Fantastic! I’m a long range precision virgin. Loads of good info! Thank you!

So glad to see some new content from you...thank you sir. Much obliged.

Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge on this subject matter. Awesome!!!

Great video glad to see you upload again. I laughed when you did the fingernail trick! I do that too.You have great videos and they are excellently commentated. Thank you Sir.

A really great video. Full of good info I can use going forward, no doubt I'll be referring back to this in the future. Thanks

Excellent Richard, I'll be applying this learning to mounting my S&B 12-50 PMII.

Great vid as all ways Richard , i all ways learn a lot from then , thanks .

Great vid, thanks for the pointers 👍

Thank you soo much! Great explaining. Thanks.

Very relevant video....this is just what I needed to install my new gear!!

Another excellent vid .

Great video.

Finally found someone speaking the same language... 😎🇫🇷😇 Regards from France

Great Information !

awesome videos man! just discovered your channel

Very educational

22.46....that serial # ........... that being said, thank you for the knowledge . I found this video while looking solutions to my zero eating up most of my adjustment(already have 20 Moa rail) need more I guess...? you have a new subscriber.

Good video

Great video Richard thankyou ,only one problem is that is a pen pushers nail and I have only a grafters nail so will have to improvise 😂

Howdy. Could we have your thoughts on using a product like a Wheeler scope mounting kit? Where one mounts the rings then installs the columnators and insures there isn't a twist or offset...then perhaps even lapping the rings a bit to insure exact contact. Yup an extra step and often unnecessary however occasionally a benz slips out of the factory w a bit of a flaw. Plus with a $2000 to $4000 scope and a few hundred in rings...If a mounted rail or a mildly out of spec reciever is found after a tier 1 optic is tweeked. Your closer the expert than I by a mile or 10, so that's why I asked, for me and other amateurs

I really need a terminator or a crusader for my sako that would be so cool to make vids with.

To recover some allowance settings lost due to the zeroing, a slanted rail can be the solution. With a 40mm tube scope you should have plenty of allowance setting but why losing some it ! But with a 1inch or a 30mm tube ( and there are still plenty scopes with such a small diameters ), the slanted rail save your life. I had to do that for my 22lr and 17 HMR.

Hi Richard! Can you please explain how did you adjust a two part mechanical system with only check the one from those? Half of what you are saying is perfect with vertical rope method and adjust the reticle to that, I fully agree. But, what I miss from your method is the horizontal adjustment of the rail on top of your receiver...or let’s say: the gun what you rest on bipod is perpendicular to the rope what you hang?how did you adjust the rifle on the ground ? Nice video and good infos here , but a little info missing from correct zeroing.

HI Richard Thanks for the vids, always great. Can you suggest a top end rail and mounts I could use for my new Henry 45/70, all steel model. I really want all steel, not aluminium if possible. Thank You Peter

Hi Richard, when you used the plumb line from a distance from the car did you first level the rifle , or is it a case of leveling scope according to plumb and position of the rifle in your shouldered shooting position, ie prone ? Other videos state leveling the rifle then leveling the scope?

Commenting on an old post. Very good video. Two points I think could have used more emphasis or clarity. Make sure your rail or bases are securely mounted and locked down. The second point is the one I have the most problem with. How do you get your rifle square to gravity before you start this entire process. If I'm using Picatinny rails I use a 12" level across the rail to get level. My real problem time is when I'm working with a round receiver. If anyone has a good solution for round receiver leveling I would appreciate it.

Do you use thread locker on your scope fasteners?

Hi Richard, what is the proper torque setting ? Thanks

2 things: 1. I see you have the Fortmeier/phoenix bipod ( the black one on the left at 28:15) that you can also mount above the barrel. What are your impressions on that? 2. I just ordered a Delta Stryker 4,5-30. But im not sure on the mount yet. Im currently leaning to the Spuhr QD Blockmount. You got any other recommendations for a good Blockmount ? The Rifle i will be mounting both of these on will be a Tikka T3X TAC A1. Also love your Videos. Your 2017 Roundup really sold me on that Delta.

What if you have the rifle on a cant when it’s placed on your shoulder ? The reticle is level with the plum line but the rifle is on a cant

I pick a tree or something on it’s own on the horizon & bore sight to that. I find I’m bang on paper then at 100 yards & with in 3-5 shots I can get a zero

Mr what scope rings do you recommend me for a shepherd scope drs p2 BDC due that I got the vortex rings and the rifle is hitting the target one yard high even little more

Thanks for an informative video. At what point does Strelok take in to account the additional 20 MOA rail? Thanks Alan

I'm a little confused by your comment when you said that you have 53 moa available in the scope shortly after dialing 73 moa up in the video. Along with a 20 moa rail whouldn't that be a total of 93 moa available? What am I misunderstanding? I assume the scope was zeroed prior to dialing up the 73 moa. Is that correct?

Thanks for a very useful video. I know that you are describing the setup here for firearms / bullet gun rifles, but I have a question regarding zeroing in an air rifle. Because of the rather "loopy" trajectory of an airgun pellet, there always seems to be two distances where the scope will be at zero, (e.g. 25 yards then again at maybe 50 yards) is there a fool proof method of zeroing an airgun scope to make sure that you are at your "first" zero point, (as an example I want to zero my scope at 45 yards, I want this point to be the FIRST zero point rather than the second zero point ) Not easy to explain, but how can I ensure that if I gat my scope to true optical zero that I am then adjusting it to hit 45 Yards as the first point on the pellet incline path rather than zeroing it as it begins to fall in elevation on the pellets second point of impact? Is there a very close range that can be used initially to check this point, say maybe 10 Yards or so? Reason I am asking is that I get some strange results when I zero at 35 yards then shoot at 40 or 45 yards, I would expect the pellet to have dropped a bit as the distance increases, but more often than not it actually rises! (It might be a characteristic of the rifle, as I often notice that at closer ranges the diabolo type pellets enter the target sideways, so maybe they have not had a chance to stabilize until they reach a bit further out. Many thanks!

Richard, an observation. Some of your explanations are not as clear as they could be. I understand what you mean because I already understand the subject, but I imagine a newcomer might feel quite confused. You could help make your explanation much clearer by using a simple drawing now and then. Nothing fancy, just a quick drawing on a whiteboard to illustrate the principles. A visual image would also help it "stick" in peoples' heads, as an aid to recall later. Keep up the good work. Love your videos!

Great video once again. What ballistic program are you using??

Great video! Only question is with Strelok Pro, how do I cater for my 20MOA Rail within the app?

Surely you know how to 0 your optic in 1 shot.. if not I’d be happy to explain.

After setting your zero, you found you had 73 minutes of vertical adjustment available in your scope. But at 22:34 you made that "53 in the scope" plus 20 from the rail for a total of 73. Shouldn't that have been 73 internal +20 rail=93 in total?