I have watched many videos about tractor restoration and lost interest. You have got me hook, line and sinker into this restoration. I subscribed & clicked notification to your channel and cannot wait for part 3. I maintain a 1952 Ferguson TO30 which is a work horse and have a late 1950 and 1951 Ford 8N. The late 1950's engine is stuck so who knows what it will need but the 1951 only needs the distributor installed back in time. You are inspiring me to dig into my 8N tractors. PLEASE do not quit on your Ford 8N tractor!

just found your channel the morning I just love these old tractor rebuilds thanks for sharing good luck

At this point you are in the motor. Replace the oil pump, rod and main bearings, polish the crank. Ensure you mic all the bearing surfaces to get a correct fit. Yes, a pain, but it is what it is. Obviously pull the head and rework it as well. You are here, time to make it right to give you another few decades of service. Good video. Looking forward to seeing it back to work.

I usually don’t comment on many videos, but I couldn’t help myself. Let me start by saying great video, and it’s your tractor. You do what you think is best. If you wanted to do all this, go for it!! I’m just glad to see folks working on something. It’s a tractor not the space ship. I would have slapped those bearings back in, replaced the pump and made sure the oil pressure line wasn’t clogged. If it still knocked then I would have done all that.

We always pull line off line prime system up some of lose prime screen very important that helps pick tube on oil pump from vibrating that’s what pickup tube get loose on oil pump I work at Ford tractor dealership for about 18 years

Hey Darrell. Just found your channel this morning, and I liked your content. I'm an old guy @ 69, but remember some great days growing up on a farm and my Dad was a tinkerer for sure 👍🇺🇸 Thanks for the videos 👍

I don’t think you knew it at the time but all you had to do with the front end and radiator was disconnect the steering arms, radius arms, radiator hoses, loosen the six center axle bolts, jack up and support the tractor just enough to take the weight off the front end, tie the spindle steering arms to the axle beam to keep them rolling straight and then remove the six bolts and roll away the entire front end with the radiator. Wiring or clamping the steering spindle arms saves a lot of aggravation when working alone. I don’t know if you had the oil pump rebushed but if you do, find a machinist that has the 8n oil pump bushing jig to rebuild it you will be well pleased. I noticed no wire on the main bearing caps? The studs stripped out on mine when I took the oil pump out and I had to have a machine shop make two new precision $tuds as replacements are NLA.

Thanks for posting n update about the vintage tractor, cant wait to see it put into work hehe.

I Have Always wanted a Old Ford 8N or 9N like Watching your KZfaq Channel, Keep Up The Great Work My Friend 👍

Glad you got it running! Looking forward to part 3!

you said "i'll need to do a full overhaul... unfortunately." hmmm... unfortunate for you, maybe, but very fortunate for us to be able to watch you do all the things we want to do and learn how! bigtime thanks for this xlnt video series!

Thanks for posting great content!

Good on you for saving an old tractor from the scrap heap. I'm working on a 1948 Ferguson TE20 just for the heck of it. Good retirement project that keeps me out of trouble. And yes, it could easily become a money pit, but you cannot take your cash to the grave. Its the greatest music when these old girls start and run. Like your videos, good fun playing catchup watching the series. TTFN/CDC

Hi from Australia. Just discovered your channel. I grew up on a farm and recall my Dad, God rest his soul, having all kinds of old tractors and dozers. He did his own repairs and I use to love watching him pull down these old things and I learnt a lot from that that helped me in my adulthood. I have watched a lot of restoration video's on YT and this would have to be one of the best I have come across. I have subscribed and hit notification bell for all content. I will be watching all these parts to see the out come. Any plans for repaint on this?. Keep up the good work. Going to watch your other videos after this one. Cheers.👍

Pull the oil pump relief plunger and spring. Use a oil can to fill it with heavy gear lube. The lube will stick to the gear and start the suction. The service manual will give you the pictures.

There is a oil pressure valve on the front of motor right below the fan pulley. If it is not working you will not get oil to your bearings. I have 1952 8n that i redone. I also have the book that shows how to rebuild the complete tractor.

Excellent video :) rebuilt engine bottom to top fully then carb also you ve super pleased when fully done !

Awesome video really enjoyed it

That looks like so much fun. Get yourself some plastigauge and check tolerance on mains and rod bearings, plastigauge is your friend in a situation like this and it's very easy to use. Look on the back of the old bearings to see if there oversized, most likely they are. I wish you could have done another compression test after the engine ran to see if the rings might have loosened a bit. This all brings back so many old time memories. Thanks for sharing this. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞

When you Gap Rings ,you should push the ring down with the piston to keep the ring Square in the bore

Excellent videos really enjoy watching your content. Cheers from Eastern Ontario 🇨🇦 .

Great video!!!!! Make friends with plasta gage. All the old timers know what it is. And it's cheap. Learn static timing for old motors with points its easy. I like your use of the American fit all. !!!🙂. The old bore Guages are as good as any if used right. And cheap. If you are working a job I don't see how you have time to do all this. The videos are great to watch and your expertise is good and getting better!!!!

Great job Darrell. Pity about the oil pressure. I know nothing about 8Ns, but some engines are prone to oil pump priming issues if they sit a long time. Had it with a rover v8 a few years so and had to use a special tool to prime it. You're on the right track with your plans though, plus a new pump. Serious jump in subscribers in a very short time, you're on your way!! 👍🙂

I know I'm a little late on this but on the loss of oil pressure a lot of those old tractors if you disturb the oil filter basket you better make sure that you prime it again or you won't get any oil pressure.

When you go to start it again, bleed the oil pressure gauge line to see / check that oil is getting to the gauge. make sure there is no blockage in the line itself.

Wow! These 8N tractor videos really took of! Congratulations! And 1k +subscribers! Great work.

Home Pros I am 2yrs, late finding your channel but my Dad always said any bearing play in an oil pump it was bad

To bad you have to rebuild the motor but it should give you lots of good service after. Great job.

Nice shirts!

the 8n and the 9n are a little like my 51 ferguson but the oil pan was a lot easier to get off still neat old tractor

Since your this deep, I'd replace the pump. I have a 48 8n that's doing the same exact thing and I too replaced the pressure gauge. So. Next summer I get to play the same game here

Collosal drain plug!

New oil gauge may be air locked. Crack it, let air out. See if pumping

As long as the pans off I would replace the oil pump, save some time and effort later on.

If in doubt, replace it.

1952 has thick sleeved

👍😊

You are there get a water pump and belt.

You gotta prime the plunger on front of block

We used oil can to prime oil pump then it have oil presure

Number 4 mains are always the worst due to being furthest away from oil pump and the pumps are just poor gear pump

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What do you guys think? Could the oil pump be bad? Also should I just replace the rod bearings and pump and send it, or should I take my time and rebuild the entire engine? What would you do in my situation?

It's got to be cranked to get oil pressure!!

Look at Dan Gingell and Rachel Gingell Vidio's . They have all kinds of Vidios on how to restore your tractor

On another video someone had a loose distributor shaft and had to replace a distributor.

It seems that at the end of this process, the tractor will look like it just came out of the factory.

There's is a spot on the front of the engine where you add oil to prime the system unfortunately you went water to far

If I was going in it, it would get mains and rod bearings. Did you blow out the line feeding the oil pressure meter?

has the crankshaft oil way to each piston bearing clogged at all.

Bread the line to the gage

It is common for these fords to lose prime to th oil pump, but you ill hve rebuilding it!

I think you have your measurements messed up on your feeler gauge. .027" is what that looks like. .027 mm is actually .001" which is way way too tight. Anyways You really need to check the bore diameter and also the piston before deciding on just rings. Seeing how much piston ring gap there was I doubt new rings are going to take that up. These old tractors never did lubricate the cylinder walls all that well. For the difference in cost you're likely just as far ahead to get a rebuild kit with pistons and sleeves. Piston ring gap should be roughly .015", you're almost double the spec.

Does that engine have cylinder sleeves?

oil pumps are cheap. i change mine everytime i rebuild a motor.

Take your battery cables off

Um did you forget the rear main rope seal??

Carbon good if used oil carbon wash way carbon

charge the battery and put a tuneup on the engine along with a pertronics ign instead of points.

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I would have replaced the plugs and fed it two cycle gas until I had it running correctly, as well as the MMO in each cylinder.

12 volt conversion is totally unnecessary. Don't listen to those hacks

Monetize me Al Gore rhythm!!

I just found your channel realize that this is a video that's a week old hope you didn't turn into that tractor yet because before you do any of that mess you might want to convert it to 12 volt that'll make it spin faster it'll start you don't have a compression problem you got one cylinder that's down I believe it's cylinder too is down on compression that'll come back up again once you run it you need is 12 volt conversion

What a pain you have to nearly split the Tractor just to remove the oil pan.

MM I am sure that those old tractors do not go by that metric crap, tell us in Ths.

You need to just get a new key to get it running that’s what it is and maybe put water in the gas tank

Assuming it runs good, and sounds healthy?? at that i would not take it apart, IF it sounds healthy leave as is change engine oil.

that's a big oil plug

Do a full rotisserie rebuild and refurb or why bother at all.

You can fix anything I need you to build me a speaker box

You are going to screw around with it until you turn it into a money pit.

shave the head before you put it back on.

D the you even own any wrenches??? All I've seen you use is a pair of channel lock plires!!! Get a with the program!

This kid is not a mechanic, he has the fingernails of an office girl!