Thanks.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aZd8ncp-mKrPj40.html Check this out

Waiting? This was it!

I did just that. They said, wet sand it off, and re-clear.

@@motorman857 sometimes you might might have to re base coat after sanding, if your base coat is a metallic you can what we call (burn the metallics)when you sand into them and if you don't fix that the clear will magnify it....and you won't be happy, good luck

ya- I have them@Absolutely nothing on my channel

2K clear is what I used and forgot to pull out that ring to activate. I just spent an hour sanding it off. That caused a couple of edges. So now, I'll give it another coat of base and another coat of the mid paint before clearing again.

@@motorman857 stay away from the edges when sanding I did the same thing . The 3m perfect it compound made a huge difference in the final result do you have a buffer ? I think I paid 30 for the compound but it was worth every penny ! Don't forget to let the clear to dry for 48 hours before wet sanding......good luck!

No. Way too much work without the proper tools.

I did sand the non-catalyzed clear off the tour pack before putting another coat on it. This video is over a year old. The tour pack did wind up coming out pretty good. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nNOcdsKjnaydn5s.html Thanks for the tips though. I can use all the help I can get from someone who knows what they're doing. I might paint the black side panels blue. Do you think I need to prime them over the factory base coat/clear coat? Or just sand them?

After scuffing surface with (red) Scochbrite pad, you will not need to prime. But to insure you will not have any issues, I would advise you to use a sealer before applying new paint Jerry.

How dare you call me a perfectionist! I'm a SEMI, perfectionist! So there.

@@motorman857 I stand corrected Jerry.Keep up the good work.

Remember. It's all in the prep. Then the wet sanding, then the polishing.

@@motorman857 got em sanded down tomorrow its a go!👍

I'm thinking that's what I should do.

@@motorman857 Without knowing what you are painting with I'd recommend it. Hop over here www.autobody101.com/forums/ and ask these guys. You'll need to tell them what type paint you're using, a single stage acrylic enamel, lacquer or epoxy. My guess is you're using SSAE. If you do wind up sanding it off you'd be best to wet sand with 400 and apply another coat of color if it's metal flake. Sanding, wet or dry, doesn't agree with metal flake.

It's not brain surgery. Just tedious and time consuming to do it right especially if you don't have a compressor and a paint gun.

Damn. Why didn't I think of that?

Yes it's dry to the touch but it has a lot of texture/orange peel. I'm not sure that it's a hardener that releases when you pull the ring at the bottom of the can or just a chemical that gets mixed in. If I wet sand it, how long should I wait to spray the clear?

You can spray right away after sanding. Just clean it up well. I’d test a small area with wax & grease remover. Test an inconspicuous area to Make sure the cleaner does not affect the paint. Then go ahead and wipe it down and shoot it. Catalyst and hardener are pretty much the same thing. Good luck!

Hey Jerry , the clear is a two part system the ring releases the hardener in the can. I would let that coat dry a day them lay down a couple more coats of clear, that should smooth out the orange peel. @@motorman857

This guy explains edge buffing well. You have a lot of edges. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/lcB0jN2Aptyxj30.html

I did say how much the paint was. 92 bucks for 2 cans of base, 2 cans of mid color and 2 cans of clear. About 5 hours of labor so far, and 20 bucks in paper. If I could have found a matching color at the auto parts store, the paint would have been about 35 dollars.

Sorry-didn’t hear the costs in the video. Thanks.

Yes.

showbikelights.com tell Jay I sent ya

Just go on ebay and type in razor tour pack. There's a bunch of sellers all selling the same thing. I paid 200 bucks with the backrest and free shipping.

Ride Like a Pro Jerry Palladino awesome. Thanks brother

2 cans of base and 2 cans of clear. If you use automotive paint from usa.specialistpaints.com/pages/contact It will last as long as the stock paint. Tell them I sent you.

@@motorman857 Thank you very much, If I go this route, I will tell them you sent me. Appreciate all you do for us in Two.

@@motorman857 They don't have my color but I told them you sent me thank you again.

The paint is from custompaints.com no primer was needed.

On police bikes it's called impact blue but on civilian models it's called electric blue. Electric blue is easier to find and is listed on many color match sites but they are exactly the same color.

@@motorman857 Thank you

I have no idea. I purchased it from amazon or ebay but I don't recall the seller. If you want a quality tour pack, go with advanblack.com Otherwise, the tour packs are hit and miss as far as quality.

Hello there.

Ray Locke Really? I'm not sure if you're referring to Jerry's bike or if it was your own! IMHO, your comment is totally useless and simply one that should have stated where it originated - in your own head. I THINK he did the right thing by color matching to his bike. I THINK it would have looked hideous leaving it black. Just MY thoughts.

@@daleLan1 I was referring to my own bike about leaving it black.

Actually, I don't know anyone at any body shops. But, having once done this before, I was sure I could do it again. And I will. Sure I could pay someone else to do it. But I wouldn't learn anything doing it that way and none of my viewers would either.

Kustomcanz.com They had a dealer 5 miles from my house as it turns out.

What does the Night Stalker know about sand paper?

@@motorman857 I painted cars for 17 years before Law Enforcement. New and updated sanding systems are great so there’s no chasing that pesky water drip that wants to come out of hiding in your first or second coat of clear.. the tour pack looked good though. I’m gonna do the same ( with a rattle can) since I sold all my paint equipment 12 years ago. Is there a link for the paint materials you used? Have a great day Mr. Jerry

@@davidromero2870 The paint is from custompaints.com tell em I sent you. Where do I get info on these new updated sanding systems?

@@motorman857 Thanks Mr. Jerry. Now, I have been out of the loop since 2009 but there were several companies like 3M, Mirka and other "automotive" supply companies making the switch to waterless sanding because the sanding sludge would enter the storm drain system. The chemical compositions of the catalyzed paint systems contain carcinogens. The systems were expensive then but I dont know about now. My suggestion would be to speak with the paint reps at the local automotive paint store for the most up to date methods.. Water sanding is stiil performed all over but to me its just a little more messy and time consuming. I used to have small problems with water that would sneak out on the first coat or second coat of clear and boy is that frustrating. And a little bit of info, water sanding with P grade paper is more aggressive than dry sanding with A grade paper. If you use P400 wet, step it down to P600 and you can paint over those scratches without fear of sand scratch swelling after curing. Hope this is useful. Thanks again sir.