Thank you! And you're welcome! :-)

I'm so glad you liked it! I think it makes a huge difference to understand how knitting works. :-)

Thank *you*...and you're welcome! :-)

You're welcome! I'm glad you like my videos and explanations. :-)

I'm so glad you like the video. I remember those early days of short rowing--I did not like having to "trust the pattern" and not know what the heck was going on! :-)

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

You're welcome! Techniques...I got a million of 'em. :-)

I'm so glad you liked it! :-)

I'm glad you liked it! :-)

It's the Criss Cross Shawl www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/criss-cross-8

You absolutely can. If you ask your question (again) in my Ravelry group, it'll be easier to show you/explain how to do that, plus others will be able to see the question/answer and learn from it.

This video explains how to figure out/plan short row substitutions. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jcmJZ7iAl5uYomw.html

That technique doesn't fall into either of these families. It wouldn't be suitable for staggered short row situations, as it would be quite visible. With short row heels, the diagonal line of stacked short rows is visible (and acceptable), so it works fine. This technique borrows from the heel flap heel turn technique of using a slip stitch short row turn, and decreasing across the gap, but compensating for it with an increase, in order to maintain the stitch count. (WIth a heel flap heel turn, the decreases are what form the heel cup.) The W&T, YO, and shadow wrap SRs essentially increase at the turn, and then decrease the extra loop out upon return. This method places the inc next to the dec. It's a special type of SR to be used in a specific set of circumstances.

In every aspect of knitting, there are always multiple ways to get to the same end point. Sometimes that end point is exactly the same for two different processes/techniques. Other times, the result is so similar as to be negligible. The goal is not for someone looking at the result to be able to see the difference, because they all have the same end result goal. What matters is that different processes that can get you to that end goal, and how those processes are executed can make a difference to an individual knitter (they might see a better result in their own work with one vs another, or they might prefer the process of one vs the other, or they might be able to execute one more easily than another, or they might be able to remember one technique more easily than other). Some of the techniques do produce exactly the same result, some do not. Because these techniques are produced in different ways, some are more easily substituted for each other, while others will take a bit of thought/planning to substitute, because they are in different "families" of short rows The pattern might present clues about when to turn in a way that applies to one family of short rows, but not the other.

@@RoxanneRichardson thank you so much for the response. Do you have any video where you show the advantages of using one method over another one? I’m asking because I am knitting dinosaurs for a little boy who loves them. With small objects like that, changes come thick and fast. I have read that wrap and turn, the advantage to that method is, it makes a more flexible, vertical knit. But after studying the different methods, I think for toys I could go with a much simpler method, which I think several methods are simpler than wrap and turn. If you do not have a pro and con video on short rows, that might be a useful future video. I have also discovered that Elizabeth Zimmerman’s method of make one works very well with toys, since those patterns are mostly knit one row, purl one row types. As someone pointed out, the increased stitch appears in the purl row above, and with toys that is perfectly fine.

It is not always an assumption. Sometimes there are good reasons not to pick up the wrap. It's not needed if the wrap is around a RS purl or if done in garter stitch. Sometimes the wraps are functional and decorative. It's always helpful if the designer states to pick up wraps (or specifically says NOT to), so you can't always be sure. If you're still unsure about what to do, you can email the designer or post your question on Ravelry with a link to the pattern page so we can see what you're making and make a guess about how to handle it.

Every sock with a heel has short rows of some sort, whether there is a gusset or not. For a heel flap and gusset construction, the short rows are combined with decreases, so the technique used at the short row turn is a slipped stitch. That slipped stitch is then worked together with the adjacent stitch when you return to that point, which is how the cup of the turn is created. With this type of heel construction, you would not use a SR technique, other than simply slipping the stitch. Heels that are called "short row heels" typically use some sort of technique applied at the turn, such as W&T, the GSR double stitch, a shadow wrap, etc. These types of short row heels don't use decreases in combination with the short rows to form the cup. The total number of sts is maintained. In some cases, you might knit a small gusset prior to working the heel, in order to increase the stitch count (so that you can work the heel over more sts for a better fit). Then, once the heel was complete, you might knit another gusset to decrease the number of sts back down, again. But again, with a heel flap and heel turn, you do not use a technique other than simply slipping the st at the turn.

Thank you Roxanne, im knitting the bramble berry sock pattern from sew sweet violet and what Im trying to do is knit her heel in a contrast color ( because I love her heel pattern) but it seems to me that I need to shorten up the gusset stitches in order for the contrast color to look right, otherwise with all the gusset stitches it shapes very weirdly, i dont like it. So i have been rattling my brain to figure out how to use her method yet be able to knit the contrast heel in the diagonal/perpendicular shape where the colors meet. If that makes any sense..?? I hope.

A set of short rows adds two rows, so you can add short rows without disrupting stitch pattern continuity when you have a one- or two-row repeat, because you're just inserting an extra repeat (or two) between the existing repeats. Your pattern has a 4-row repeat, so there's no way to avoid disrupting the stitch pattern, because you're adding 1/2 a repeat

@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you for your quick answer - that was what I thought too. Is there any other way I can raise or shape the neck with raglan decreases?