I'm impressed. Way more detail-oriented than I ever was. I merely get under the F150 every fall and paint on bar-and-chain oil. Let it soak into the surface rust and everything. I'm sure this is a better fix than what I've done, but 28 Pennsylvania winters in my F150 and it's been "good enough." Just a heads-up that even halfassing it is far better than doing nothing.

Here in Canada, rust proofing products are rediculously expensive so I started making my own. Using a drill powered paint mixer, mix one 400 g tube of Valvoline grease with two quarts of chain saw bar and chain oil. Spray with a comprressed air undercoating sprayer.

You said it was acid . You were shocked it took off paint and clearcoat...Ummm..

Nice! Going to touch up my box truck with this process! The results look clean

I have been using a rust converter called Corroseal. It can be painted on, it's not poisonous and it leaves a beautiful black finish, but it still needs to be top coated. And it is water cleanup. So because I don't have a lift this is perfect for me.

Manual descaling. Then Corroseal. Goes on like milk or wood glue, turns black, takes 24 hours. ($100.00 per gallon) then Rust Oleum primer, then Rust Oleum High Gloss enamel. Same effect. I did use White Rust Oleum enamel around the inside of the frame to track any further rusting. Ranger frames have one side open. Yep. Corroseal. Works Great. Thank you for this.

Excellent job and great tutorial! Thanks!

Pull the plugs from the rockers and doors, spray fluid film inside and also remove taillight to treat inside wheel house of the bed.

The lesson here,don't let it get this far before you rust proof.Good job.

Well done - always nice to see a 1st gen Tacoma get new life. Also, using the Surface Shield in the gallon format is WAY better than the cans. I went the can route and it was a nightmare - they clog up after about 20 seconds of spraying and the nozzle needs to be taken apart and cleaned out. Always go with the gallon and a sprayer!

Nice job. Definitely remember to get inside the fenders and tailgate. There are small squares under the rocker panels that allow you to save the rockers. There's about 10 on each side.

Dude, you are the man... thank you for this video. Gotta do this on my 06 F150, has about the same amount of rust that your vehicle HAD. lol

Awesome job! You've done everything that is reasonably possible to do on an older vehicle to preserve the frame. Brush painting the frame everywhere that you can reach with a brush with Rust-o-leum will apply a thicker coat of paint and then follow up with the spray cans to reach anywhere that the brush couldn't and it might save a few bucks on paint. Been hearing great things about Surface Shield, but although we have a number of products by PB Blaster available in Canada, I haven't been able to find the Surface Shield product anywhere.

Nice work. Inspiring me to get to work!

excellent demonstration

Wow, what a process! Great job on staying meticulous. Don’t think you”ll ever see rust on that baby!

Having owned a beautiful but rusty 2001 Tacoma, this is the most satisfying video ever!

Great video. I've been looking into how I am going to remove rust and paint the underside of my truck, and I think when I do, I'll do it like this. Thanks man!

Great tip. Great, no B.S. presentation. Thanks for sharing & thanks for adding the links.

I used to get under my 97 Sierra and scrape and wire brush and repaint and it just kept rusting and flaking off. Finally started shooting Fluid Film underside that was the answer to keep the truck on the road. Sometimes I heat it on a hot plate and put in shavings of paraffin (an old candle works) and shot it while it's warm. That's been the best thing so far.

Great job! It’s well worth it to do it correctly.

your giving me some motivation! looks great good work

Wow! just wow!!! You have a lot of patience my friend. Very, VERY impressive man. I have a 2012 "dead-mint" Ram 1500 Sport. I just had it completely sprayed with "corrosion-free". After doing the entire undercarriage, they also sprayed inside the frame, rockers, door panels, inside tailgate etc ... From what I can gather, "krown" was rated #1 (forever) until just a few years ago. I hear they are now rated #2 with "corrosion-free" being the top dog, but now I'm wondering if I should've taken the time to do the same amazing job that you did to your truck BEFORE I got undercoated. Man that's impressive bud. Awesome job! What are the odds of you posting a "1 year later" vid? You have over 175,000 views so I'm sure that 1,000's would love to see it. I know I would!

Old timer years ago told me to mix Diesel with used motor Oil, shake it up and lay it on with a pump sprayer or compressor. He said it will drain into all the cracks and crevices that water does and protect it. He ran a Square Body dually with a Mason bed on it until he passed. 1986 GMC almost rust free for 20 years in Connecticut Winters. My go to for rust prevention, cheap and used oil is free

Lanolin based undercoating products like Fluid Film and Wool Wax can be sprayed directly on rust, and if reapplied every couple of years will stop the rust cold. No need to do the de-rusting treatment which may cause more problems than it solves.

Thats a hell of a job

Love your edit !

Nice work!

Amazing job!

I use corraseal with a pump sprayer...do it every fall before plow season...it works good depending on how thick and the temperature outside when I do it...alot of spots I don't have to do it again but I do anyways...it turns a dark black when it's done it's thing

"put down a tarp" then continues to do everything over pavers 😂😂😂 nice video man. I have an f150 and if I do a rust delete I'll be sure to follow this process

This is my kind of video

Got to Love your vehicle 😍

Nice job 👍🏻

Great job 👍🏼

I admire your tenacity. Everything you did won't prevent rust from forming, undercoating needs to be done with oil, specifically, Husqvarna bar and chain oil, if you heat it up you can spray it into every crack and crevice, it's the only thing that works in the rust belt.

any follow up video? I think you did good job and it will last whole season!

I just grinded and put phosphoric acid prior to undercoating on ONE cross member of my pickup's frame and it took me closer to three hours and I was covered with dust after that. I can't even comprehend how someone could do the entire frame at once. Thank god the previous owner had it undercoated before me so it's almost rust free from the front to the rear of the cabin and only the parts sandblasted by the rear tires are rusting

Great work. Without a Car Lift, it would be very difficult for me.

Nice job!

What does it look like now? Guessing that film you sprayed on captured a good amount of dirt n whatnot

Dang were legit impressed! That rust kutter seems intense 😂 but dang it looks so good

Thank you very much for your video. I am up in Alaska, and I intend to follow a very similar route. My process is looking like this: 1. Wash/degrease 2. Knock off the chunks of rust/grind 3. Wash and break clean 4. Rust kutter 5. Rinse 6. Rust kutter 7. Rinse 8. Rustoleum clean metal primer (I spoke with Rustoleum and they said if you are converting before hand and you will have mostly converted/bare metal then you should use this primer as it will still handle some rust if you missed any, and it will give the enamel better adhesion) 9. Rustoleum professional protective enamel 10. Herculiner roll-on bedliner (specifically excels at deflecting rock-chips in cold climates per project farm) 11. Following, In the frame rails and behind pinch welds/seams I intend to use rust kutter at step 4 and then follow that up with fluid film after step 11 (a product i wouldn't use anywhere else because it grosses me out) Thanks again for making this very thorough video.

Nice video. The gas tank on my car recently fell on the ground after filling it up at a gas station. Someone was calling me on my cell phone and I pulled into a space while in the gasoline station. While I was parked and attending to my phone I heard a noise. I thought someone had thrown something at my car or may be a tire hit my car from the highway. I saw nothing. So I got back in the car. I did not jump on the highway right away which was next to the gasoline station. After a while I started up the car and someone got behind my car while I had it in reverse. I did not in a million years think that I would be dragging my gas tank. It really freaked me out. I called me insurance and a tow truck came and put those pulling straps to hold it. They could not move it because it was full of gasoline. So they had to use a small flat jack to lift it up. The straps held it in place. I am thinking about putting a long metal flat bar attached to the chassis with Chrome screws to prevent the tank from falling again. The tank is sitting upright in a vertical position in front of the trunk. Death was following me, but God was on my side I guess. For those who have have not had this happened to them CHECK underneath that the gas tank is secure from those metal straps as well as the fuel lines and brake lines, especially if your car is old and has rust. Do not ignore the rust. We are used to just checking under the hood, but if you are living in the north you are at risk because of the rust. I hope I have saved lives with this information. Get undercoating and clean that rust before it spreads like a cancer. It can be very very dangerous and serious, especially if you have family riding in your car. This is serious stuff. Thank you for sharing your video with us.

A bumblebee that goes on the attachment that goes on the pressure washer hose want to work really good

Great tutorial! Was there anything you made sure to not cover in the surface shield or rust cutter? I saw brief glimps of what looked like butcher paper covering some things. I am a little weary of getting anything on my breaks

This is pretty much what i did to my old subaru. Wire brushed the under carriage for hours, sprayed it with over a quart of rust dissolver, pressure washed it when it had done its work, let it dry, then soak the entire under carriage with half a gallon of linseed oil using a spray gun (including inside the beams and structural members) It is an awesome feeling! Now to see how it looks in a few years. Linseed oil needs to be reapplied every year or two, but now that the worst part is done, its more a quick once over (unless some catastrophic areas reveal themselves)

Nice Video. I am doing something similar, but wish I would have used Rust Cutter. Instead I am using Naval Jelly, then 2 coats of Rustoleum Rust Reformer and then 1 cost of gloss black. And lastly I plan to use Fluid Film or Blaster, depends on the price per 5 gallons.

Awesome video!!! would you reccomend going straight to the blaster shield after the rust kutter or spraying the rust oleum after the rust kutter, looking to this real soon

It's a little more expensive but I use engine/ header high temp paint. No primer needed. Also, for rust I spray it with Thermacore or Evaporust.

Awesome

Excellent job. Probably could've gone straight to Surface Shield after cleaning the rust and power washing. Paint will flake eventually - regular sprays of surface shield or Fluid Film won't. Helluva job 👍

works just as gd with out the rust cutter.. The Rust Reformer does the same chemical reaction as the Rust Kutter.

Nice job, Looks great!

Had to scrap my Nissan hard odyssey and saw lots of Toyota trucks with the frame!

Man straight up created a Rust-Belt Kryptonite

I wonder if dry ice cleaning might have been easier and more effective? don't know just wondering

how well has it held up over the year

Salt corrosion is the gift that keeps on giving. Even after cleaning and treatment it can keep corroding.

What kind of air compressor setup is that? I’m looking to get an air gun setup for undercoating and need some advice.

Bless your energy and stamina...Can you come to philly and do my Silverado?...:)... I'd rather climb a ladder than crawl around under my truck...:)...It's not bad if you have a lift that you can walk under...I can't believe how many times you power washed it...

Is it bad to leave the rust cutter sitting inside the frame? Or should you rinse it out? I’ve heard different opinions on rinsing/wiping it off and leaving it on under the paint.

phosphoric acid (what the rust kutter is) will turn the iron oxide into iron phosphate so yea it can be directly painted, maybe good to just brush it a bit to get dusty bits off. Probably better to leave it on actually vs cleaning it with water though

Hey You did a great job. I know as you think about how and what you did what if anything you would change ? The descaling was good idea along with the rust killer converter and spray gun. Excellent video

Two questions: -How did you clean out the Rust Kutter from the spray gun/nozzle/reservoir before switching to the Surface Shield? -What was your compressor set-up with the needle scaler (SCFM, size of air tank, etc.)? I've heard needle scalers require large compressors/reservoirs.

Nice work! My car has rust only where the frame is welded, but overall is in good condition. Do I have to do every step that you did to prevent further rust buildup? Can i just wire brush the rust and spray Surface Shield?

love the step by step tutorial dude, was wondering how's it looking at the moment? i understand its been close to a year since the vid has been released just wanted to know if you took the truck out on the beach in between the year time or anywhere near salt water, if so how it's holding up?

Im pretty much considering do this exact regiment on an old toyota 4runner. it will needs some plates welded on to it too. but need to stop the rust. I settled on rust cutter and surface shield. Will need to grind first, guess I'll look close at rustoleom rust reformer now as well.

How's it holding up?

Can we get an update on how the proceds has held up ?

No. That white color is saying you need to neutralize the acid and rinse the white residue off. The white residue will cause adhesion issues.

amazing job, how long do you think this whole process took you from start to finish?

Great job rusty free very expensive welding cars subframe undercoating great job garages very expensive welding in Ireland

How has this held up? We need an update.

So it's ok to just spray Rust Shield over Rust reformer ?

Great job! will this Surface Shield stay "wet" and collect dirt and dust?

Wouldn't that rust cutter eat any rubber hoses, seals or rubber knuckles?

Can we get updates to this please? Nobody ever does a update which is the most important part applying it and using things everyone knows it’ll look great but what it look like in a year or two or three

What type of compressor are you using?

Im sorry about ur clearcoat. Great idea using 360° sprayer for rust preventative. Excellent job on SS. Please give us a video aftr winter. Sub'd & 👍'd . 🇺🇸

Heard someone used rustoelum farm and implement low gloss paint after using that rust reformer. Wondering if it is worth doing that extra coat of farm paint or not?

How did hold up?

Keeping busy buckaroo? Idle hands bro...

Hey did any get on the paint? From any overspray or air blowing across bottom ? Didn’t know if I need to put paper or anything on bottom of truck on sides ?.

What are your thoughts on just using surface shield on the bare frame and foregoing paint?

great job

Looks great. How is it holding up?

Great job. Is there a follow-up on this technique?

For long term maintenance would it just be a case of spot treating any rust and then topping up the undercoating layer every couple of years?

Will this damage other components in the suspension if you accidentally spray it on them?

"It's basically acid" then shows where it ate through clear and paint "I can't believe it did that"

I love watching videos of single guys with all the time in the world.

I would of used a pressure washer with the sandblasting feed system on it you could of used baking soda to blast it or a fine medium of some sort of worried about wirers electric items cover with aluminum foil. Much easier and the baking soda protects metal until you ready to paint.

Why not just use the Surface Shield and save most of the prep work and all the paint/primer (just remove the flakey stuff? That is what this video for Fluid Film says kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j5acfaemqL2qnHU.html and what I plan to do on my Tundra and my daughters FJ Cruiser. I'm going to use Fluid Film inside the fenders, rocker panels, and quarter panels (since it is cheaper and won't get washed off there) and Surface shield on the frame and underbody and repeat after 2-3 years for exposed parts based on inspection.

Can you use rust kutter and then just coat with CRC or fluid film instead of painting

so hows ya truck now

Can u put surface shield on near the brake areas?

Does that final coat you applied ever dry

If youre using decreaser, are there any parts of the car that it cannot touch? I do not have a garage, and Im not able to remove the wheels when doing this either.

How many hours work do you figure you have there? Nice job!