This is Mike's bike, ya'll: kzfaq.infoVD6wYwtwwMc?feature=shared

Man, awesome to see it starting to piece back together! Still can’t believe how clean the headers are…and not to mention the heads!

Those are some beautiful pipes, I use Eagle One Nevr-dull wadding polish, and fine sandpaper if it had ever been wrapped or to clean surface rust. Teflon washer/seal on the primary chain tension, if it were to leak mine would probably be the first, since I had a crack running along the thread. Oil drain plug, use H-D rubber O-rings cause if it's too big it can blow out the seat, and yes.. crack the cover, and 14 ft lb of torque the manual suggests is questionable as well. Way too tight for an oil drain bolt if you ask me but anyway, use discression. As for not damaging the shift shaft seals I use alcohol or accetone to dry the oil so the tape sticks, then wrap clear shipping tape over the sharp parts, leaving a bit of extra at the end to fish it through more easily then just slide it on as evenly as possible. Same goes for removal of primary cover, always use clear packageing tape first. Not sure how that would work with the tight brass bushing... but that tape is pretty thin and rather strong. Carefull with grease in the primary oil, it can contaminate clutch surfaces. I also saw the brake rotors on the back wall and I have been rather happy with the EBC rotor paired with EBC metallic race pads and the EBR front rotor mounting hardware which basically makes the brakes no longer "floating", and instead hard mounts to the rim. Motul RBF600 DOT4 race fluid is outstanding, brake lever feel is awesome, no soft "smooshy" feel. You can also go with the semi-metallic pads, depending on how you ride, but I had never felt any issues even in cold weather with brake fade on initial brake application, probably due to Buells huge rotor heating up rather quickly. Good thing you did'nt polish the ports on those heads, there is quite a bit of information on fuel beading on a smooth surface so best to leave it rough, it can cause raw fuel droplets to enter a hot combustion chamber, not to mention only atomized fuel vapor burn. As for the exhaust side, again a rough surface creates better flow, kind of like how the dimples on a golf ball make it fly farther... but anyway. Nice work.

For those interested, please check out Chad's FB page: gotiny.cc/p3yxh2

can i ask how much to have them do your heads? my bike is down right now and im prob going to just pick up a motor. but i may rebuild mine slowly and add some power to it.