My 1988 chevy c1500 has 605,000 miles....started running a little rough and burning a little oil at about 500,000 miles...tried Restore, immediately noticed improvement. Been using it for the past 150,000..truck runs perfect. Not burning any oil....I am convinced I will make it to a million miles...by the way..my truck is all original, no rebuilds..change all fluids regularly..oil at 2000 miles. Trans once a year, radiator once a year, rear end every 2 years, power steering and brake fluid once a year..

When I was a apprentice diesel mechanic 30 years ago my foreman told me there's only 2 things in a can that works.. wd40 and beer.

I'm still laughing at borrowing compression from one cylinder to another to balance it out.

Ah yes! That place in Mexico where they use 55 MPH speed signs 😂.

It sounds like detonating because it probably is, and that means the Restore is working. You probably advanced the timing in response to the low compression, so when you restore the compression, you also need to either restore the timing or use high octane fuel or water injection to avoid detonation. So try backing off on the timing unless you want to use super gas or install water injection.

This stuff is amazing, maybe not for a big muscle car. My Wrangler used to have low compression, and had a lot of blow by and blue smoke from exhaust. 500 miles after first can, no smoke and no longer have to top off the oil every gas fill up. Only use about half quart in 5k miles, as opposed to 3-4 before. It definitely gives a breath of life in tired engines like my jeep with 280k miles

Rim job in the can? Sounds like the wrong kind of prison movie. Don't watch it Uncle Tony! Just don't do it!

Seafoam works pretty good. I added it to my 318's oil once and within 500 miles it ate all the gunk out of the inside of the engine. Unfortunately for me that gunk was the only thing keeping me from leaking lol

Man I'm amazed by Mexico's old growth woods...

And a collective sigh of relief from engine rebuilders everywhere! LOL!!

I used restore 1 time, in a SBF, and a couple months later, on the way to the hospital with my wife for the birth of my 2nd daughter, it lost oil pressure and seized. On tear down it had clogged the oil galleys. I had put it in a thoroughly warmed up engine after warming the Restore in hot water on the stove and drove it 25 miles to mix it well. I have not used any oil additives for over 30 years.

It’s almost like to rebuild an engine you must rebuild the engine. You out here doing God’s work my dude.

I've used it, and it provided lasting increase compression in all cylinders

ProjectFarm had great success with Engine Restore.

Project farm did a nice video on this stuff and had good results

Scotty's laughing in his computer chair on the porch across the way, there. 😂

when you are 10 miles from the crusher, but only 2 miles from NAPA lol

Dude, you’re awesome. You remind me of life when I grew up. Thanks for doing your videos

I used the restore in an old worn out 305 that was down in power and used oil. It definatly helped by using way less oil and i could feel a slight increase in power

That stuff works great. I've used it on high mileage engines and have had great results.

Im eating a giant slice of cheesecake while i watch this.

Uncle Tony, try 15W-40 diesel oil. Trust me, it works well on engines with "moderately" worn rings, providing better ring to cylinder wall sealing. It helped reduce oil consumption from

Seems like maybe its a good preventative for engines that are not too far gone

Engine Restorer works well when used in normal driving conditions, and does increase the compression on older engines. But if an old engine is badly worn out and needs a total rebuild.... it won't help much . When an engine gets that bad.... it needs to go to the machine shop.

All those additives do is empty the wallet, and plug up oil passages, marvel mystery oil only good one

Used a can of this in my 79 T-Bird with a 351m. Idle seemed smoother.

In my experience Restore engine treatment is good for wear caused by poor maintenance, mainly extended periods between oil changes. It works to fill in cylinder wall and piston scoring from dirty oil and contaminated or missing air filters . It has little effect on worn rings and taper in cylinder walls.

Love how humble you are, very good review.

My guess is that the compression did come up. Exasperating other isuues such as ignition timing needing to be changed or carb tune. If the compression came up im thinking it altered the tune it needed completely

Might be that the rings are too far gone for the product to bandaid at this point.

I’ve never had Restore actually make a marked improvement in an older engine. I have seen old engines with glazed cylinders get better ring seal by putting a small amount of Bon-ami powdered cleanser directly into each cylinder. Sounds crazy but it does work. JD

The way that car looks sits and sounds makes me happy

They gotta milk a lot of snakes to get a can of that oil. 😏

Sometimes it works and sometimes it don't. I've had good luck with it but not everytime. Love the channel Tony.

I knew you were gonna throw the can! 😂😂

Thanks for the follow up video and your lack of bias with the product. I've a 940 wagon with 255k miles on it and while it doesn't smoke, I considered using it depending on how it went for you. Not going to..engine still runs strong and doesn't smoke..ain't broke don't fix it sorta thing.

This stuff works. I have a 1,000,000 hp Chevy small block with Ironheads. Fixed it immediately.

Many moons ago, I used that stuff to get an other 20,000 miles out of a 76 Firebird with a 355. we weren't running it hard, but we did get her up to some good speeds. The CSL is supposed to be copper, silver and lead(be aware) particles, basically, the idea was to dump it in the engine, and combustion chamber heat would melt the particles into solder and fill the scratches in the cylinder wall. It's no replacement for a rebuild.

My 2cents , High mile engines - use heavier weigh oil for 1000km ( 600 ml ) drain and only use heavy w oil from then at the usual replacement . Was a tip from an retired aged mechanic and it worked wonders for my straight 6 jeep .

Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, just like a chebby! Lol! It worked in the 302 I had in my one ton but I went through about 14L of oil and 1500 miles of towing for it to seal the motor up. Front of trailer was dripping in oil from the duals, but after reaching my destination I noticed it seemed to be revving cleaner and it went from 1L per 300 km's to 1/2 L in 5000km's. (1/2 L between oil changes) ran the motor 3 more years.

I do recall on the first video where Uncle was running the gps timer and the cat was smoking quite a bit. The Restore fixed my 2.0 4 cylinder and has been running like a champ for 2 years

Do a leak down test UT. Let's see how bad those valves or rings are.

I've had good luck in my 68 HP H Code 383 using the Restorer. Engine has 120K miles with original rings/bearings, etc. Lots of blowby fume would come out of the PCV grommet when the valve was removed during idle. After restorer fume was nil coming out of the grommet. Didnt do a compression check before/after...but the car definitely has more power and the engine is much more responsive off idle when the throttle is flicked. As Uncle Tony says, I think it depends of the vehicle/engine and what the wear level of components are.

I'm interested to see how the oil looks after the oil change. Some times that stuff works for engines, other times it doesn't. This is what the experiment is all about. It tickles my curiosity but I'm not getting disappointed with the result. It'll make us a bit wiser in the end. Keep up the good work! 👍

I had an old 292 in my Ford years ago and used this stuff. It seemed to stabilize the motor and gave me a little more power.. I wasn't racing it at all. But when I changed the oil it got alot worse without it immediately. I noticed a substantial power loss and bought another can for the fresh oil. I give RESTORER a 👍

I use to use that years ago figuring what can it hurt. Every now and then i cut the oil filter open. I did that once after using that, it looked like it was all trapped in the filter.

Literally was in the middle of typing my question, and Tony answered it hahaha 😅 love the videos keep it up tony

I had an old Pontiac 400 in a 79 firebird.I bought a wrecked 77 T/A my and swapped it.It had untold miles. I drove it back and forth from Tampa to Chattanooga many times. I used this stuff every other oil change. It was still running when I sold it seven years later. It improved oil pressure and I guess it helped it live longer.

Hey Uncle Tony. Glad to see that your firewall is just as dirty as mine, lol! Meant to clean mine up when I threw in the V8 but... Oh well. Anyways, feels good to be early.

Anyone old enough to remember the JC Whitney catalogs probably remembers their "Liquid engine rebuild" where you dropped pellets into each cylinder, added some potion and VIOLA! New engine!lol! Same crap, easier to use....

Added to my 01 Corolla and she stalled after a couple of blocks. My mechanic had switched to 20W50 because she was burning too much 10W30. After the change in oil, she would belch heavy smoke but adding the ER, she didn’t smoke as much. I traded her in for a 04 WJ and put some in last night. Fingers crossed all goes well, but we’ll see. Cheers 🥃

RISLONE!!! REGULAR RISLONE . And I'm not in the Snake oil gallery. But that stuff is gold.

I put it in a 72 Jeep 360 v8 and it didn't stop smoking until I drove it for 60 days. I didn't even race it I used it to commute.

it was working,just a couple more runs and that engine would stop burning oil forever and stop using gas,moving under it's own power,ect.

I appreciate Tony's insight with that said I've had great results with engine restore in 4 bangers

We did a similar experiment 35 years ago on a city bound daily runner which had varying compression over all six cylinders with the worst at least 20psi on the others. Dropped the oil and refilled with a high detergent diesel oil and ran it for a couple on months.Hey presto, the compressions all raised to within 5 ponds of each other. Obviously the diesel oil had ungummed the rings and let them gain a bit more tension, but could've gone the other way and lost psi if the rings were broken and only sealing with carbon etc. The engine replacement held off to a later date. :)

Ring Job In A Can. you got my balls now

You got to realize the rings, Top is compression, middle is compression and oil control, and the bottom rails are oil control, you got power, not using a lot of oil, the rings rotate in the direction of the hone job, but the block is worn th top inch of the cylinder. I like to build Poor boy race motors, it could be any but for me its 20R or 22R Toyota's, I usually spin a bearing in them at 100,000 miles, you can cut the ring groove out and hone them and using stock replacement rings it creates a low tension rings Loose race motor using stamdard rings. New rings, turn the crank 10/30 and run premium and 100 octaine aviation fuel! Fun motors! An old V8 with 200-300,000 thousand miles the top inch is worn so much you can't clean it up with a hone. The cylinders an inchto an 1-1/2 inch down thew cylinder is sealing like a new engine, your oil consuption/lack of compression is in the top of the stroke. You never say what oil you run but any motor I run with over 50,000 or 80,000 I run 40 weight oil in. I am a big fan of 40 weight, not 10w-40, straight 40 weight. Fountain Powerboats did a test using all kinds of oils and Castrol 40w had a 8hp advantage over ALL oils, (in their new race boat engines) next was Castrol 10-40 with 5 hp advantage, and the rest all baselined about the same. ANyway my point is your rings are still doing their job, the block is worn causing the compression leak/oil consomption. Once the rings get stuck in the pistons you'll start getting fouled plugs and have to use the anti foulers from back when we were kids. one cylinder start oiling they would put an anti fouler between the plug and head, I had a '64 Doddge 400 with a 318 zig zag motor, it had a push button auto trans, they had a front and rear pump, you could pull it 40 mph and mash the "d" button, it would pull start it! Probably the only auto trans you could do that with!

I think it would be interesting to know the leak down on this engine. Obviously the bores are tapered causing the blow by at high rpm, I agree Uncle T.

Guessing that whatever this 'magic can' has in it probably packs behind/around the rings and keeps them from fluttering, without being strong enough to wipe bearings or thick enough to clog passages. So it'll work if you baby the engine afterwards, but the first time you really crank on it you'll undo everything and probably even worse because it'll take some carbon or goo with it.

It does work if you give it time. I have used it then later tore the engine down and saw the results.

Is it just that its a worn engine and these high RPM hard runs just pushed it to hard and it would of done the same thing with or without the unicorn piss?

I tried it too on a diesel and had similar results to yours. I also failed on emissions testing with double the allowed maximum. Changed the oil and got it close to as it was but it's still not the same. Also passed the emissions with just the fresh oil change. Just barely but I passed.

Probably just loosened the varnish around the rings allowing more oil to seep by on the intake stroke and the compression to drop a bit. Now if that was can of liquid chrome molly and some how adhered itself to the rings under heat & pressure......

I remember some stuff in the 80's that you had to pour into the cylinder at TDC and let it sit for a few hours (repeat for each cylinder so it took some time)...I didn't work either.

Seeing before and after compression tests would be interesting. The idea behind this stuff is that it contains I think copper and lead and is supposed to fill in the wear in the cylinders or something along those lines. I’ve seen both sides where it’s raised compression on an engine 30-40% and I’ve seen this kind of thing as well. Hell I tried it my wore out 5.9 magnum just to see if it did anything and I saw no difference in drivability, power, oil burn and compression didn’t change at all. It might as well have been plain oil for me. I had more luck with a high mileage oil which leads me to believe most of my issues are valve seal related though I’m sure the rings aren’t great either.

It works primarily on the valve guides and seals to prevent plug fouling and related oil loss not practical for worn out bores or rings. Just for engines that have been sitting for a long time and not worn out but sticky leaky etc this stuff will help that kind of condition.

I put some of that stuff in my last oil change. I didn't have any smoke but the truck had been sitting for a while so I Figured it couldn't hurt. I don't think it did much. I prefer Marvel Mystery, because it's good on everything. Chicken.. Pork... Beef..

I've been mechanicing for about twenty years (and certainly don't have the breadth of knowledge you do). I've had some old muscle from the 60's, and I've noticed that more modern products like Engine Restore usually doesn't produce the results that are advertised. I used that stuff in my 1990 Iron Duke and saw some Improvement, albeit marginal. Great vid, love your channel.

Back in the sixties and seventies, JC Whitney sold an engine overhaul kit. I consisted of an oil additive and "pills that were dropped into the spark plug holes. One kit or two for "large V8 engines" like Cadillac, Chrysler, and Lincoln. I gave my brother a kit to "rebuild" his International pickup. He passed on it. Re-gifted it....

I tried it one time in a 454 -no change in performance but the rod bearings went away soon after. That stuff has copper particles in it that are easy to see.!

I agree with rings! A 383 I tried to just re ring without checking the taper on the bores when I was young smoked only at high rpm took it apart 5 broken top rings!

Uncle Tony, I have used Engine Restore it in my 2014 Cadillac ATS, 2.0 Turbo. I have used ER since 50,000 miles. I now have 162,000 miles on the car now. I drove to Las Vegas and got 3 .mpg. My engine runs better then when I got it with 42,000 miles. I'm sorry you had bad luck with your truck. I SWEAR BY THIS PRODUCT !! Just FYI...I use the Fram Ultra Synthetic filter, and Mobil-1 high mileage oil, 5W-30, and one can of Engine Restore, ( 6-cylinder formula). And...compression....the car goes well over 100 mph without much effort. Thank you Uncle Tony for your video.

Many years ago used it 4 times - in 2 chevys 2 olds--stopped lifters up in both Olds- chevys were fine

My 7.3 diesel ambulance with about a million hours of run time used to blow the oil cap about 8 feet when loosened while running. After using CSR in it every oil change, the cap barely dances on the fill spout, and it's been going solid for over 8 years of abuse towing 14k+ pounds of tools and trailers up the passes like a trooper. I don't think I've ever seen it get less than 18mpg while doing it either. You can say it's crap all you want, but it's worked wonders on ALL the engines I've used it in.

So is this an oil thinner ? like what you use with paint to make it squeeze threw small passages so you can spray it ? If so I think it is working !

Now that you had it in for a bit and drove it. Drain the oil, put a good quality oil in with one quart of dura lube ( which is a compound similar to aviation oil additive) and a pint of high tack. Run it again and watch what happens with the time and performance. You will get an immediate compression increase following the initial restore treatment after about 50 to a hundred miles, but it will not completely stop oil bypass entirely. If the restore is left in and you do hard performance runs on an engine with excessive wear? The byproducts in the engine restore which are meant to fill micro abrasion in the cylinder walls will mix and burn with the fuel in the cylinders under heavy load causing detonation changes that rob power and hinder its performance. You can use the restore, but if your going to make performance runs on a tired engine, get it out. Otherwise for everyday driving it's fine to leave in.

Well this is as good a review as one could possibly get and the proof seems there - it didn't work on this engine that probably needed it and actually made it worse. Tony, I didn't hear you say you did a before and after compression test. Rings are all about compression (power), so if this product is supposed to improve ring sealing then there should be a noticeable rise in compression across the board. I think that would have been a worthwhile thing to do (bit late now though I suppose , if it's already been added).

I have a question which engine do you think would be better to build for a daily driver but it’ll be roughhoused and run down the strip a little bit. A 383 6 pack or a 440 6 pack or do the 383 but leave it a 4bbl with either a 850 CFM Carter Thermoquad or a Holley of some kind? (I can build either I’m but not sure which would be better it’s gonna have a hydraulic flat tapper cam with a lift in the 480s and It’ll be followed with a 727 torqflite and 742 8 3/4 3.23 gears with positrac. this will be for a 69 Roadrunner I’m currently building) thanks in advance I love your videos you’re one of the biggest reasons why I got a MoPar.

honest review. good job

The only engine I used this on was an 88 2.0L Cavalier that was not worth fixing, so I tried all the snake oil fixes to see if anything changed. Nothing ever did, some of the thickener stuff made the oil burn slightly less quickly but I'd still burn enough to run dry in less than 5 hours of driving instead of 3-4 hours.

YMMV oh well. I've used restore 20+ years on old engines, gas & diesel. I have also used heavier weight oil in some old style pushrod engines with very good results . But not the overhead cam ones. Currently get the best results from Valvoline high milage semi synthetic. And just now trying AT-205 additive for seals.

I’d say the rings are just too worn for that product to work. I’ve had it work on small engines before. Pretty well actually.

Tony cracks me up.

I’m in the Pontiac vibe club, which has the infamous 2.4 L Toyota oil burner. Various products are used here in there, however, the good mechanics Allstate, that it simply puts off the inevitable, engine swap or rebuilt

EXPERT, Amatuer mech-CAN-ic here guys. Had the super rare, now COVETED 1982 chevy camaro. Berlinetta with what would appear to be a two stroke iron Duke four pot. The way it smoked....using the 8 cyl formula would hamper, by a useful amount the smoke and its generous external oiling. Don't use it in something you care about. Good stuff as always Uncle Tony. Mighty fine fogger you got there!

My pops has 2-92' Dodge caravans 3.3 liters.1 he found in an estate sale and got this garage kept 92' with just under 48,000 miles has just over 50k now then he has a 92' with over 200k miles.He uses a combination of 10w30/40 Shell Rotella T,1qaurt Amsoil 20w50 and Lucas engine treatment"which is like glue" and this van runs just as good as the one with low mileage running the Shell Rotella T only in it.This thing never smokes still has comparable power to the 50k van as well.Hes been doing oil tests since the 80's between all the drag cars, motors built and the street cars.He even got crazy not to long ago and bought about 10 oil filters hell maybe more and started cutting them in half to compare filter elements to the ones hes been using.

Ive had good results using Wynns SuperCharge on high mileage engines that burn/leak huge amounts of oil.. Usually got oil usage down from ridiculous level to under 1liter (about a us quart) per 1000km/600 miles which I consider good enough on older cars. It doesnt really improve compression or power, but not having to add oil on a weekly basis and change sparkplugs every couple of months is a big win considering a can of that stuff costs about the same as 1 sparkplug does.

wdl1981 My first car was a 68 Dart GT. Bucket seats, console, auto trans....and the 273 V8. Great car. Was not fast off the block, but could hold it's own down the road.

I put a can of Restore in my '96 Grand Cherokee 4.0 with my last oil change, and I noticed a drop in oil pressure. Keeping the pressure relief valve from closing, maybe? A pint of Marvel oil and the oil pressure started coming back. To be sure neither my '88 MJ 4.0, nor my '80 Mirada 225, is going to see any of that gak.

So, do they make a product for the heads? like to build up the valve-guides etc? Head job in a can? Another thing, did you have to remove so much oil from the crank case to make room for this product to flow in without over filling the crank case? Too much product will begin to build up pressure and start pushing it out thru the worn out rings. And that may be why it was crop-dusting?

Every single car I’ve ever used ER in improved engine performance like a charm, Definitely noticeable

It was designed to be mixed with 4 1/2 quarts of oil in my cases it worked wonders in your case oil ring failure or more . I believe it does more of what it said it can do then other products claiming to do the same.

start driving a tirered, bagged out motor hard... .and it starts burning oil. surprise surprise surprise.....

Question for you, as to what product and how much you think I should use. I have a 1995 Subaru 1.8L 4-CYL boxer Impreza, 177,000 miles. I have 76 and 78 PSI dry compression in #2 and 4 of one head (driver side). This started a few days ago, we noticed while on a highway trip the power was weak and I can hear it missing as the RPMs drop from driving to idle. I don't have overheating, excessive oil consumption (drippy seals, I add a quart about every 900 miles), smoking, or fluids cross contamination. I'm waiting to have a leak down and another dry/wet compression test at a different shop. The first shop only did dry compression and wasn't too bright or helpful. If I end up having a head gasket leak between those two cylinders, what products would I possibly try to mend it? It must not be too bad of a leak, whatever it is, for the compression to build to 78psi dry. The other two good cylinders are 130ish psi. If it ends up being a valve leak, what products and strength could I try to get them clean? After cleaning, I will have valve clearances checked, as it's probably never been done. Thanks!

Slick 50 my friend. Installed junk yard 318,smoked bad,good valve guides and seals. Changed oil at 500mi. after 1st change with additive,again after1500mi. and again after 3000mi. which was a long turnpike cruise from fl.to ny.and back. Coming back only used 1qt.oil and clean exhaust and pipe. Dad swore by Marvel Mystery oil and added 1/2 guart to oil and the rest in the tank in every new Plymouth and dodge he bought!!! Didn't try it with this swap.

I use restore it has always worked for me. My uncle has a Toyota truck modified 350 4 bolt main decked out with NOS. He uses it due to the abuse of the NOS system. He uses it every oil change to keep his compression up. It works . nano lead in the oil goes into the Nicks and scratches if your rings are toast the product won't fix cracked rings or pistons. Sounds like your oiling rings on the bottom of pistons are plugged up and pushing oil into the cylinders sir. Try berrymans b12 chemtool to clean out the sludge in the motor then change oil . run it for 20 minutes at 2000 rpm and change oil right away.

I think the instructions on the bottle say it takes about 1000 miles for the stuff to fully integrate and work. That said, nothing in a can will ever be able to replace a rebuild of an engine. It may postpone the date of the rebuild a little, but only a little.

Are we thinking it loosed he rings up or let the rings more freely to another wear groove. Or did the high rpms allow the process of oil leaking by? Ether way I would say a poor tired motor is giving up its ghost.

A couple of Benjamin’s says he’s got a clogged pcv.