If you liked this video check out Robs Stopped Dado video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/grulYNpntqmbiIE.html

Rob - it’s obvious that you have a LOT of in person experience teaching. I always know that I can count on one of your videos to answer my questions … especially the ones I haven’t even thought of yet. Thank you for your content. Showing how to change the SawStop cartridge was great.

Extremely clear video demonstrating a variety of methods to cut dados. Great tips for individuals wishing to use hand tools plus superb explanations on using a table saw and dado stack arrangement. The content showing close up shots of fitting and testing the dado stack width of cut using shims was most informative as too were the safety tips when using such an approach. As always, many thanks to TEAM Cosman for providing such useful and helpful woodworking information-it makes such a difference to our enjoyment and understanding of the craft!!

Thank you Rob for talking about “how” to set up a dado blade using shim’s. That part is usually overlooked. I never thought about spinning the shim as you spoke of, I will definitely give that a try. For me, I always install to many shims for the first test cut. Then test fit my shelf and put some of the shims in the gap. When I get the fit I like I simply leave those shims out. I’ve been lucky to always get the fit I want on my second test fit.

Hello Rob & all, Thank you for all of the teaching you offer! I have learned a lot from your videos, particularly how to resolve difficulties that occur with the wood. Not all things go as planned so corrections & compensations for errors must be made. Thanks for demonstrating how to make those corrections. Allen Koopman

Putting shim on before chipper is a great tip.

the aux fence on the miter is also good for preventing tear-out at the end of the dado. Not an issue when you've got a rabbet that will clean it up, but if you don't, the aux fence helps. I also like to use a block or something like the gripper to push down over the blade area to help with depth of cut. Awesome tutorial, and the change in sound of the tablesaw with the dado stack can be quite intimidating.

Thank you for showing how to install the dado blade. Very helpful for us beginners.

If you're looking for a good dado set, I can't recommend the Freud Dial-A-Width set enough. It's expensive, but worth every penny. There are no shims to mess around with or lose. You just select the proper chippers to get close, then turn a dial to increase the width in increments of .004. It's really nice.

Nice clear, thank you.

I’ve been cutting dados for a long time but I always pick up something new even though I think I know it all about the procedure or equipment. This time I got two helpful hints. One was the tip on placing shims to avoid arbor damage to them and the second relieved my guilt of not being sure if the chippers need to be staggered in a certain way. It’s not boring to watch your videos even if you think you know it all because your method is entertaining as well as informative. you’ve proven that time after time. At 79 YOA I just got a little better at woodworking today. Thanks for that.

I really like your idea of using a router plane to clean out the finished dado!

Thank you Rob for the excellent instruction. Cheers! 🙂

Glad I watched this I thought it was just a matter of grabbing the whole stack and tightening. Didn't know they're spacers and openings that have to be in a specific spot. Thanks Mr Cosman!

Excellent explanation of the finer points of dados.

Always very informative Rob. You have a knack to K.I.S.S. (Keep it simple stupid) I have a FS Tool dado set that Ive had for years. Only have sharpened it once. If you're going to get a dado set, get a good one!

Dado sets are shunned here in the UK, to the point where most table saws don't have arbours long enough to hold them. I tend to run two cuts with the table saw, then it's chisel & router plane to remove the waste.

I was fortunate to have a previous Dewalt dado set. The current one is 8-1/8” instead of the 8” Even. The bottom is perfectly square and flat. But like you said, maybe not along the whole dado. Having a router plane really helps. Mine is an old Stanley 71, but still very useful. My SawStop PCS rocks!

Great video as always. I use a Freud Dial-a-Width Dado stack which eliminates the need for the shims. You still have to remove or loosen the retaining nut, but then you can dial the blades to the desired width. I've used it for years and it works great. Thanks for posting another informative video, Rob.

When it comes to using a stacked dado set, I only use the two outer blades and maybe one chipper blade. The two outer blades when put together is 1/4". Even if I am cutting a 3/4" dado, I only use the two outer blades. Anything less than 1/4", I use a single blade with flat bottom grind. To get the perfect size dado, I use a DIY kerf maker. I have seen the expensive store bought, other DIY kerf makers. The one I use is from ISBI - I Simply Build It. It is by far the easiest to make and use. I get perfect size dados every time. I don't have to mess with any shims, nor do I have to to do any test cuts.

I enjoyed the extra tips on a power tool.

You always seems to put out a timely video for when I am doing a project. Building a couple chest of drawers for my shop...many dados in my future. Thanks for the vid!

thanks

Woodpecker has a great system to make dado's and it is easy to use. I have started using it and I can make any size dado and I am not restricted to the size of the dado set or the size of the arbor on the saw. It is mounted to the rail.

This is very helpful. Thank you!

Thanks Rob

Real nice video Rob, thanks. Just wanted to add another reason for finishing dado depth with a router plane. A lot of table saw tops (like mine) actually sag front to back in the center. This can cause dado depth variation and give you problems when assembling your project. If off enough, you won't be able to insert a panel into a dado and draw it tight at one or both ends (it can even rock back and forth in some cases)...

My 'cheapie' set doesn't have reliefs, but the gullets are deep enough. The enclosed directions say to always put a particular shim against the outer blades, so spray adhesive is useful. Also, my current tabletop saw has a short arbor (ala European standards - they don't like dado blades) so the most I can shoehorn on there is 5/8 worth and still have any hope of tightening the nut.

A low cost and simple method of keeping the cut piece from lifting during cutting, especially with negative hook blades, is to make a push block to assist holding board downward or the use of a feather board attached to the fence.

Not sure if there’s been a change in the design of dado stacks over time, or if different manufacturers have different philosophies, but I just purchased a Pro Dado Stack from Freud and I’m handling it and becoming acquainted with the parts while watching your video. You seem to be installing your cutting blades with the teeth protruding ‘away’ from the inside of the stack. Then, later you’re measuring the width of your dado across these protruding teeth. My cutting blades are printed with ‘This side out’ on them and the teeth protrude ‘into’ the interior of the stack. If I lay my stack on the table, the entire cutting blade sits flush with the table top. Freud’s literature claims that my dado will be of uniform depth across the bottom; no mention of horns. Time will tell. I’ll be firing up the table saw here soon.

Have you tried magnetic shims? Also, you got me thinking and I'm wondering if you put a drop of oil on the shim and pressed against the blade or chipper if it would help hold it in place. Good video.

Great video!

Everything in this video is true. Here’s what I wanna add. As a person who almost lost a thumb because I pushed over the blade, bare hand, paused and the wood flew out of my hand and tossed my hand onto the blade. I was lucky. Lost a tiny bit of skin. Had a big bandage for awhile and my wife said sawstop time. That said. Any safety equipment you can afford. Hey. Use grippers. Magswitches. Jess’ems. Whatever. At this stage my work flow is Cmt blades. And my Jess’em table saw guides. It’s extra. But it’s nice. Keeps you straight. Against the fence. And if it goes flying. Unless you just started the cut, you’ll be okay. Doesn’t mean all the time. Thing happen. But whatever you need to be safe. Do it.

Well done, Rob. Thank you for showing the cartridge changeout. I did my first a few months ago. No problem. I was surprised there was no mention of dado planes, in their great variety. Hand saw and chisel? How Medieval! 😂 Give me a Stanley 39, 45, 46, 50, 55, ad naseum. Of course, you have to size your stock to fit the cutter, vs sizing the dado stack to fit the stock. 😂 Thank you for all you do!

Rob, if you have only a few dados or grooves to make, instead of breaking out the stack, check out the kerf-maker. Let’s you use a single blade. Works great! Also, just to be a wise guy, we didn’t see you check the blade to cartridge spacing!!

Rob cosman doesn't sleep.... he waits!

Luuuuuuuuuuuuthurrrrrrrrrrrrr.... Noah loves youuuuuuuuuuuuu

It’s a lot easier to change blades if you take minute and raise the arbor all the way up.

Great video as always, thank you Rob. One question. Is there a benefit to cutting the dado narrow and cutting rabbets on the top and bottom of the mating piece? For example, if I'm using a 3/4" board for a shelf, is there a benefit to cutting a 3/8" wide dado and then cut 3/16" rabbets on the top and bottom of the shelf? Or is that just more work? Thank you as always sir.

The worst thing about making a dado with a router is the width issue. A common board that's sold as one inch thick is slightly under 3/4" thick. A 3/4" bit makes a dado that isn't a tight fit for the board. Plywood is usually metric sized, 6mm, 12mm, 18mm instead of 1, 2, 3 quarters of an inch. This leaves you with three choices; purchase special undersize bits for making dados, resize larger stock to match the router bit size, or use a smaller bit and make multiple passes to size the width of the dado.

I’ve never used a data stack, but wouldn’t it be easier to raise the blade to its max height when adding blades and chippers?

Your large Sawstop table saw won't have any issue with the chipper teeth located near each other. Lighter duty saws may not be happy with a set of teeth cutting the full width of the dado at one bite. Spreading out the chipper blade teeth can alleviate this issue.

I would suggest SawStop owners consider their selection of a dado set very carefully. You need to conform to the stopping capacity of the brake cartridge. Read your manual.

Wouldn’t be better to stack/change the blades with the arbor position raised to the maximum?

Great video! When you said, "turn it this way or clockwise, the whole thing", did you mean the blade and chipper which is intended to also turn the arbor? By clockwise I'm guessing you mean as viewed from the nut side as opposed to the motor side because the video shows the blade turning the opposite way it spins to cut wood. Were you trying to keep the shim from turning when you turned the blade? I'm guessing that's what you did to "thread" the shim onto the arbor. Or were you turning the blade chipper and shim on the non-turning arbor? Thanks.

On completely different subject, but one that’s sure to get people talking….. There is a lot of talk about flattening the back of plane blades, but what about flattening the bevel side so it contacts the frog accurately. If it does not, the blade could rock during a cut. Also, to my mind, the back needs to be flat for maybe 1/4 inch behind the front edge so the chip breaker contacts accurately. Also, would it not be best if the rear of the chip breaker rested on the blade at one point only to prevent it rocking on top of the blade? Discuss…..

If the dado is not too long, I prefer to use my radial arm saw to dado. Anything wider than 10 or so inches then go to the table saw.

Rob - good video but call SawStop support. They do not recommend the Freud Dado Set because it is slightly too big in diameter for the stopping cartridge. Before buying a dado stack everyone who has a SawStop should call SawStop tech support and make sure their choice is safe. Unless Freud has changed the design on their dado stack slightly in the last three years, their stack is not safe on the saw is not according to SawStop.

Another way, which I'm surprised wasn't covered, is to cut the dado on the table saw with a single blade and multiple passes, adjusting the fence each time. This is the only table saw option for table saws that can't take a dado blade such as many European ones, and most(?) smaller contractor's saws, including the SawStop CTS.

I'll stick with my wooden dado planes, so much easier and quick for the odd dado

Dado scare the heck out of me

R.I.P. SysteMatic. 😢

Changing blades suck. After seeing blade & cartridge changes now I'm happy I didn't buy a Saw Stop.

when is the next prime minister election in Canada? Rob is starting to look like Jesus and needs a hair cut!