My 2009 accord 3.5 VTEC that needs this bad and it only has 80k on it but I drive like a maniac lol, it is a fast car!!... I have a KNA air intake, resonator, and Y pipe delete with a performance muffler...Thank you so much bro for your clear instructions as it makes my life easier lol...Gonna tackle it soon as I recieve my gaskets..Cheers!

I’ve done hundreds of timing chains on ford 5.4, 4.6 and have never used a cam holding tool in my entire career. Even if the cam were to spring back there’s not enough pressure to damage anything at all.

your tumbnail is very missleading. theres no way unless your a car enthusiast or a car shop will want to spend 200 on the programming or clone tool. and anyone who has those dont need to watch this video..... would rather spend the 200+ have a professional with professional tools to do this the right way.

If the cosmoline did better on a mower deck, wouldn’t it make sense that it would do even better under a car. The undercarriage of a car doesn’t go through as much abrasion as the mower deck so the coating will stay on there

Trying to understand the gauges better. The valves closed prevent refrigerant from going "through" to the other side AND escaping via the yellow hose, correct? Similarly, they remain closed so that when you disconnect the yellow from the vacuum you don't then lose your vacuum from the blue-yellow. Where it gets weird for me is that the gauges can register pressures with valves open or closed. I guess if I saw the plumbing I'd understand it better. Great video.

Hi man great video. Followed the whole series. Im currently restoring my ep3. Im a bit stuck. Ive grinded it to bare metal. Ive then used jenolite rust converter but i can almost dig my nails in tonit.. shall i snd it before primining..

Hi whats your take on epoxy primer and raptor.on the underside of a car

So if I'm going to do vandalism I should use mastercoat

Could you redo the test with a 9mm to see how the paint reacts?

So what you're saying is use sunblock

Congratulations on the subscriber milestone and sharing such great content over the years! we are happy that we were a part of keeping you and your dads vehicles rust free.

Great video! I brought my Laptop out to the garage and followed step by step. Nice touch to show both the sequence of tightening the bolts but the torque spec as well. I still referred to Chilton and Haynes books. I went to 22 Ft. Lbs. Mainly because the car is older and I'm trying to seal a small leak coming from where bolt 8 is in your diagram. I have the PI version with aluminum water channel after my 1999 Mustang GT suffered the cracked thermostat housing issue. The intake is on back order. I can't wait for it to be in stock again. Whomever carries it sell a LOT of them!

For a quieter ride, better fuel economy and decreased stress, just drive slower.

I did Fluid Film one year and then switched to Surface Shield. It is thinner when applied and crawl and creeps deeper and it just feels really doing something. And, I live in Fairlawn, Ohio, and Blaster Surface Shield is made next door in Akron, Ohio, the Vatican of Goodyear and Firestone, that city has automotive DNA. Fluid Film was good I guess, like pig fat lard with a hint of basil and vanilla. Yet, Surface Shield is good lanolin and lasts longer, grabs better and is a light caramel color. And, Harbor Freight sells it for only $9.99. Four years so far and is still brand new. I do the aerosol and got an extension nozzle for aerosol cans with a multi directional tip that I can use inside doors and crevices. Only $8 in Amazon.

Another major tool that is quite obvious here is a shop lift

One thing not in that video is if the compressor cycles on and off every few seconds while idling or in very hot temps (90°F or above). The low pressure reading is not stable. It is fluctuating, what could be the problem? The two cooling fans also cycle on and off as well.

I just want to ask, I I know how to relearn the tire sensors with my car, can I just buy sensors that fit put them in and relearn them myself or do I absolutely need the relearn tool

FYI We recently installed a new AC kit. Had an undetectable leak. No dye anywhere. Held perfect vacuum over night. Held 125 psi of pressure over night. Hook it up to the 175 psi compressor and found a bad hose crimp. Dont overlook the simple things. KISS. Weve always used lacquer thinner for flushing. Cheap, dries out easily blowing air through. Never had a problem. Also its easy to add an inline filter at the expansion valve and condenser. They sell little cone shaped filters that slip into the connection fittings. Couple bucks each, slip right in.

Great video

Ordered and rec’d my pressure kit… thanks for sharing… did not want to have lines fail a year after assembly - doing an LS swap / Camaro suspension, etc…which will take me a couple years to complete

35:48 - so you just put the pinion and no grease apply to the bearings?

I bought a mini 2 years ago from a ford dealer. Thank you for this video because now i know what they did to it before they sold it. The pcv valve was replaced probably a few times but needed a valve cover. It caused really rich levels and carboned it up. They must have done the valve cleaner cuz now im dealing with the catalytic converter problems and other oil solenoid problems from junk

No grease

Cheaper to replace the muffler

Could you really have easily welded a thin, rusty, carbon filled muffler joint?

The cleaning bit works but man he got the purpose of GDI way, way wrong. 1. GDI does not result in lower cylinder head temperature prior to ignition. Think about it. The furl cools the same amount of air regardless whether it happens in the port or the cylinder. 2. GDI is not required for higher compression. If it was, bikes with 14: and above would use it. They don't. 3. GDI doesn't give "Control over atomisation". Atomisation is more important because there is less time in GDI, but that's a constraint not the purpose. GDI has one purpose, and that is to improve fuel economy by reducing pumping losses by allowing ultra-lean ratios under cruise conditions. That's it. It doesn't make more power - though a GDI engine, being cutting edge, might do regardless - its only to use less fuel. Many early GDI engines actually had both port and direct, and would only use direct under low throttle highway conditions, and switch to port under acceleration - which is why their milage suddenly halved if you put even a small trailer behind. I appreciate what you are do8ng but please don't spread misinformation. You are better than that.

car won't start, water jets out of hole in radiator when cranking..... road service guy says its a head gasket. What do you think? (Toyota 1MZ-FE) - great video too, thanks.

My dad always told me "salt air is vagina, the metal is the penis, rust is the disease you can't get rid of from the vagina." I am still a virgin at 52,and use only plastic,and stay indoors. Dad scared me that bad

I wish I had seen this before I wasted money and A LOT of time with Por15.

Thank you for doing this!

diy/normy here. Just got my '16 forte5 (na) gdi serviced at the dealership. the service basically ran the cleaner from at the fuel filter into the engine for about a 30-40 minute interval from what I could tell but I am not sure on the time. this is the 2nd time I have gotten the service. the first was at the maserati dealership for a different product line for gdi. both times I have noticed a pretty big difference (subjectively of course). I also did some highway driving after both. after the maserati service I did get some smokey blowout. after the kia, none. I did step into the garage during the end of the kia service. the exhaust smelled like plactic death mixed with acetone . lol. also a light amount of white grey smoke. that should have been around the 25-30 minute mark. never did the diy approach bc I wasn't comfortable taking the intake manifold off. spent 250 at kia for 'fuel system service' and 350 at maserati for same

Doesnt matter if you paint moving parts?

Gotta like this dude.

Thanks!

@repairgeek do you think this process would work well in an older truck bed?

No difference as long as the valves are seating properly..

Its a honda they make reliable cars not quiet cars

No product would work if there is to much build up on valves.

Excellent video but the vehicle is garbage, you just don’t had the transmission issue yet. On my third at 95k

Great video. I like that light you have under the hood. Where did you find that? Is it electric or rechargeable?

Muriatric Acid

Great video buddy. Keep up the superb job

Time wise what is hourly on this Timing belt replacement with water pump coolant and tensioner

Water pump didn't show a gasket installed ???

If u had to put a price on everything listed other than the brakes what would u say it costed you?

Wow! Good video! Thanks! This is a very dense topic. Also, thanks @paulbriggs3072 for the comments. I think I've finally deciphered the difference between all these products, and what each is supposed to do (perhaps different from what they are marketed to do). I want to address the frame on one of my project trucks that recently developed surface rust. Even more interesting, some areas in the paint that have developed little rust spots. Those may be tougher to address with any of these products. Thanks again!

Amazing video. Top notch.

Any updates? Looking at one of these

If you can clean the stuff off the surface with your finger then it won't hold much on the road!

Thank you buddy very great performance where I get that tools