Thank you for this!!

wow so nice to jump around

Thank you! Glad the video was helpful!

Thank you very much, I'm happy that the video helped out!

Thank you!

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Thank you! I'm glad they're coming I handy!

@@AutoFixYT absolutely 😁

That's awesome! I'm glad the video helped!

Already subscribed 👍

Thanks! Well they're not as rare as you might think, and I enjoy making the videos. So it's a win-win!

Thank you!

Thank you! I'm happy the video helped!

Thank you! Glad the video was helpful!

Thank you! Glad I could help!

Awesome!! I'm glad the video helped!

Awesome! I'm glad this helped!

Thank you for the awesome feedback, and glad I was able to help!

Thank you!

Thank you! I actually already replaced the timing belt last summer, but because it was my first time ever doing a timing belt I decided not to film it. Maybe in the future though!

Thank you!

Haha I think I know who you're talking about, but thank you! I will make more videos on this car for sure!

Awesome!

I'm glat this video came in handy!

Awesome, I'm glad the video helped!

Thank you!

Glad it helped!

I'm glad the video helped! I'll try to make some more Corolla videos soon. I have a few others planned right now but this year I am determined to bring back the Corolla to the channel. It's been absent for a long time lol

Thank you!

Thanks! Glad I was able to help!

Nice! I'm glad the video was helpful!

Glad I was able to help! And congratulations on your first belt change!

Thank you! I'm glad the video helped!

Thanks!

Thank you!

My Corolla ac idler pulley was so rusted my regular 14 mm offset wrench started roasting it! Had to put to work the 60$ snap-on 14mm line flarenut wrench and it came off well

Haha yeah sounds like a tough situation for sure, but at least you were able to get it done!

Thank you!

@@AutoFixYT No man, thank you...

Thank you! I'm glad the video was helpful!

Thanks!

Yeah they make the car look a lot better, plus they performed great at night!

Thanks!

Can you replace your pwr steering belt without taking off the water pump belt??

@@richardswain537 I just looked. I don't think the water pump belt will be an issue. I do think the alternator belt is a problem. Power steering belt is closer to engine. I don't see a way to get power steering belt around alternator belt. Good luck 👍

@@baron7024 thanks

The water pump on these is driven by the alternator belt. So you will need to take that off first in order to remove the PS belt. You don't need to remove it all the way but just take it off the water pump.

Even easier if cv axle knuckle and engine cradle is all removed!!!

Awesome, glad it helped!

Thank you! I'm glad the video was helpful!

Thanks Andy!

Thanks! Happy I was able to help!

Haha that's scary that that happened but now you know how to fix it and also you know what to periodically replace! Belts are often forgotten and this is the result of that.

Thank you! And good luck to you!

Thanks!

Thanks! And yes they are awesome cars indeed!

Thanks!

Thanks!!

Thank you!

I'm happy the video helped! And hey, you watching the video is enough of a donation for me, so thank you!

@link2link lol. You mean , your man's corolla! 👦 & 👦

@@goldentrucker7921 waiting for the joke 🤔

Looks like someone is out of the dog house... You beast you!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks! I'm glad it was hepful!

Any advice on a 97 corolla dx. Terrible crunching noise from the rear end. I assume struts.

Could be struts, yes. But... it could also be sway bar links or even the sway bar bushings but those don't make a crunching noise, more like a knocking noise over bumps. But yeah probably struts.

Thanks!

Thank you

@@AutoFixYT No problem, is there any chance of you doing a video on changing the timing belt and waterpump on this car (4AFE/7AFE)? I'm asking because it will be good to do them both at once since to do the water pump the timing belt needs to come-off.

@@kn520 I actually have already changed my timing belt and water pump a few years ago so mine is still good for a while, but when the time comes to change them again I will definitely make a video. It's actually not very difficult, I'd say the hardest part is getting the water pump hose off of the water pump, which is on the back of the block. And there is almost no room for your hands back there. I ended up cutting my hose. Otherwise it's very simple. And being non interference, if you mess up nothing bad happens. It just won't start or run very well.

@@AutoFixYT Thanks a lot for the response. I'll keep a look out for the video. There is a large scope and audience for videos on Toyota Corolla's the 4AFE and 7AFE because of the large fan base of these car models (being so common and popular), with surprisingly, a very few videos about them online so I can tell you for a fact there's millions of people out there looking for such resources online and it will be great for your channel. So keep up the good work and videos! Thanks again!

@@kn520 Agreed! I have several videos lined up for the Corolla but haven't had time to get to them. Parts have been waiting for a few months now 😬

Thank you!

Thanks!

Ok I'll keep that in mind, thanks!

Thanks! Glad I was able to help!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Thank you! And yes it's the same block as the 4A-FE. The 7A-FE is just a stroked out version of the 1.6L with different cam shafts.

@@AutoFixYT the 1.8 version. I habe the exact same car and colour in 4 door sedan and it still runs great. The only problem is the roof welds (there are many) are all starting to rust through

@@therealspixycat oh no that's pretty bad 😬

@@AutoFixYT all the spot welds start rusting on the roof. Seen the same problem in the engine bay area. Car was produced in Canada I believe for the North America's

@@therealspixycat Yeah that's not good

I'm glad the video helped!

Haha thank you!

Thank you!

I don't but this is a highly requested video so I might be doing it in the near future!

Thank you

Thanks!

👍🏻

I won't do a timing belt on the Corolla anytime soon because I just did my timing belt and water pump last summer (2018) so it'll be good for a while. It was my first ever timing belt job so I didn't want to film but it wasn't hard so next time I'll film it

@@AutoFixYT got it I, can't wait untill next time

Agreed, for just the alternator belt you can do it easily from up top. And yes, I don't think many people nowadays have just standard tools, but if you do, a metric set is a must for any vehicle that is domestic and made past the 80s or so, since they all use metric now. Otherwise it's either not going to work or it will round off the fasteners.

@@AutoFixYT everything else worked except for that very front bolt, so you’re smooth sailing until you get to the front one

Good to know!

It's actually easier than you might think. The engine is a non interference engine so don't worry about destroying it. It can be a little tight in there but totally doable. Just make sure you know the torque specs of the essential parts and know where the timing marks need to be lined up.

@@AutoFixYT thanks I'll given it a try, one day.

I'd make a video on it but I already did the belt two years ago haha so I won't be making a video on it until it needs to be done again lol

@@AutoFixYT I seen that video it was great... How do you adjust the timing on these Corolla 93'? Maybe you can teach us how as well.

@@ZEDNANREHIGH I have other videos lined up right now but when I make a timing belt video I'll go over that as well

Thank you! The purpose of an oil catch can is to collect all the oil that comes out of your crankcase through the PCV system, before it goes back to the intake. If you have a lot of low by from worn piston rings like I do, then a lot of junk (oil and combustion fumes) will be floating around in the crankcase, which will escape via the PVV valve. Usually that's routed straight back into the intake. What happens then though is all those fumes stick to the inside of the intake and clog it all up, or make it very restrictive. I had to take mine apart and clean it thoroughly a couple years ago. The oil catch can separates those fumes and collects them so you can dispose of them before it goes into the intake. Long explanation sorry lol but hopefully I covered it all

@@AutoFixYT Definitely, thanks! How many miles are on yours? My '94 is at 150K and doesn't seem to have the oil blow-by issue yet.

Mine has 336k. The severity of the oil issue depends on maintenance. Before I had the car, it wasn't always serviced every 3k miles with fresh oil so I'm sure that affected it

I'm glad the video helped!

@@AutoFixYT sure did driving like a top' Have a great Christmas..

Awesome! Thank you, you as well!

Yup, anything with a 7A or 4A block should be the same if not very similar.

Thank you!

Yes it is ok to drive like that, you just won't have AC. Make sure you check for any leftovers of the belt though. You don't want to have small pieces that got shredded and stuck behind the pulleys. That will cause other major damage. If you replace one belt, replace all three.

Thank you! And oh no! Ok so in this case I advise you to take the valve cover off and inspect the cams, and make sure no oil passages are blocked by the grommet particles. Clean out everything you think is a piece of the grommet. You don't want any particles in there. That's bad. The pieces will not get burned up because the combustion chamber has no connection to the area where the cams are located. You need to clean those pieces out yourself otherwise they might damage the cams or clog up oil passages which is not good. Valve cover only has 4 10mm nuts on top. Remove them, remove the spark plug wires, then gently pry the grommets under those nuts and then remove those too. Then gently pry the valve cover up and it should unseal itself. This can take some time but be gentle. Also make sure you have a new valve cover gasket on hand because you may or may not need to replace the existing one. I would though. Then clean out any particles you might see, then reverse the process to reinstall everything in order. Best of luck!

Oh and also perform at least one oil and filter change after you're done cleaning stuff out. You want to run lots of clean oil through the engine to ensure nothing is left in there that can cause damage

That will most likely happen due to a worn pump that can't push fluid around anymore. It could happen if you have the belt overtightened for a long time if it ruined the bearing but you'd get other symptoms with that such as a wobbly pulley, noisy pulley, and maybe even damaged belt. If all it does is stop spinning and makes the belt slip, it's most likely a bad pump that you need to replace. Before you replace the pump though, check the fluid. If it's not clean, flush it. Old fluid can do that too if it's so old that it doesn't hold pressure anymore.

Yes you can

@@AutoFixYT okay 👍🏻 thank you excellent

👍🏻

I bought them on Craigslist from a guy that had them on a 1st gen Miata. They're Motegi MR7, they've been out of production for numerous years now so you can't buy them new but plenty of people still sell them used. Mine are 16x7 and I run 205/50R16 summer tires for plenty of grip. They fit well, but they do rub in the back if you don't roll your fender. I just smashed them with the hammer for faster progress.

@@AutoFixYT Your video was awesome by the way. One of the only ones on KZfaq showing how to remove and replace those belts. Much appreciated.

Thank you!

You need the compressor, all brackets, ac tensioner pulley, new harmonic balancer that has AC ribs, belt, AC lines, AC condenser, accumulator, evaporator core (goes next to your heater core) and potentially an AC evap core box (idk if the non AC cars had space for an evaporator core), and then you need the wiring that triggers the AC, the button that goes on your dash, and an idle-up valve that goes in the engine bay to idle up the engine when the AC is on. I think that's about it, but I might be forgetting something. Personally, I don't think it's worth it at all. But... if you really want it, you're better off buying a parts car that has it and taking all those parts off if it.

@@AutoFixYT thank you for your fast and detailed response. Adding a/c is more complicated than i was aware of and i guess it would be a bit too much for me to handle. The e11 it my first car so im very eager to learn about it and improve it. i guess i should focus on fixing the oil leak (which i hope is located at the valve gasket) and the fuel smell on could start. Again thank you very much, both the video and ur response were very helpful.

It should say it in your owner's manual how much fluid it takes. I don't know how much a 94 automatic takes. There are also multiple options. There is a 3 speed, a 4 speed with no overdrive, and a 4 speed with overdrive. So it depends what you have. Do not go over the full mark. Level should be read with the engine running, transmission warmed up, in park or neutral, and the car on a flat leveled surface.

Thank you!

Yeah you can use pink but you can also use red which is what these cars were designed for, and you can also use yellow universal coolant.

@@AutoFixYT the zerex should do it right,Do you have a flush of coolant video?

@@JalenRose02 I don't have a video on it unfortunately. But ChrisFix has a good one that you can follow and just apply to this situation!

Nice! They're awesome cars! About the nut... you need to apply a lot of heat to it, you might need a new pulley or at least a new bearing for it after you're done. Find yourself either a 6-point wrench or a socket that's shallow enough to fit, and use a pry bar to force it on (you'll need to go one size down so if it's a 14 mm then use a 13 mm). Whatever you do don't use a 12-point anything. Heat up the nut and break it free. Then replace it with a new one. Good luck! Keep me updated!

@@AutoFixYT I'll try it this afternoon, hopefully my pencil tip bronze propane torch is hot enough.

Any luck?

I have upgraded to a light bar, so I don't have those anymore