Scarpa Drago: In Depth Climbing Shoe Review

Рет қаралды 65,857

4 жыл бұрын

Let's pick this thing apart: We're gonna look at general appearance and performance, from sizing, rubber, downturn, narrowness, aggressiveness, hooks and materials to vertical climbing and overhangs, indoors and outdoors.
Here are some chapters:
General Appearance: 0:23
Performance: 9:20
Conclusion: 15:03
Links to the shoe:
amzn.to/31LPS5H (US)
amzn.to/2BymC7B (GER)
Thanks again to Scarpa for letting me test the shoe!
Scarpa Drago: In Depth Climbing Shoe Review by Mani the Monkey
Learned something? Got psyched? If you're one of those who wish to give something back, you can do so by joining The Tribe at / manithemonkey , any support is of course highly appreciated.
Climbing Gear I can recommend:
Favourite Bouldering Shoe: goo.gl/cyNsL4
Favourite Sport Climbing Shoe: goo.gl/3d65PW
Pretty Awesome Beginner Shoe: goo.gl/TrkKiM
Finest Pull Up Bars: goo.gl/2iqu1u
and Parallettes: goo.gl/ixMm4r
and Hangboard: goo.gl/X71Ns1
Favourite Belaying Device: goo.gl/6g5yeC
Favourite Harness: goo.gl/Dm9k8L
Favourite Quickdraws: goo.gl/T5iHQ2
Excellent Approach and Hiking Shoe: goo.gl/eNPbrZ
Not Super Expensive but Versatile, Durable and Overall Great Rope: goo.gl/65BNf6
Top Performance but Expensive Rope: goo.gl/JHsDHt
Crashpad: I use the Mondo from Black Diamond, which is definitely recommendable, but apparently not available from Amazon. If I had to rely on Amazon, I’d get this Beast: goo.gl/PScBhw
Filmmaking Gear I use to create these videos:
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Big Camera: goo.gl/iRwk5p
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Audiorecorder: goo.gl/XpnpHV
Editing Machine (using FCPX): goo.gl/t9EaL3
For those interested in Nutrition:
I wrote a little E-book about my Take on Diet, Health and Weight Loss including a one-week example Meal Plan (currently unavailable because I changed a thing or two and need to update that): goo.gl/cgaux4
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Some of the Links above are Affiliate Links which means that Purchases will grant me a small Commission. Since climbing gear represents a quite small niche, everything is not sold from every single Amazon store, thus not all countries are supported. However the US, UK and Germany are fully covered, you should find all of the recommended gear in these stores. And in case you're not into longer shipping, why not support your local climbing shop :)
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Featured Music:
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Пікірлер: 67

@ManitheMonkey 4 жыл бұрын

Here some chapters for content-skipping heretics: General Appearance: 0:23 Performance: 9:20 Conclusion: 15:03 Hope you enjoyed, let me know what you think, drop a like it helps a lot, and have a nice weekend!

@markusk6779 4 жыл бұрын

Den team gibt es eh nirgends mehr zu kaufen oder? Suche verzweifelt danach in 42

@twotrees510 4 жыл бұрын

Just the video I was waiting for!

@sethjones6778 4 жыл бұрын

I'm not even in the market for a new shoe (love my skwamas), but I watched your entire video because you were so in depth about it and didn't hold back on negatives.

@jobless5189 2 жыл бұрын

Do you personally like the skwamas because I right now have the evolve shahams and I need knew shoes was considering skwamas but wanna know if their good or nit

@dannym8015 4 жыл бұрын

You need to get your hands on some Unparallel for a test, from what I gather one of the pairs is basically the old 5.10 team....

@georgebaldwin5456 3 ай бұрын

Tried the Drago and the Unparallel Flagship and preferred the Flagaship. I personally did not like how soft the Drago is. I hesitated to place my foot on anything tiny, fearing it would deform and slip off; which it did often enough that I took them back for a return.

@stevebarratt888 4 жыл бұрын

Just to counter the points about the soft rubber. I REALLY like the Xs grip2 for certain types of climbing. On my 45 degree board it is far easier to keep the feet on compared with harder rubbers (Xs edge). For long leads and vertical terrain I wear stiffer shoes anyway, but for steep terrain bouldering I’ve found my cobras with Xs grip 2 to be great. I haven’t had any disappointment with longevity of with my sportiva cobras (which have this rubber also), they lasted almost a year climbing indoors 1-3x per week. I don’t climb in hot temperatures ever though, I live in the Uk and the indoor climbing walls are not heated very much (my garage certainly isn’t!). Also to anyone freaking out about your shoes going through on one hold.. I have had this happen before on other shoes, sometimes this just happens when the hold is very sharp. Thanks for the in-depth review Mani - really appreciate it! Can you review the Katana too at some point?

@Lykanthrop 4 жыл бұрын

As far as I know, the five ten rubber is not the same anymore. Ever since adidas bought five ten and moved the production, they use a cheaper new rubber, but still call it the "stealth" rubber. The former workers from five ten (who all got fired after adidas bought the company) founded a new company called "Unparallel" and they actually still use the original stealth rubber formula and produce new climbing shoes very similar to the old five ten models. I can't say anything about five ten shows then and now, simply because they don't fit my feet (unfortunately) and also so far I couldn't find a dealer that sells Unparallel shoes. Anyway, great review! I think I'll try the shoe out, though I always have the problem, that scarpa is too wide in the heel, and five ten too narrow in the toe box. La sportiva seems to fit perfectly, but as you said, they wear out reeeeeaaaally fast. (had some of them resoled with stealth rubber though ;)) Cheers, Felix

@philipppuchner1115 4 жыл бұрын

I have read the same thing about Five Ten, but I think not all of them were fired. Some moved with them to germany, just the production in the USA was closed (or the workers there were out of a job). Also some didn't want to leave the US and decided to stay. But I don't know IF or HOW any of this is true. Unparallel wasn't foundet at that time, the company exists for wayyyy longer. --> no, you're right, they were officially founded in 2017, BUT have ~20 years of experiance with shoemaking etc. Probably that is the time those ex five ten employees were in business :) There are rumors that the formular of the Original Stealth C4 stayed with Unparallel. So, their RH... rubber hard could be the Original C4 rubber! :) Could, should, would. Let's see how many climbing shoes Unparallel ships all over the world and how many people climb them and review/test them.

@geogaddi6215 4 жыл бұрын

get your hand on the new five ten models. i love especially those aleons!! greeting to you sir!

@timignatov7394 4 жыл бұрын

Had 2 pairs of Dragos myself and i pretty much agree with you on all points. Grips everything nicely but wears out within 2 months if you climb a lot especially outside. Just sent mine off to be resoled with harder rubber ( Vibram XS edge instead of vibram xs grip ) so we shall see if it makes a difference.

@philipppuchner1115 4 жыл бұрын

Why not just XS Grip instead of XS Grip 2? XS Edge is just good for one thing: Edging! Less grippy (especially if it's i bit dirty), hard, less sensitivity. I believe XS Grip is a good compromise between XS Edge and XS Grip 2. The Original Stealth C4 i like most until now. But since the "new" Stealth C4 doesn't seem to be the Original C4 any more... sh*t.

@iBcPirate 4 жыл бұрын

Been waiting for this video, thanks Mani! Was wondering why you switched from the Team 5.10s to the Dragos. Would you say it's necessary to have a super tight, sock-like fit with these to get the most out of them? I've demoed them before and they were too soft for me, felt like I needed to treat them like socks similar to Futuras.

@mikafull 4 жыл бұрын

He Mani, I always had the Hiangle, but now the have changed the shape of it since they moved to China. Think this is the same with the Team. With the team itself I can not get in with my normal 5.10 size, because my Rist is to low. With the drago it wasn't a problem.

@MrMaxKey 2 жыл бұрын

Katana is listed as one of the most narrow shoes in La Sportiva lineup

@arnesl929 4 жыл бұрын

New Five Ten has in my experience changed the sizes, except the US size (translation between sizes are changed). I used 43 (my street shoe size) Anasazi, now 44, both are US size 10 however. The pro version also 44 so the same size as the new regular is my impression.

@philipppuchner1115 4 жыл бұрын

Ähm, what? I used to climb the brown (golden tan) Anasazi VCS in UK 9 for the left foot and UK 10 for the right foot (feet are 44.5 left and 45.5 right ;; left UK9.5+ and right in the middle between UK 10.5 and UK 11). The "new" China Anasazi VCS UK 9 for the left foot was too small and hard. Also the UK 9.5 was too small (and hard). The UK 10 would have been the same size with the old UK 9, but it didn't fit as the old one. I had to return all of the new models. Sooooo, after Sportiva killing the Katana in my opinion [the old(!) yellow is good, the newer ones are just the green/blue model in different colours: a little narrower (for me too narrow), even harder (like a brick), different material (some synthetic instead of leather - kills your toes, although there is more padding now)]. 2 classic shoes (Katana VCS and Anasazi VCS) shot dead for me and many other climbers. Luckily, there are other models that fit and are "good" and comfy enough. I also read people complaining, that also the HiAngle changed in size, fit and also the C4 rubber isn't the C4 any more. It is just another rubber, a little harder, which isn't that sticky any more, but also with C4 printed on it. And everything cheaper produced in China now, but the prices raised up. Nice job Adidas, those idiots are killing the Five Ten brand! Luckily, many old Five Ten guys are working for Unparallel now and released climbing shoes with the same fit as the good old five ten ones (or even slightly improved versions), just with other optics and colors and names. But their rubber (RH... rubber hard, is supposed to be like the Original Stealth C4 + RS... rubber soft, is supposed to be like the Original Stealth HF) is supposed to be very sticky! :) Also a third and fourth rubber they have there (there is a pdf with the specs online), but the two are even softer and just for toe hook rubber. One is approx thr MI6 and the second even softer - if I'm not mistaken. Also Tomoa Narasaki, former Five Ten HiAngle climber, now climbed the last worldcup season in Unparallel Regulus, the Version of the HiAngle from Unparallel, with just an "optimized" heel. Let's see how the new Five Ten models are performing. The Aleon is already out, and the new white HiAngle is also about to be released. AND let's see when Unparallel climbing shoes get widely available in Europe :)

@tobi_j1510 4 жыл бұрын

Was denkst du über die scarpa Instinkt vsr

@ememsems183 4 жыл бұрын

Very useful as always. Thanks so much Mani ! I have small narrow feet too and currently looking for a pair for sport climbing. As I start to progress with grades, having worn my la sportiva solution as per usual on a longer and higher grade vertical route the other day . I almost burst into tear mid route cause my feet got so sore to the point of sharp shooting pain lol although it was pretty hot that day. What are some of your candidates for sports route Mani ? Thanks 😊

@theopinson3851 4 жыл бұрын

Emily Hua check out his review of the Five Ten Teams. They are my favorite shoe for steep climbing right now and are very narrow. The Dragon is also very good if you prefer laces and will give you a bit more support for edging.

@ememsems183 4 жыл бұрын

@@theopinson3851 thank you so much ! 👊

@babsds0 4 жыл бұрын

neat

@guapybalboa1927 Жыл бұрын

Which would you pick drago or furia air?

@thomasball1139 4 жыл бұрын

But in cold conditions the drago will be super sticky still where harder rubber is too hard

@ManitheMonkey 4 жыл бұрын

cold conditions are almost necessary for the Drago.

@thomasball1139 4 жыл бұрын

Mani the Monkey In the UK I use the tougher harder scarpa instinct for indoors and mileage, but all the soft scarpa shoes are amazing in the freezing conditions needed for gritstone climbing in UK, they are so sticky it’s unreal, whereas lots of other pairs are so hard they turn into crocs

@guillaumesalamin859 4 жыл бұрын

Great review! What shoes would you guys recommend for vertical terrain and slabs?

@philipppuchner1115 4 жыл бұрын

It all depends on the footholds i gues. Vertical with tiny, but good footholds: Stiff shoe, like a Miura VS. Slabs: pure friction smearing: very soft shoe. Very very tiny footholds (on the slab): Also a stiffer shoe. "Choose the shoe according to the foothold you have the most problems with on the whole route or Boulder" - Nathan Hoette from Scarpa.

@dominicsch530 4 жыл бұрын

If you want a Drago-style shoe with a bit more allaround-flair, try Chimeras. The TPS gives a bit more support for edges, but still smears good. For micro crystals use something with more support.

@guillaumesalamin859 4 жыл бұрын

@@dominicsch530 thanks! Finally I went for the La Sportiva Solution and I also got the Katana

@Spearit578 3 жыл бұрын

Resole it with xs edge rubber if you want the rubber to last longer.

@polarnia 4 жыл бұрын

I have the Furia which I think is very similar to the drago but has a narrower design. Maybe the heel would fit your foot bettter. The shoes have been amazing for me in the cold Squamish conditions of late :)

@philipppuchner1115 4 жыл бұрын

Furia or Furia S? Or Furia Air? Because the Original Furia is higher volume and the heel is way too big for me. So, it is much bigger than any heel of the newer soft climbing shoes from Scarpa! The Furia S fits me superbly, but this climbing shoe is way too soft for me. I have Scarpa Chimeras, which i believe is the softest shoe i can tolerate, and it is also a specialist shoe, which I will use rarely.

@user-ty7sh4jq3u 2 жыл бұрын

Also outdoors?

@Carlos-cm5si 4 жыл бұрын

So what rubbers do u reccommend? Sorry if u said it in the video, my english is not pretty good haha. And what brands usually have more durable shoes?

@ManitheMonkey 4 жыл бұрын

I like the stealth rubber. All I can say is that so far (before they moved their production elsewhere) 5.10 team has a very good durability for it's thinness, which use this rubber. All Sportivas I had and also this Scarpa wore out quicker.

@Carlos-cm5si 4 жыл бұрын

@@ManitheMonkey Thank u very much man!

@SnowmansApartment 4 жыл бұрын

if you resole a shoe, can you decide what kind of rubber will be used?

@philipppuchner1115 4 жыл бұрын

of course! The resoler can put any rubber on the shoe, he or she has available.

@felipe2fp 2 жыл бұрын

man I must be doing someting wrong regarding climbing shoes size. My street shoes is 41.5 and my la sportiva katana and genius are respectively 40 and 40.5, I don't felt like I could downsize more, or even that I need. Moreover I made that trick on epictv to to draw your foot on a paper and fits with the sizes that I choose...I'm the only that don't size that much?

@gezzapk Жыл бұрын

For dragos the guy who makes them suggest 1 full size down from street

@Sepp2009 3 жыл бұрын

can you recommend a shoe for slabs or standing on volumes? I'm having problems with my Lasportiva Skwamas.

@Eliv537 3 жыл бұрын

Try a softer shoe! I also noticed that with la sportivias. On the toe of la sportivas they have what I call a beak. The very tip of your toe get down turned at the end. It makes them very good on over hang but I have to switch to dragos because I couldn’t smere.

@Sepp2009 3 жыл бұрын

@@Eliv537 are the dragos actually better? They still look very downturned to me

@Eliv537 3 жыл бұрын

@@Sepp2009 it’s all subjective but I have had 6 pairs of dragos and personally like them much more. They are more down turned but there much softer like a rubber sock.

@Eliv537 3 жыл бұрын

@@Sepp2009if you haven’t seen it I would take a look at the squamas at the beak. The toes not flat. Which actually makes it almost as down turned

@thesystem4025 3 жыл бұрын

@@Eliv537 I was wondering why I found it so hard to smear

@miloplayz7474 4 ай бұрын

Very late to this but your feet seem like they would fit the drago LV better😊

@dmm4133 4 жыл бұрын

I have just the same experience with scarpa chimera. Super soft, not durable, my heel doesn't fit good and it's pain to climb slabs with it. I personally think that those scarpa shoes are only good for indoor climbing, outdoors they may perform good on a very specific style - overhanging with big footholds, something like action direct.

@philipppuchner1115 4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, they are so so soft, and very specialised climbing shoes! I have to break in my new Chimeras, but I do know already they are just weapons for the steepest of steep stuff. So, fr me indoor steep. Because outdoors I'm not able to climb something that steep.

@rotten_kiwi 4 жыл бұрын

Planning on getting these but curious about sizing. Does anyone know if downsizing 2 full sizes would be too much? I usually downsize pretty aggressively. Streetsize: 9US/42EU Drago size I want: either 40EU of 40.5

@avrahm9029 2 жыл бұрын

go for it

@Budokid 4 жыл бұрын

i bought these in the same size as my street shoe and my toes were fully curled and put a lot of pressure on all my toe knuckles (couldnt stand flat without pain)f. will these stretch at all or should i size up?

@brettfaver5871 4 жыл бұрын

I had the same issue with these shoes. They don't seem to stretch, but when I hand washed them in hot soapy water (fyi the yellow dye bleeds/stains and washing them like this is probably not good for them), the rubber on top became more flexible which seem to reduce knuckle pain. I still have to take the shoes off once I'm off the wall. I would size up if these are your only pair.

@philipppuchner1115 4 жыл бұрын

Scarpa Drago ans street size? Too big! Too big for such a soft shoe! They are very narrow and have an egyptian fit, so with the big toe beeing the longest, and a way shorter second toe, then rapidly shorter again etc. And yes, since they are so much covered in toe rubber, they are a pain at first. For mee they are a bit too narrow, so i decided to go for Chimeras. They are the same shoe, just a little bit wieder at the front, just a little bit more supportive (because of little bit bigger midsole compared to Dragos) and instead of Velcro, speed laces (really fast!). They are still a VERY soft shoe, so this "more support" is just a very tiny bit. And the "wider at the front" is also just a little bit. Like every new Scarpa climbing shoe (except Boostic) I go down 1,5 EU sizes from my actual measured foot size (since people also wear steir street shoes quite different i don't use the term street size any more). With La Sportiva Climbing shoes I go down -2.5 Eu sizes (just the good old yellow Katana VCS + Skwama (W) I go down 3 sizes - still comfy). This -1,5 EU in Scarpa climbing shoes gives me the same "snuggnes" like -2,5 EU in La Sportiva climbing shoes. That's the äquivalent. So, if Dragos are too tight at street size for you, there is something wrong (you beeing wearing climbing shoes too big or the shape of the shoe simply doesn't matches the shape of your feet - and the fit is the single most important element with climbing shoes!).

@Budokid 4 жыл бұрын

@@philipppuchner1115 they must not fit me right or my street shoes r lying cause they made the top knuckle of every toe almost purple.

@philipppuchner1115 4 жыл бұрын

@@Budokid what other climbing shoes do you climb in? In which size and for what purpose?

@dominicsch530 4 жыл бұрын

1) Did you ever measure your street shoe size? My measured one is one size smaller than what I wear because I really like street shoes casual. There may be a big difference between your "true" street shoe size and what you think it is. 2) Smedging and toehooking for the win - Dragos aren't designed for fully curled toes. Compare for example with Mago - the whole toebox has another shape which supports your toes to curl into it. Of course all of this is very dependend on your foot shape.

@RobouVideos 2 жыл бұрын

1:14 : "the Katana is pretty wide" What?? This is odd. I thought they were known for being very narrow. And I tried them once it was narrow indeed

@thesii213 2 жыл бұрын

Katana Lace is kind of wide. Velcro is not. I think the lace opens the upper a bit more and allows a bit of stretch, though they might have slightly different lasts as well?