This is my new go to channel. I'm definitely buying a mill when we move to our land and you my good sir have helped me learn so much already. Just wanted to let you know that you're saving a family thousands of dollars and providing an amazing service here.

Better than the video from the manufacturer

very articulate educator! Great job giving and showing clear instructions us newbies appreciate.....

This is really well put together informative and fun to watch!! Thanks Sandy

I'm ordering this tomorrow morning, and you are one of the main reasons for that. Your videos are spot on. WM needs to pay you for this service that you do for them.

Great to see you back Martin

Great video. I cant wait to get one myself.

I just ordered a woodlander 126xl with the lap siding attachment. The trailer should be nice for me, quicker leveling and I can put it in the shop when not in use, and cut lumber on site when it saves hauling. I really appreciate your videos!

Your attention to detail is excellent; I'm looking to purchase the same model and am looking forward to making siding with this attachment as well. Thank you for documenting your experience. I am envious of the sawdust pile you've created with your mill! :-)

Great video !

That’s a nice addition to the mill

Hi Sandy - great videos and channel. You have been a great help! Keep up the good work. I've got a HM126 and your knowledge is very helpful.

Another awesome video, very informative!

Awesome description as always Sandy. Looked all over for instructions on how to set up my Woodmizer lap side - but your walk through on Woodland was far more helpful. Nicely done.

Nicely explained for everyone

Good Video. Very well done Sandy.

Yay! 4K plus subs! Congrats!

Sweet! Like Maple Syrup. 👍🌲

Sandy, well done and informative video. I like the tilting of the saw as the siding creation is on demand. My WoodMizer has an attachment that has to be mounted to the bed when making siding and shingles. You can use your setup as well to make shingles.

been a woodworker for 75 years now. seen lots of shit...ur pretty awesome. keep up the good work...john

Ah good to know thank you!

Looks like it should work great

Nice.

tks for the videos

Good job.

Hey there buddy how are ya? Oh thank you for showing us how to use the lap siding attachment for the mill. So awesome!!!

Great job on both videos sandy

I have the Woodland 126 mill and love it...I have made lap siding by just shimming under 1 side of the cant take a cut and remove the shim for the next cut..This works but if your making alot of siding this new setup would be nice.

Thanks

If you haven't see it already, there is a Made in the USA tool called the LogOx 3 in 1 tool that would have let you pick up the end of the log and easily put it on the mill bed. I happened to see the video a bit earlier.

You could just insert a small wedge under the cant and remove it after each other cut.

Another awesome video. Now I'm ready to install mine.

The lap siding I got from lowes is parallel no angle About 8 bucks for a 12' x 8" x 3/8 " I bought a mill but have not put together yet its one that you did a review on i Think Os23 I got the 10 horse brigs upgrade I will make a video of it when I do get it going not many out there for that one All the best to you and yours from John in Texas keep making Saw dust and your videos

The problem is you will get a plain sawn siding,not a quarter sawn siding. It will cup. I have seen quartersawn clapboards made at Wards clapboard mill. they makea very good stable siding. pine or spruce , I think . At Wards they take a 6 foot clear log. put it on a big shaving rig, like a lathe bed, it makes a big dowel- like piece of wood. The circular saw cuts from the outside to a core,about 6 inches in. it then clicks over about 5/ 8 of an inch. You get tapered slices that are quarter sawn. They are planed on one side and the fat edge is planed straight. They had mills in VT. and Maine. They may not still be in business. It was excellent siding. restoration grade for historic buildings. Pine clapboards lap siding like you saw,cup and break.

Just watched this again. Great video Sandy. If u want wooden Shingles, just mill them thinner and use the Chopsaw to cut to various lengths.

When you move into your new saw shed, I would suggest that you raise the mill off the floor 28-30 inches, working below your knees is hard on the back.

Sandy it has been 3 years since you made this video I don’t know if you still follow the questions but I will try anyway how do you stack the beveled siding to air dry

Hi Sandy, Could you use this attachment to make shakes as well?

Thanks for the video...helpful and well made. I'm curious what you think of the lap siding feature after a year with it? Do you think it compromises the stability or level of the cutting head in any way? I just ordered the 130Max with extended bed and lap siding addition.-arrives in late Feb - cheaper then the materials for deck and siding

Yeah I'm thinking making a cradle for the cant that rocks back and forth would be easier. But thanks for the video, I never would have thought of the cradle without your video. I notice too a live edge on the siding would be easy and an interesting look. I have seen live edge slabs used on some 19th century buildings when cutting off the live edge was a lot more work than today.

which model do you have. i'm looking to order mine now with the lap siding attachment. you have your setup without a trailer, and tips you can give me?

Show us how you run lap siding through the thickness plainer. Thanks for the video.

The adjustment lever looks cumbersome to operate, would the gas shock give more assistance if the ft lbs was higher? And does the handle get in the way of the saw head adjustment lever when cranking up or down? BTW, Good instructional video, well done.

yep thanks sandy you sold me on the woodland hm130 with the lapsiding attachment just picked it up at portland oregon wearhouse now just gotta put it together and get them to send me a hat like yours so i can get them some free advertisement . you da man sandy .what do ya think of there blade sharpener set up .looking at ordering one of those to

Sandy, guess I better start a lap siding attachment budget item so I can get me one when I got the funds saved. One question though, in the video it appears that you had a little problem getting the saw head locked back level. Is this a problem ? Or was it not? I really thought you did a great job explaining everything 👍

I’m curious what you think of the lap siding attachment since having it on for a while? Has it affected the regular process any? Thanks.

Greetings Sandy, informative video on lap siding! Getting ready to push the go button for the attachment for my HM 126. Your video certainly played a part in the decision. Curious about two things though. You mention that the thin edge of your plank is 1/2", what did you end up thickness wise on the thicker edge? Also, you mention, and I've seen this referred to elsewhere, that cutting tapered lap siding improves the yield from the cant. Did you do any math to see how many extra boards you might get as opposed to straight cut planks? Cheers, Erik

How do you recommend to stack a pile of this lap siding? I can't figure out how you would sticker the boards effectively to avoid warping without keeping my stack to just a single piece of lap siding in width. Which doesn't seem like a good way to go about it to me. Would appreciate any suggestions or maybe even a short video (hint). :-)

Hey Sandy, two questions, first would the saw handle the wood fibers if you turn a short cant sideways to make shingles? I have a bed for my hm130 to attach the shingle cants and in theory its possible to do over 20 shingles per pass but not sure how the saw will cut making the long fibers instead of sawdust? And woodland mills website doesn't have a price out yet on that lap siding mod so can you give us a rough idea? Nice videos Josh must like you too.

Hey Sandy...just getting ready to install my lap siding attachment on my 130 as well...wondering if you have any tips on drying lap siding once cut. I'm doing a bunch of ash since the ash-borer beetle killed them all. How do you sticker the siding boards once cut, and for how long until you think they are ready to go on the house?

That is well thought out. I like your height sight glass. Is that boughten or homemade from lexan?

Sandy, the builds I have seen you making are with green lumber. I would think that the lap siding would cup more, and you wouldn’t always be able to but the “bark side down” because there would be a slight variation on the bottom lip. I would also guess you just nailed the top like the clapboard you used on the tiny house. My question is how did you like using the lap siding after you made it? Do you have a preference between the lap siding, and just using the clapboard style. Did it cup a lot, and require face nails later after it had dried? Any other suggestions for installing?

Do you have a video where you put lap sided planks in good use?

Is the cant already dried and then cut to desired finished lap siding size? I am novice and I am waiting on my HM130MAX to arrive. Pondering wood srinkage when I get wood down to low moisture level. Thank you for sharing any constructive opinions. Great job producing quality videos and content. Really good stuff. Have a great day and better tomorrow.

Are you using fresh cut lumber, or you waiting for the lumber to air dry ?

have you ever attempted to cut wood shingles

Is there any performance degradation or accelerated wear from leaving the siding attachment on for all other sawmill cutting? i.e. should you uninstall the lap siding attachment if not using it for lap siding?

Is there a way to plane this lap siding for a smoother finish?

What's the best way to stick these boards out in your kiln?

Quick question: I'm buying the HM122...what would determine if I stay with the 7hp engine or go with the 9.5hp engine? I would think as long as my blade is sharp that the 7hp can cut through hardwoods without a problem...or am I wrong about that?

How did you make your opening video that is in the beginning of all of your videos?

I use lap siding on my house, because the house is 170 years old, and came with lap siding. However,,,lap siding should, NOT, be tapered. The taper on lap siding is a way of increasing yield from your cant. In reality, tapered lap siding, will leave a gap under the center of each board, and when nailed, will bend, and often crack the board. Just lay out a few pieces on a flat surface, and look at the cross section. For good, and much more stable, siding, simple 1/2' boards will work, and be less prone to cupping and splitting. Not to mention simpler to mill. Just my opinion,, of course. I love watching your progress, and really like the way you explain the process so clearly. Just one question. Did Woodland mills prevent you from showing the mechanics of how the mechanism works ?

Do you still like your woodland lap siding attachment?

Sandy, have you ever tried to make shingles if so how did you do it?

wouldn't it be easier to make a few shims to pur under the logs?

can you make shingle with it? assuming no

What is your moisture content when milling this siding?

Why do they call it a cant instead of a can?

Doesn't take an attachment......all it takes is 2 small pcs of plywood for shims. Cock the cant up off the bed with a peavy, stick the plywood shims between the bottom of the cant and the bed rail. Saw a pc of siding.....the taper will be to one side. Next pass, remove the shims...the taper on the siding will be on the other side. Keep going until the cant is all turned into siding. I've made many many many thousands of feet of siding over the last 30 years using this simple method that costs nothing. I actually bought a Woodmizer siding/shingle attachment, and the first time I used it and figured out that is ALL it does (cock and uncock the cant side to side), I hung it on the wall of my mill shed and never used it again. One of the problems with an attachment like Woodmizer's is you have to saw a log into a cant.....then move an often REALLY HEAVY cant out of the way ( I often saw cants 16' long, 8" wide and as tall as I can get out of a log to make siding......sometimes 20-24")....Place the attachment on the bed (and it ain't exactly light either), then wrestle the fool cant BACK into the dadgum attachment and saw siding. Heck, by the time you do all that, you could have sawn the whole thing into siding using shims AND SAVED ALL THAT WORK !! Now the Woodmizer attachment IS GREAT for sawing shingles. You load 6 blocks of wood in it (Up to 24" long, up to 12" wide and however tall you want) and it cocks/uncocks the blocks front to back instead of side to side. Make a pass with the saw head, take 6 shingles off per pass. Throw the attachment lever, the block goes back down to level, make a pass....6 more shingles. You can make a LOT of shingles in short order.. Which is what the guy that bought that POS attachment from me was doing.....making shims to sell to mobile home companies that blocked up trailers....the shims went on the top of the block pile to do the final leveling. For him, it was a useful tool. For me, it was a wall ornament.

Question for ya Sandy, I’m working on getting my first Woodland Mills HM130 Max, but their on backorder. My question is, are you afraid that with this type of lap siding not a jig but an attachment to your mill, that it’ll eventually start to throw the alignment out on the mill? When you go back to milling straight lumber. I totally see and understand the mechanics of it but again your constantly adjusting the “Head” of the mill. Just curious of your thoughts on it vs the jig/sled type that you’d lay on the bed. Awesome videos by the way, your one of the first people I started watching when I was looking at all the brands of mills. After a BUNCH of research and looking at costs etc I’m taking the plunge because you show ALL, the good, the bad and the ugly. So thank you for your informative videos. Dave

Hi Sandy ,, Question ,, Seems you are the only miller that can work out your timber dimensions ,,, most others have random sizes of timber left over,,, WHY ,,, are they not bright enough to work it out or just dont care ??????

How can you make lap siding if your log cant? Trollololol

Sandy, this is rediculiously complicated. It's much easier to tilt the cant back and forth, No adjustments needed. Why do people feel spending money and making this complicated is the best. I prefer KISS Have a great day something hard when in fact i't s quite easy.