Not that bad, I've done way worse lol

Yeah sounds like a bad starter or starter solenoid if it's clicking but doing nothing.

@@AutoFixYT Strange thing is it starts when the air temperature is cooler and problems start (click) when it's around 70° or warmer. That is stumping me. Something's expanding and preventing a connection. I'm going to replace the whole part instead of messing around (180k miles and still runs like a charm!)

Thank you! I kind of had to have the patience, i had no other choice haha but I also wanted to show people how it's done.

What's that going to do?

@@AutoFixYT dude think

@@MontyGumby Please enlighten me and share your thoughts on this.

@@AutoFixYT how about a hint: pressure

@MontyGumby The crankcase is not under vacuum nor pressure. There are breathers. Next time you change oil, try draining it without removing the filler cap, you'll see that there is no difference in oil flow. What you're referring to is only applicable to cooling systems, hydraulic power steering, and in some cases braking systems, but even those will drain with the master cylinder cap on. Engines, transmissions, differentials, and even transfer cases all have breathers and are never meant to operate under vacuum or pressure.

Not if they're still good. You only need to replace them if they're broken or swollen.

Nice! Make sure the fluid isn't back like used engine oil and smells burnt like it's been overheated almost. If it does, don't change it or you will probably start losing gears. That usually means the transmission is gonna need a rebuild at this point.

Yeah rust is a huge car killer, you can't have a nice daily driver AND have it be rust free unless you live down south.

Glad it helped!

Don't worry about the fact that you spun the cams and crank individually. It doesn't matter as long as you put them back at TDC when the belt goes on. Also, spinning them by hand will not do any damage to the valves even if they hit. You can't spin it fast enough and hard enough to bend a valve, at leats not on that engine. On some yes, not on that one. So first thing i would recommend doing is to check all the vacuum hoses and electrical connectors. If you are sure those are not a problem, you have to be 100% sure that the mechanical timing is set right (as in the cam and crank sprockets on the timing belt) but it seems as though you checked it countless times already (but that doesn't mean you didn't make a mistake several times, trsut me, I've been there before). Another thing you can do is put a scan tool on the car and watch live data. Watch MAF data, upstream O2 sensor data, cam position and crank position data, misfire data, timing advance (sometimes called spark advance). There are so many things you can watch live to see what is happening. Hopefully you're able to do that. With OBD2 cars, scan tools and live data is a must for diagnosing certain engine issues. The fact that it shakes a lot, to me that means it has a misfire or its so out of time that it's causing a misfire. High idle is usually caused by a vacuum leak or excess air entering the cylinder. That can be caused by the timing being off too. There fact that it's overheating however, makes me worry about the head gaskets. Overheat for? How bad did it overheat? And is it actually overheating or is it the coolant temp sensor that is bad and reading high? What is the computer getting for information on engine coolant temperature? If the sensor is not reading right and the computer is getting false readings, it will cause it to not start and run like it should. When coolant temperature is low, the computer will dump fuel in to make it warm up faster. When it's hot it will enter closed loop and will start running off of the O2 sensors and MAF sensors mainly, as in its self adjusting. When it's overheating it will pull back fuel and timing. I hope this helps!

Well... yes, in theory. When you work on rusty old cars with original links that have been on there for 20 years and 200k miles, that theory immediately goes out the window and you just find the easiest and quickest way to remove them lol

@@AutoFixYT I have never had a problem in 48 years of nuts n bolts some of the things I see done to cars is sad look after customers.

@neilasd3043 i get that it might look hack but I even said in the video, i was planning on replacing them anyway. So why waste time. Regardless, what part of the country do you work on cars in?

One is the PCV hose, the other is just a vacuum hose. Replace them if you want, I actually just deleted mine completely. The PCV is routed to a catch can and vented to atmosphere, and the other smaller hose is capped off on both ends.

@@AutoFixYT Thank you sm!!!

Lol yeah or... planned obsolescence

No, those are not for the backlight

Your car?

Yeah that’s my mom’s car

@ARSchannel1517 No, it's MY mom's car lol

No?

Look

They're TRQ headlights, 1 piece assemblies with projector low beam, black housing, and an LED running light. I linked them in the description, thanks for making me think of doing that haha

You're welcome!

Awesome, glad it helped!

👍🏻

No, counterclockwise.

Cut and splice what, I had no parts. It was a temporary fix until I got parts lol. To fix it right it needed new pigtails, those connectors are always broken from all that heat. Regardless, doing what I did was better than leaving it as it was for the time being.

You're welcome, glad it helped!

Thanks haha

Maybe they're not lined up right and can't click. Double check everything, including the metal connection inside the spark plug wire boots. They came out, they have to go back on.

You can use multiple things but yeah they're pressed on very tight. You can use a press, an air chisel, manual bushing press, ball joint press, etc.

@@AutoFixYT I see. So, it's not a simple repair. I really appreciate you replying. Thanks.

@@fastskipper777 Not really, unfortunately.

Wow, that's crazy but I'm not surprised. I was afraid something like that would happen to mine if I didn't fix it quickly. But good call on the manual starter switch hahaha

Sure...?

@@AutoFixYT yes. In your place I was swear a lot.

Hope it all goes well!

👍🏻

No, that is not at all related to any sort of belt driven accessory or belt drive component. That to me has to do with the IAC, could be a coolant temp sensor, air temp sensor, MAP sensor... something isn't reading right.

Wow that's amazing! Congrats! I do actually remember you from commenting on that video years ago. As soon as i saw your username I knew haha Since that video I have also become a tech and I have learned so much more. I'm glad that video was able to kick start your automotive career, as long as you have an interest and are passionate, and are confident in what you're doing (or at least trying lol) you can get pretty far! Keep at it, learning and advancing never stops!

No, not at all. Use only Dexron 3 or higher ATF. If you don't get straight Dexron, you can use Valvoline Max Life which, as you will see on the bottle, is compatible with Dex3 or higher.

I'm not even sure if this is a question or a statement, but what you said is too vague for me to give you an answer.

Yeah, that is true. Not all belts do, but some do.

With an automatic transmission, if the fluid is extremely old, smells burnt, or has collected a lot of debris from worn out clutch material, you will be better off leaving it alone until the transmission fails, then rebuild. Could last for quite some time. If none of those things apply, then change it and hope for the best. You can always add some Lucas transmission fluid additive. It has helped every time I used it.

No. Replacing any control arm should not affect ride height. That is only affected by the springs.

@@AutoFixYT well this passed weekend I replaced them TRQ from A1 auto and it left it about a inch to two inches higher. Somebody told me they need to settle in before they go back to regular height. Do you recommend something else that I should check or do I would appreciate the feedback thank you

@Guanabana6911 if you removed your strut, make sure that's seated well where it bolts on. There's no way a control arm can make a car sit that much higher.

@@AutoFixYT I did not remove the strut, did not have to.

Good luck! These are fairly easy to work on. You just have to have patience and make sure it all gets done right.

@@AutoFixYT Will do! Those timing marks can get tricky. I was off one teeth on the Odyssey at the crankshaft. With a little patience, it all came together 👍

@elgatogordo9523 yeah always spin it by hand several full revolutions. This is an interference engine so if you run it with the timing belt off even one tooth it can cause damage

I didn't touch brake lines or nothing

Did you adjust the shoes properly? Improperly adjusted shoes will make it so you have no brakes.

Glad the video was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

You're welcome! This was the idea in making this video, to help others solve this problem easier.

Awesome!

You got this! I'm glad the video helped out!

Technically 24 hours. Realistically, 30 min.

@@AutoFixYT thank you. I thought I was leaking oil from front. White smoke from tail pipe when sitting at lights for a while. I know it’s completely irrelevant 😂 but I might have a bad head gasket. Also I do not have cats, straight pipe to the muffler. I do have to replace Coolant but the consumptions seems normal since it’s slightly leaking through where you switch from cool to heat (can’t remember that parts name rn) but I want to buy sealant just to be sure. Im in market for an engine. Mine is 4AFE. Just examined this issue today. It also sometimes hesitates to accelerate.

You don't have to pull the manifold, it's just more difficult.