This is probably my first KZfaq comment ever. Since KZfaq was born. This video convinced me to buy a crank puller. You need to get into marketing.

Your advice worked a treat. One of my 1989 Shimano cranks had a damaged thread but eventually came off with your final method. Thanks very much.

I used your bearing puller method on a crank with stripped threads and it worked great after heating up and cooling it down a few times.

WoW.... I've just got that trouble recently and I almost gave up until I saw your inspirational video. Thanks Mr R.J. I will pull the Crank soon with one of your recommendation. God Bless You.

I know this is a really old video, but I just wanted to say thanks. I live on a tiny island and it will take a month for a crank puller to get here, so I replicated your last method exactly (but with a metric bolt haha) and it worked a treat. I'm fixing up a really nice old bike from the 80s that I found in the trash, just for the purposes of learning and fun. I love your approach and your videos have been a gold mine of wisdom, so again, many many thanks.

Nice to have a video for all the folks who didn’t watch “How to remove a crank without stripping the threads.” We needed that...

so glad you ended it with "just buy the tool". It's definitely one worth having.

The additional detail of what size bolts to use for square taper vs octolink is why I watch your videos. Great job. There are lots of people who don't have the resources to spend even $5 for a puller and this will show the pros and cons of each method. As always illuminating.

RJ-this is Steve Pedigo THE Bikeguy in Alpine, Texas!. It has been great seeing someone showing useful techniques for doing bike work. Though I have been doing this for many years, it's always refreshing to see someone else thatcares about the work they do-at least, on video. I've seen so many bike techs that are jaded, and don't care about their customer's bikes. Thank you for taking the time...

For those who don't have the time and patience to saw through the cranks or the bottom bracket, and don't mind damaging things when the crank threads are in a bad state already, thwack the chain rings directly with a hammer (rotating them between blows) and, for the trickier non-drive side crank, place a plank sideways on the ground and rest the inner surface of the crank, near the axle, on the plank - then hammer DOWN on the end of the crank using the plank as a pivot. This has worked well for me and the bottom bracket was still in good working order, amazingly!

Perfect Man. Had stripped out threads & been o there since late 90's. 2×4 & hammer Thanks man 🏁🏁🏁🏁

Thanks, I broke my removal- tool (bent the thread rod and stripped out the thread on the pedal arm bit) and went to brute force, not saving nothing since it's in total seizure. Good stuff.

Hi RJ. I do use the ball-joint tool method but only when the threads are stripped. In fact, I've used all of your methods at one time or another. Again, when the threads are stripped so no need to worry about damage to the chainset. Great advice on supporting, using rags etc. It only takes a few more minutes and can save other parts from being damaged. Not to mention minimising the absorption of impact, (if you Have to), when the BB axle is supported.

Thank you RJ, that video saved the day for me. Somewhere in Oregon, a crank arm with stripped threads is NO LONGER stuck!😊

So, I just recently got the tool to remove the cranks, but, I think this is such great info! Thanks for the amazing tips! 👍

This was really helpful,I was searching for a explained method of over all because my crank's pulley area was strapped off Thank you so much for keep doing videos of retro bikes❤️

Thank God for this video. I've got a crank with threads destroyed and didn't know what to do.

Very helpful tips here! It's nice to have options that don't always focus on beating the heck out of the bike! Thank you :-)

Good ideas. I've got a crank arm with stripped threads and will try these out.

Sometimes you can't just buy the tool.It might be a case of the tool broke or would not work if the threads are stripped out,as happened to me.

Best ad I've ever seen for "just buy the (proper) tool" . My thoughts exactly. Work smarter not harder.

Since April and thanks to your vids I've: fixed 3 kid size bikes (thought 1 kid how to ride); renovated an old mountain bike from the late 90s (strip down every single part except BB); bought and tuned a 2009 Specialized Hard Rock for myself (rode 150km these past 3 weeks); tuned a foldie for my sister and am in the process of renovating 2 more mtbs. THANK YOU!

To me, the vice idea is the nicest. I designed a wooden puller tool for stripped threads with three long and wide headed bolts and three holes in a block, the heads of two bolts on the sides would go under the chainring and the middle bolt would push the bottom bracket axle. Also I have a soviet chainsaw puller tool that my dad lathed into the correct thread and this is now my main crank arm remover. But yet to try that wooden block puller, I think it would be a very cheap solution, although considering time, I saw a cheap puller for 2 bucks online, so essentially it would still be reasonable to get the real thing.

Hi RJ, been a while, I just replaced my crank arm the same way that I change my bearings, for years, never hurts anything unless it falls on my toe, I use the butane torch, all plastic off, heat ,and torn while applying pressure with a large screwdriver, fell off too fast the other day and hit my toe, Take care, trampolines today and tomorrow.☺ FanTom USA

At last a sensible advice for those times when you need to carry out the one job and buying a specific tools is just not worth it. Thanks a lot!!!

This guy is very useful ....every time i got problem on my bike..i go to his channel...

Very smart man. He knows what he is talking about!! This particular video is kinda long, but…. But, but, but if you know nothing about bikes (like myself) this video is extremely educational!! Thanks so much for posting “R J the bike guy!!” Appreciate your videos brother😀🤓

Finally someone preaching sense instead of ruining good parts due to the laziness of getting the right tool. What I like about RJ is that he doesn't just tell you what is right and wrong, he explains rationally why something is right or wrong, so you are left with little doubt. If you have gotten stuck with a used bike whose crank-arms keep coming loose, and even thread glue doesn't keep them on, now you know how they got this way. Continuing to ride the bike home after they have gotten wobbly will finish the job of trashing them.

Learning how to clean my bike feels a lot like learning to be a bike repairman. Anyway these video are very helpful. Thanks. I like how you make everything visible and don't add music or unnecessary production BS like you're a cable tv host, which is popular now for some reason.

Love your ideas! Built a few tools based on your videos including a derailleur straightener but in this case I have a park tool remover for taper but not spline…$15 I’ll just buy it and be done. Thx for the great videos

Best to buy the removal tool or a bicycle-specific tool kit (what I did).I wrote this before I watch RJ's best recommendation at the end. Thanks for creating and uploading this video, RJ.

Tried to saw through an octalink spindle. New blade in the saw, and it just skated over the steel. After 30 mins I had about a 1mm deep groove. Didn’t need the arm, and decided to risk the BB by using the brute force hammer method. It went much quicker 😁 Luckily it survived, still spins smooth, but be prepared to need a new BB if you try this method.

How did you know I needed this video RJ!

Im currently getting an aluminium one off a steel bike using caustic soda. It’s super destructive and a bit dangerous, but works if you’re desperate. I’ve gotten a stuck quill stem out this way, aluminium sometimes chemically bonds to steel, but it melts in caustic soda where steel is not too bothered by it

if you have used one of the methods that damages the interface, low strength threadlock can be used to fill the gaps so it seats firmly, and makes no difference when you next go to remove the crank with the tool.

thanks, you have no idea how many times you help me out

I don't have a vice like you show at 8:00, so instead I drilled a 3/8" hole in a piece of 2x4, put a long 3/8" bolt through the hole, and bolted it onto the 2x4. This worked well as a support for the bottom bracket spindle and enabled me to pound off the drive-side crank. Victory at last, I've been wrestling with this crank for weeks!

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Thank you for being so thorough! Excellent video!

If you're just trying to get the arm off for say a pedal assist for certain sensors take off the outer bolt, make sure there's no plastic orings or retaining caps in the spindle and use a butane torch to the bottom of the arm and spindle and use pressure on the arm like pushing with a screwdriver or tapping at the base of the arm and for me it popped right off. I've had to do it twice on different bikes. And no hitting hard enough to do damage. It mostly just popped off with pushing lightly at the base when it got warm enough.

Great video he goes through every jimyrig solution one after the other.

I had one with damaged threads no access to a 3 leg puller but a small propane blow torch. As long as your prepared to re-grease the bottom bracket heat the crank up and a tap with a hammer and off it will come....I have the correct puller ..plenty good ideas from RJ !

I have that problem, I'll try. Many many thanks. Best regards from Italy.

Great video. I’ve got the Parktool puller and never looked back. 🇬🇧

Stripped crank-puller-mount threads are the common problem in used bicycles that people want working again where "the tool" will not work. Cutting takes just as long, is noisy, creates filings and uses up cutoff wheels. I like the bearing puller (triple-hook thing), but put a few, light, hammer-taps to help walk the crank off in a parallel motion.

Thank you for this. I'm in the process of trying to rescue a much abused bike that was left out withe the trash. Tying to pull the drive side crank to replace the chain rings and it's jammed so tight my crank extractor just pulled the threads out. I think I'll be trying the gear puller, more affordable than I feared. But you have given me options as well.

These videos have saved my bike at least once.

I love you very authentic, down and dirty, advice. I spent much time looking at rich kids in lycra giving their methods. You show the option! Great work!

So helpful. Thank you again for your tremendous videos.

RJ I have benefited from many of your videos for quite some time, Just wanted to add one point about using a gear puller. In my area Southern CA - San Diego my local auto parts stores Orielly AKA Kragan and Auto Zone have gear pullers in their free tool rental program. Basically you put up a deposit equal to the price of the tool, use it, return it and get a full refund. In general what I do when I have a challenge with one of my bikes, #1 get the right tool for the job, if the tool wont work or it is one I would not use often I watch RJ the bike guy to learn how to make my own version of the tool and go from there

I bought the tool. But if your a type that doesn’t have the money to spend on tools . Your method in removing the cranks works. Thanks for sharing your video.

Great information and organized. Thank you

hail RJ, thankyou so much for the tips!

Great vid. I always use a correct puller however half the time it strips the treads....so then it's three prong or hack saw. I avoid the problem in the future by using never sieze on reassyembly.

Hi RJ, I know you've made videos on using a crank tool. All I can add is not to rush the job when using one. It's very easy to damage the threads on the crank (a lesson I learned the hard way). Interesting to see ways of how NOT to remove a crank.

I've used the tie rod tool w/o issues but later I did buy the Park tool & I like how its the perfect length to turn w/o running into the pedals. I never thought I'd do much bike work but I am really getting into it lately. Just ordered another sealed BB for another bike today!

Nice job... with all your ways of getting it done or unrecommended methods...

Thank you, you saved me time & money!

Thank you so much. Tried to work out for 30 minutes until saw this video.

Thanks! Rj TBG to the rescue again! Well what happened to me was I had some schwinn alu pedals for 3 summer seasons only, and used as a commute bike only. As per usual when pedals brake often it is the bolt inside. So it brakes I unscrew it(arm side not crank). I Use a spare plastic pedal. I think it had a different thread size it went in normal I thought there was too much resistance. So yep complete thread damage. I own a cheap screw in puller tool but it useless at this point. First time I've fixed this aspect of bicycle repair jobs. The bike was free and it needs the bottom bracket serviced/replaced anyway loose a d knocking noise. The bike was free found in a ditch in disrepair so gotta lol about that! It's sad but a free kinda sad.

Thanks for showing me at this rate is time to just have the tool. Great options in a pinch, did it one before many years ago in my youth... With kids really into biking, I appreciate you taking the could hours to rehash everything to just give up the 15bucks, even if I am cheap!

Great video, i fitted a UN300 bb and then put my drive side chainset on but forgotten that it was bent so i wanted to remove again, the thread went on my crank puller so the srive side is stuck, as long as i can remove it, as you say i dont want to damge the BB, ut doesn't matter if the chainset gets damaged because I will be putting a new one on. Thank you.

'Just buy a crankpuller', my option of choice but crankpuller' for early 80's T.A. Specialities with an inner thread of 23mm are very hard to find. I'm convinced now that using the 3-armed automotive puller will work.

+1 "just buy a crank puller". Cheap versus potentially trashing the whole bicycle frame!

A while ago i was faced with a cheap steel crankset with stripped treads n no way 2 get it off, easy fix was hit it with the blow torch n it fell off in 1 tap!

I have an old Roadmaster Granite Peak 24 18-speed mountain bike. I had to use a ratchet with a size 9/16 extension to remove the bolt

got the same problem with non drive side, I found more compact version Windshield Wiper Arm Puller there is a several vertions with thinn grab where is a little space between arm and shell

I might have to give the 3 jaw puller a try.

Excellent period of instruction! Informative and easy to comprehend. Always a good idea to have a plan "B"! I especially appreciate the non recommended methods, and why they're not a good idea. Kinda funny though, that all the videos you've put out, people apparently don't reference your channel and see the multitude of topics you've covered. Actually, it's scary and sad. Anyway, great job, as usual, and thank you!

Lots of good tips to not hurt your bike. Best quote: ' the operation was a success, but the patients dead' 😂

My crank on one side came off easy, but the other side stripped out. I used the Dremel tool method and it cut the aluminum easy and in 10 minutes I had the crank off and it came off before the cutter came in contact with the square crank arm.

I’m gonna buy the tool.

Good idea to put it in a vice to isolate the impacts away from the frame. I was worried about damaging my aluminum frame

I was think of Scotty Kilmer when I hear you speak...and it tickles me

for rad runner + i used the puller on the drive side. cracked loose the tool but it woudnt come off except a little so i went on other side loosened the ring with the wire plug connected to it loosned it the other side came off now you twist off the the exposed threads with your fingers until both sides fall off completely. i did it this way because i bought the wrong type of crank puller set mine was tapered i bought oct.

Hey RJ. Great video, at 8:00 put the crank arm in the vice and tap the spindle out of the crank arm. Much better way. Thx

I bought the Park Tool twenty years ago for cheap. My estimate is it will last forever at the rate I use it. Yes, it will outlast mankind.

Thank you dor the best toturial

I have the correct tool but I got a second hand bike where the thread on the chainset for the crank extractor tool had been stripped by the previous owner. Loosening the bolt and taking it out for a ride worked great for me.

Stuck or squeaking square tapered BBs are the biggest pain in the ass I have ever experienced with my bikes. Thank god for Hollowtech. It's the best thing that happened to cycling in ages, maybe ever.

I was just waiting for him to say “Endless. Money Pits.” Throughout the video 😂

A retro 14mm crank bolt head (unrimmed) is also the perfect octalink adapter if you have a puller but no adapter, drop the bolt in threads to the inside.

Btw, there are dust caps for the crank bolts that double as crankpullers. My BLB Super Pista's have them.

Good guidance 👍🏾

Thanks for your help and info it's a great help thanks!!

Great video! Great channel! Goody goody gumdrops!

THANK YOU very helpful

What I realised after watching the video, is that I had a brand new crank remover tool in my shed. I think I bought it a few years ago for 5 or so euro wihout even really thinking about it, it was in the bike section and looked pretty neat so I just took. What a stroke of good luck I might say.

I’d like to see a video on grease fittings/injection on rear wheels: pros/cons, how to do it properly etc

Speaking from experience: The pickle fork is too wide. It just cuts into the crank arm without applying any outward pressure. On my project (the threads are stripped so I'm scrapping the cranks anyway) the back of the crank arms are beveled, so gear pullers spread out and fall right off. My next option is a pitman arm puller, which is like a gear puller with the arms built into the base rather than pivoting, so they can't spread. That would work, but I don't already have one and it would cost as much or more than a new bottom bracket, I think the hacksaw is the best answer.

Thank you so much!!! What I didn't know I didn't know, now I know. Don't have a crank puller but was able to knock of my crank arm cleanly, flat-head and hammer along the 4 points. I.g. Airforce_Voyager.

Definitely worth being able to do it easily than struggling for hours

Wish you would SHOW and talk briefly about the type of bike you're working on....where MADE, construction, year, $$ on used market, tire size, etc. Thanks. Good stuff!

I may haveto buy one only if I can find a 32 or 22 crank kit to swap out my Huffy parkside sprocket

I'm looking to refurbish some early 70's Schwinns - would I still use a standard crank puller on that? Just found your channel today, excellent excellent work!

On the leftside crank arm you can maybe used a two arm wheel fuller...there are 3 arm wheel fuller that are designed to be easily converted to 2 arm

Definitely buy the Shimano tool if you can. Really worth the money

After watching this, I ended up just buying the tool from park tools on eBay. That sure was fun to watch some of the barbaric ways to remove the cranks, lol. Thanks, RJ!

I have done pretty much every method described in the video. If you don't have the crank puller or treads are stripped on the crank, I find the best method for a LEFT crank is using the "pickle fork" auto ball joint remover. Never use the "pickle fork" tool to remove the right crank because you WILL bend the chainrings. If you don't have the "pickle fork" tool then hammer out both sides using a metal bar as shown at 8:30. Good video! ... Save yourself the suffering and buy the tool already ...

I'm in this situation right now. I always used the proper removal tool but stripped the inner crank threads when I previously reinstalled the crank because the crank bolt washer was slightly cocked and sheared half the threads off. When I just tried to remove the crank to replace a chainring I found this out. I tried several non-destructive methods. First I tried to use plumber's tape to see if that would allow the removal tool to sufficiently bite into the crank threads, but that failed. Then I tried a 3" 2/3 jaw puller in both 2 and 3 jaw mode and all that it managed to do was chip off tiny parts of the crank from the inner side as the crank is rounded near the center and there's really nothing to grab onto. I'm hoping to be able to smooth out the gashes on that side with a rotary tool and that this didn't damage the crank structurally. Meantime I ordered an M22x1.00 tap set to see if I can repair and restore the inner crank threads so I can use a removal tool. My guess is that there's not enough metal left for that to be possible, but it's worth a try. M22 threaded bores are common on cars so I could always use them on that if I ever damage any. I also came upon a special crank removal tool made by Unior, (Square Taper Crank Puller - 1662/4), that has a hard tapered outer thread that digs into the crank where the threads were stripped, effectively retapping them and giving enough grip to then remove the crank. It's just over $20 and I'll probably buy it to make removal easier in the future if I'm unable to restore the crank threads. But one of the solutions in this video also occurred to me, to punch out the crank from the other side but by first protecting the spindle from movement so that the bottom bracket isn't damaged. I don't have a bench vise but I thought that resting whatever I used to protect the spindle against an anvil, which I do have, would accomplish the same thing. I figure that an impact socket of the right size would do the trick and its flat ends would prevent slippage. No way would I use a pickle fork let alone grind the crank out. It's over 20 years old and not that easy to replace affordably, and if I can save it and hopefully the bottom bracket, that would be ideal. But I will need that special removal tool for future removal, if I can't restore the crank threads. Lots of potential solutions that won't ruin the crank and/or bottom bracket.