Christmas 🎄 clamping, yes! Clamp the Christmas tree to the floor, clamp grandma to the chair, clamp the kids to the beanbags in front of the TV, clamp your beer to the turkey etc etc

Right? I found this video tedious. Watch Stumpy Nubs and/or Tamar 3x3 make a shooting board and be amazed.

Why not 1 square and two clamps? Holy moly. How does this guy get anything done?

You have your reasoning upside down... Letting the center bow up allows the middle of the plane (the widest part) always make square contact against the board. Squared contact means the plane is always 90⁰ to the shooting board. If it were cupped in, then only the narrow ends of the plane would make contact at the sole of the plane while the middle tilts down into the cup... this would also make the plane sole tilt away from the shooting board, giving you a non-squared board which would be nearly useless.

Good tip, but pre drilling should take care of that too

Because I want my rabate to be bigger than my paln not right at my plane

Merry christmas

Merry christmas

Glad it liked it.

Thank you for watching. Merry Christmas

Thank you for supporting us. Merry Christmas

If you make boxes its a MUST

Glad you like it! Its very useful

Yes but I tried your last time I was at your shop and it was like 13 degrees off!!!!!!

@@RobCosmanWoodworking That’s because you are half a bubble off plumb!!! 😂🤣😂

How did it turn out?

Glad you liked it! Luther said we should add some Heavy Metal music to the background?????

Awesome. Glad you like it. Thanks for commenting

Glad you liked it....in fact please push the like button

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Already had, Rob.

Merry Christmas to you

Same to you Glen

Thats what I am here to do !!!!! Merry Christmas

Glad you like it!

Back at you

Send us a pic when you get it done

You bet

Yes but this one is so cute!

Great. What video should we do next?

@@RobCosmanWoodworking it would be very interesting to see how you set the teeth on your dovetail saw

Merry Christmas to you

You bet

Thanks

Most folks use way more glue than is neccessary!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Ooh-rah. Merry Christmas to all

Send me a pic

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Will do. Probably won't look like yours.

@@RobCosmanWoodworking I tried to send you a picture from the contact us feature on your website but couldn't attach a picture. I need an email address to send it.

Welcome to to Cosman channel. Let us help you take your woodworking to the next level

I show how to wrap handles on my tips and tricks video

Same to you

Merry Christmas to you

Happy holidays! Let me know how it turns out

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Will do good Sir.

Perfect....and that should look good too

@@RobCosmanWoodworking you say the mdf doesn't need to be more than a half inch, but if I glue lam two half inch pieces together will that hurt? Also I have some 1/4" cherry scraps I could use in place of Baltic birch plywood, would that be ok? Lemme know what you think please. Thanks!

@@johnburens3395 I wouldn’t make it 1” thick, that would be clumsy looking. As for the scraps, plywood is better because it is more stable, and less prone to warping the MDF.

@@RobCosmanWoodworking got it, Thanks! Btw, guess who got his hands on some hockey tape? I think that tip might have created a monster! Hahahaha

Now you can build one

Just use aaw to make a rough cut then pul out your plane and plane your rough cut to your line

Merry Christmas to you

I see I'm two years late on answering what may help you fit small box miter pieces that fit prefect. I cannot not use my power miter saw for these small cuts, first it's dangerous or it splinters thin trim cuts. I cut close to my miter cut mark with a bandsaw and finish the miter using my tabletop disc sander using the sliding miter gauge.

Oh and by the way..... I started wrapping my clamps with stick tape, OMG, that is a game changer big time!!!

Yes it amazing ....

Let me know what you think once you watch it

@@RobCosmanWoodworking absolutely!

The miter is on the same side as the fence and supports the length of the board, so it won't twist, bind and kickback.

I will tell Luther, but I think Google has an easy conversion tool too

When I put the fence at the end of th eboard (I use to do that) I notice that my students would push the plane off the board caausing th eplne to dive off the end and mess up th ecut so I moved the fence back so that your plane stays on th eramps even after the cut

Or, just sprinkle on a little regular table salt.. it dissolves in the water based glue, but the grit lasts long enough to help prevent slipping.

I don’t like the salt method as if you do too much or grab a salt shaker with salt clumps in it the clump may not desolve. I like my nail method

@@RobCosmanWoodworking True - It really depends on how the salt is kept (I store mine in a mason jar, and just a tiny pinch when needed in a strategic spot or two depending on length of glue joint.. so, no clumps.. I do it by feel... as Ive discovered, I can also feel plane chatter - have to since I can't hear it... ) I'll have to watch this when the subtitles kick in on the video and see how your nail method goes... Kind of sucks having to wait 3 - 4 - 12 - 48 hours until auto generated subtitles kick in, but one's gotta do what one's gotta do... ... and By the way, I truly appreciate your videos on planes - I found an ancient Miller's Falls No 9 plane in the cellar, all rusted up.. after watching several of your plane tune-ups , reviews, etc, I dug it out and working at restoring it.. luckily the sole , after sanding the rust off, was nice and flat (still needs some sanding to work out some rust pits) , and got it nicely tuned, (modified the depth adjuster yoke a bit with some 3mm flat washers to reduce wobble) , and even in its unfinished state (needs some final sharpening, sanding, etc) it has turned into the nicest plane I have ever used (not that I ever used very many) with the guidance of your recent videos, I finally understood several parts of that plane that I was clueless about... so, Thanks a ton, and Happy Christmas!

If the ramp the plane is on hetd slightly convex( a belly or dip) then what will happen is that the front and back of the plane will be touching however the middle of the plane will not be touching since it’s convex . So as you push from the middle of the plane as the plane is sideways you will force the middle of the plane down into this convex belly just throwing it out of Square. Inducing a very slight hump in the shooting board prevent this from happening

I dont know Rob's particular reasons for not using a blade guard, but I'll say a few things I know about the subject. The biggest thing is that he does have a riving knife installed, and a riving knife is arguably the most important safety feature on a table saw. The riving knife pretty much eliminates the possibility of major kickback. Kickback is dangerous enough since it throws wood at you at a million miles per hour, but kickback can also pull your hand into the blade unexpectedly. Without kickback, the only reason your body will touch the blade is if you are being negligent. With normal saw blades and standard types of cuts, a riving knife will do this without any downsides whatsoever. Good news for most blade guards is that they are designed in a way that automatically also includes a riving knife. Second point is that Rob is using a SawStop table saw, so hypothetically if his hand touches the blade then the blade will retract before it does significant bodily damage. Third point is that a blade guard obstructs vision of the blade, which isn't a safety concern as much as it is bad for viewers of the video who can't see what is happening and also potentially bad for precisely lining up cuts. Final reason off the top of my head (and perhaps the biggest reason) is that a typical blade guard prevents you from making certain cuts, or at least gets in the way. The standard blade guard on most consumer level machines is essentially a plastic hood which hinges off the top of the riving knife. You cannot make cuts unless your cut goes full depth through the wood, or else the uncut portion of the wood will bump on the riving knife extension. This isn't an issue for a blade guard which comes down from above attached to a metal arm or something, but this type of guard not standard. Or if you are using sleds, then the blade guard can get in the way. The idea of having a blade guard that you sometimes need to take off in order to do the type of cut that you want to do means that most people just won't ever put it on. And depending on the shop and operator, time is money. Are these reasons good excuses to choose not to ever use a blade guard? Depends who you ask. It would be nice to say that you should be so diligent about safety that you will always use every single possible safety device, but for some people the perceived risk just isn't high enough to bother using all of the equipment. Usually they're right, sometimes they're wrong. I have never used a table saw blade guard, I don't see it as being that important. I will not use a table saw without a riving knife unless I absolutely have to, and thankfully there isn't much reason not to. If I did, then I would be much more diligent with push sticks and body positioning. It might be worth noting that some people might not use a blade guard because they just think it is uncool. I don't think this is a good reason. But for some people, it might be the reason.

I thought the same when I saw how he reaches over the blade to grab the piece

Whichever plane you like, but I recommend at least a 5-1/2 (5 if you have small hands), and nothing smaller. I don’t like single use planes for frequent operations.

@@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks Rob for the insight.