I was wondering if there are any other steps taken or modified for a low angle jack. I dont think there would be, but im very new to this world.

I wanted a Lie-Nielsen but couldn’t justify it w/my budget so I bought a WoodRiver #6. It’s well made. Not an LN but for the price difference (savings) I’m pleased. Got the WR on sale, 257 USD delivered.

Glad it was helpful!

Thats our intent, to stand out from the crowd also having a cameraman not just a camera on a tripod

Of course, that goes for Western Oregon. If you’re in Michigan or Florida you need to watch out in the summer. For us, it’s the winter. If you’re in Brazil, good luck.

Luther lives in rainy Seattle and has an unheated workshop and does the same

I knew you needed it so I made it !!!!!!

Good idea

lol

What a great story, keep working and keep imrpoving. Luther is going to add a galery to the website soon

Many thanks!

You bet

Happy bonding

Same to you....

Thanks for watching and YOU have a Merry Christmas

yes that was planely said !!!! Merry Christmas

Great job. I recommend watching our entire series on hand plane basics

Merry Christmas to you

Glad you found it useful

Merry christmas

I am always looking how to get the most out of the tool

keep watch and we will keep making them. What video do you want us to make next?

@@RobCosmanWoodworking how about a box joint video? I made a jig that works on the table saw with a sled but I would like to try them with a back saw so I can use my cosman fret saw. Is this even possible? Thanks! John

@@RobCosmanWoodworking maybe a video showing you making a wedged tenon.

Glad its helpful. Good luck with your new plane

Sharpening is the key skill

Merry Christmas Chief,,,,,,Ooh-Rah

My pleasure!!

you too

What video should we do next?

Happy holidays!

I know this is an old comment but to anyone else who can relate, don’t be worried about sharpening. Whether it’s the plane edge or a chisels secondary and tertiary bevels you’re only ever sharpening a small amount of metal. If you don’t get it right you can just do it again. It’s not that difficult to get a cutting edge even if it’s not up to Cosman standards. Over time you’ll get better and better. Allow it to be fun, don’t stress. Woodworking should be a source of peace not negativity. You have to get to the point where you enjoy the process, not simply because you want a coffee table.

So do I!

Ok, but how fid you like the video?

@@RobCosmanWoodworking A very good tutorial for beginners. Regardless of the brand, these planes are handled in the same way.

Glad it was helpful! Do the prep then watch my howto sharpen video and get your blade all set up

Can you get that plane in the US?

@@scott8351 I have no direct evidence of this, but based on the videos I’ve seen, the Quangsheng 5 1/2 looks identical to the WoodRiver 5 1/2, except for the lever cap not having a logo on the Quangsheng. My suspicion is that they’re the same plane, branding aside.

Love watching his other u-tubes though. Great teacher!

I’ve done up 100’s of these and maybe close to 1000. Haven’t had a sole out of flat (within working tolerance) yet so I assume it is good. They will take it back regardless.

Thanks for watching. What video would you like to see next?

@@RobCosmanWoodworking I'd like to see more on the wood hinges. They intrigue me and I'd like to work them into a project that ordinarily would use a metal hinge.

You can do it too. Sharpening is the key

You guys in OZ must have woodpeckers with steel beaks you wood is so hard!!!!

@@RobCosmanWoodworking you're not wrong there mate. I built my entire house, including weatherboards, out of ironbark. WOuld love to get my hands on some birdseye maple... I might go spoil myself and get some from Carbatec over the coming weeks if they have some in stock...just so as I can test my sharpening skills and plane setting skills lol

Thanks. I was just about to buy a silicone wd40 😅

There is a big difference between 10K and 16 K, Th ejig wont make a difference in edge just a little slowerthan free hand. So my guess is it's stopping at 10K and likely a little bit technique

Could be the highest grit stone you are using, could be the angle you are getting with the jig vs Rob's hand sharpening, could be the chip-breaker clearence back from the iron's edge, or how heavy of a cut you are trying to take, or the opening of the mouth of your plane. Maybe the geometry of the edge of your iron doesn't have any camber/curve with the jig. Are you hitting the shaving straight on or with the plane slightly canted/angled to the side? Try pulling the blade all the way in, like Rob did in this video, and only advancing it just a partial hair at a time. Keep practicing. Sooner or later, something will fall into place. Pay attention to the feel and sounds of what is going on, both when sharpening and when planing. When it is just right, try to repeat those feels and sounds.

Omg brilliant, did not know about charcoal briquettes, thank you. Any suggestions how to protect machinery, like table saw and sliding compund mitre saw? Table saw not here yet but I dont want to ruin it when it arrives, like mitre saw, 2 sliders on it are getting surface rust on exposed part after a year and wd40 aint helping. I will insulate the roof next spring but I am not sure that alone will be a complete solution.

@@bluewanderer9903 Since I have used charcoal around my shop there hasn't been any rust on my equipment. Few times during the year I will clean all machinery and use paste wax on surfaces. Good Luck

@@bluewanderer9903 Forgot this, INSULATE, walls, ceiling, and I also have platform over concrete floor that is insulated. Again good luck

@@williamshaffer2562 good to hear that it can be done, thanks

Love the charcoal brickets idea. How often do you change them out

Go to our site, robcosman.com, check out the PHP and read all the info there.

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks!

No need to polish the sole. If you get it brand new and its not within tolerance take it back. If howeverits beyond retrhn adhrere some 150,180 and 200 snad paper to a knowe flat surface (MDF or table saw for example) then with even pressure sand the bottom flat through the different grits

A Lie Nielson, Veritas or Woodriver (Woodriver maybe) should never need their soles flattened out of the box. If the sole isn't perfectly flat, you are well with your rights to send it back - and you should!

Jonathan Rutherford , in Germany I am lucky enough to have Lie Nielsen and Veritas planes. Nowadays it is almost impossible to buy new ones in Europe, so I won’t send them back. I will polish them to flatness.

@@spagati That's a bummer they weren't flat, and sending them back is so difficult. Best of luck with the flattening!

He sells the wax stick on his website.

Thanks, you too! 60 degrees

I do this prep on all my planes

I question how mechanically unskilled a woodworker would have to be to FUBAR their plane putting a light chamfer on the edge with a mill file.

I would caution anyone who can’t be trusted to use a file to keep their hands away from any planes unless an adult is in the shop supervising them. And who says that any plane “shouldn’t” need fine tuning? What do they base that opinion on? The naive and reprehensible belief that if one has the money to buy the best tools they ought to be able to skip learning the basics of evaluating their condition and optimizing them and maintaining them for use as a craftsman? And what kind of trust-fund baby buys a Lie Nielsen hand plane before he’s even acquired the skills necessary to use a $7 mill file? That’s like giving a kid a Lamborghini for his 16th birthday before he’s even learned how to check the oil, change a tire or parallel park! And I know what you’re thinking: “We’re rich! He can just pay the valet to park it and call the dealership to send someone out with a new tire when necessary. We paid for the extended warranty too, so if he runs it out of oil we ‘shouldn’t have to’ worry about anything.” But with that mindset why even bother having woodworking tools at all? Just buy the finest furniture available in Beverly Hills and leave all that work to the working class? Those poor guys have to pay their dues with years of apprenticeship and blood and sweat. They can’t just pull out their American Express card and buy the status of a highly skilled and experienced craftsman.

Well, except for the return it to the store part, I imagine it is pretty much the same, basically. If the bottom is out of flat, spray adhesive some 120-220 grit sand paper to a true flat surface (glass, marble/granite, tablesaw bed, etc...) and make them flat again, then up to 400 grit if you wish, then file the edges, toe, and heal. If Stanley, then you have frog screws instead of pins, and a press-formed chip-breaker instead of one that resembles another iron. There are many channels out there with restoration videos, and some go as far as driving out retaining pins and replacing the Japanning (black paint like finish) as well. Have fun with it, and remember to oil or wax any metal that is not painted if your shop is not 100% climate controlled.

@@thomasarussellsr thanks!

I totally agree

Do you feather the edges of your iron like he says in his sharpening video?

@@CarlYota I do, what I see are not plane tracks from the edge digging in.

A No. 5-1/2 Jack

Rob does this prep to all planes including Lie Nielsen. People in the comments will tell you that you don’t have to do this with LN but you also don’t have to do it with WoodRiver. It depends how picky you are. Some people upgrade their cars. Most people don’t. Is LN going to have better tolerances? Probably. Does that mean it will work like a Cosman tuned WoodRiver right out of the box? No. Will it be easier to tune up? Perhaps but there is still individual variance in each tool maybe less variance the more money you spend. Is it worth an extra $125? Probably makes no difference over the course of your life. Just don’t make the mistake of thinking the LN is perfect out of the box, or that the WoodRiver is unusable out of the box. Neither is correct. Both are useable out of the box and both need work to get to Cosman standards.

Oh, I got your ajustar and plane sock too. You should have a plug about your ajustar.

Yes do it and you will see some improvement

As Rob says in the video, this "setup"-procedure turns out the last 2 perCent of the plane's performance. I think the procedure helps as well to make the plane work stabile and keeping the settings even better (longer time). For example the blade naturally "likes" the chip-breaker to be definitlely straight at its edge. And removing the sharp edges on the body - improves the handling sigificantly: Maybe just that difference makes more then 2% improving! I am waiting for delivery of my WR 51/2 (to germany, OMG) and am looking foward to these steps of setup. Until now i am only used to handle classical wooden planes.

Not Rob, but there isn’t anything magical about the number 300 (or 1,000, or 16,000) for the grit. His 30-second sharpening method doesn’t even use that side of the stone.