Yes this is an easily forgotten pulley. I myself have forgotten about it in the past until it starts making noise. I'm glad the video helped!

Thank you!! I'll try to keep them coming haha

Thank you!

Thanks! And yes it can! Take the part number, buy a new bearing, press it on, and off you go!

You're welcome

Same as mine. I had to use a 3/8 drive twist socket and got it off. Then I bought a new nut (identical) at the local hardware store

@@euonymus1980 that is very useful info. Thanks!

I almost stripped mine out a couple years ago when I had to take it off for the first time. Thankfully I saved it but they are in a tight spot and very hard to access.

👍

Yes but you’d hear the belt squeal at the same time. If you don’t hear any noise and it’s just shaking, check the rpms. If you notice that the engine idles down and struggles almost like it wants to stall, it’s not idling up and therefore cannot run smoothly. To fix that you want to make sure the AC compressor is not seizing up, and if it isn’t, then your idle-up valve is bad and it’s not idling up as it should.

Well you can follow my LED install video for the cluster bulbs to see how to remove the cluster, but that's about all I can help you with. I know there's a way to roll back the mileage to match your existing mileage but I don't know exactly how.

I don't. But... nice and tight? Haha

No, that is not at all related to any sort of belt driven accessory or belt drive component. That to me has to do with the IAC, could be a coolant temp sensor, air temp sensor, MAP sensor... something isn't reading right.

I can't do that for for a few reasons: 1. My AC work just fine so I can't duplicate any issues in order to show them 2. There are so manu possible issues that making a video on all of them would just confuse people that are trying to figure it out. And before trying to diagnose it you need to know how the system works un order to understand it 3. AC systems need to be charged precisely to spec not just with refrigerant but with the right amount of oil. Not enough oil and the compressor wears out. Too much oil and you can lock up the compressor or damage other components. Same with refrigerant. So basically what I'm trying to say is you need a professional to look at it if you want it fixed right.

@@AutoFixYT Ok got it, I'm still learning on my '95 Corolla, just thought it was one of those simple things that anyone can do at home. Thanks anyways man I appreciate these Corolla videos!

@@FastLegsJerry You can just pick up a can and recharge the system but you have no idea how much is actually going in there and there can be long term damage caused by that.

Thanks! I do not... Sorry!

It should. Maybe you didn't position it correctly on all the pulleys, or maybe it's the wrong belt. Or maybe you pushed the tensionser too far down and it has nothing to grab on to before you even start tensioning it.

Yes I have had to remove it when I did my timing belt. You can use a powerful impact (electric or pneumatic) or you can put a breaker bar on it and do the "starter bump" trick. Look it up if you don't know it. I've done both methods (and others lol)

@@AutoFixYT LOL, the car currently has no subframe underneath (changing the rear mount and all fuel lines) engine is only supported by the two side mounts and perhaps only one! when we have to slip the belt off under that passenger side mount IDK yet. My nephew wants to try a large visegrip on the rotted crankpulley and wedge it somewhere under the unibody to keep 'er from moving an inch and use the 2ft breaker bar

A 2ft breaker bar won't do anything. You might as well use a ratchet lol you need a 4-5 ft breaker bar if you're gonna go it by hand. Also, wait until you put the sub frame back. The engine needs to be supported as much as possible otherwise it's just going to swing instead of break that bolt free

@@AutoFixYT you were spot on about that engine swinging lol... i picked up a cheapo air impact tool from harbor freight and the crank bolt came off with ease... lots of oil behind those timing covers at the bottom where i thought it was weeping.... btw for some reason KZfaq set me up 2 separate accounts, one for my desktop PC and a separate one for my portable tablet under JAY 97 (something or other) i am not that tech-savvy yet to figure out why it did that, (in case you were curious about double inquires to the same Corolla!)

@@efil4kizum Awesome, I'm glad it worked out! And lol no worries

My two go-to websites are 1aauto.com and rockauto.com. Between these two you will definitely find what you need. Sometimes I search amazon too, but not often.

@@AutoFixYT Amazing, I didn't know about 1aauto, thanks for the recommendation, I'm gonna take a look at it!

@@ioritenshi Yeah they have lots of stuff, definitely take a look!

I have been buying 'most' of my new toyota parts + nuts and bolts from Lewis Toyota in Topeka Kansas... 31 per cent off MSRP + free shipping if over 75$ order ... did not get the OEM crankpulley because its 385$ ... went with Dorman brand on that

Nice. Watch the harmonic balancer when the car is idling. Make sure it doesn't wobble. Sometimes the cheap aftermarket ones aren't good. Hopefully you got a good one

Honestly I don't quite remember haha, I might have. I filmed this video a few months ago lol

They're black housing headlights (you can find those at 1aauto.com) and I took them apart to reteofit projectors into the low beams. I painted the reflector with black plastidip, and I also replaced the orange reflector side markers with clear reflector side markers. And then spent a VEEEERY long time adjusting the beam because it's a pain and they're still not perfect but whatever lol

@@AutoFixYT I'd say it was well worth it because they look really really good! 🔥 Was it difficult to retro fit them?

@@adrianiniguez269 Yes I agree, totally worth it! And no not really, just tedious.

Then you either build something to make it work, or you go to the junkyard and get a new bracket. I doubt you can find that part online anywhere.

Braun, you can find it at Harbor Freight