Too funny. Did not expect a response so fast. Thanks.

My XP 3.0 in winter biking, while avoiding salted areas, got to point of no pedal assist at all. Everything else was normal including throttle only. Checked connectors, fine. I carefully rinsed off the gritty stuff down by the crank and sensor area (magnets and sensors somewhere but I am not sure exactly where) and let it dry overnight in the house. Worked fine next day. The next week the pedal assist was intermittent. I just used a paper napkin and wiped some grit off around the crank to frame area, and voila. Works fine again. These seem a little sensitive to mud and gunk near the crank. Coldest I biked this winter was 6 degrees. Battery worked fine, but when home, it refused to take a charge. I brought just the battery in overnight and a normal charge. There is no notable issue at say 15 degrees and up. 1200 miles on XP 3.0 and it’s actually a backup e-bike and winter bike. I like Lectric a lot, and their customer service has been most excellent. Other e-bike is Aventon Sinch, a little higher quality and $600 more. Also quite, to very good customer service. On the Aventon I have 8,400 miles. There is an Aventon dealer near by and that is really handy for repairs. At first I preferred the more gentle power application of Aventon, but after getting used to XP, I like the zippiness of that one and a top gear with several fewer teeth, it can whiz along nicely towards the end of the ride near the end of the charge. That’s when I feel I can open it up and burn more electrons for the final several miles. I love the spring loaded seat on Lectric, it’s more of a hard surface bike and faster. I have an expensive but very good Kinekt shock absorber post on the Aventon. That bike is better at slowest speeds dirt and grass trails with less jerky power application. I’m too old to fly over bumps, be radical. That hurts. I guess now that I know an Aventon dealer is 20 miles away, I’d stick with that brand for ease of tougher repairs. Lectric did send me the hydraulic brake kit, once that was on, wow ! I’m instantly and totally hooked on hydraulic. I got the Aventon dealer to also convert my Sinch to hydraulic. I am no lightweight and with hydraulic brakes, I can slam them on at 20 mph and lay rubber to a stop. Go down a steep hill with confidence. Keep on e-biking !!! I sold my Yamaha 125cc scooter after getting e-bike. It seemed a little redundant, sucked up some needed garage space, and changing its oil was a pain plus winterizing syndrome. I have gone as much electric as possible for town life. No EV tho, not at $50k to $80k. And it seems nationwide we need thousands of additional charge stations for longer trips. Adios and have a good day.

Thanks for making it easy to understand and for helping out the riders new to the ebike world.

Kevcentral is by far the best bike channel on KZfaq. I think Lectric should ve supplying you with their lite bike as you get a lot of views. Your review was the one I paid closer attention to before ordering our 3rd Lectric bike!

I love your channel, I can’t wait to see more project bike videos

Great video great way to explain the run out of pedal effect 👍

I knew there was a channel I forgot to add back on to my KZfaq account after having my other channel removed for unpopular opinions.. Anyway..wow your channel is doing great ..love the ebike stuff .. fatbike ..Walmart mods..after months away from viewing..your heading in the right direction.. love the content. A+

Very educational video. Thank you keV central

Great video. Can you describe more how easy the XP lite is to pedal with no power like if you ran out of power five miles from home on flat ground?

Thanks for showing us this video, I was thinking similarly, wanting to have some gearing for the lite. For me since I was running out of resistance at top speed, I swapped the gears for 11-28 in my xp2.

I feel like I have just graduated from Kev Central U! Happy Easter!!

From what I was able to calculate, base on it being a 54 to 18 gear ratio and a 2.4 inch tire on a 20 inch rim, you would need to pedal at about 107 RPM to maintain 19.8 mph. This is quite fast, but many experienced cyclists could maintain that. Some less experienced cyclists may have trouble maintaining that. Also, I would like to point out that you said that having gears make it easier to pedal. Some gears will make it easier to pedal, but other gears will make it more difficult to pedal. Since the Lectric XP 2.0 has gears, and appears to have the same chainring, I would guess that in the hardest gear it would be less likely to have run-out, but in the easiest gear, that there would definitely be run-out.

Hey happy Easter Kev and all 🐓🍻🐓🍻

Another great video.

Happy Easter Kevin to you and your family

I'm thinking of lowering the gear ratio to help the motor get started and improve my range. I rarely pedal faster than 10 mph if I'm not going downhill. I think helping the motor start would really improve my range as I weigh about 240. How would you do it if you were going to lower the gear ratio?

I've found KT controllers torque simulation helps with that.

Which is best to remove ghost pedalling? Bigger chainring or smaller cogs for a single speed ebike?

The XP Lite is the same weight as a 🛴 Segway Ninebot Max w/Seat! 😱 Imagine taking this on a bus or train bc it’s so lite! 🥰 I’m from a Moped EScooter ⚡️🛵 background, & am about to get into the ebike 🚲world! My 👀’s are on the XP Lite/ RadRunner 2/ Veego 750!

If I lived in a city I would definitely bike more. Or have a honda grom. One of the two.

Just bought an XP Lite, should be shipping here shortly. You mentioned that the gearing is 54/18, would it be possible to swap the freewheel for a 16t on this motor hub? It should use a standard freewheel right? Since I figure I would be running close to top speed most of the time it would make the pedal cadence a lot more "cruiser" with less spinning.

Love the video. I know a lot of people with the 1.0 and 2.0 who swapped out the freewheel to help the ghost pedal effect. Can you swap the rear cog on this one to one to help?

This is amazing info. Above 20mph there is practically no helping on a hub motor. Torque sensing I’m assuming is what you need in order to go above the limit of 20mph on a hub driven motor. That has to be a big reason as to why torque sensing, and more in particular mid drives allow one more range from the battery as you are actually helping the motor in those higher ranges especially.

I ride a XP 2.0 & with the stock freewheel, I could get 21 mph in 7th gear. Changed the freewheel to 11-28 I get 28 mph with some work.

This is helpful, but one thing this doesn't explain is why there is no pedal resistance on an xp 2 at each power level. When I select power level 1 the slightest bit of pedaling takes me up to 5 or 6 miles an hour and then there is resistance if I want to go faster. Same thing for power level 2, except that the bike goes up to about 10 miles per hour before I hit resistance, and power level 3 is the same except it occurs at about 15 miles per hour. You get the picture. This is in contrast to my regular bike that I added a swytch kit to where the power levels decrease pedal resistance gradually as the power level is increased but resistance is felt at all speeds. In other words, on the xp2 the power level selects the speed at which resistance is felt, which is practically useless to the point where I basically use it as a throttle bike only.

I can't ghost pedal my torque sensor Shimano E8000 and EP8 motors. They always need some decent push on the pedals to run, but they engage very quickly, far faster than half a turn. They can over run slightly at v high cadence which can be super useful on tech climbs. You also very much know about it when they turn off at 15.7mph - like hitting a wall!

Am I to assume we are never going to see more about the Ride1up roadster v2?

One simply needs to understand the relationship between pedaling cadence, gear selection, bike speed and motor power output. On my cadence sensor, hub drive bike, I feel negligible resistance on the pedals at around 32 km/hr when I am using my comfortable pedalling cadence of around 65 RPM. If I wanted to feel noticeable resistance again and actually speed up the bike, I just need to pedal faster (but that's uncomfortable). Or, I could also reduce the power output from the motor. This will reduce the bike's speed to a point where there is comfortable resistance at a comfortable pedalling RPM. Honestly, this is all intuitive for someone who's riden an ebike. So it makes me think that those who don't understand have never riden one.

Ever thought about building a mid drive ebike out of one of the big box bikes for a cheap ebike? And making a video of it?

You are essentially coming up against the wind, at 19.8 mph and one gear, the motor will only give you 19.8 and you physically probably can't push the bike past that speed because of wind resistance. (Heavy bike, no areo, 1 gear) That is probably the resistance you start to feel at the top end. Either that or the motor is pushing you way faster than your legs could possibly spin to go faster than 19.8mph because of that gear ratio. But in this case it would be more like you described with the hill where the drive/gravity or motor outpaces the riders ability.

Can you check if Walmart have new caborn x 29 2022 edition

Is there a rear cassette you can recommend for the 2.0 to help reduce the amount of run out of pedal effect?

Do you have a extra bike or something I could buy?

On the XP, you need to change the rear sprocket, to one with a 11 tooth ring on it.

Grear ratio is the question

I think this would be good for my wife, so she doesn't have to worry about gears. I think for myself, I like the more powerful Cargo.

I had a guy block me over this type of question. People constantly confuse sensors and drive types. Hub motors must have cadence and mid must have torque, wrong.

why cant go faster even im pedaling and it has still resistance / can still go faster if the motor and you can adjust the gear.

Does it have any option to work without the censor ???

Do you recommend the highest gear when riding an e bike on flat grounds for newbies?

Are e-bikes allowed on your local trails? They've been banned at all my local mtb trails.

What is the practical effect of this information? Why does it matter? I've never ridden an ebike, only multi-speed pedal bikes.

I'm not sure I understand what is happening here. My wife and I ride together often, I ride my Rad Rover 6 Plus and she is on her Lectric 2.0. When I'm in peddle assist 3 and 3rd gear, she has to be in peddle assist 5 and 7th gear. I traded her bikes and found the Lectric hard to ride because even in 7th gear and 3 assist I felt like I was just free peddling with no resistance. Is there and adjustment for the Lectric to fix the problem?

many times my XP 1.0 motor will go and will hardly move the pedal, when I say hardly, 1/4 of an inch and it shot me into my fence one day, lol. Bike, me and fence were not harmed, but did scare the Bajesus out of me. Proof that it can push more than 500 watts and my scrawny butt into the house siding, fence and doesn't like stop signs sometimes either, slightly touch pedal and it suddenly thinks it has 3000 watts of nut case in that motor, lol. (and yes, I do stop for stop signs, but my bike has other ideas once stopped, lol). There is a setting for the cadance, but I leave the computer alone, probably mess things up royally and end up in some river one day do to my bike thinking its christine, lol.

I think I would be afraid to go 28mph on a folding bike.

Run out of pedal all the time on my XP 2.0

I guess you don' t have a Ride1Up Core-5 (49 lbs) with a 750w (1000 peak) motor, 7 speed cassette, 27.5" tires, 48v 10a battery. That would work easily on your bike stand as well. Frankly the XP Lite should be lighter (and cheaper) for what you are getting. Its has a niche market so I get it, but unless you absolutely HAVE to get a folding bike.....mehhhh.

First

Maybe she just doesn't believe you can pedal 20 mph Kev lol

Move the sensor to the wheel.

2:58 take the chain off if you actually want to demonstrate something

You need to be very careful about pedal run-out, especially on a single speed. Single speed ebikes are geared funny, for a reason. I know you don't want it to happen, but, if you lose the motor for whatever reason, you are going to have a beast of a bike that you can't pedal on anything except level ground. I have a single speed ebike, the very first thing I did, ride it with the power off to make sure I could get it home without power. If not, it was going back and I would buy a geared ebike. Top speed is 22 mph and you are pedaling like crazy. If you want a fast ebike, buy one, they are out there, but, you will pay. Not less than $1,000 like the Lectric ebikes can be had. Pedal your ebike with the power off for miles (not just yards, miles, like 10+), you will figure it out very quickly. Fast ebikes can be had... usually $2,000 and up very rapidly.

I think she had a stroke

I think peddling like a bat out of hell with a frenzy to keep up with some resistance is very inefficient. Seems like you have issues with a woman correcting you.:)