Hi Keith. My best guess for the legs being cut off square. Is that in the era of this forge, it would’ve been installed in shops with dirt floors. So the legs would promote themselves to bury in the dirt, thus stabilizing the forge. Flat floor cut legs most likely would’ve been used on brick or concrete. This flat cut would’ve given a larger surface area contact with the floor

Making stuff is part of what is great about this channel

27:15 My first blacksmithing in my pre-teens [late 1950s] was heating the sharp end of big common nails white-hot on mom's gas kitchen stovetop then running outside to hammer a blade. I used a big pair of pliers as tongs, and my anvil was the side of an 8 lb sledgehammer nailed to the flat top of an apple tree stump. I grew up in western Canada on my parents' mixed-fruit Okanagan orchard - we made do with materials easily at hand. A child's imagination can be both a blessing & a curse... In high school I used that same kitchen stove to draw out long, narrow thin-wall eyedroppers from 1/4" glass tubing. These I used to refill the nominally single-use ink cartridges of my favourite Parker fountain pens. At university I diluted the ink with rubbing alcohol so it would dry faster on the pads of cheap yellow newsprint on which I took my lecture notes. Now at age 74 I marvel at the human progress I've witnessed with my own eyes & ears. We live in a time of great miracles & growing human prosperity world-wide - don't let the pessimist woke crowd or the climate alarmists tell you differently...

Great to see you 'forging' ahead on this project... 🙂

Hope you're doing well. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

I loved how u adapt it to our needs😊

Blacksmith work is the most fun a grown man can have without having to repent latter.

In my 1975 horseshoeing school in Bozeman Montana, I believe my instructor called your "clinker breaker" a twier.

Crossing my fingers that you show the shroud making ! Great series to follow. Thanks as always, Keith.

Thanks, Keith! You present an excellent discussion of the process of designing a pattern, as well as how the pattern will be used. Every video you make provides a great education.

I like the new camera angles, we can see different parts of the shop that we haven't seen in a while!

Looks great. as far as the feet go if you really feel down the road that you would like some feet on it, instead of trying to cut an angle and match it on all 4 feet you could just turn ball inserts and have those as the feet. would solve any gougeing issues with moving it around and you wouldn't have an issue with level. also it's look great without taking away from the look of the peice and they would be removable and replaceable.

Good morning Keith. Coming along great. If you could talk the tinsmith into explaining the layout it would make a great video. Thanks again for all the work to post the videos.

Good Afternoon Georgia!😊

Gee, Mr. Village Smithy, all you need now is a spreading Chestnut tree to stand beneath. Thanks for the video. Sorry I missed you at the Bar-Z. Jon

Coming along nicely Keith. Thanks for sharing.

Nice work Keith can't wait to see it finish.

Thank you for sharing Keith

Thank you Keith!

Thank you Keith, every video that you present is a great lesson.

thanks for the again for taking the extra time for the extra explanation about the casting repairing and molding a new part!!👍👍👍👏

excellent work

Nicely Done !

As far as the feet are concerned I think the feet were done that way because a lot of blacksmith shops had dirt floors or something like stone or brick. So that foot would dig into the floor.

Thanks Keith, akways instructive!

Looking good, enjoyed this video

Thank you for sharing.👍

Nice work!

Great video. I liked your explaining interchangeable parts "from back in the day".

Good morning, Keith. I am really enjoying all your projects. I have been a subscriber for years. Thanks

Most excellent.

Hi Keith - That is your forge, you can make it any way you want. You are restoring it to factory new and that is the way it should be done. You did an amazing job of cleaning out the pan. Looks very n ice. Are you going to put in the hi-temp lining to insulate & protect the fire pot. I note that you hid a 2 cylinder drive engine for a stoker under your work bench. Is that still a project or abandoned or ....

Nice job thanks for sharing

That's such a "because I can" answer for why you're making the new gear and I am on board with it.

Nice work on the forge. It will be great for your shop.

I have an old forge very similar to yours with what I believe are the original legs and they are like you're saying the catalog shows

First metal work I ever did was my grandfather taught me how to fit horseshoes -- we used horses to work the cattle, pull wagons and sleighs, and even do light field work once in a while. So blacksmithing was my first introduction to metalwork. I even modified our backyard brick fire grill to be a small forge in my early teens.

And just think of all the smores you can make with this sucker!

glad you used Square nuts too ,even though most wouldn't notice.great keeping it as original as possible. and doing it your way,gear will be good content.

I made my forges ducks nest out of 3/8" hastelloy that we were using when building the precipitator ductwork baffles at a power plant in PA. I bet it could last a thousand years of use!

I just read all the comments. Gee whiz I sure am glad you have thick skin and keep posting these great videos. Thanks, Keith.

Nice looking.

Excekkebt Q&A Keith. Good questions asked & answered.

Great video as always.👍👍👍😎😎😎

The breaker variant is a major upgrade, and it is period correct, more or less. The ancient original needs some love. Something on the back shelf, for future project. Cool to re-use something familiar.

Keith, I wouldn't bother explaining myself to the haters, it's your equipment you do with it what you want

The legs with that design fit on uneven cement or dirt floors. My ranching grandfather had one. The legs must have been a couple of inches deep in the dirt floor of the blackshop on the ranch near Cody, Wyoming. He used it mostly to forge weld chain links, and wagon iron for repairs. But I mostly remember the ferrier that used it when he came around to shoe the horses. Grandpa Johnny used firebrick grouted with some sort of refractory cement to line it.

( Been meaning to comment for ages )...Looking good!...your weight-loss suits you

I saw him cast the parts for the sugar cane mill!

Thank you for your responses to reasonable comments/questions. For each one posted, there are likely many more, like me, who wonder why you did something in a certain way.

Nice work Keith. "Do it once, do it properly"

In my favorite movie, A Christmas Story, Ralphie's dad is in the basement fighting with the coal furnace. He yells" it's a clinker!" Now I know what that means. I'm always learning from you. Thanks Keith

Ospho works great too and you can paint over it

wow,, its been a while keith and i saw the thumbnail and thought....who is that,,,,sir you shed a lot of weight i hope all is well medically as always thanks for the videos may there be many more.

👍 Another great video!

Keith, I would suggest adding about a 1" spacer under the firepot to bring the level of the firepot up to line up with the bottom of the forge. This will allow the use of fireclay to protect the forge, plus it will allow you to heat the middle of a long bar in the forge. I have used forges with and without the spacer and it works much better with. If you don't want to mess with fireclay, you can use insulating firebrick and just dry fit it in the forge.

I just figured you were going to make a new gear because you could. Plus it links you to WHF, gives Clark another job to video that has a little more meaning for us viewers...

we used castable refractory in the bed of our forge, lasts a long time, without burning out the metal.

The bottoms of the legs being pwepwndicular to the pipe likely is a benefit when using the forge on a dirty/gravel floor to help hold it in place.

Keith, ever consider getting a flammables cabinet for all that paint / primary / stain / etc?

Making the things that make the things.

Might I suggest - use a clamp and clamp the bar to a pipe and heat and bend around. Or try to be deft at hand and free hand. 🙂

My guess is the original legs of that forge were cut the way they are cut because most blacksmith shops had dirt floors. Those sharp corners can dig in and become stable. These legs may be an issue on concrete floors or they will be fine. If there is an issue Kieth can make feet for the legs possibly with a locking caster system.

would be kinda fun to make feet for it that were adjustable for different floors areas

I suspect most of those forges sat on a dirt floor so the bottom of the legs wouldn't matter. The ones that were used on concrete were probably moved around enough to wear the bottom of the legs flat.

My nose remembers the smell of coal smoke in my grandfather's workshop.

In looking at the bottom shelf of the work table I see what looks to be part of the stoker engine. I know you have a lot going on and have done quite a lot these past couple of years. Is the stoker engine coming back?

You could always make a simple foot that fits into the pipe to get it to sit on concrete better, That way it wouldn't damage the concrete or the leg . Still match the original that way with no modification. Just a suggestion.

Just out of curiosity I got the inflation tables out and that part would have been worth $160 approximately. However realizing the rarity of an item like that now I would bet you paid only about $50 back in the day.

The steam stoker engine was making a cameo appearance.

Kieth - if you need an alternate source for 3D design and printing feel free to reach out. Be happy to pay back for the entertainment and education.

16:41 - those "hockey puck" clinker breakers are ok, but the original champion forge had a different style. At my local ABANA chapter they had both and the real Champion tuyere was much better. The angles were such that the air would blow straight up into the coal/coke, the "hockey pock" style would cause the air to be diverted and run along the sides of the tuyere and burn them out. We replaced several of the "hockey puck" style tuyeres in a couple years while the Champion tuyere was still original and in great working condition. I really hope you are able to get an original Champion tuyere on there sometime

With a mold you can make many parts from one mold.

Hey Keith! I'm sorry that I haven't been following much lately. Life has been hectic. I stopped by to tell ya that you look great! Ya seem to have lost some weight and you look happy! I'll be catching up on your work soon enough 🤞

that's why they make a pattern makers rule for each metal ,so in your case the 1 inch datum is 1.125 from zero and so on

Hey Keith, I see the big casting under the bench there, looks like it was from the train project? What ever happened with that project? I recall last time it went to Adam and then didnt hear anymore about it. Can you give us an Update on it? thank you sir

Good morning all - Keith, I wanted to verify that braze would hold up to the temperatures of the fire pot while forging? -tks grant

Cheap are you going to put some concrete in the bottom like like I originally had just asking alright this is Bob from grill Beach Florida god bless have a great week and keep up the good contact

I to would like to see the hood being made.

could you turn the shoulder on the carriage bolt on the lathe for a better finish

My thought for the feet: what about tennis-ball sized feet made of brass then you would drill them and slip over the existing feet. Then you could put shims inside to make-up for any imperfections in the floor where it will sit or if the top is warped and the legs aren't a true vertical. Or have Clarke cast some lion feet for an added effect.

Since I retired, smithing has become my full-time occupation, so I am enjoying this rebuild. I would like to encourage you to not use some fancy modern refractory goo to line your beautiful cast iron forge pan. The real traditional material for this basic job would be a few shovels full of good old red Georgia clay. It is readily available, cheap, easily repairable, and will do the job without problems. And when it is time to move --dump it out in the garden and move on. This material is so good that "they" even mention it in songs.

Im curios were most of the champion forges made with cast Iron bowls. The one my father got off the farm he grew up on was about the size of a weber grill. I believe it originally was lever operated all that as there was the ball at the end of the lever it worked but no belt. Did the Champion have cast iron bowls. The other question did Champion paint there forges a light green color similar to bison forges. I had read that the Champion forges were of higher quality.

Leg cut: That's my saw, and I'm sticking to it.

Out of curiosity, are you going to place the forge inside or outside? If inside how will you vent the hood?

About the picture of the forge from the catalog: It's a little hard to tell because of the size, but are the legs on the pictured forge all going fore and aft? You have yours all 90° apart, but the picture looks like the front ones are 180° from the back ones.

just wanting to know , is that the stoker engine peeking out from under the bench ? what is the status is it a dead end

I always wanted to learn how do blacksmithing but I know that I probably wouldn't do it enough to want to purchase the equipment

Hi Keith, just curious aout the 10EE.

I understand why you are making a new gear. Adam Booth just brazed up a heavy duty gear for a beam drill and even though he did everything absolutely correctly, the dang thing still cracked at the very end while it was cooling. The small thin gear you have, I can see anyone trying to mend it and having it crack in new places every heat/cool cycle.

Will you be using this in your shop or outside?

I think I'd be making a clinker breaker pattern and sending it to Clark just to keep everything original. I do understand your reasoning, however.

Okay I don't remember you getting that bandsaw. How long has that been in the shop?

Doesn't that high heat paint require baking to cure it?

you seem to have lost a hell of a lot of weight lately, it was always something i saw as kinda dangerous to your health but it worries me you have lost so much so quickly, is everything ok health wise?

Will you mount wheels? With brakes?

Keith, a question some might have about the blower gear is, why not make it out or AR series steel?

Is that the Stoker Engine on the shelf of the table the anvil is on?

John Deere Muffler Black the best high heat paint there is

I would vote for half ball inserts for the feet. Also curious as to the purpose of the raised edges of the fire box?