Rob, thanks to you for teaching me to sharpen my wood working tools so I can do the kind of work you do. My next two projects are a sape'le ladder shelf with bottom cabinet and a maple and sape'le corner shelf 80% hand tools. Having sharp irons ,saws and chisels are the key to any well made projects

Thank you Rob. Wood working vs wood machining; two ways to get to the same or at least very similar result, except for the human satisfaction part. You and your team continue to be a unique blessing to the wood working community world wide.

I especially enjoyed Method #3 using a router plane. I'm going to get my router plane set up like that and make some rabbets! ❤ 💯

Thanks Rob. I always learn something from your videos. Like using the marking gauge to cut the step left by a rabbeting block plane. That was a head slapper for me. I thought...DUH! How come I never thought of that? That really makes short work of the step. You make my day when you release a new video. Thanks again.

Rob, where is the moving fillister plane? That should be #1 for cutting rebates. This can also be used for stopped rebates if you first remove the waste at the start and end of the rebate (otherwise one will plane a curve). Regards from Perth, Derek

Superb video and commentary detailing 4 methods using both hand tools and the table saw to cut a rebate (though and stopped). Extremely useful tips using a variety of appropriate hand planes - the use of the router plane and its fence was particularly insightful as was the your method of checking accuracy(depth of cut and parallel distances) with the marking gauge. One ALWAYS learns new skills and alternative approaches with your videos - explained simply and effectively, backed up with great (close up) camera footage. Most grateful to you ALL for taking time to produce and promote such wonderful content - it is really appreciated!!!

And love the secondary fence for the router plane

Very good Rob

thanks

Great video for cutting a rebate. The power method is fast but is it as accurate as the router plane? I think not if you are fussy and want accuracy. Great video showing all the different ways to cut a rebate. Thank you for sharing. Take care!👍🏻

Great video, Rob👍

What about a plain old rabbet plane? Like the Stanly # 78.

I love to watch you using the planes You make it look so easy and give it a more personal touch compared to using the table saw I really liked the third planer never seen that style before Thanks for the illustration of doing the rabbits Which do you like more, the rabbit or the miter

It's unbelievable how many different tools people invented. That #3 "routery" thingy feels most comfortable to me, as it requires less skill that takes months to develop.

I like restoring old planes which I use. I just bought an old Stanley 190 rabbet plane which has no fence and recently restored a Stanley 71 router plane so this video came in very handy. I've seen others that begin there rabbet towards the far end of the rabbet and slowly work their way back with each pass. You don't do that. Why do you not or why do they? Great channel.

FIRST! Gday hippy Bob

Hey Rob & team, how easy it to align the nicker on a skew-block plane with the edge of blade? I'd be worried that unless it was spot on I'd leave a rough or wispy edge. Is there much advantage in using the nicker as opposed to just using a marking gauge?

I believe ive seen videos where you use a handsaw as your intitial means to get down to your depth and then proceed to clean up with a router plane or shoulder plane or something along those lines. Im actually doing a project and have been using that method for rebates and it seems to work fairly well. Do you find that method to not be as efficient as the ones youre using in this video?

If you were cutting a rebate into a veneered plywood can you cut it using the same methods? What problems might you encounter? How would you cut the rebate in that situation? Thank you. Take care!

When you find that your rebate is stepping out as you deepen the rebate, I believe that's caused by the way you're adjusting the blade. The blade should not be perfectly flush to the inside/cutting edge of the plane, but rather should be protruding slightly. If it's not protruding slightly, it can't cut any relief and get all the way into the corner of the rebate. Paul Sellers covers this is a few different videos including his Fillister Plane video on the Stanley 78 (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/peBmgbBlv7eoqo0.html) as well as one of his videos about the Stanley 92 Bullnose Plane (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a5Z_hq1otbm4ioE.html) with a much better explanation than I can give. When Rob is showing how to press the blade against another plane so it's perfectly flush (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hs9gZ7KSlpeblmw.html), my understanding is that this leads to the stepped/sloped shoulder. Instead, bump it out very slightly on the cutting side of the plane and I think you'll find you get a clean shoulder right off the plane. As a caveat, I'm a novice at best, but I had this very problem cutting a rebate joint recently with my Stanley 78 and bumping the blade out slightly for the next set of cuts did the trick for me. Rob may very well have a good/different reason for keeping the blade flush, so take this with a grain of salt and try some experiments to see how it works for you. The marking gauge trick is a great one I'm going to have to try out next time I misconfigure my rebate plane and end up with a stepped shoulder. The stopped rabbet with a router plane looks pretty handy too.

Would it not be better to stop the blade of the saw before lifting the work piece?? Possibly of damage to the piece plus danger of dropping on the blade sending it flying back into you

How much longer on the Super 51/2??)

Is the hair going to get cut in the intro?

No mention of the fillister plane???

Either cut the hair or grow a beard 😊

Cut the hair man, not improving the look.🇨🇦👍👨‍🦳