieces got the same treatment and were as close as possible to identical at the start. But you dropped the ball with the POR-15. You can't ignore the manufacturers directions and then blame the product when it fails. POR-15 is very clear about the prep necessary for proper adhesion. It needs preparation just like any other paint because it is a paint, that's what the "P" stands for, "Paint Over/On Rust". POR-15 is also not UV stable- being left out in the sun for five months may have contributed to its lackluster performance. Yes, it's a lot of extra work. But the idea behind a test like this is to see which coatings do the job, not which are easiest to apply. POR-15 might have blown everything else away if it had been applied properly, we'll never know.
@RepairGeek4 жыл бұрын
According the the technical data and instructions on POR15's website you can coat over sandblasted metal. www.por15.com/POR-15-Technical-Information_ep_62.html