EXPERIMENT: Automatic Primary Chain Tensioner

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5 жыл бұрын

Discussion on the Harley Automatic Primary Chain Tensioner and the Hayden unit. In a quest to "make things better," I have modified the setup of the Hayden Primary Chain Tensioner. For better or worse?
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Пікірлер: 309

@klum4502 3 жыл бұрын

I used two springs and both shims and no problems whatsoever. About 10,000 kms later had to replace the stator, so had to go into the primary again. When checking the Haden unit it was in perfect shape. Hardly any wear on the shoe and looked good. The chain tension was spot on as well. Great option to the HD tensioner. Also, when the shoe wears out, there is a replacement shoe available online. It's got my vote, for sure.

@fredmeyer3063 Жыл бұрын

That's good to hear. It looks like the Harley tensioner has close to 50% more contact area between the plastic shoe and the chain, so I wondered how fast the Hayden shoe would wear.

@keithdarlington985 5 жыл бұрын

Mark just to add, I personally want to thank you for not only making these HD videos but also for your innovative problem solving. It has given me the confidence to to replace both my compensator & chain tensioner myself. I just need to find tune it a little.

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the compliment, Keith, but I'm not an expert. Just someone curious enough to look into these issues and brave enough to try other alternatives. Daring? Stupid? Maybe.

@baronvonchickenpants6564 7 ай бұрын

I don't own a Harley, i never even dreamed they had all these issues, i own a 98 Valkyrie and a 79 bmw boxer All very interesting stuff

@bassslayer18 Жыл бұрын

This is not what you want to do to the Hayden. The Harley adjuster creates a tight condition that will pull on both input and crank shafts causing major problems. The Hayden allows the slack to be in the chain to absorb the shock of hard takeoffs and heavy engine breaking. By tightening this up you may as well stayed with the stock P.O.S adjuster. The Hayden has been on place on high horsepower bikes and everything in between. It has worked great on my 103 for 10 years and 123,000 miles with no bearing damage on either shafts including the inner primary bearing that is the first to go with the stock adjuster. Don't mess with what works. ROOSTER

@kbstorm1462 3 жыл бұрын

I installed the Hayden on my m8 with no shims and the tension was fine. The reason for two springs is if one fails you still have tension until it is replaced. That’s my understanding.

@hotboy197988 Ай бұрын

I would have left both spring in because that's how it's designed. Over a short time the one spring will ware out much faster. Also there's to spring designed to do two different things one helps more at start up the other helps bounce back when running. Together they help each other.

@larrys.3992 5 жыл бұрын

Set up my Hayden tensioner per the instructions for my 1989 FLHTC. Ran it for 80,000 miles, no problems.

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

That's good to know, Larry, thanks!

@kb-xz4yb 5 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 Mine had 140,000klm on a 96ci S&S motor and no issues

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

@@kb-xz4yb that is great to know! I should open up my primary to put an eye on mine, but I don't hear anything out of the ordinary down there.

@tyee4u 3 жыл бұрын

Agree 100 on the single spring on the Hayden. Did the same thing on one of my 09 touring bikes and noticed a marked improvement 👍 Just bought another 09 and will be changing out the stock tensioner soon.

@arkansastrey9694 2 ай бұрын

Very informative video , helped me wrap my mind around what I'm fixing to get into . 👍

@idessaoutlaw Жыл бұрын

I've been running a solid sprocket up front since the 70s and have never had any problems. The compensators cause the problems. 🥃😎👌

@john0270 Жыл бұрын

I placed an extra spring in my new to me stage 4 2000 fxdwg, pretty much solid now in my opinion. Hopefully no harm in it. No more clanging and banging on startup but dang that starter has a hell of a time with the big bore high comp pistons.

@leetyler4122 5 ай бұрын

Well explained!

@rickyricardo976 9 ай бұрын

I just removed the pos harley auto chain tensioner on my 2016 Tri-Glide. It tightened the primary chain to tight, where the bike was clunking into the gears, and when I pulled in the clutch, I heard the compensator clunk a little. I ordered a Hayden M6, but decided to also order a Southern Oregon Hot Bikes HB125-07 Hydraulic auto adjuster. I like the idea of how it works with hydraulic pressure pushing on the shoe/chain. Anyway, at least I'm getting rid of that scary harley tensioner.

@whenim6462 3 жыл бұрын

Good video, thank you Mark.

@bkdexter79 2 жыл бұрын

I did this upgrade about 12 years ago to my 2010 Road King and didn't use the cardboard shroud....ugh! What a mess! great video!

@contact4mwy7 2 жыл бұрын

Bruce, I didn't use a cardboard shroud the first time I tried this and can confirm... What a mess! Thanks!

@firegrunt03 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the video fireman/traveler..be safe...

@finley614 5 жыл бұрын

I went with Bakers Manual Tensioner and also put in a Baker Compensator. Definitely one of the best upgrades i have done on my Bike. The Automatic tensioner is nothing but a problem maker and will cost ya more than its worth. The automatic chain tensioner in my bike became tight and ruined starter clutch, clutch hub, ( broke all The splines in rear of hub ..,if you don’t mind doing your own preventative maintenance on your bike then Baker Attitude manual tensioner is the way to go. I have over 10,000 miles on mine since installing and not one issue and primary is pretty quite.I did recommended 5,000 mile inspection and it still was in perfect spec. Getting rid of the automatic Tensioner was best decision i made and going with Baker Compensator was an even better decision

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

Thank you for that info, maybe it will help others in deciding which way to go. It's good to get recommendations on here from someone who puts the equipment to the test in the real world. I appreciate it.

@jamessanchez9446 4 жыл бұрын

I have a 2008 Dyna and while I was replacing my stator I noticed the clutch hub splines were broken which I had to replace it also. I could not figure out what could have caused those splines to break. Perhaps I need to replace my tensioner also?

@LOVE-JC777 2 жыл бұрын

You had the A B Or C tensioner ?

@finley614 2 жыл бұрын

@@LOVE-JC777 the Harley Davidson one was the original from factory ( 2008 Ultra Anniversary) which I know they have made some changed to those( not sure if that problem exists still on over tightening) as far as the Baker Tensioner i have had 0 issues with it and it’s the updated one they have on their website. Got rid of the original compensator cause they wasn’t built to handle the TC 96 but was ok for the TC88 and thats another reason for the high fail rate on these early TC96 bikes

@williamolson3704 Жыл бұрын

@@finley614 Yup, all the same issues on my '09, except the starter issue. Good thing I do most my own work, or it would have cost a bunch. The parts alone aren't cheap. All because of a design flaw that Harley won't stand behind. I just watched a KZfaq video by Doc Harley regarding Harley's auto adjuster. He admits the problems it can cause, and then gives advice as to checking and "resetting" it. What really blew me away is that he went on to promote it by telling you what bikes can be "fitted" with that failed tensioner! I had plenty to say in the comments........

@TheBBGlobalNetwork 6 ай бұрын

Very helpful video Brother! Thanks! SMIB.

@contact4mwy7 6 ай бұрын

SMIB, Brother!

@robertglancy4474 2 жыл бұрын

Just put one of these on my 2012 Road King, chain appeared to be pretty tight with the HD tensioner and I have just 41K on this bike. I used both springs no shims and it loosened it up some with a little more play in the chain and the 3/8th gap they call for is a tight 3/8th. You definitely have more flex in your chain then I do, maybe due to just having the one spring. Have to wait until next Sat to give it a ride but I think it's a good swap out, at least I don't have to worry about it ratcheting itself tighter. Referenced your vid during the process...thx.

@contact4mwy7 2 жыл бұрын

As long as you have some free play and about 3/8 gap space at the base of the shoe you should be ok. It will probably whine for the next 500 to 1,000 miles as the chain settles into the shoe.

@robertglancy4474 2 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 I have now put a couple hundred miles on this tensioner, no issues, no strange noises in fact it's pretty quiet. Happy with the upgrade.

@clownpocket 10 ай бұрын

I might have a loose primary chain, stock ‘01 adjuster, and I get “sneezing” when starting a hot engine. Tomorrow I will check the chain. Was getting some weird drivetrain issues.

@bigrednick100 3 жыл бұрын

In my 2012 Ultra with the 103 I noticed that the primary is much louder after the install. Also to be noted is I am running the Darkhorse Man-o-War compensator.

@contact4mwy7 3 жыл бұрын

If it's a fresh install it will take a 500 to 1,000 miles to "bed in." Then it will quiet down some.

@MiguelGarcia-oh8nn 5 ай бұрын

I installed the man o war compensator and think is way louder as well which gets me constantly tearing down my primary cover… I made a video showing the primary run uncovered and the chain looks like it’s snacking all over the place… will this tensioner fix that problem? We will see…

@Wolfsbane115 5 жыл бұрын

I've fitted the Screaming Eagle compensator kit to my 07 Softail, all seems good bar a clunk from the compensator when I stop the engine, I've been told its nothing to worry about as its just the sprocket coming off of the ramps, what do you reckon ??

@dougfresh1341 3 жыл бұрын

I reckon the SE Comp is piece of junk. Every time it clunks it’s wearing the ramps of the sprocket. Installed a Darkhorse ManOWar and never looked back. Good luck.

@ethanintheelements2528 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for these videos! Just watched this one and both compensator videos. I have a few though. 1: did that screaming eagle compensator come with the little black piece that is supposed be applied to the inside of the outer primary to funnel oil into the compensator? I only ask this because I watched doc harley compensator video and he said the screaming eagle had that piece. 2: have u or anyone else had any issues with bad vibration at about 2300- 2500 rpm. I have a 07 dyna 96ci twin cam and getting some vibration. It happend after going up a rutted gravel driveway to fast lol. I replaced the faulty front motor mount and it improved it. Checked the back and it seems still good. Just wondering if I got something loose in my primary. Or something. Thank you ! Sorry for the long comment

@contact4mwy7 4 жыл бұрын

No apology necessary, Ethan. There are two editions of the Screamin Eagle compensator setup. The earlier edition, which is the one I installed, does not utilize the plastic funnel. The later edition has holes drilled into the innards of the compensator and is recognizable by it's cone-shaped torx bolt. The cone helps to direct the oil from the funnel into the holes. As for your question about the vibrations, I'm afraid I'm not familiar enough with the causes of engine vibrations. I have seen videos and discussions on something called "crank scissoring" causing engine issues where the pressed together crankshaft halves "twist" a bit. I'm not saying that's your issue as I'm sure there are other possibilities. There is a fair amount of spinning mass associated with the engine such as the stator rotor, compensator, and clutch basket. By the looks of your profile picture it looks like you really get out there in the elements indeed!

@Roadking556 2 жыл бұрын

That chain runs really smooth while running. The start up with the spring flex causes it to jump all over the place. Guess it's a design trade off.

@Ben-et8wh Жыл бұрын

but it's still only jumping 5/8 which is the same amount it would jump around with other tensioners

@hennryhill621 2 жыл бұрын

Manual,s are the way to go

@scootervtx 5 жыл бұрын

Had a 2008 Road King that shredded the inner primary gasket behind the clutch basket due to the "automatic chain tensioner". Went with the Screamin Eagle comp and Hayden tensioner and it worked fine. Now my 2016 RGU is getting the Baker comp and Baker Attitude tensioner cause I don't trust that "automatic stuff".

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

I can see how and why you would be skeptical of using an automatic one again. I think the short of it is that you have to check any of the "automatic" tensioners from time to time due to wear and stretch issues. So it may as well be a manual tensioner still in some cases! Let me know what you think of the Baker Compensator after you've put some miles on it.

@prawny12009 2 жыл бұрын

Is there a support bearing in the case for the clutch? It looks like there is some give/ wobble in the clutch in slow motion.

@contact4mwy7 2 жыл бұрын

There is a support bearing behind the clutch. I didn't notice play in it, so I'm wondering if there is a wobble or if the camera makes it look that way. ?

@outspoken5326 2 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 LOL that wobble is a optical illusion. with the movement of the chain and the clutch basket makes it look like theres a wobble..i have asked that question to several bike mechanics. to double check. grab ahold of the clutch basket and see if theres any movement from side to side or up and down. if theres movement i would replace the bearing..

@johnjohnson2855 6 ай бұрын

Every time that chain slaps it’s putting undo stress on your bearings.

@geoffmitchell2143 2 жыл бұрын

I installed a Hayden on my M8, rode it for about 5K miles, and then reinstalled the stock tensioner. The Hayden shoe seems to make more noise. In the 5K miles, the chain wore the Hayden shoe more than 20K miles on the stock tensioner shoe. I like the Hayden design and concept more than the HD tensioner but the additional noise got on my nerves.

@contact4mwy7 2 жыл бұрын

I am familiar with the noise the Hayden makes. I have to wonder if it is because of the pressure being applied by the two springs, which seemed pretty stiff to me. That pressure may also lead to the plastic shoe wearing more? By the looks, the chain can only wear so far into it until the round barrels of the chain make contact.

@randymccalla9995 11 ай бұрын

The noise I found to be coming from, is the chain bounding or bouncing up and down on top of the teeth on the clutch (flywheel) gear. it makes a suttle ticking noise because the rollers lift off of the gears, oddly the factory tensioner doesn't allow that to happen 👍

@jimmyjakhama 4 жыл бұрын

Hi thanks for the video. I am having trouble with chain slap hitting inside the case just under the compensator. Had the cover off and compensator and everything seems fine. Thinking about trying the Hayden out.. any suggestions? only seems to be hitting after bike is warmed up.

@contact4mwy7 4 жыл бұрын

Hello Jimmy! Are you sure the chain is hitting the inside of the chaincase? Are there score marks to indicate that it is rubbing? If there are, you should check the existing chain tensioner to see if it is automatically ratcheting up to take up the slack. I have to wonder if the chain is so stretched that the automatic tensioner cannot take up the slack, in which case you may need to buy a new chain. The Hayden tensioner is adjustable with shims being added but I don't think it will adjust beyond taking up the slack of what the automatic tensioner from the factory can do. In other words I think they are about even in how much slack they can contain. Let me know what you think.

@jimmyjakhama 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the reply Mark. Yes the chain has made some score marks just to the right under compensator. Bike has only 21,000 km's on it but probably say ridden pretty hard. Chain seemed ok and couldn't see anything visibly wrong with tensioner. I am thinking just replace both and Hope for the best at this stage. As it only hits when bike is warm i am thinking its the chain expanding and tensioner not doing the job anymore.

@contact4mwy7 4 жыл бұрын

That is possible. Do have a mechanic handy that can take a look before you drop too much money?

@outspoken5326 2 жыл бұрын

buy a new chain i bet its streched to its max

@donniebenton4467 Жыл бұрын

@@jimmyjakhama

@timtreadway4431 6 ай бұрын

Nice ring

@jimdiavastes 5 жыл бұрын

Do you know what year Harley introduced the B unit tensioner to touring models?

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

I don't, for sure, Jim. I have seen a model 39929-06A (which is actually the second or "B" edition) on eBay from a 2008 bike. The models are 39929-06, 39929-06A, and 39929-06B.

@jimw7916 3 жыл бұрын

Do you know what year Harley will get a bike that dont need fixing???

@allan9584able 3 жыл бұрын

@@jimw7916 everything needs fixing at the end of the day

@willielopez3126 5 жыл бұрын

Does it make a lot of noise on star up or shut down, I tried the big spring with no shims and I was getting a lot of noise on shut down

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

Willie Lopez I wouldn't say it makes a lot of noise, or more than it did. I'm need to know more about why you went with that setup to maybe shine more light on the subject. What was the gap between the shoe and baseplate? I've read that some people have tried the single spring thinking that both springs together made the chain tighter than they would like it to be. Thanks.

@willielopez3126 5 жыл бұрын

Mark Young - Outside The Box I called Hayden and they advised me that they know of people that have gone with the big spring only and no shims and it had worked for them but with that setup I was getting a lot of noise from the primary. For a gap I had 3/8

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

Willie Lopez based on what I know of this setup, from reading, videos and personal use, I would think that one spring plus the 3/8" wide gap would be too much free-play? Would the chain be able to move about so much as to cause your noise? Even at 3/16" the chain seems to have more up and down movement on the top middle than what was suggested on the older manual tensioner settings, which I believe we're 5/8" TOTAL up and down, not just up.

@arthurcgans8198 Жыл бұрын

Nice ring Brother!

@contact4mwy7 Жыл бұрын

Thank you, Brother!

@NativeSD53 3 жыл бұрын

Mark - Follow up on your modification to the Hayden tensioner? You went the both shims and took out the smaller inside spring. How did that work out for you? I am trying to loosen the tension provided by the Hayden 07 in my 2010 heritage softtail. And, of course Hayden won't return my tech request calls.

@contact4mwy7 3 жыл бұрын

I tried calling them too and didn't get through. I'm still running the bike with this setup and have not detected any issues from sounds or the way the bike is handling on acceleration or deceleration. I do want to open it up soon and take a look at how it is holding up, but it is not giving me any suspicious activity at this time after putting a couple thousand or so milles on the bike.

@outspoken5326 2 жыл бұрын

threatin Hayden with THE BETTER BUISNESS BURAL... ONCE THE BBB STEPS IN SHIT GET HANDLED

@gregr1672 Жыл бұрын

I have the OEM Chain Tensioner shoe on my 87 FXR and its still good .I do think I am going to run it a little tighter than 5\8 cold they recommend!I always measure 3 places to find tightest spot in chain and adjust it there. I might just buy new chain seeing its got 80k mi and 36 years on it.

@contact4mwy7 Жыл бұрын

I bought a new chain for mine with just a little less miles on it. Didn't want to be out somewhere with a busted chain.

@samelbe1838 5 жыл бұрын

I have a 2013 ultra and it was noisy, changed out the Compensator to a Screaming Eagle and change the Chain Tensioner to a Hayden. Very quite and finds Neutral easy now - like a new bike. HD Tensioner is JUNK..

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

Good to hear, Sam. I'm using a similar setup now, but I closed the gap of the Hayden to 1/4 inch instead of 3/8. Seems to help the startup scenario.

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

Meant to say 3/16 inch gap, not 1/4.

@dougfresh1341 3 жыл бұрын

When that SE Compensator gets worn and noisy, got with Darkhorse ManOWar. Waaaay better than Harley.

@zachklisiewicz5880 5 жыл бұрын

How manh bellevelled springs did you use for the final result? 5? 2 large. 2 med. 1 small? ()()( Or 6? 2 large. 2 med. 2 small? ()()((

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

I used 2 large, 3 medium, no small. ()())() Large to the left, medium to the right. Watch this video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/itydgLd9ytmxaY0.html

@dannpd1955 4 жыл бұрын

Ive had several Hayden tensioners on HD bikes from shovel heads to evos and had good luck with all of them. They didnt look quite like to one you are showing but basic operation was the same. I think they are better than stock anyway. I was always modifying them too.

@SWATT101 Жыл бұрын

Did the SE comp and Hayden last year...not convinced...

@roncoburn7771 2 жыл бұрын

great video mark i wonder how these are making out on the m8's

@contact4mwy7 2 жыл бұрын

I haven't seen much info or video on that, but I would suspect it to function very similar to the twin cams. Still using mine even after switching to the factory automatic tensioner until I got a new primary chain for it. Original was stretched beyond what the included shims could handle.

@aboutmyfathersbusiness8324 5 жыл бұрын

Screaming eagle makes a manual tensioner that looks like HD's auto tensioner. They say it is for racing applications. It's probably what should have been in the bike to start with.

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

That sounds like a unit I saw listed on J&P Cycles, manual adjuster that looks the same as the auto adjuster. If I remember correctly, the price was around $75, but they no longer show that unit on their website. Thanks for the info.

@donniebenton4467 Жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7

@petethepunisher3015 4 жыл бұрын

Good video.

@contact4mwy7 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you, Pete!

@stevehelton7825 3 жыл бұрын

I put the Hayden on with the 1 spring.How many miles do you have on it now.

@contact4mwy7 3 жыл бұрын

I have around 7,000 miles total, and about 4,000 with the single spring and shorter gap setup. I just opened the primary last week and found no issues with the shoe or anything to do with tensioner, but my chain has stretched a bit more and I had almost a quarter inch gap now. I couldn't feel anything to tell me the gap had widened and the chain was still tensioned good. I'll be uploading a video of that soon. Spoiler: I put the original Harley Davidson tensioner back in rather than order more shims to close the gap back to where I liked it. As seen in the video, I think the shoe would have still been ok riding up that high between the metal guides. I would probably still be using it if the chain had not stretched more.

@2012Bougie Жыл бұрын

Nice to know. I did notice your S&C ring, hello Bro

@contact4mwy7 Жыл бұрын

Greetings my Brother

@keithdarlington985 5 жыл бұрын

Mark can you give us an update on this setup with 1 spring & 3/16" gap. My bike has only 15,000 miles on it, the compensatory is failing & I think the chain is too tight with the Hayden installed as per instructions. I had installed the Hayden to try to alleviate the hard starting issue & loud bang I hear on startup but all its done is made changing gear more difficult.

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

I don't know how many miles I've put on it so far, but absolutely no felt or heard issues so far. Startup is solid, even when hot. I'm thinking of going to 1/4 inch gap with that single large spring next time I open it up, just to reduce the amount of slop in the chain. The springs in the automatic Harley Davidson tensioner look to have about 1/4 inch movement of their shoe. At least the Hayden can't go any tighter than that. What year is your bike? 15,000 miles doesn't sound like many miles for the compensator to fail. What size motor? What model bike?

@keithdarlington985 5 жыл бұрын

Mark Young - Outside The Box its a 2009 heritage softail, I bought it used from a lady owner. I think the engine has been run in top gear at lower than highway speeds. It is mint shape but there is a laboured start with a loud bang, the starter bendix is showing some wear on the teeth which I think is caused by the chain being too tight, but I'm no mechanic either. Any advice you have would be of help. I plan on changing the compensatory to an SE unit over the winter & obviously look at the Hayden at the same time. The bike changed gear much easier with the HD tensioner than it does with the Hayden. The chain was much too tight with the HD tensioner and still is too tight for my liking, much less free play than you have, with 3/8" gap on the Hayden.

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

@@keithdarlington985 ok, so you've had it opened up. 96 cubic inch? Does it have the flat pancake looking compensator like my Road King originally had? When the spring pack on my original went weak (and apparently I bought it that way at 64,000 miles) it was a thrash banging mess to start at the gas station, not due to the Hayden, but due to the ability of the crankshaft to rotate backwards from the compensator not putting enough tension on the sprocket to keep it from doing that. So as the Piston compression would come and go on startup, the whole mess is going forwards/backwards causing the loud noises and confusing the crankshaft sensor into not knowing where the Pistons actually were to inject fuel and fire the plugs. I don't think the 3/8 inch gap helped that out at the time, but ultimately it was the compensator's fault. Swap out with the SE unit and the noise should go away and your confidence come back. Mine has on both. PS: I added a 3rd medium spring washer to my SE pack to try to beef it up more. It seems to be doing the trick so far. I have yet to open it back up to see how things look.

@keithdarlington985 5 жыл бұрын

Yes it has the stock HD compensator.

@donniebenton4467 Жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7

@waltersacha3991 5 жыл бұрын

The stock "one way" tensioner only tightens... it has been known to wipe out the crankshaft bearings as well as all three bearings on the clutch side clear down to the mainshaft in the transmission. I've seen it, its ugly. I'm running the hayden tensioner and solid crank sprocket now. No more starter clunk.

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

Thank you for that comment, Walter!

@twocents2557 4 жыл бұрын

That’s what happen to 2012 electrical glide, took inner primary bearing, at the time it happened they were back ordered 2 months. I put a manual chain tensioner

@RickDelmonico 11 ай бұрын

When did the B unit come out?

@contact4mwy7 11 ай бұрын

I don't have an exact year, Rick, but my 2009 was equipped with one. I'm actually thinking about putting it back into service.

@NUTACE 5 жыл бұрын

That's a nice ring you got there brother :)

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

Thank you, and are you of the Fraternity as well?

@NUTACE 5 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 Almost. Waiting for initiation 😀. Do you carry the Square and Compass anywhere on your bike?

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

@@NUTACE not yet, but working on it. I greet thee, my Brother!

@thewidowsson8118 5 жыл бұрын

Another brother who travels

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

@@thewidowsson8118 I greet thee as well! Thank you!

@bobjustbob5220 5 жыл бұрын

a tight belt is a happy belt, but a chain runs better loose!

@myredute 5 жыл бұрын

Then again,like on all the Ducati's I've had & built, piss the chain off & run a gear drive between the crank & the clutch drum. Smooth & absolutely faultless. The fact of course,why this can't be done on a Harley,is because of the distance between the primary & the clutch drum. An ancient design that Harley need to get their head around.

@myredute 5 жыл бұрын

@@thakery5720 An idler gear would negate the whole gear drive setup. It would never work. Harley use a chain primary drive,like so many other manufacturers because it is cheap & easy. A manufacturer like Ducati are miles ahead of this mob because Dr. Taglioni was & still is,years ahead with his Desmo valve operation & gear drive from crank to cam shaft operation. The smoothest V twin engines ever designed & manufactured.

@myredute 5 жыл бұрын

@@thakery5720 The idler would have to have the same number of teeth as the primary drive & the clutch drum otherwise it would be screaming its head off between the crank & clutch. Absolutely impractical!!!!!!!The only thing that has to drive the same way as the rear wheel is the clutch drum. The crank can turn any way the starter motor wants to send it & the ignition system accordingly. This is how Ducati runs,because I have built these engines for 30+ years. It's the distance between the crank & the clutch drum which is the problem & yet Ducati can still build a V twin engine without the vast distance between components. The fact Harley have a trap door in the Primary Cover to change the gearbox ratios is something Ducati could never do. Have I educated you enough now or do I have to explain it again?

@theone2be33 5 жыл бұрын

@@myredute no. I got it. And I don't own one. And because of this I never will. I HATE HAVING TO Fine tune shit that should be perfect to begin with! Thanx for the info. 👍😎

@GeorgeLeon 3 жыл бұрын

@@myredute except it had worked for decades, S&S has had a gear drive available, as has Fueling and many others. Gear driven big twin cycles are noisy as hell with a gear drive though. you also have to consider, Ducati, any sport bike, is different. You aren't providing 100+ foot pounds of torque to 800-1200+ pounds of cruiser. Open or covered dry belt driven primary and getting rid of the comp sprocket is the way to go.

@lizerdthebarbertv Жыл бұрын

Can you do a video on how to remove and replace a fuel pressure regulator. I have a twin cam 88 road king.

@contact4mwy7 Жыл бұрын

I currently do not have access to a twin cam 88 bike. I hope you find an answer somewhere on the great big internet.

@dannyburgess2781 Жыл бұрын

I just. Like to know. If I need order. One this automatic ajuster. To. Up grade it.

@Pork-Chopper 2 жыл бұрын

Primary chains don't last forever. I remember on the older Shovelheads, back then, these "smart guys" thought they were outsmarting the setup by turning the tensioner "upside-down" to tension an already wore out Primary chain. Not Good. My setup is a V-twin York hydraulic chain tensioner. It does have a spring, n you adjust it like you normally do. I set it at 1/2in up n down play, and the hydraulic part can give it up to 5/8ths extra play, however, the action is smooth n damped, not like a spring that has bounce. I check adjustment everytime I change primary oil, n the adjustment has been dead on for over 40k miles. Works great. I do know that new primary chains must be checked within the first 3 to 500 miles, or for some reason they just seem to stretch out beyond adjustment rather quickly. This initial adjustment must be done or the new chain wears prematurely and trying to throw different adjusting mechanisms on it to get it to adjust is like pissing in the wind. It may seem like its in adjustment, but it still flops up n down like the video shows. Too much flop tells you the chain is wore, it should always be snug with minimal movement. The hydraulic system I put in works awesome, the adjustment is always right on, eventhough the compensator does give me a bit of a clunk every now n then when I dog the engine.

@thakery5720 3 жыл бұрын

I have commented on your videos about compensator sprockets before and told that I run a solid sprocket - well I still do and find it OK, The thing I'm gonna mention here though is about chain tensioners :- I use an aftermarket manual tensioner that is very much like the Screaming' Eagle one and have found that with my 'upgraded engine' of over 120 bhp and torque I seem to have to adjust it quite often. The clutch drum does expand when it gets hot so I get brave and adjust things when it is still relatively hot so as to take said clutch drum expansion into account. I seem to remember setting the adjustment so that there is 5/8 " total flex on the upper run of the chain and all is good for about 500 miles. I should mention here that I fitted a new chain so that may be 'bedding in to the engine and clutch sprockets, but I do after 500 miles get a noise which tells me that the chain is hitting the primary cover as is evidenced by marks on the inside of the cover. This seems to happen at idle after starting when the engine is cold. It is my opinion that the outer chain cover does not allow enough flex of the chain..... maybe this replacement chain is poor quality so as to require frequent adjustment. I do like to do a 'drag start' now and then and the bike is a relatively light Dyna albeit with a quite fat rider ! The tensioner shoe doesn't show much wear so maybe it is the chain. Just my little observations - maybe add to the debate, and I thought about an M6 but the advertising 'blurb' mentions it is not for High Power bikes.......

@waynebolton7057 5 жыл бұрын

Hi again bolts turned up very nice. Fitted the Hayden tensioner could only get a 1/4” gap between the shoe and the base plate tried every way 1 spring/ 2 springs no way of getting 3/8” gap . The chain is not overly tight still have slack at the top and the adjuster seems to be working well went with 2 springs in the end . Change all the oils for the syn 3 oil went on test ride changing gear is better not as clunky selecting neutral is a lot better but I think that could be the better oil the oil that came out was either poor quality or in there a long time I think. Very slight noise from the Hayden tensioner but I think that’s it bedding in did a 200 mile round trip great day no problems so far 🤞will do 300 miles more and pull it apart and have a look unless anything happens before that oh only problem I noticed lost the chrome button off the end of the throttle grip 🤬please let me know what you think. 👍👍

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for getting back to me on this, Wayne. 1/4" gap maximum is likely due to your chain being in really good condition; not a lot of wear or stretch. You're missing 1/8" gap according to Hayden's recommendation without using any shims, but I don't what their advice would be other than it should open up another 1/16" or so once the shoe "beds in" as you put more miles on it. I know your bike is a 2009, but I don't think you've mentioned how many miles are on it. The whirring or whining you may hear will diminish as you go until it levels off at a certain point when the bed in of the shoe is complete and all surfaces of the chain contact the shoe. In this video at about 11:00 into it, I remove the Hayden tensioner from my bike after about 5,000 miles of use. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hrSqe7yYsdjJlGg.html You can see in the video that the shoe has let the chain bed in, but not a lot of wear otherwise. The benefits I see personally with less of a gap are easier starting and less "pogo-bounce" when using the engine to slow down the bike (where the bike bounces back and forth like someone is repeatedly squeezing the brake and letting off over and over). I hope you keep me posted!

@waynebolton7057 5 жыл бұрын

Mark Young - Outside The Box . Hi yes sorry my bike has 20268 miles . Forgot to add the original tensioner I think is what you called a b tensioner which seemed quite tight before I took it off . I will keep you posted as to how I get on . Many thanks

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

Wayne Bolton that's not a lot of miles which may explain why the chain is not giving you more than 1/4" gap. Ride on!

@scottgorman7166 4 жыл бұрын

I used to use the Syn 3 in my primary bit switched to conventional oil 20 k ago Its quite, smoother shifting. So at 26k I switched and have 47 k now on a 09 Flhx. Additionally my tranny oil is conventional and motor is Ams Oil.

@waynebolton7057 5 жыл бұрын

Hi there just got my Hayden tensioner just waiting for some stainless dress up bolts so I can put it all on together I’m in the United Kingdom so it takes a while to get stuff from the states. When I’ve fitted it I will let you know how I get on . I have 2009 fat boy with a lot of clonking going in to gear and hard to find neutral . Great videos very helpful 👍

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

Wayne Bolton thanks for letting me know! Keep me posted. To be honest I have not noticed a difference in shiting into first, or the rest of the gears, or finding nuetral. My opinion is that a lighter grade oil in the primary, that also soaks the clutch plates, allows the clutch plates to separate from each other with less "stiction" between them which keeps the transmission shaft turning when the clutch has been pulled in. Make sense? You will hear a whirring whine for the first thousand miles or so until the chain wears into the plastic shoe and settles in. I can kind of hear it still but it's nothing I can't live with.

@williamjohnson6517 3 жыл бұрын

I have a Haden H6 in my 2005 Deuce run Amsoil in all three holes . Don't want to keep dicking around with manual adjusting .Also have the full innards in the cam chest getting rid of those crap cam chain tensioners. Now have S+S whole kit , cam plate, high volume oil pump , adjustable push rods ect. Running S+S 509 G cams . Only just done so I have to ride it 😂but apparently it should pull nicely from the get go to 4,500 RPMs. Gear Drive BUT you must check the pinion run-out as anything over 0.003 is not recommend, because Harley stopped truing their cranks in later years.I used to live in England ( 50 years American LONG STORY) back in America now North Carolina.😎🇬🇧🇺🇸

@donniebenton4467 Жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7

@MoeLarrycurly1 5 жыл бұрын

I think you hit on something there. I have an 09FLH. And I have the stock tensioner in there for now I got about 65,000 miles however at 50,000 I did replace the inner primary main shaft bearing. You did well thought out demonstration and you come up with a good conclusion

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

mot ikswelborw I really think the newer generations of Harley automatic chain tensioners are working as intended. I would not hesitate to go back to one, really. Thanks for commenting.

@bassslayer18 Жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 the stocker is junk. The Hayden is the fix. 123,000 miles to prove it and no bearing issues. I have a buddy who was going through inner primary bearings every 20,000 miles because of it. I put a Hayden in and the that stopped butt cold. So it does work as intended. And put the second spring back in. It backs up the first and keeps the larger one from flying around in your primary causing all kinds of damage in the very very rare chance is does break.

@bassslayer18 Жыл бұрын

The stocker is junk. The Hayden is the fix. 123,000 miles to prove it and no bearing issues. I have a buddy who was going through inner primary bearings every 20,000 miles because of it. I put a Hayden in and the that stopped butt cold. So it does work as intended. And put the second spring back in. It backs up the first and keeps the larger one from flying around in your primary causing all kinds of damage in the very very rare chance is does break. Think about the big picture before telling people you took out the insurance policy built into it.

@dannyburgess2781 Жыл бұрын

I did and I don’t see why any one want. Chsnge auto ajuster. It. Work great.

@user-os9lu8bq8c 2 жыл бұрын

Do you use 20w50 oil in primary or ATF?

@contact4mwy7 2 жыл бұрын

I have used both and I prefer the ATF. Opinions vary as you will see in the comments and various message boards about the subject. The biggest advantage to me is it doesn't feel like the clutch plates are sticking together by a heavier oil, smoother clutch engagement. Do your own research before you decide what to use, such as oils that are specifically for the Harley Davidson primary.

@nathanhare7262 Жыл бұрын

Can you push old chain tensioner back down I took mine out and it opened all the way up lol I forgot the zip tie

@contact4mwy7 Жыл бұрын

Yes, it's a handful, but if you lift the grooved block up off the plate just high enough to clear it, you can slide the block against the spring back to the bottom of the ramp section. Then zip tie it quickly. It may take multiple tries to wrestle with it until you get it to stay. Good luck!

@nathanhare7262 Жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 thank you so much

@tenwalls2428 11 ай бұрын

Just now seeing this four year old video, but, still interested in how that decreased gap adustment worked out. Lots of possibilities along that "catastrophic failure' to "great idea, works-as-hoped' spectrum. So,...

@contact4mwy7 11 ай бұрын

Works as hoped, I didn't find a reason to increase the gap.

@tenwalls2428 11 ай бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 Thanks for the update. That primary chain whip action can be due to excessive runout on either sprocket assembly shaft, compensator or clutch.

@gamergirl6486 2 жыл бұрын

I have a 2008 glide with 140000kms should I pull it apart I was told Harley fixed there tensioner issues

@contact4mwy7 2 жыл бұрын

Harley did upgrade the tensioners, but I don't have a year/model timeline to go by. The first models, known as the A models, had coarse teeth on the ramps that took bigger leaps (supposedly) when it self adjusted. The second generation, or B models, were given finer teeth to be able to make smaller adjustments (supposedly). The third generation, or C models, did away with spacers used to offset the alignment, but are not much different other than that. I'm hopeful that your 2008 has the same B model as my 2009 from the factory. I'm still using the Hayden manufactured unit even after swapping back to the factory for another go and testing.

@brush5072 3 жыл бұрын

How’s that single spring setup working?

@contact4mwy7 3 жыл бұрын

I hope to open it up soon for a visual, but no heard or felt issues so far.

@brush5072 3 жыл бұрын

How many miles have you gone so far with it like that?

@contact4mwy7 3 жыл бұрын

Around 5 to 6 thousand miles.

@brush5072 3 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 thanks Mark. Hope everything is good when you look inside because I just did the same thing.

@Hellbilly85 2 жыл бұрын

the guide part of my hayden shoe broke. the piece that runs along side the metal. not sure why but i got a replacement shoe. hopefully it doesnt happen again. the shoe coming out of the metal bracket could be devastating.

@contact4mwy7 2 жыл бұрын

Whooaa, sorry to hear that, glad it didn't do any damage. I think the plastic shoe, even though tough, is a weak point on both the factory and the Hayden tensioners. Was it making a strange noise to alert you something was wrong?

@UnderTaker2040 2 жыл бұрын

you can also put a strobe light pointing at the primary while it`s running without watching a slow-motion video clip...

@jameslanning8405 3 жыл бұрын

You are supposed to turn the chain to it's tightest point... Meaning that the compensator has no play or slack in the ramps. 'Then,' you measure the amount of upward movement in the chain... Obviously, if you try measuring the slack in the chain in its slackest position, you might overcompensate the tensioner. Then it will be too tight when the chain is running...

@mustbescud Жыл бұрын

I'm not sure if its obvious thing but I tried doing what you recommend on sportster. Problem is when I set bike to first gear, idk how to spin the primary chain. How would I spin the prim chain to find the tightest point?

@contact4mwy7 Жыл бұрын

I would have the bike in Neutral, put a socket on the compensator bolt and turn by hand.

@midnightmc3096 17 күн бұрын

@@mustbescud 5th?

@DavidBarkes 5 жыл бұрын

I am wondering about the bolt fastener for your compensator. I am in the process of installing the "screaming eagle" compensator on my 2009 Street Glide. The kit comes with a Torx T70 bolt as opposed to the original stock bolt that looks like the one in your video. I looked at the bolt head clearance to oil holes that are directly behind the bolt shoulder. I think the "Screaming Eagle" Torx T70 bolt has a shoulder that will allow oil to access the holes. I believe that the bolt that is shown in your video will blank those holes off. I am not sure of this but that is what I observed when trying to use the original bolt (since I do not yet have a T70 socket). I am opting to wait until I can get out to purchase the T70 socket rather than use the original bolt.

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

David Barkes you are correct to wait until you get a proper torx bit! My Screamin Eagle compensator is a model prior to your newer kit. It does not have the oiling holes and thus uses the hex head bolt and does not employ the oiling funnel epoxied to the primary cover. Good eye! If you are upgrading from the factory flat style compensator you will be happy with the SE compensator. Good luck!

@mikedeuk9351 5 жыл бұрын

Hey love the vids.. I put the Hayden on my 12 fatboy.. getting clanking at hot start up.. I also have the baker compensator.... What you think?

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comments, Mike. I have had no experience with the Baker compensator yet. If it we're me, and I'm no expert, I would open up the primary and check the tension (springs) of the Hayden, and also check the Baker's condition, see if it freely rotates forward and backward which may indicate that it's springs are getting weak? How many miles do you suppose you've put on the Hayden and the Baker since installation?

@mikedeuk9351 5 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 I put few hundred miles on both... Baker is solid, no movement... Thinking maybe clutch basket

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

@@mikedeuk9351 the clutch basket and the starter are also involved in the startup process, so either one could be the culprit as well. Have you tried starting the bike with the primary opened to try to further pinpoint what's going on? Just remember to put something around the inner primary like I did to keep the oil from flinging all over the place.

@mikedeuk9351 5 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 Hi Mark Hayden told me that aftermarket compensators tend to run drop big.. told me to ride it for more than 500 miles to break it in... Then take out second spring if still have problems

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

@@mikedeuk9351 did they say anything about the gap setting? I agree they take some time to break in, mostly for the whirring noise they make at first. Mine seemed to fade until about a thousand miles on it. I chalk up all noise now as just normal components doing what they have to do. How have your starts been as you put some miles on the new setup? Again, I wish I knew more about Baker. I'm satisfied with my Screamin Eagle compensator for now. The units they put in the newer Milwaukee Eight 107 and 114's are very similar to my SE unit, except beefier! I have to wonder if some of your clanking on hot startup is due to the recommended 3/8 gap on the Hayden? You can see in this video the difference it made on startups.

@martinwall7297 5 жыл бұрын

nothing like a manual adjuster set it as you need

@twocents2557 4 жыл бұрын

ROY bean Just put a manual in my 2012 electric glide automatic one tighten up and took the bearing out on the clutch or inner primary. Looking at putting in a Hayden

@-MrRichBiker1967 3 жыл бұрын

05' fatboy babie...manual .got that set at 1/2' tightest spot. runs good, but hear chain tick when HOT!? anyone??

@contact4mwy7 3 жыл бұрын

That ticking noise could be coming from the chain, clutch basket, compensator, bearings, etc. I don't have an answer on what it could be. Next time you have it open move things back and forth, up and down, and such to check all parts inside the primary.

@-MrRichBiker1967 3 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 thank you so much Mark. Love watching your informational videos. You got a great Persona and sense of humor

@-MrRichBiker1967 3 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 I've been watching your videos for a couple of months now... you take that primary cover off like you got it down to a science. You make it look so easy, I'm always nervous about that not seating right and it leaking. But that's what I have to do to really see what's going on inside, I think the compensator, is the culprit because I get a lot of weird starts. I had a lock up start yesterday. And then right after that it would crank but wouldn't turn, then I got a Code PO 374 CKP.(crank sensor), took it out and cleaned it put it back starts okay for now!! fingers crossed!!

@Tater4200 4 жыл бұрын

why do they not put a tensioner on both sides?

@contact4mwy7 4 жыл бұрын

It almost seems like it needs it, right?

@jeffuren6942 2 жыл бұрын

I come from an industrial engineering background..working on very bigger Hp chain drive setups....Never ever ever put a tensioner on the tight side..ie as this vid shows the sprockets driver is the front sprocket therefore the chain pulls towards the front wheel..this top run is the tight side..yes it whips on startup & will have a wave effect in running...thats the way it should be & why on heave industrial setups the tensioner setups are on the slack chain run ..ie the lower chain...also the industrial chain tensioner are SPRING LOADED as this is NEVER USE A FIXED TENSIONER & Never tension the drive chain run The main problem with this setup is the housing is too close to the chain

@brentmack51 9 ай бұрын

Hey Mark funny story I just picked up a 76 sporty and I looked up primary chain for 76 sportster you popped up but I didn't realize it was you till you started talking then I looked to see if I did stumble upon your wonderful information station. I told my girl hey I know this gut I mean really know him like dated his sister in law. And he worked with dad. She goes there is probably 100 Mark Youngs I said maybe there is but I know this one then she asked who didn't I date I chuckled and said marks sister? Big fun. By the way did you ever own an iron head

@contact4mwy7 9 ай бұрын

Hello Brent! I was just talking about you and your Dad recently with some people who were originally from Dover! I have never owned an ironhead, but hope they are very similar to the panheads and shovelheads. Those three versions have the best sounding engines IMHO. I hope you are doing well my friend! Rock on!

@brentmack51 9 ай бұрын

@contact4mwy7 it is basically a shovel but the jug and head is iron and I agree the sound is delightful .I'll post up a video of this little dream machine for ya alls well down this way keep on keeping on brother

@JustMeHereAtHome 3 жыл бұрын

The bulk of overhead cam engines that run a duplex chain have a guide on the tension side of the chain to prevent chain slap, it's just a thought after 50+ years on spanners.

@outspoken5326 2 жыл бұрын

there has to be that sloppy play in the chain if its too tight. you can screw up the main bearings having the chain too tight

@JustMeHereAtHome 2 жыл бұрын

@@outspoken5326 Absolutely that's what the tensioner is for, the one on the tension side of the chain is simply a guide to prevent the chain hitting the case on deceleration when you are talking about a drive chain. If you have a sloppy chain on the tension side when the engine is under power there is something seriously wrong. The chain only needs to have enough free play to allow for runout of the crank and the clutch basket/gearbox input shaft. If the tensioner can't handle that, either the tensioner is not right, or there is too much runout, both these conditions are standard OEM design "features" from the factory, hence the need for master technicians like Kevin and the aftermarket industry.

@acewindbreaker 2 жыл бұрын

Hi Mark! In this video you present the idea of removing one of the springs on the Hayden tensioner, as well as reducing the gap under the shoe. I am just wondering what made you remove one of the springs? Seems to me that must result in a chain that becomes more "loose", but with less total slack. Why the lighter tension on the tensioner, why not use the full tension of both the springs? Something must have convinced you to remove one spring....... I also want to thank you for thinking "outside the box", that makes me and probably others as well, do the same!

@contact4mwy7 2 жыл бұрын

Hello Ace! I didn't like the larger recommended gap, it seemed to allow the chain to flex a lot on startup. Sometimes there were starting issues. Also when letting off the throttle the bike felt as though it was bouncing back and forth, ahead and back, as though the slack in the chain was allowing it. But, to have a smaller gap underneath the shoe it really pressed the shoe into the chain with both springs. So to have a smaller gap under the shoe without the extra pressure I removed the smaller inner spring. I'm actually running a gap that is similar to what a Manual Tensioner would be set at, with the assistance of a spring to help cushion the chain. Startups are good and there is less back and forth "bobbing" when I let off the throttle. I hope this explains it better?

@acewindbreaker 2 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 Yes, it all makes perfect sense, I think I might be using your method when and if I find the need to change my compensator and tensioner. Thank you for taking the time to answer my question, Mark!

@dannyburgess2781 Жыл бұрын

And it did. With one. It run. Good for year on ling trip. Spring. Mess up. With one spring

@FXSTDUECE 5 жыл бұрын

nice Mason ring

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

Thank you, sir.

@johnjohnson2855 6 ай бұрын

Now the new Harley model is aluminum base and plastic ratcheting mechanism on top of the aluminum base. Junk!!!

@GIGABACHI 5 жыл бұрын

Primary Drive, that's one thing Victory had right from the get go. No goofy chain or adjuster.

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

It must have been a good design, I haven't seen any videos on swapping those parts out.

@2004sadmanco 5 жыл бұрын

Mark Young - Outside The Box Do some quick searches of Victory and bad starter clutches. EVERY motorcycle has a weak point. My Victory has this problem, which made me roll-start the bike to get home and to the shop. The job entailed removing stuff inside the primary

@dannyburgess2781 Жыл бұрын

Counter clock wise forward.

@timbarnett3898 4 жыл бұрын

I don't know if I'd second guess hundreds of hours of engineering by removing that inter spring? That's the one part I'd leave be, an to the engineers! Top chain slack is 5/8 so if your just under 3/4, your there! Two springs there to support each other, I was intended in why no flat washer that springs could ride on! instead of wearing through shoe!

@contact4mwy7 4 жыл бұрын

I plan on opening the primary to inspect the tensioner this Spring. I went with one spring because two seemed like too much tension to me. And keeping in mind a stock manual tensioner doesn't have a spring at all, I limited the gap using the supplied shims to simulate a manual tensioner. We'll see if that panned out or not.

@timbarnett3898 4 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 I'd like to know your thought through a season or two! It amazes me how this stuff interests me! You too, as seen in videos, Thanks!

@contact4mwy7 4 жыл бұрын

I have read a lot of posts on forums about this chain tensioner. Problems in the early stages of development, issues some riders were finding, and I saw a change in the size of the gap be reduced from earlier installation instructions from the Hayden people. I also owned a 1997 Road King with a manual chain tensioner that had to be adjusted to a measured amount of slack. That's how I got where I am in my setup thinking. I'm glad it interests you as well.

@jmh033089 Жыл бұрын

I see your a traveling man.

@contact4mwy7 Жыл бұрын

I am so taken and I presume you are as well!

@dannyburgess2781 Жыл бұрын

I under stand that as well. But again. The. Hayden. Don’t. Go. Up enough Yiu tri maje like ideal roller. May be. Need. Ideal roll with spring. On it.

@dannyburgess2781 Жыл бұрын

It. Running. Counter. Clock wise

@dannyburgess2781 Жыл бұрын

The. Spring. Need. More. Room to move

@porkchopspapi5757 4 жыл бұрын

Just my opinion but I can't stand the idea of 3 lbs of loose chain wobbling around. Belt drive is a mandatory up grade.

@brandonmacon3317 2 жыл бұрын

Chains are overall stronger than belts. Heavy metal always wins🤘

@fatbackcrowe2448 3 жыл бұрын

Seen another video of these and it had loads of chain slap. Wont go on any of my bikes.

@Foxone1 5 жыл бұрын

I had the Hayden on my 2009 softail. Too tight with both springs and no shims , phoned them , emailed them many times, got no replies as I believe there is a new spring kit available , so I binned it, Thank you Hayden for nothing....

@NativeSD53 3 жыл бұрын

Robert - Did you every go back to a Hayden Tensioner? I had one in my 03 and loved it. Just put a Hayden 07 in my 2010 and it sounds like the chain is too tight. I can't get Hayden to return my calls for tech questions about tightness.... frustrating.

@contact4mwy7 3 жыл бұрын

Native, I hope Robert replies, but let me ask you, how many miles have you put on it since installation?

@Foxone1 3 жыл бұрын

NativeSD53 Hi , sorry, no I did Not , it’s in a box in my garage as I. got no joy from Hayden and gave up. Harley Davidson have since upgraded their auto tensioner to one with more teeth , which stops it from jumping forward on bumps and over-tightening the primary chain , I am very happy with that ....

@NativeSD53 3 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 1600 miles +/- I ride a lot

@contact4mwy7 3 жыл бұрын

Ok, well it should be broke in by now. What sound is it making that makes you think it's too tight? Did you see Robert's reply?

@LOVE-JC777 2 жыл бұрын

What wrong with the original HD ?

@contact4mwy7 2 жыл бұрын

The original compensator was not strong enough for the 96 cubic inch motor starting in 2007 through 2010 or '11. The Screamin Eagle was the factory replacement.

@LOVE-JC777 2 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 I meant the tensioner . I’m planning to use one for an early model twin .

@contact4mwy7 2 жыл бұрын

@@LOVE-JC777 Some believe the automatic primary chain tensioner ratchets up too tight. If you have a manual chain tensioner and check it at whatever the recommended intervals are, you should be all set.

@LOVE-JC777 2 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 👍🏼

@CHEVYK10 5 жыл бұрын

I feel it should at least have a guide up top

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

It sure does give that impression, but for as lose as I have tested the chain tension there are no visible narks on the upper part of the chain case.

@CHEVYK10 4 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 11 months later How's everything holding up

@contact4mwy7 4 жыл бұрын

It held up all last Summer into Fall, and I've been riding it some this Spring, no issues. I hope to open it up for a look see real soon though when I change out the fluids. No Laconia Bike week until August so I haven't been in a hurry so far this Spring. But soon. Thanks for asking.

@CHEVYK10 4 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 Thanks for the response

@dannyburgess2781 Жыл бұрын

If dose get go tight it need. Little. Working with until it. Just right it really close way it is.

@edmundwasilewski 2 жыл бұрын

I've tried to contact Hayden via email, absolutely no response, have 1 technical question. Poor response Hayden.

@contact4mwy7 2 жыл бұрын

I had tried calling their phone number when I first bought the unit for my bike and didn't get to speak with anyone at that time. I don't know how big or small of a company they are, but communication with them seems very limited from my experience and what I've read on message boards.

@TheMetalmachine467 Жыл бұрын

Maybe instead of 3/8 gap should be 1/2 that would make it tighter

@dannyarendall5233 11 ай бұрын

What? 1/2” is much more than 3/8” that would increase the slop

@jimdiavastes 5 жыл бұрын

Ok - but if the stock ver 2 tensioner was fine - why even use the Hayden - especially if you had to modify it to get it to work correctly? seems like you are flirting with trouble.

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

Most likely, Jim, if I hadn't spent the money already I would have stayed with the stock tensioner as it was performing as it should on my bike at least.

@dannyburgess2781 Жыл бұрын

I thank. That self ajuster. Is. Great. If yiu understand it. They. Spring. Give when give to much. It. Rise up. Notch. Thst. Very smart. And I don’t se how it can get go tight. There no way it can get go tight. See it Onky go if. Got. To much. Slack it not going. Tight up until. The spring. Give to much. As it dose. It. Push it up notch. So it make where there no way it get to tight.

@warrenbiker 3 жыл бұрын

Hayden auto chain tensioner snapped at 20,000 miles

@contact4mwy7 3 жыл бұрын

Really? When you say snapped, what part snapped/broke?

@warrenbiker 3 жыл бұрын

@@contact4mwy7 the plastic shoe snapped in half and the 2 springs ground into the primary chain

@contact4mwy7 3 жыл бұрын

I'm sorry to hear that. I don't see very many failures talked about. Thank you for getting back to me with more info.

@darinrenz1746 3 жыл бұрын

An ad after 20seconds, i'm out of here

@theone2be33 5 жыл бұрын

Here's a better solution : make the damn primary housing bigger to prevent that damn chain from slapping against it. Hmmm... Almost like they designed it specifically to do that! 🤔

@tyee4u 4 жыл бұрын

If your chain has that much slop in it then you have bigger issues. The primary design is fine. The need for a better tensioner is real and Hayden is a great alternative

@jammor66 9 ай бұрын

Reducing your number of springs decreased your chain tension. You increased your chain slop on the top and it almost hit your case. Then when throttle is reduced the bottom tightens up and your tensioner bottomed out and in time will bend the bolts. That is why Hayden went with this design because the Harley-Davidson/Screaming Eagle ratcheting one’s self destruct. If you wanted less slack in the top part of the chain, add a stronger spring set but maintain the 3/8” gap if not 1/2” in that circumstance.

@jammor66 9 ай бұрын

I read one of the comments from earlier and trying the one spring but maintaining the gap may be something to try. Just remember when you are on the bike and you let off the throttle that gap has to take up all the slop.

@myredute 5 жыл бұрын

I reckon a lot of stuff on Harleys is absolute junk. I did a 1st. & 2nd. gear change on a 2003 100th. Anniversary Sportster with Websters Gears & it was like chalk & cheese. The OE cogs from Harley were absolute rubbish along with the gear ratios. That tensioner looks like junk as well. Any wonder after market stuff is better quality!

@contact4mwy7 5 жыл бұрын

The big twins give the hardware a pretty good thrashing! The chain tensioner I am experimenting with is an aftermarket. I'm still using it at this time.

@royhall5729 3 жыл бұрын

I had a primary chain jump a tooth and locked up solid at 60 mph.. buyer beware

@contact4mwy7 3 жыл бұрын

Roy, what caused the chain to jump like that? Was it the tensioner?

@RamminIt 3 жыл бұрын

That looks like 5/8” not 3/8”.....

@t.s.racing 4 жыл бұрын

Amongst Master Motorcycle Tech. hats, I also wear a Mechanical Engineering hat, that being said, your concern with the Primary Chain while starting, doesn't hold much value. Now if you want to video the Primary Chain during rapid deceleration and downshifting, with the approximately 900 pounds, ( bike and rider ) give or take, that's another story. Or the same scenario, while rapidly, accelerating, this would be of some interest to watchers. FACT: the Harley Automatic chain tensioner is a very poor device that can ultimately lead up to some MAJOR repair costs. It's safe to say that there's been MILLIONS of miles logged over DECADES with the O.E.M., manual style tensioner, ALL with NO ill effects. I won't unfairly label the Hayden unit as a bandaid for a unnecessary modification, but more like a gauze pad. I'd first use the Hayden, AS DESIGNED, not home modified. Good luck.

@contact4mwy7 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for commenting, Sarge. So far I have had good luck with adding more shim than Hayden recommends. At their shim specs the bike would yo-yo when decelerating, but by adding more shim to close the gap (closer to that manual chain tensioner setting that has been very successful) the yo-yo affect has been greatly minimized. The manual chain tensioner lacks any spring tension to help take up the slack, something this setup has an advantage over. I will most likely open up the primary yet again this Spring and check the condition of all parts involved.