For everyone who pointed out the turbo drain is wrong, THANK YOU... I will fix it ASAP

The new transfer pump provides significantly better net positive suction head for the injection pump, which helps injector flow/atomization/spray pattern. This is the most likely cause of your performance gains.

On paper, this project sounds like watching grass grow would be better time spent. But having robot cantina edit it in a video, it's my favorite KZfaq series.

This is almost exactly the same as my high speed runs on my 2004 Motorhispania RX50 which is a 9/10 scale crotch rocket with a liquid cooled 50cc engine and 6 gears. People always think it's a full size crotch rocket, but it's narrower and light at 235 pounds. The fastest I've gotten it to was 72mph... once, going downhill, with the wind at my back. It's "fast" up to about the top of 3rd gear which is about 40mph, by real bike standards it's not-but it's so fun to bang through all the gears all the time, and redline that screamer at 12k revs

I don't remember how I found your channel but I am glad I did. You have given me hours of enjoyment with your projects. Thanks for sharing your work with us. Phil

I’d be careful running the turbo sideways like that. The oil needs to be able to drain or it’ll push right past the seal and you’ll have a runaway. Another option is a small separate oil system for the turbo. It doesn’t need much. I’ve even seen junk builds with grease crammed into the oil cavity

turbo oil drain should ideally point down. in config shown, compressor seal will be dry and turbine seal will leak oil into the exhaust

I love it. It needs a tractor flap, and if you're bored, a hood exit exhaust. Although the hood exit might attract the rozzers so maybe not. All those stickers have turned it into a real cop magnet. It would have been nice to see the fuel pressure before the high pressure pump both with the old tick tick pump and the new one. But oh well, love your build!

Your turbo will blow oil past the turbine seal mounted like that. It needs to be mounted horizontally with the drain pointing down. You can get away with a few degrees but straight down illiminates oil pooling against the turbine seal which is a ring with the open end pointing to the 12oclock position and the drain side at 6 o'clock.

Awesome, I really enjoy this series! A couple suggestions: Run a diesel fuel additive to increase cetane and lubricity, you might squeeze out a little more power from the improved combustion. Also add some motorkote hyperlube to the oil, to reduce friction in the drivetrain and squeeze out some more power robbed by friction. Projectfarm did an excellent video test on motorkote highlighting it's friction reducing properties. Lastly, put a clear cover over the headlight wells, I would imagine you could reduce some drag that way. Keep up the good work

An upload on a Wednesday? A surprise to be sure, but a welcome one

The stickers and the bad wheel bearings is what made the soon to be scrapped Saturn faster.

Stickers should have been added one at a time for science. Always fun to watch. Thankyou

“Low effort, with big results is what we’re after” -Robot Cantina

I used to have a SC2 that I would drive 40-50 miles per day. I added clear covers over the head lights taped and screwed to the bumper so there was a smooth path between the bumper and front edge of the hood and went from 35 mpg highway to 38 with no fog or condensation issues. I later added a front air dam similar to the one on your car with 4 1-1/2" holes for radiator airflow and picked up another 2 mpg with no cooling issues. Edit: With the turbo mounted like that it's going to blow oil out the exhaust because of oil pooling in the center section from the drain being so far off of vertical. Pretty much every turbo manufacturer recommends that the drain is a max of 15 degrees from vertical in either direction

Don't worry about the criticism from the audience! You do you. That's what makes this channel fun! But, you should totally list what you had to eat for the day along with the outside air temp and conditions. 🙂

Love this series! Please consider a little bit of blue Loctite on the 2 Allen screws located in the turbo inlet adapter. Bolts in danger of getting ingested always seem to be the ones working themselves loose😎

New Robot Cantina content on a Wednesday.. thank you for the pleasant surprise! Needed it today...

Bro how I'm able to sleep with new robot Cantina video!!

You made me laugh with the stickers. Rumor is that the range between .5 to 1hp. Pull the factory muffler and put on a tractor muffler. I'm thinking the oe one may be too restricted. A turbo will definitely help out

First: you made me laughing a lot! Second: thanks for the conversions from imperial/Fahrenheit to metric/Celsius. That makes understanding much easier and faster. Cheers from overseas 🇺🇸🤗🇩🇪

So you're saying it was the highway to the DANGER ZONE!

Sweet!!

For the algorhytm and congratulations on the new record !!👍 Greetings from Roadie✌

I seriously enjoy that you do read the comments and make adjustments. Though as an expert on stickers, you are using low horsepower stickers, those gains are minimal of up to 1hp+ per sticker. It is why you did see improvements but not the high gains you expected of 140hp+. For more serious gains I recommend using stickers with sparkles and holographic, unicorns work well along with Hello Kitty and the like. They average about 5hp+ per sticker. Try and avoid the anime girl stickers though, unless you want specifically torque gains. Glad I could be of help and I love the series.

I heard you say you're going to send the Saturn to the scrap yard... I'm a Saturn collector and lover and I would be more than happy to take It off your hands for you when you're done!

If you ever reach the limits of the engine just put another one in the trunk so you have awd and double the power

Congratulations on the new records! For a moment I thought I had slept over half of the week 🙂 With the turbo installed, it looks better already - curious to see its performance 🙂

FWIW, as a former diesel mechanic… I think the majority of your power gains were from the lift pump change. These mechanical injection pumps have a range of positive pressure they like to see on their inlet to perform best. (Old Cummins with Bosch P7100 as an example might be 20-25psi). The engine will idle and perform very well even near zero psi, BUT you will notice higher rpm power is down. BTW, really liking the videos 👍

Everybody knows that Racing stripes and performance stickers are legit ways to get more horsepower.. They're just like "bolt on's", except easier..😉🍻🍻

My money is on the fuel pump. The D722, depending on who you ask, drinks 0.9-1.1 gph and that’s without opening up the fuel. The old lift pump produced 1.0gph.

Can't wait to hear the Kubota whistle!

My 80's IDI turbo VW diesel regularly sees 1250-1300 F egt's, and has over 350K miles on it and still makes spec compression. My common rail cummins also will pull a hill with a load sitting at 1100 for miles and loves it. Just saying she probably wouldn't mind running more fuel/temp. Love the channel!

Thanks Jimbo! I've been waiting for some turbo stuff for a good while and I'm excited to see what flabbergasting finagling it takes to make it work. This is among the best series in the automotive space right now, thanks for all the work you put in.

Citroen 2CV with 602cc flat-twin: 0-60mph in 38.2 seconds when tested in 1982, so you already have one trophy in the cabinet 😆

Good stuff! I still think it's worth trying water methanol spray injection (winter washer fluid works). That should keep the engine cooler and steam clean inside.

After running a model of your car through AirShaper and hours of simulation in the Camshaft software we have determined the biggest contributor to todays result where the stickers. We have also determined that you have missed in a great power increase opportunity by not painting the lines. Not even in the best possible scenario this loss could be compensated by installing a turbo. Now Vin Diesel is sad... you se what you did... we hope you are proud.

I love this channel and I absolutely love this project I'm in the process of building a diesel motorcycle myself but I have to say it just totally breaks my heart to hear that you're going to just take this thing and send it to the crusher after you get done making all the videos you can on it, you have built a vehicle that is very fuel-efficient with an extremely durable engine in you could run it on used cleaned cooking oil why not keep the vehicle around so people can see the possibilities, there are so many people in the world that would love to have a daily driver such as this , please don't destroy it.

I'll go with the fuel rack adjustment as making the biggest difference but kind of figured the improved transfer pump was needed to keep up with it. Great job and very entertaining. No complaints here. Well, except my OCD auto tech by trade self would suggest centering the steering wheel so I don't get a headache watching. 🤣 I'm sorry. Thanks for sharing your awesome creativity sir!

Interesting mileage. I just took my 2015 Jetta TDi on a 190 mile round trip from Wisconsin down to Chicago. I filled before and after I got back and was on the interstate 95% of the trip. I kept to ~70mph and got a hand calculated 55.6 for the trip. Not too shabby for a 3200lb sedan in the winter. Oh, and I have AC 😉

Man this channel has just turned into a turbo tease. Though I would like to mention small amounts of propane injection has shown massive gains for diesel engines. On that small engine you could probably just plumb a propane torch into the intake after the turbo and obviously not light it.

I think I red somewhere that turbo’s turbine shaft should be kept horizontal-ish for proper lubrication of the bushings. OEM installations are mostly compliant with that requirement too

Let’s get it!

Oooooo! Unexpected happiness! I clicked on this So Fast! This channel is better than ice cream, I tell ya!

LOL, need more stickers! J/K.... ya don't. Loving this build so far, can't wait to see what's next.

Intercool the turbo to make more dense air and a better burn.

Wow! You’re approaching the fuel consumption figures for my 2004 Audi A2 1.4 litre 3 cyl turbo diesel! Now all ya need is an aluminium body and 90hp 😅

This is one of my favourite KZfaq projects--period. The ultimate expression of "Yeah, but why not?"

In an inlet system, fuel slows down along the sides of the tube. Without bends, it's usually adviced to use a tube that's 4 times bigger than the inlet. With bends it should go up. Cold air only makes sense with very hot inlet temps or very restricted stork filters. The fuel pump and stickers are more likely to help

One of the best channels on the 'Tube'! Thank you Jimbo for your courage and sacrifice!

In my opinion, when turbo and a right dimensioned intercooler right placed too, added to optimal tuning to fuel pump for the higher request of diesel, could help a significant reach in performances. Eventually, the last - i think - mod could be improving the injectors and/or a new compatible high pressure fuel pump. Best goal could be balancing performance and fuel efficiency, keeping acceptable temperatures in the engine and exhaust.......

Really enjoying this series and the channel. I am a subscriber now. Also really like the way you address all the opinions in the comments, good for a laugh! Everyone is a pro in the KZfaq comments section.

Put a Propane injection system in the intake, its like nitrous for gas engines

I can guarantee that giant TURBO stickers will make it go even faster than those racing stripes.

I haven't commented until now, but only because I just want to see where you go with this thing. I applaud your tenacity, and it's great entertainment! So, now time for my .02. First the blocking of the air. That is not your problem with temperature regulation. The engine thermostat controls engine operating temperature. (By the way, you didn't mention engine temp in this video.) If it's too low, then you need a higher temp thermostat. As to aerodynamic effect, who knows? Next, your greatest HP/torque gain was getting cold air to the engine. It's the expansion of air that generates power. Cold air is more dense. More dense is more air to expand in the combustion process. More expansion = more power. Smoke is unburned fuel, which means you did not have enough air in the cylinder. The best location to pull the highest pressure outside air is at the cowl, where the cabin air inlet is, hence the reason for cowl induction hoods. Hot air from under the hood is already partially expanded, which = less air density, which = less power. As to your transfer, or lift pump, the flow test meant nothing. What matters is the amount of pressure at the injection pump inlet. Pressure is resistance to flow. The volume then only needs to match the volume required to run the engine at full fuel at maximum governed RPM. If your pressure drops below spec, THEN the flow is inadequate. It probably helped eliminating that pulse, as the injection pump inlet pressure would have been constantly changing with pressure spikes and near zero pressure on the rebounds. "Less heat means less fuel". Well, no... The amount of fuel determines the amount of heat. The amount of heat energy released from the fuel determines the amount of expansion. More air in the cylinder expanding to the same degree as less air in a cylinder for a given amount of fuel will produce more cylinder pressure. More pressure is more power! More air! More air! More air! While you're at it, remove any exhaust restriction you can. Air in, air out. More air! LOL For your aerodynamics, buff that thing out, then give it a good waxing, waxing the windows too! It really does make a difference! If you really want to go farther, find the narrowest tires you can get for it and run them at the max rated pressure. Once you've achieved governed RPM in 5th gear, that's your top speed. After that' it's all about acceleration! Well, ok, mileage too, but acceleration first!

Very enjoyable series! I’ve always wanted to do this. Love the fab work, the explanations, and the overall video product - well done… you made me care about and root for a Saturn! Cant wait for the turbo! PS: It’s definitely the stickers. 😂

Don't forget the intercooler, there should be lots of them in the junkyards.

Maybe in deep Kansas, we don't know that at the end of the 90's Volkswagen marketed a vehicle powered by a 3 cylinder diesel 1.2L turbo which consumed 79 miles per US gallon, the Lupo 3L (830kg). Which consumes little, pollutes little and it is a pity that we have lost sight of it, thanks you for your perseverance in this way.

Finally a turbo, I'm about to turbo my 7.3 idi. I hope it helps out a lot.

He still needs to add timing to the engine and it's done by removing shims in the fuel pump on the engine doing this will add about 4 degrees of timing and combined with the turbocharger system will just about improve the horsepower and torque of the engine a lot better than just a turbocharger system alone.

thanks for the healthy response to criticism and embracing the teachable moment 😊

Love the DIY problem solving. Looking forward to the next episode!

Great progress!

Definitely the stickers that helped

Can't wait to see the turbo test... Hopefully it'll help fuel economy too since you'll be able to run the engine at a lower RPM for the same power output.

This project is great! Love the bumper arrow mods. Thanks and Keep up the good work

I can feel the power

OOOHHH! That's meee! Hahaha (on the comment list at the beginning of the video)... Firstly, my 'Wheel bearing' comment, yeah, unless f*cked, wouldn't affect rolling resistance at all really, it's just i wasn't sure it was wheel bearing or something else due to this mad configuration you had made. 🤔😉. Also, wanna say... love the 'Rozzers' part... Us Brits, we have some nicknames eh? lol. 😉 I'm glad you've some major performance improvement have been had with just the pump and air intake mods👍 😎🇬🇧

I always enjoy your videos. There are always fun and not to be taken too seriously, apart from all the work you put in to do modifications and film and produce them. I hope you keep on doing what you're doing, bringing fun to a Sunday morning (lol even though it's Monday)

40 sec! Congrats. I suspect putting the cold air intake lower near the bottom would give you even a little more. With the air vent completely blocked up, the intake air temps were probably pretty high. Lower might pick up air coming under the car.

I'm sure the comments have beaten this to death, but I figured I throw in my $0.02. Depending on the design of the injection pump, inadequate lift pump pressure/flow can absolutely negatively effect injection fuel rate. The Stanadyne DB2 mechanical injection pump is well known for this attribute. One of the easy ways to get more fuel out of those pumps was to put a bigger lift pump on them and put a pressure regulator on the fuel return circuit. This would increase housing pressure. Due to the design of the pump, there was an internal reference to the housing pressure that effected the rotary vane angle, so more fuel would be injected. I don't THINK you have a rotary vane style pump, but perhaps it's still possible? And as a safety measure, all versions of the Stanadyne DB series of injection pumps will create enough suction at the inlet to work without a lift pump, but fuel volume (and so power) is decreased. I don't think any of your other modifications would have been able to create the drastic drop in 0-55mph times that you observed. Also, as I'm sure others have noted, you CANNOT orient the turbo that way. Every turbo I've ever installed has limitation for how "out of level" the turbo can be in any given direction. Ideally, the turbo would be perfectly level with the oil drain line pointed straight down. Also, if possible, the termination point of the oil drain line should be below oil level. You don't HAVE to do it that way, but you're less likely to get issue with blowby from the pistons interfering with the oil draining out of the turbo. The oil seals on a turbo are not like a seal you would normally expect. The idea is that the oil is "slung" away from the shaft and allowed to drain down into the crankcase. There's no real positive seal between the turbine shaft and the housings, so making sure the oil can easily drain away from the turbo is VERY important. If you don't do this, oil WILL pump into the compressor and turbine housings. On a gasoline car, this isn't a big deal, it just makes the car run smokey, but on a diesel engine it can cause catastrophic failure due to a runaway condition. If you don't know what a runaway is, it's when a diesel engine begins running on it's own lubricating oil. So even with the injection pump turned completely off, the engine will continue to run on aerosolized engine oil that's being pushed/drawn into the intake. Because it's uncontrolled, often the engine will continue to increase it's speed until the point that it mechanically fails. The number one thing that causes this situation is failure of the oil seal on the compressor side of the turbo, which then pumps highly aerosolized oil straight into the intake. Once this starts, there's no stopping the runaway condition unless you can stop the air flow into the turbo or somehow stop the oil flow. Both can be dangerous to do as the engine will be running well past it's maximum rev limit when this occurs. So at the risk of being overly dramatic, do NOT mess around with improper turbo orientation on a diesel engine. If you get a runaway and the engine fails catastrophically while you're trying to stop it, you could catch a connecting rod to the face. Needless to say, that's not a day anyone wants to have.

Incredible work as always, can't wait to see the next one

Very cool. I know a number of owners of VW Diesel cars that report 50mpg frequently... and you're already past that. If you can manage reasonable performance and 60mpg, that'd be a very affordable to drive car.

Can’t wait to see that turbo. Great channel. One of my favourites bar you can beat video games. Keep up the great content. This channel’s gonna blow up.

I grew up with a Ma Bell phone exactly like your red one except that it was a sickly shade of 1970's green. As touch-tone cost extra, we were still using that phone into the 90's. Ever since, I've had to replace the phones at my parents' house every few years as new ones just don't last. Ma Bell had plenty of downsides, but equipment longevity wasn't one of them.

That fuel economy was really good considering the only obtainable non-PHEV car that gets anywhere near close is a Geo Metro.

Hi from Canada where our winters go down to -5°F. Love watching your videos. Looking forward to the next.

Can't wait to see the Saturbo in action. Also, (watching the outro clip) I wonder if you could use something akin to an exhaust pipe expander to make a more smooth transition on the inlet and outlet of the compressor housing on the turbo. I could imagine plenty of turbulence going in and out of the compressor with that abrupt volumetric change in diameter.

Btw im an automotive diesel technician, feel free to ask any questions you may have!

Quality as always. Love the info and once aain thanks for including units for the metric crowd (ISO)

Cant wait for the next episode! Iv been watching your builds since season 1 episode 3 from memory! Great to see how everything is progressing

Love your videos! Great work and we are excited to finally see the turbo install!

These videos are awesome. This is literally the type of thing I’ve always wanted to do but didn’t have the means.

it amazing how replacing a transfer pump and adjusting the air intake improves performance 🙂

IMHO the aero mods wouldn't increase the frontal area and provides an easy path for air to escape, so probably worthwhile, the most gains might come from a flat floor. Love your work ;)

Everyone pointed it out already, the turbo/oil issue. Just a quick tweak and you’ll be good! 👌

I'm always keen for an update on your projects. Love the channel. Thank you.

They need more views for a bigger budget!!! These videos are fantastic and so well made!!!

It probably doesnt like hills or a strong headwind but in flat Kansas this " thing" will do nicely :) Interesting to see what a little 3cyl industrial engine is capable of..

Glad to see you still working on this project! I've been wanting to Kubota swap my geo metro just because lol

Great video as always :) I always appreciate the metric measurements too

I would set up a hillbilly lp injection kit that shoots propane directly into the intake when the throttle is wide open. It would boost performance quite a bit and lower the EGT's because it will make the intake charge a whole lot colder and burn more efficiently so you can shoot more cooking oil in as well.

HOLD YOUR HORSES. The turbo being on that angle will result in massive oil consumption. They need to be within 20 degrees of level to drain!

Swapping that air filter for the bigger factory one made a world of a difference. Evidently, the engine was being choked by the smaller one. Can't wait to see how it does with the turbo. Nice work, my friend!! 👌

The extra long intake most definitely helped with the performance. Longer intake tubing means more torque at lower RPM, and it's a winning combination for a diesel like that which doesn't rev high.

Thanks vor for the great Videos. I love every single one!

I'm all about the efficiency and drivability, so I'm even more excited to see the results with the turbo

I don't know about little diesel engines but in trucks the promotor should stay under 1200 . If you turn up the fuel the promotor cool down.

I absolutely love these videos man, don’t you dare stop putting them out !

I’m jealous ! You have more stickers than I do 😁👍🏼